An iconic day

April 18, 2010 dillwat Leave a comment

17th April 2010
Chair Ladder

Diocese – VS 5a – Alt Lead
Terriers Tooth – HS 4b – Second

After the last couple of outings, where failure was becoming a little too familiar, I needed a good clean climb to lift morale. Chair Ladder delivered.

Although a little windy, the face was protected and warm ( a change from last week) and I have had my eye on Diocese for some time. I knew it was the iconic climb of Chair Ladder and had a reputation for being exposed and fairly hard for VS.

As it happened, it was just brilliant. I led the first pitch which is tricky up to the overhanging crack. From here you make a fairly bold move up, bridging from the crack onto the face. It took me a while to get my nerve up, but once committed the everything went smoothly. A truly memorable pitch which laid all of the recent disappointments to rest..

Joe and Chris duly followed raving about how good it was and then Chris was off on the famous traverse with Joe and I watching keenly from the cave. It is exposed, with small foot placements and a balancy final move. But it is a great pitch.

Then it was Joe’s turn up the exposed main face (near flannel avenue) . The climbing is not hard, but the exposure is amazing and it lets you just concentrate on climbing, not fighting to place gear. The last pitch was mine again, again exposed with holds pointing the wrong way to make it comfortable. But a worthy finish to one of the best VS’s in Cornwall.

Of course climbing in three’s chews up time, so our next climb, South Face Direct had to be left for another time much to Joe’s disgust (he has his eye on the second pitch). Still Terriers Tooth is a worthy replacement which Joe and Chris dispatched. Joe led the bold direct start which always adds an edge and the final pitch with the pull onto the slab.

As usual the down climb created a good level of fear. My comment of ‘I hope a hold doesnt snap’ seemed to go down well as we free climbed down off the needle above pinnacle gulley. Oops.

Rest of the photos here

Climbing

The three faces of Wednesday

April 18, 2010 dillwat Leave a comment

7th April 2010
Sennen

Dexter – VS 4c – Lead (Variation finish up Double Overhang)
Hayloft – VS 4c – Second

Joe, Alex and I set off for Bosi to climb LBJ but for a change the normally reliable BBC weather got it wrong. The wind should have been from the North so Bosi would have been sheltered, but instead there was a lot of West in it which mucked it right up. Too cold to spend time on belay ledges we figured shorter pitches at Sennen and a bit more shelter would be the order of the day.

And so began a catalogue of misjudgement. Of course Sennen would be no more sheltered than Bosi, but this seemed to bypass us all, right up to the point I was hauling my freezing cold butt unto the spike of Dexter and wishing I was anywhere other than on this cold piece of granite. Joe couldnt feel his hands and I abandoned the airy traverse on the grounds that I would die from hypothermia, choosing the grunt up the top bit of Double Overhang.

In a bid to escape the wind we mooched down Irish Lady Cove. A good idea, but not when there is 8 – 10ft of swell running. We stood looking at Commando Crack, but I was spending more time looking at the waves smashing inbto the cove and remembering Pendeen, when a rogue set tried to eat me. Not happy, I refused to climb the crack, much to Joe’s derision, so I pursuaded him to have a go at Grot.

Never has a name been more deserved. As lumps of rock broke off in Joes hands and Alex launched lumps of it into the cove which exploded like grenades and threw another strop and demeanded we leave ILC immediately. By this time I was completely frazzled and the decision to climb Hayloft was the one good one of the day.

Joe led which was fine by me, and he had fun on the unprotected second pitch, always a pitch to focus the mind. By time we finished the day didnt seem so bad, but not one that will go down as a classic.

Climbing

Blood and Thrutch

March 28, 2010 dillwat 1 Comment

28th March 2010
Cribba Head

Harder – VS 4c – Second (repeat)
Bottleneck – VS 5a – Lead Dog

We scouted out Pednvounder Upper West Buttress, but with all the rain recently the VS ‘Burning Bridge’ which we wanted to do was wet, particularly on the slabby crux section. That and the fact that the base was protected by vicious brambles and thorns pursuaded us to move across to Cribba Head. The Beach was not an option with a large swell smashing into the bay and having had past experience of Joe trying to drown me on the belay we left.

The two VS’s we climbed are two of the harder (as the name suggests) VS’s in Cornwall. Harder is an leaning pillar of rock tucked in the V of two walls. This means it is well protected with two good cracks either side, but it also makes it a powerful route. If you get your bridging right its easier, but me and Joe took a tougher approach and stormed it head on with arm and hand jams.

This is probably why Joe felt the need to test my new double ropes on their first outing, lobbing off a foot or so from the ledge. To be fair it was cold and the cracks were damp, making it hard to remain in place a put gear in. Still, Joe’s CAM held and he proceeded to clean it on the next attempt. Mind you it brought on a sweat which is testiment to how much effort is required on this climb. I think 4c may be a little on the low side. I led this route a while back so I was prepared for the effort. It still caught me a little off guard, but its a great route and worth a couple of stars in the guide IMO.

Now Bottleneck is a different kettle of fish. It could just as easily be called Hand Mangler. I stared long and hard at this one, thinking the crux was the chimney. Well it is, but what I didnt realise was that between me and that, was a v difficult move up onto the face. It took me ages to get going, which sapped a lot of my strength and by time I was placing gear in the chimney I was finished. Queue my turn to fall onto my gear. Arms busted and legs shot I gave it one more go but again by time I reached the chimney and tried to move up i was shattered.

Joe took over and after his introduction to the early move, he managed to move up into the chimney. This proved hard as well, but Joe made a brilliant effort to pull through and finish the climb. Much better than his photography which demonstarted a sort of foot fetish.

I hate chimneys and knowing I needed to remove the gear I decided to make one last effort. I made it into the chiney this time, which is just wide enough for a person. Not being the suplest of people I squirmed and inched my way up finally hauling myself onto the ledge with the last of my energy. In hindsight, I think I should have done this one first, although it was hard whichever way you look at it. I noticed on UK Climbing, ascensionists have given this HVS 5b which I think is more realistic. There are deffinitely a couple of 5a or harder moves there. The face is reasonably protected and the chimney has some low down and higher up so HVS would be about right as well.

I’m glad I climbed it, but my hands werent. It is a real shredder, because most of the holds are jams. There were a few winces when I showered later.

Still a brilliant days climbing and we’ve been saying we want to do HVS’s. So here it was. It adds a lot of confidence to know you can lead and climb something like this even if on this occasion I ran out of steam.

Climbing

Rock and Roll Boulders

March 12, 2010 dillwat Leave a comment

11th March 2010
Porthgwarra Buttress and Hella Point

Dowser’s RoutE/Porthgwarra Face – V Diff – Lead
Games Surfers Play (variation finish – very variation) – S 4a – Lead

The last time I was at Porthgwarra I did Porthgwarra Chimney, an excellent route so I thought it was time to try a few others.

With the sun shining we dropped down into the gulley with a view to doing Dowser’s Route. As usual, locating the precise start of the climb was tricky. With this being Pete’s first outing since Bosi I wanted to keep the climbs in the V Diff/Severe range. This proved more tricky than expected. We started slightly to the left of the proper start in a tricky vertical crack, but moved back onto the route proper after the first ledge.

However we took a slight detour around the top arete, going right onto the outside face. Although airy and a little crunchy, this had big juggy holds after turning the arete. Still it was a good finish if lacking in protection.

Then came a mission to explore Hella point and find Helluva slab. The guidebook indicates you can descend without an abseil, but we didnt find it. After an exciting scramble up to the top we gave up when the wind increased and it got decidedly colder. The moving boulders add a different dimension to the whole adventure. The first 80 ton block which moved was freaky. The second boulder, about 4 times as big, which rocked sent nerves jangling and we retreated back to find easier ground on Panda Buttress.

This too proved tricky. I wanted to try the Chimney routes, but the bottom of the gulley ends on a ledge with no obvious route to the slabs below unless you traverse. The traverse was pitch 1 of Games Surfers Play. This proved excellent. Good holds, with small ledges for your feet enabled us to get onto the main slabs. Looking at the continuation of GSP I decided to move up to the platform via the slabs which were bathed in sunshine. This resulted in a lead up the top pitch of Panda Wall the HVS. The climbing is smeary on small finger holds, but not hard, although it is committing because there is only one gear placement for a small Cam.

Once on the ledge and with the sun dipping we went up the easier chimney to finish. Good job really because as the sun went out, the temperature dropped like a stone.

A really adventurous day in the end. Slightly more difficult climbing than I had intended but Pete dealt with everything really well. Has to go down as a bonus day and I will return to have a crack at Helluva Slab. The rest of the photos are here.

Climbing

The good, the bad and the inspirational

February 28, 2010 dillwat Leave a comment

27th February 2010
Bosigran

Doorway (Pitch 1) – Severe 4a – Second
Doorpost (Pitch 2ish) – HS 4b – Lead
Anvil Chorus – VS 4c – Second

Heavy rain the night before and some intermitant showers made this an unlikely classic day, but you never know how things will turn out. A quick decision at Tesco’s in Penzance meant we were en route to Bosi. The sun kept peeking out between dark rain clouds but the forecast was good. This was the first time Joe and I had climbed with Nick so I was hoping for a good day and so it turned out.

Having said that we arrived at the base of the crag to see everything soaked by a short shower. Surrounded by rainbows we decided on a Doorway/Doorpost hybrid to warm up, which turned out to be great fun. The doorway pitch proved testing in the damp conditions, but it is amazing how fast the cliffs dry. After Nicks lead (I wimped out in the wet) I set out on the last two thirds of Doorposts second pitch. Brilliant exposure on great holds – love it – leads you out onto one of Bosi’s great pitches. I seconded this one last time here so it was good to have a go on the lead.

Nick had mentioned he wanted to have a go at Anvil Chorus so after lunch it was back onto another classic climb.

With the light becoming ever more spectacular as dark clouds formed up around us, Joe set out on the first pitch (linking the two bottom pitches into one. On the second part of this is a dark niche passed on the right by a bold move up onto the arete. Joe made a brilliant job of this, clearly enjoying himself up there.

The third pitch of AC is the classic pitch, although I think the climb as a whole has great variety. This pitch, follows a vertical double crack and then breaks right in a traverse to a final mantelshelf. The fact I found it difficult as a seconder makes me understand that it must be a difficult lead. Removing the gear needs good strength and stamina, so placing it must be hard as well. Having said that, it must be one of the all time great pitches of Bosi, exposed and technical. There are foot placements that allow you to use the faces as well, but ultimately laybacking is the approach.

When Nick set off, it was almost a ‘Little Big Horn’ situation with the weather. We were surrounded by black clouds with squalls off the coast and a haze of rain over towards Pendeen lighthouse. If I’m honest I thought we would make it, but Nicks call was perfect (for me and him). Unfortunately Joe ended up climbing the pitch in a rain shower which soaked everything. Powerful arms and determination saw him to the top finishing one of the best climbs I’ve ever done.

You feel like you’ve achieved something when you sneek in ahead of the weather like this. Rain either side of out session, but in between great climbing and great fun.

The rest of the phots can be seen here.

We are so lucky to live down here.

Climbing

More Clodgy

February 11, 2010 dillwat 1 Comment

6th February 2010
Clodgy Point

Undercut Wall Area
Problem 63A 4b – Sent
Problem 64 4c – Sent
Problem 61 4a – dnf

The Central Platform
Problem 90 V4 6a – not very far
Problem 89 4c – Sent
Problem 86 V0 5a – Sent

Lots of different problems on this day, although we spent a disproportionate time on the 6a.

Its probably because I’m not used to bouldering but I find the moves in general powerful for the grade. They take a bit of getting used to. Up to 5a seems OK but once I move beyond this, they seem to jump in difficulty. That said, Joe and I worked on the 6a traverse problem for ages and managed to link parts of it. Strength undid us in the end. Give it a few more weeks of training and I should get a lot closer.

The undercut wall is fun, although Problem 61 seemed incredibly hard for 4a. shrugged me off. My favourite route was Problem 89 which is an arete. A tricky starting move leads to an easy finish. Great fun.

I rekon I could get into this bouldering…..

Climbing

What a difference a week makes

January 30, 2010 dillwat Leave a comment

30th January 2010

Clodgy Point
Undercut Wall Area

Problem 60 4a
Problem 63b 4b

Last week we were basking in temperatures in the teens with bright sunshine. Today it was 5 degrees, windy and snowing at times. Clodgy is about 10-15 mins pleasant walk from the beach. If it had been warmer it would have been a bit more friendly, but it was brooding with dark snow squalls passing by off the coast.

Joe was recovering from a bad back so this was never intended to be a full on session – more of a scouting mission. On arrival we dropped down to the Undercut Wall Area which was a bit more sheltered. I had a go on a couple of nice short routes, although the slab 0n 63b feels high up. It snowed during both which was strange, especially in Cornwall.

There is so much climbing around this area its unbeleivable. Route after route. I played on a 6a traverse but ultimately I was not strong enough. With a bit more effort I think I could complete it so I’ll be on this one again. Joe and i have earmarked this as an after work venue for the Spring. A good place to beef up the muscles, but good fun too.

Climbing

Dont use your knees!!

January 25, 2010 dillwat 1 Comment

23rd January 2010
Aire Point

Various E numbers on the overhangs

Top Roping

After my last outing in the freezing cold up at Sheeps Tor I was wary about just jumping on a climb until I’d tested my fitness and what better way than a session of top roping when you can just go for it.

Aire Point is amazing. Immaculate fresh granite, with loads of little problems and some big ones too. Given Joe’s penache for overhangs we couldnt resist the ledge at one third height with a series of breaks all of which looked feasible.

Aire-Point_Jan10---Joe

However once on them we were taught a quick lesson that what looks possible is sometimes a bit harder. We practiced on Dick Dastardley E2 5b, Spitfire E3 5C and Wiki Wiki Wheels E3 6a.

At the end of the day we managed two of the three overhangs, Spitfire getting the better of us and none of us made the face climbs which proved very difficult. However these were not beyond us and given a few months of climbing and getting fit, I rekon we could make them all.

Aire-Point_Jan10---Chris

Its good sometimes to concentrate on climbing rather than the other aspects of leading. It becomes more of a physical challenge rather than a mental one. The overhangs provided the grunt work on the day, forcing you to go on power from the offset. It is a case of postioning your feet right to assist getting your hands on the right holds. Once you got it, it became easier. It didnt help that by time we made the face we were knackered, but Chris made a good job of getting high up before reach defeated him.

Despite constantly telling Chris not to use his knees he showed blatant disregard for this advice throwing himself off a rock on the descent and using his knee as a break pad. I think he did this deliberately so that Joe and I would carry his gear out. And the crutches were just for a simpathy vote. Lame…

Aire Point is great and has now beedn esacallated to one of my all time favourite places to climb… that is until we go somewhere else.

Climbing

Numb Hands

December 20, 2009 dillwat Leave a comment

12th December 2009
Sheeps Tor

Omega Crack – V Diff – Lead
Wind Wall – HVS 5a – TR

On a bitter cold day we picked Sheeps Tor because of the very fact it was East facing. This was into the teeth of the wind but meant it would dry much more quickly after weeks of never ending rain.

Being stupid we decided to start on a HS but after I realised I couldnt feel my fingures we abandoned this for a V Diff next door. I knew Omega Crack was a bit of a sandbag at V Diff but I figured I’d be OK as I’d been leading mainly VS’s recently. WRONG. The cold bit and I ended up faffing around for ten minutes trying to get through the crux low down. Disco leg and cramp later I made it to a mid ledge where everything gets easier.

Both Chris and I decided that that was enough of leading for the day. It always helps to be able to have feeling in your peripherals. Having set a top rope we charged at an HVS which proved to be great cos you could keep your hands warm in gloves and then just jump on and climb quick.

Wind Wall is a great climb with a tricky lower section and a committing move through the thin finger crack. Laybacking is the way and it makes for a really fun climb although the upper section is akward.

I think we’ll be looking for somewhere a bit more sheltered next time but it was still good to be out on rock after so long out because of the rain.

Climbing

Pendeen’s massive hooters

October 18, 2009 dillwat Leave a comment

Pendeen Cliffs
17th October 2009

Second Slip – Severe 4a – Lead
Wave Dancer – Severe 4a – Second
Rip Tide – VS 4c – Nearly drowned

Not the best days climbing I’ve ever had but probably one of the more eventful. Joe and I had not been to Pendeen but with the attraction of a short walk in we thought we’d give it a go.

The lighthouse is very impressive as are the two massive fog horns located on the seaward side. I wouldnt want to be in front of them when they go off! Still they led us to Pendeen Watch, the first of the areas we climbed in. The shorter seaward wall is definitely the more stable and offers some good routes. I went for Second Slip the obvious vertical crack and it turned out to be a gem.

You start from the giant boulder and make a nervy step onto the face (no pro available here but a significant drop if you slip). However once on the face, there is good pro available with some bomber placements. More importantly the crack is steep and tricky in places. Lots of holds, but still exposed for a severe.

With the tide pushing we opted to climb the main face and so Joe set off up Wave Dancer. This too was supposedly a severe. However, the almost complete absence of gear and the fact that what you put in you couldnt trust meant it was more of a 15 metre solo for Joe. Only when he reached the top wall was there some obvoius placements, and these were brittle. I would put the climb as Hard Severe purely on the quality of the rock. Two holds snapped on me as I climbed. The holds are big and the climbing good, but you’re never sure on how hard you can pull.

Then it was off around the corner to Ripe Tide Wall. The book warns that the ledge whilst not tidal in the main , can be washed over by a large swell. On this day the swell was not that big and we were two hours off high tide. We watched for a while and the waves didnt get anywhere near so I geared up and set off down. The bottom of the ramp is smooth and a bit greasey, but you can climb without a rope. Just as I was about to step onto the lower ledge I looked up to see a set coming in substantially bigger than any before . I took off like a startled rabbit back up the bottom section, to see a series of sets completely over the ledge and the area I had been climbing on. Had we not stopped for something to eat we would have been on the ledge climbing so it was a full on warning to watch out when the surfs up.

Instead we played on a little overhang at the bottom of the ramp. Great fun and hard with little pintchy holds. Only problem is that by time we had finished we’d killed one of the twins. An edge had cut the rope right in the middle so it has now been cut in two and will be used for rigging. That was a quick £120 gone.

I expect we will return as there are a number of climbs here still to be done. Next time I’m bringing some rope guards.

The Magik Rock

An iconic day

The three faces of Wednesday

Blood and Thrutch

Rock and Roll Boulders

The good, the bad and the inspirational

More Clodgy

What a difference a week makes

Dont use your knees!!

Numb Hands

Pendeen’s massive hooters

Why it never rains on a Friday!