17th April 2010
Chair Ladder

Diocese – VS 5a – Alt Lead
Terriers Tooth – HS 4b – Second

After the last couple of outings, where failure was becoming a little too familiar, I needed a good clean climb to lift morale. Chair Ladder delivered.

Although a little windy, the face was protected and warm ( a change from last week) and I have had my eye on Diocese for some time. I knew it was the iconic climb of Chair Ladder and had a reputation for being exposed and fairly hard for VS.

As it happened, it was just brilliant. I led the first pitch which is tricky up to the overhanging crack. From here you make a fairly bold move up, bridging from the crack onto the face. It took me a while to get my nerve up, but once committed the everything went smoothly. A truly memorable pitch which laid all of the recent disappointments to rest..

Joe and Chris duly followed raving about how good it was and then Chris was off on the famous traverse with Joe and I watching keenly from the cave. It is exposed, with small foot placements and a balancy final move. But it is a great pitch.

Then it was Joe’s turn up the exposed main face (near flannel avenue) . The climbing is not hard, but the exposure is amazing and it lets you just concentrate on climbing, not fighting to place gear. The last pitch was mine again, again exposed with holds pointing the wrong way to make it comfortable. But a worthy finish to one of the best VS’s in Cornwall.

Of course climbing in three’s chews up time, so our next climb, South Face Direct had to be left for another time much to Joe’s disgust (he has his eye on the second pitch). Still Terriers Tooth is a worthy replacement which Joe and Chris dispatched. Joe led the bold direct start which always adds an edge and the final pitch with the pull onto the slab.

As usual the down climb created a good level of fear. My comment of ‘I hope a hold doesnt snap’ seemed to go down well as we free climbed down off the needle above pinnacle gulley. Oops.

Rest of the photos here