This was always going to be a bit of an ordeal. Sunny weather, but bitterly cold. The Hayloft area seemed a good choice as it catches the sun early and being granite retains a bit of warmth.
We were accompanied by the usual Choughs whizzing around on the upper ledges. They are definitely getting more numerous. It’s a common sight down on West Penwith.
The first pitch of Hayloft is fun in its own right. Straight forward but good for a practice session. Moving straight on to Slanting Crack was not one of my better ideas. My memory played games with me. I seemed to remember positive but small holds leading up to the much more amenable slanting crack. However the opening moves are a bit desperate, especially with cold fingers.
So Ian, Barry and me called it a day, giving in to the cold and heading off. It’s never though a wasted day sat in the sun in such a beautiful location. Maybe we will return shortly for a tour of the north end of Sennen.
Having missed out last year through a combination of bad time management and poor weather, it was good to get our annual ‘New Years on the Ridge’ going again.
With a tentative theme of ‘Pattern Disruptive Material’ (Camo to you and me) we set of for what was to be a great day on Commando Ridge. We lucked the weather with sunshine for most of a chilly but bearable day.
Two new recruits in Chris D and Ian T joined us with a few of the regulars missing because of various ageing complaints. We did have Chris S and his new pet Cougar. Not that we could see Mike with his stunning cat like camouflage. We also managed the crossing to the normal start, with no ‘Dave’ factor to take into account.
Being a chilly day it was noticeable that hanging around on the belays was tough work. In hindsight, I probably should have let Chris and Mike lead off as they would have been faster, but having to share a rack meant we needed to stay together anyway, so I’m not sure it would have made too much difference.
It was good to actually be out on the rock again. The Ridge is never really hard, but you do need to stay focused. Chris and Ian were loving it and it helped that the light was amazing, lighting up the main face and bringing out all the colours.
Hopefully next year will see an even larger team event. We may have to have start times haha.
St Loy Cliff Cress Cendo – VS 5a – Second (Dgd) Chlorofyl Cluster – E1 5b – TR (Dgd) The Baldest – E4 5c – TR (Dgd) Tingaloy – HS 4b – Lead Monochrome Men – E1 5b – Second
So, great to be out with Joe again. We dont get to climb that often so this was a make the most of the day.
And it was very much a day of two halves. The morning, one of disappointment and half hearted attemps. The afternoon, one of success and redemption.
I’ve climbed both Crescendo and CC before. This time I failed on both. Probably my head more than anything, but still disappointing. Weird as well because I’ve been climbing a lot indoors and feeling strong. This was born out with my attempt on the Baldest which went well comparatively. Tiny crystal gripping and insecure foot placements typify this great route. I fell once on the crux, but having done it, I now think I might be able to clean it.
Anyway, I finished the day far more strongly. Again on two previously climbed routes, but both good ones. Monochrome Men is still the best. My first E1 no less.
Boswednack Cliff No Justice – V Diff – Second Groovy Justice – Severe 4a – Second
Having your own private beach would be amazing. Having two private beaches would be next level. If I win the Euromillions I might just have this. Or at least I’ll know where I can get it.
Boswednack is a little bit more remote than many venues we visit. Takes about 35-40 mins to walk in. Requires an abseil to remove the ball-ache of a slippery downclimb and is pretty intimidating as a crag. It also doesnt get the sun until much later in the day, so if shady climbing is your thing, fill your boots.
I really like it here. The climbs feel different from those of many crags. Greenstone cliffs do that. The rock as a whole is ok, but you have to be prepared for loose stuff and alter your climbing to suit this.
Chris eyeing up the start of Groovy Justice
Chris’s opener on Groovy Justice was quite a challenge. The bomber gear placement is just out of reach, so you need to commit before you can place it. A good one for Chris to get his head back in the right place for leading. The climb is also a little off kilter, but it is a fun adventure up the right side of the crag.
Dave about to start the final headwall of No Justice
Dave went for the obvious ramp of No Justice. Again a tough opening which needs commitment. Seems to be a theme here. Once on the main arete/ramp the climbing is steady, although it has a sting in its tail which includes large chunks of loose rock. Again a good lead by Dave and another step up. The team is excelling!
The Main Face area
I had to make an alteration to my log book. I had originally added Rough Justice HVS 5b from my only previous visit. Turns out I had actually climbed Last Minute Reprieve E1 5c. So a bonus to the grade. It does though mean I have to go back an do Rough Justice properly. Does look good though.
The walk out included a swim in the now flooded beach, but was still great and finally capped off with a pint at the Gurnards Head. All in all a very good day.
Adder Skin (Variation Finish) – VS 5a – Lead Zig Zag – Mod – Second
A recent online chat reminded me of a different finish to Adder Skin. I’d done the original which is excellent in it’s own right, but the vertical crack arising from the original face is a tempting line. Also the wind and conditions meant this area was at least partly sheltered on a NW.
Adder Skin – Variation Finish
It was also great to have Dave back with us. Although maybe a bit unfair to launch him at a really tricky VS for a starter. The climb is all about the move into the crack. I found it hard to get a good high piece of gear in (which I really wanted as a fall would mean a bounce off the face below) because to see into the crack require some delicate manoeuvring. Once you’ve got the gear though you can launch at it.
Dave moving into the crack of Adder Skin Variation VS 5a
Its not as burly as you might imagine from the ground. More a case of judicious use of the foot placements and committing out onto the left hand face. A really good climb imo. Chris and I commented that we’ve been lucky recently to bag a succession of great routes. Chris climbed it very smoothly, obviously finding the holds to unlock it first time.
Chris on his way up Zig Zag
And Dave got to lead Zig Zag. Not hard climbing, but loads of exposure and a brilliant route. One of my favourite on the Headland, just because of how it slants up a really imposing slab. So good.
Fantasia E2 5b – Through the twin horizontal breaks into the niche and then up the headwall.
I also checked out Fantasia, the E2 at the bottom of the ramp. Will be doing that next time I’m here for sure.
Chair Ladder The Mitre – VS 4c – Lead Asterix in Cornwall – VS 5a – Lead
The Mitre has been on my wish-list forever. It’s the description in the guidebook that always put the frighteners on me in the past. “A difficult move around the arete leads to instant exposure”. And yes it does, on a grand scale.
About to set off on the Mitre
The initial cracks are really enjoyable, leading to the obvious chicken head. Remember to keep going here. The low traverse looks nails and unprotected. Whereas the higher one, although scary has good holds and foot placements. I actually found the move into the crack on the face the more technical and difficult. All in all though a brilliant climb. Shame the bottom section fell down but its still well worth doing.
Alternative ending to Asterix in Cornwall
Asterix in Cornwall is the sister to Nutcracker. Not as hard, although still thuggy, with a tough mantle-shelf onto the large ledge. I challenge people to do this with elegance. Me and Chris both failed in that department. I would also add that if you continue, then its difficult to protect your second on this move. I chose to belay on the large ledge.
Dave’s number 6 walnut??
Chair Ladder as always was magnificent. Such a magnificent setting. Chris and I used to climb here regularly when we more of a double act. I think the consensus is that we will get back into doing more of this. Maybe go for some of the harder classics next time.
The Rumps – Pentire Head Regular – Severe 4b – Lead Pass the Duchy – HS 4b – Lead
So The Rumps is fast becoming a favourite of mine for a quick, no frills outing. Easy to get to from the National Trust car park and short, but challenging climbs.
Sunflowers on Pentire Head
Both the Severe’s I’ve done here have been on the tough side. Leaning out a lot and making you work. The rock, while grippy, feels a little unreliable, but so far it has held up fine, so maybe this is unjustified.
The Lower Tier
Its nice to find a relatively local crag which isnt all E+’s. There are a couple of HVS’s so the challenge is still there for the future.
Ian on Pass the Duchy (Upper Tier)
Ian and Dave were all smiles as well. The view helps too, with breathtaking vista’s back towards Doyden and across ‘The Mools’, the small island off the coast. I’m starting to get the ‘proper’ buzz again. All the wall work is paying dividends, and I rekon soon it’ll be time to take on a few E’s (they’re good dont you know 🙂 )
I love Porthguarnon. Not sure what it is about the place, but the climbing always feels great, the rock positive and invariably its a cracking day. And I’ve yet to tackle some of the 2 and 3 star climbs.
Throttle had yet to climb on granite, so this seemed as good a place as any for an introduction. The boulder hop in is so much fun. You can go a number of different lines, either at sea level or via a ledge system about 20ft further up. Both have tricky little sections, but ultimately they’re not too hard as long as you keep your cool. Part of the fun of Porthguarnon for me is the exploration.
Iron Bells is your benchmark corner climb. Nice laybacking, with good pro and no moves that are too difficult. It even throws in a small overhang to keep you interested. Such lovely climbing. We put in a mid way belay so that I could keep an eye on Throttle, but unfortunately this proved to be an uncomfortable half hour for him, as I finished off the climb and he had to hang in the belay. So an early intro into multi-pitch climbing really haha.
To cap it all we lost one of our belay devices to Huey, so we left satisfied with the one route for the slightly arduous walk back to Penberth (but it is incredibly beautiful as well.
Should’ve gone to specsavers – VS 4b – Alt Lead Ghan Fishing – V Diff – Second The Womb Tomb – V Diff – Second Pilot’s Song – VS 4c – Lead
Herding frog’s! Our Via Ferrata team is proving a bit tricky to co-ordinate atm. This was meant to be a test run for the camping with a bit of climbing thrown in. In the end it was really a climbing trip which suits me and turned out to be great fun.
Friday was a return to Predannack. I was determined to find out where the bloody Intermediate area was. Turns out it was staring me in the face all along. The guidebook description is fairy poor really. It references a Zawn, but in truth it’s just the face at the bottom of the ramp in beginners area. Add to that, the fact the route descriptions are pretty sketchy as well, accounts for why there have been so few recorded ascents here. If I’m honest though, sometimes having to work hard to find a climb is all part of the fun of exploring a crag. I sometimes you come across a gem by accident as a result.
Should’ve gone to Specsavers is an ok route, but really the entire climb boils down to breaking through the overhang. This is exciting and exposed, but is over very quickly once you commit. It took me a while to pluck up courage to go, but once you do its fine. Dave and Chris came through with out any dawdling. The route is a bit ‘unsatisfying’, but the other two on this face look quite tasty as well, so I’ll give these a go next time.
A fairly long hike over to Tasmania Zawn let us on Gawn Fishing, a climb I’ve done before but one which is always enjoyable. Described as an adventurous V Diff like a mountain route it runs diagonally across the wall, finishing up a shute of sorts. I know Dave loved it, especially as he got a chance to lead. It was a good finish to the day, before retiring to Henry’s Campsite.
And that is a strange, eclectic place. A warren of hedges, plants and drives which makes up what amounts to a secret garden. It is a bit ‘hippy’ but really enjoable. I would recommend it to anyone camping down that way.
Day 2 was Pen Olver, with Mike joining me and Chris. It was a trip down memory lane in a way. Been a while since I was here, and I’ve done a fair few of the routes. But I got a chance to bag a new one. One that I’m surprised I’d not done, because it is the obvious line up the pinnacle. Pilots song is reasonably straight forward for a VS with the crux being well protected and obvious. Its getting off that can be fluttery. Especially if you are the last to downclimb with no rope. Just take it steady and watch your feet.
Of course we had to do Womb Tomb for Mike’s benefit. What a bizarre but fun climb. Dieting helps in getting to the start. From there its head up into the gloom and be prepared to twist a bit. Climbing gives us so many moments of fun and entertainment. When you come across a route like this, it will send you away with the biggest smile on your face. One of those routes you never forget. Unless you’re Chris of course.
Stormy Weather – HVS 5a – Lead Sunday Bloody Sunday – E2 5c – Second Wreckers Slab – VS 4b – Alt Lead
Cornakey Cliff is not an easy ramble in. In fact its a pretty hard slog from Morewenstow Tea Rooms. But it is worth the effort. With going away so close upon me, I was thinking that a relatively relaxed day was in order. Of course stupidly I didnt factor in Joe. And the location should have screamed ‘adventure’ at me.
So it was my first proper HVS lead of the season, followed by an E2 and then a crumbling, run out VS to finish. Nice and relaxed.
Stormy Weather is just brilliant. I t steepens as it gets hight. Pro starts off fiddly and gets better. The perfect way around. It took a few moves before I got my head properly in the game, but then the added fitness from my hours at the wall kicked in and I thoroughly enjoyed myself. Even placing pro mid crux. Just shows how strength can be a bonus.
Joe’s E2 was a fitting partner. Much more airy lower down with a poorly protected traverse. As it gets higher you need to work hard on your foot placements. Everything is there, but it needs a bit of thought. Joe made an excellent job on the lead. Looks like he’s going to carry on right from where he left off. I can foresee some brilliant routes ahead.
We had left our bags near the top of the descent. A good idea, but remember to take water. Thanks to Joe and his fitness for sorting this one out.. This meant we could climb out on Wreckers Slab which tops out right at the top of the cliff. No need to drop back down, unless you stupidly throw a set of nuts off the second pitch! The climbing on Wreckers is steady but with spaced gear. 4b is about right, but you need a steady head on some sections as you move a long way above your gear. I loved it. Adventure at its best and would recommend this to anyone who is competant at VS. Pitch 1 is the run out one, although the final section gives it a run for its money. P2 is just great climbing with regular good gear.
What a day. A good lead into summer and a chance to test myself on some challenging climbs. Will be back up to visit Joe soon methinks.
