Tag Archives: Diocese

Summer road fun

11th August 2016

Chair Ladder

Diocese – VS 5a – Lead

When you’re looking for an archetypal sea cliff then Chair Ladder seems to fit the bill, especially when thinking of multipitch routes. And so when Rory got hold of me to say he wanted to come down prior to the Boardmasters festival and do some sea cliff climbing…. the destination almost picked itself.

To say it was a fairly intense introduction to sea cliffs would be an understatement. I have always found Chair Ladder a bit intimidating. Possibly the ab in and the fact all the climbs literally start from sea level on a small platform. Anyway, my initial idea of starting on Flannel Avenue evaporated as it became apparent that we’d need to swim to get access to the start. So plan B was Diocese and so we went for it.

The ab in
The ab in

It is such a good climb. An opening technical bridging pitch leads to a very exposed traverse (the so called crux but probably only for the intimidation factor a I found pitch 1 harder technically) and finally a couple of pitches on exposed slabs high above the sea.

Rory on P1 Diocese
Rory on P1 Diocese

It has everything. And I hope Rory enjoyed himself on this one, because it is one of Cornwall’s finest outings on granite.

A snug little belay :-)
A snug little belay 🙂
A very relaxed Rory
A very relaxed Rory

One climb in a day may not seem a lot, but this actually took a lot out of me and by time we had been exposed to the sun and wind for 4 hrs I was prepared to call it a day.

Breaking onto the slab P3 (FA Variation)
Breaking onto the slab P3 (FA Variation)

A quick mooch over to Hella completed a really enjoyable, relaxed day with good friends. Even the 30 min hike out along the road was pleasant, before the inevitable struggle with the summer traffic. Remember “Your car is not as wide as you think it is!”

An iconic day

17th April 2010
Chair Ladder

Diocese – VS 5a – Alt Lead
Terriers Tooth – HS 4b – Second

After the last couple of outings, where failure was becoming a little too familiar, I needed a good clean climb to lift morale. Chair Ladder delivered.

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Although a little windy, the face was protected and warm ( a change from last week) and I have had my eye on Diocese for some time. I knew it was the iconic climb of Chair Ladder and had a reputation for being exposed and fairly hard for VS.

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As it happened, it was just brilliant. I led the first pitch which is tricky up to the overhanging crack. From here you make a fairly bold move up, bridging from the crack onto the face. It took me a while to get my nerve up, but once committed the everything went smoothly. A truly memorable pitch which laid all of the recent disappointments to rest..

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Joe and Chris duly followed raving about how good it was and then Chris was off on the famous traverse with Joe and I watching keenly from the cave. It is exposed, with small foot placements and a balancy final move. But it is a great pitch.

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Then it was Joe’s turn up the exposed main face (near flannel avenue) . The climbing is not hard, but the exposure is amazing and it lets you just concentrate on climbing, not fighting to place gear. The last pitch was mine again, again exposed with holds pointing the wrong way to make it comfortable. But a worthy finish to one of the best VS’s in Cornwall.

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Of course climbing in three’s chews up time, so our next climb, South Face Direct had to be left for another time much to Joe’s disgust (he has his eye on the second pitch). Still Terriers Tooth is a worthy replacement which Joe and Chris dispatched. Joe led the bold direct start which always adds an edge and the final pitch with the pull onto the slab.

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As usual the down climb created a good level of fear. My comment of ‘I hope a hold doesnt snap’ seemed to go down well as we free climbed down off the needle above pinnacle gulley. Oops.

Rest of the photos here

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