Return of the Cruncher

September 15, 2010 dillwat Leave a comment

12th September 2010
Pentire Point

The English Way – HS 4b – Second
Nipped in the Buddha – VS 4c – Lead
Our Stars, Our Sky – VS 4c – Alt Lead P2

This was a day for calendar shots so we took a couple, ensuring the magazine pose was just right. I think I’ll need to stick with the day job though.

Pentire Point in my mind was the playground of ‘grown up’ climbers. People who see E5 as a reasonable grade. So it was great to discover that there is a real mixture of climbing here and some amazing routes. Nick and I ended up doing three great climbs.

Black Zawn is aptly described in its name. It is a place that the sun does not often reach and therefore is a bit forbidding when you first drop down on an abseil. It is also wet in places, mainly due to run off. Having said that there is something magnetic about the climbing there. The two routes we did were both great. The English Way was just a means to climb out at first, but turned out to be worthwhile in its own right. An awkward move at mid height destroys all pretences of elegence and makes your mind work hard.

Nipped in the Buddha was not dry enough in the morning so we considered a couple of options: play around on a top rope on the more difficult climbsor have a go at a route I remembered from somewhere callesd Our Stars, OUR sKY. The latter won out and we lucked into a fantastic route, which provided a great deal of adventure and two good pitches. I led the second pitch which follows a line across the shield face just above the undercut. It’s amazing, one of the best pitches I’ve evr led. Not the hardest, but committing with perfect foot and hand placements where you need them. I had my crunchy moment, as I stepped into a crystalline pocket, but this seems to be a trend with me. Of course my attempts to follow Nicks instructions on communicating with my second went slightly arrae so we sat there like lemons for ten minutes waiting for a signal to move. My fault, but as Nick said, a lesson well learnt.

Still buzzing, I managed to get the lead on Buddha as well. This one is much harder climbing, with some wet areas. To be honest this didnt effect the route and I think I got it as good as you can get it in the dark, dank zawn. Once again, brilliant climbing, pushing me all the way with a tricky crux a few metres above the slab. Its great to have routes where the rock feels really positive and all of them were like this. It can be brittle in places, but take care and you can climb with confidence.

With the sunny day fading we climbed back towards Pentire Farm (just long enough to get another calendar shot). Another new venue for me and somewhere else to add to my long list of places to return to.

Climbing

Mix and Match

September 10, 2010 dillwat Leave a comment

10th September 2010
Carn Boel

Kari – V Diff – Lead

Not happy with having caned our legs last outing, Pete and I decided to march into Carn Boel. Why pick a crag close to the road when you can get away from it all?

Still, it was well worth it. Heavy discussions on Religion and life did not result in the outbreak of hostilities (like it normally does in the world) but helped pass the time as we wandered past the petting zoo. Carn Boel is another exercise in crag finding, although easier than Black Head.

Having found the decent chimneys we made our way to the Terrace ramp only to be faced with trying to work out which route was which. I think in the end we did a Wandering Worlds – Kari – Four Directions combo.

Whatever we did, it seemed harder than V Diff, or else Kari is hard. We ended up doing four pitches but it probably should have been five as we solo’d out the top section. There are lots of holds and foot placements throughout, but pro can be hard to place and particularly on the last narrow sloping ramp there is a committing move which draws you out left forcing you off balance and requiring a bit of boldness. The ramp is steep and slopes away from the cliff making the whole exercise awkward as it says in the guide. As a V Diff leader I would be surprised to be faced with a pitch like this, but alternatively I could be making too much of it.

Pete and I were pleased at how entertaining the whole climb was. Each pitch different technically (the overhang on P3 requires a bit of brute force), whereas the bottom crack is fingery and more balanced. Lots of lichen and vegetation in places, but nothing you cant get around. Altogether another fantastic evening on Cornish granite. Beats being at work!

Pics to follow

Climbing

How far?

September 10, 2010 dillwat Leave a comment

5th August 2010
Black Head

White Russians – VS 4c – Lead

It is noticeable that walking in to a crag always seems easier and quicker than walking out. Black Head is a good 30 – 40 mins from the car park and gives your legs something to think about by time you get there. Couple that with our zig zagging down the bouldery slope to get to the climb and we were well warmed up to say the least.

I found it quite tricky locating the main face, despite my previous visit and Pete and I found a less than direct route to the foot of the crag. This then leaves you with another awkward drop down to a belay stance below White Russians.

We left a short ab rope in situ which we also used to anchor Pete into as part of his belay. If the swell had been bigger the gulley he was in would not have been the place to be!

White Russians is a brilliant climb. Not hard technically, but committing with a sting in the tail. Its the sting that makes it really forcing you out and upwards in an exposed position. What I would say is watch out for loose rocks particularly on the left face of the top arete. There are some football sized lumps just begging to be released. The sea on this evening looked magnificent, turquoise in places studded with rocks and islets. While sat soaking in the spectacle from the belay ledge, Pete found an ankle strap from a racing pidgeon. Turns out it was on its way to Ireland but the fact it was on the ledge next to a pile of feathers suggests it met up with something significantly bigger and more hungry.

As I pointed out at the beginning, the walk back seemed to take forever, but the lights of Coverack were welcoming as we eventually staggered into the pub car park. Amazing evenings climbing, but I was knackered. I think age is gradually catching up.

Climbing

On the not often beaten track

September 10, 2010 dillwat 2 Comments

28th July 2010
Rosemergy Towers

Finger Winch – VS 5a – Lead
Flash Back – Severe 4a – Lead
East Tower Arete – Diff – Lead

Considering its proximity to the coast road, Rosemergy Towers gives you a sense of being in the wilderness. Within minutes of dropping down the track to the Coast Path you feel remote and from the state of the access trail it is a not often climbed venue.

For me and Pete it was our first venture to this area. Viewing the crag from across the valley, we were not aware of the variety of climbing that was going to be available. Once down at the crag it gradually reveals its secrets as you skirt the southern face.

We picked a severe to start on and it proved to be a challenge at the grade. Pleanty of pro except on the crux crack, high on the climb. This proved tricky, but added a level of excitment I was not prepared for. Saying that, it woke me up and prepared me for Finger Winch and different proposition entirely.

I enjoyed this climb, even if it did force an early retreat for me to gather my strength and go go again. Its name does what it says. Small but positive holds enable you to pull up into a series of rounded buttresses. Very rewarding. We finished up the Arete due to dwindling levels of energy and tiredness and made our way to the tea rooms. I can recommend these to all, especially if you catch them like us in the sun and evening warmth.

We’ll go back to the Towers. There is an HVS and E1 which I would like to have a crack at.

Climbing

Feathered Friends

July 13, 2010 dillwat Leave a comment

11th July 2010 Carn Kenidjack

Saxon (Original) – HVS 4c, 4c – Alt Lead P1
RockDancer – E1 5b – Second

After our previous attempt (Nick and I ) to climb at Kenidjack which ended in a thorough drenching we were hoping for more favourable weather. We had cancelled our arrangements for both Friday and Saturday because of the weather report so this was our last chance and things turned out well.

We had targeted three climbs. In the end Thane turned out to be a bit ambitious in the time (especially given my turn of speed) and an attempt at Gneiss Gnome ended in retreat when I found fledglings on a ledge part way up. So it was straight into Saxon and what a climb!

A strenuous start sees you pull up onto a long sloping ramp. The guides are a bit all over the place here in terms of route finding. One says to go to keep going almost to the end of the sloping ramp/crack. The opther suggests tackling the smooth large niche directly. The latter is bold with little gear and does not seem right and the first avoids the main face which is at the heart of Saxon.

So instead I went just to the left of the niche and followed a logical line from there. Great holds and foot placements and adequate gear takes you up the exposed face. Its brilliant fun and once my nerves were settled I loved it. The traverse is straight forward but exhillerating and to cap it I made a hash of the belay in my excitement. Safe, but not making best use of the large block.

Nick finished the top pitch off leaving me to untangle myself. The move off the belay is tricky and you have to move a few metres before gear becomes available, but it caps Saxon off in a suitable way. For me, this is one of the best climbs I’ve done and I want to do it again!

Climb two was equally as good. Bold in places needing a lot of work to find good gear. Again a strenuous start and for half the climb the holds kepp coming. Then you pass a central horizontl crack and the climb ramps everything up a notch. From here on you have to work hard, culminating in a fantastic move up onto a thin ledge (the crux for me). Find the hidden holds……

An excellent lead from Nick who as usual climbed with style. For me… I was left feeling really satisfied with the route which challenged me and pushed me into moves I dont often have to make when on my usual VS’s. A great confidence booster making me want more.

The weather held off and Kenidjack provided its usual spectacular scenery from our lunch spot.

Cornwall just keeps providing. Role on next week.

Climbing

Staring into the void

July 3, 2010 dillwat Leave a comment

2nd July 2010
Zennor Cliff – Upper Cliff

The Royal Forrester – VS 4c – Lead
Sheep Crook, Black Dog – VS 4c – Second

In keeping with this years attemp to visit some of the less well known crags, we headed for Zennor. This is somewhere I’ve been to often, but only when walking, never climbing. You cant see the crags from the path, so as we descended through vegetation made lush by the recent sun and rain we were suprised to come face to face with a lovely 30m high wall.

The upper cliff is split by a destinctive chimney (1923 Route), but there are plenty of obvious lines up the lichenous face. Fortunately, the rock comes through where it counts and the lichen did not prove to be a problem on the two climbs we selected.

However the main shock was the precipitous drop on the seaward side of the lawn we were sat on. It appeared as is often the case that the cliff sloped away, but take a step near the edge and it is straight down for a few hundred feet. – something that inspired an immediate attack of vertigo in both of us.

The Royal Forrester was a great climb. A tough V groove leads up to a niche below an overhang. This is taken on the right and calls for a step into lots of exposure and a committing move up. Find the ‘thank god hold’ and you’re away. You then follow a crack upwards and around a flake. Very enjoyable and feels higher because of the height of the base of the crag. Pro is good, but much to Chris’ annoyance it ‘sinks’ and is hard to retrieve for the second.

However Chris got his revenge on Sheep Crook, Black Dog, a steep VS with a real sting in the crux move. Not as high as The Royal Forrester, it packs a lot into a small section. The moves up to the base of the crack put you in all kinds of shapes and Chris did well protecting the crux. It’s there but you need to think about it.

Chris spent a while summoning the courage to go for the pull up into the crack ( I rekon its a 5a move) but once he went he made a good job of it, even if he did look like he might run out of steam at one point. All credit he hung on and once past the crux it eases and pro becomes easier to find.

All in all though these were two great climbs, worth stars for different reasons. Having grunted our way up the two VS’s we decided we’d had enough fun for the day and took and early bath. However there are a couple more routes on the crack we will return to tackle.

Climbing

You cant climb without ropes

July 3, 2010 dillwat Leave a comment

23rd June 2010
Trewavas Main Crag – West Face

Bending Chimney – V Diff – Lead
Cornel – HS 4b – Lead

This was the first of what will hopefully be many evening sessions at Trewavas. With the amazing weather we’ve had recently the crags are bone dry and in great condition…. in fact it’s better when they’ve cooled down a bit.

As this was Pete’s first experience with double ropes, we started on a classic V Diff. Bending Chimney is the most prominent feature of Trewavas. You can see it from the coast path as you walk in and it is striking. its also great fun to climb. The bottom section is straight forward with a tricky move across to the bottom of the final chimney. But its the main chimnet that is best, squeezing up and emerging through a slit in the slab above.

We had set up an abseil to make things quicker for descending and after showing Pete how to use a prusic and watching him test it fully by releasing all control (which nearly took both of us over the edge – we were tied in so we wouldnt have gone far) we dropped down to start climbing. However….. without ropes its hard, so I had to walk back up and fetch them.

Cornel is a bit harder and hard to protect in the top section without a big CAM. Mine was just big enough, although a backup of a chock helps. Remember your seconder needs small hands to retrieve it though as it sits back very deeply in the crack. The climbing though is good, some bridging and an akward mantelshelf to finish with.

All in all though a good session. Next week we’ll try the East face and some of the slightly longer routes.

Climbing

Not always in Harmony.

May 26, 2010 dillwat Leave a comment

Treen
21st – 23rd May 2010

St Loy
Harmony – HVS 5b – Lead (Dnf)
Monochrome Men – E1 5b – Belay

St Levans Wall
Phenocryst – HVS 5a – Lead
Gentlemans Relish – Severe 4a – Second
The Scorpion – E1 5b (provisional) – Second

The decision to camp at Treen on this weekend could not have been a better one. Probably the best weather of the year and perfect conditions for climbing and camping. Joe, Nick, Kath and I met up in the evening and after setting up spent a relaxing evening down at the The Logan Rock Inn.

It was probably here that Joe and I made a questionable decision to climb at St Loy the following day. Probably the hotest crag in Cornwall on the hotest day of the year so far. We should have foreseen a few problems.

Saturday

Still, its a great venue and we had two climbs in mind (Harmony and Monochrome Men). The former was mine to lead and wasting no time I set off up the first corner/niche before the sun came around onto the face. Well, Harmony proved to be a bit much for me in the end… an opening difficult corner leading into an even harder one. It was the second that stopped me in my tracks. I was just not strong enough or lacked the technique. On reflection I have considered a different approach which I will try next time which will hopefully be shortly.

So then it was on to Monochrome Men, an E1 with a strenuous start. Joe made good work of the opening moves, moving up onto the slab with relative ease. MM is fairly well protected, but Joe’s decision to stay left meant he eventually ran out of holds and pro only a metre or so from the top. Two falls later and well pumped Joe retired to give it a go another time. Meanwhile, I was wilting in the sun and after an brief foray up to the starting ledge I decided discretion was the better part of valour. That and the fact I was kna…d.

So a frustrating day, one which knocked my confidence a bit and made me a tadge grumpy. A BBQ on Pendvounder Beach with our gang and LECC cheered me and Joe up. Stunning views and a sense of isolation make this a perfect spot to end the day with lots of new food to try courtesy of Nick and Kath. I will have to be more inventive when we have BBQ’s.

Sunday

A chance to explore St Levans Wall area or Pedn-men-an-mere. Parking up in the church car park down a quiet lane (with a lovely lady security guard making sure we were all honest) we made our way down to the wall via a series of grasy steps and boulders.

The wall is very impressive with a series of crack running up and across, all of which looked difficult. The E1, Midnight Express, looked unlikely at the grade, but at a later point we were assured its OK. Having just missed Redfish because of the tide, I went for Phenocryst, described as ‘cheese grater granite’. I soon found out why with the rock being crumbly and not giving me the feeling of maximum reliability.

Still, I enjoyed the climbing and reached the top virtually on empty, but very happy with myself. With my breath back I belayed Joe up, who in keeping with his exploits on this weekend snapped a hold and fell off. He was not happy. Nick joined us at the top making me wonder what all the fuss was about… how come I make it look so difficult?

Instead of dropping back down we moved off to the Marconi Slab area and Nick tackled a Severe which led us nicely onto the middle tier. The rock in the Marconi Slab area (lower tier) is not brilliant, but it improves as you move towards the centre recessed cliffs. We found a number of lines here, but finally settled on twin cracks on the headwall of a descent slope. Both Joe and Nick had spotted these and Joe, determined to redeem himself led them.

Later we decided they were around E1 5b, but were not named in the guide. We named it The Scorpion (it may well already have a name) because the climb, which is strenuous from the off leads you to believe that having nailed the final large black chicken head its over. Oh no… the sting in the tail is the final move which is hard, as Joe found out and took his fourth fall of the weekend. Nick took over the lead and finished the route, acknowledging the final tricky move. We’re not sure what the route is, but as Nick remarked just seeing a climb and getting on it is climbing at its purist.

We packed up in pristine weather, with views over Hella Point and the Seagul’s feeling relieved that we were leaving their nesting grounds, walking back to the car park and stopping at the Logan Rock for a beer and a bit of reflection on the weekends events.

For me it was mixed, for Nick his highlight had been Boysens Groove a tough E2 at Cribbar Head and for Joe it had been a weekend of pushing his grades, culminating in a few falls. At least it is a sign of progression that we are tackling climbs of these grades and stature.

Rest of the photos here

Climbing

Stupid Shoes!

May 18, 2010 dillwat Leave a comment

15th May 2010 Chair Ladder

South Face Direct – VS4c – Alt Lead

After the indifferent weather of the last few weeks, we final got our sunny warm day. What better place than Chair Ladder at low tide and another opportunity to have a go at SFD. This was the one we missed out on last time, much to Joe’s frustration, so after an abortive attempt to descend the South end we set up to ab into the gulley beneath SFD. The ledges were full of nesting guls, but the route seemed to be clear of them as far as we could tell. Or was that just wishful thinking.

SFD is everything you would want in a VS, with a mixture of technical climbing, grunt and exposure. Joe was keen to tackle the 2nd pitch so I led off on the first. A good warm up pitch which indicates what is to come. The 2nd pitch though is much tougher. A difficult shallow groove to start which forces you upwards in the search for good holds and then a niche with a difficult exit. There was a hidden hold here which makes it much easier,but you have to find it….unfortunately Joe didnt so he had to do it the hard way.

When you pass the famous saddle horn you should bear right, but with a seagul nesting at the top of the V crack Joe went left leading to an akward top out onto the ledge. Probably slightly harder than the original variation, but fun.

The third pitch was mine. After negotiating the nesting gul, who didnt mind us that much uttering a few sqwarks, you move up to a slightly overhanging crack. Strenuous but with good holds and really fine climbing. I had not expected this so the suprise was brilliant. At this point Joe decided to chuck his shoe at a seagul on the ledge below his belay (not a good idea when you’re 100ft up) and had to downclimb to get it. The bird was not pleased and put up a stiff resistance to Joe’s efforts to regain his shoe. Talk about luck… 1ft further and Joe would have had to swim to retrieve his shoe.

The final pitch is 4a and again good climbing, finishing through another niche. Having despatched this we negotiated our way off the pillar (more difficult if you are shorter) and settlled down for lunch, completely dehydrated and knackered. Dehydration makes you clumsy I discovered on the decent to pick up the ab rope, tacking a flyer when I caught my shoe on one of the boulders. Somehow I landed on the only patch of grass around. I couldnt have planned it better, but it was a wake up call to take care.

Exhausted, we retreated back to the car at the end of a beautiful and amazing days climbing. The cliffs are alive at the moment with all their splendor on show. Role on next weekend and our camping trip.

Climbing

Fulmar Country

April 27, 2010 dillwat Leave a comment

25th April 2010
Doyden Point

Caprice – VS 4c – Lead
Lotus – E1 5b – Second

Things looked bleak stood in the car park at Port Quinn sheltering under a wooden porch staring at the bay. A heavy rainstorm had come through and climbing at that point looked unlikely.

However, after meeting Nick we decided to mooch over to Doyden point and Kellan Head and scout the place out in the hope the stiff South Westerly would dry things out. Doyden point has a remote feeling to it and a strange square house built out of local stone which adds to the atmosphere. You can’t see the crag from above, but we assumed we’d found the ab point. We anticipated that the Fulmars may be nesting in the area with two of them swooping around us. The thought of Fulmar puke was not a pleasant one, but as it turned out we neednt have worried. Still waiting for things to dry we checked out Kellan Head which was also very impressive. A steep and somewhat damp area, you could see the potential.

Once things had dried Nick ab’d in only to find a tricky traverse not really explained in the guide. It’s possible, but a fall in freezing cold sea didnt seem a good idea so we moved across and dropped in around the top out point of Caprice. This was still a tricky decent , requiring a move left across the crag face and avoiding a nasty swing back around the arete.

Once on the ramp you are still very aware of the sea. My advice would be to avoid climbing in all but small swell conditions. The chance of a rogue set catching you is all too possible.

Caprice is a stylish VS, not hard for the grade, but with a couple of tricky moves. Excellent climbing and lots of fun. The final top out of a few metres is the most worrying part, crossing very broken and precarious rock. I think it is more dangerous to place protection here than to solo it. Fall on a nut wedged in a crack here and the cliff might follow you.

Nick had his eye on Lotus so we dropped straight back down and set up in the sunshine. Lotus climbs a steep crack and then heads off to the right, crossing a very steep face and finishing up a ramp which slopes away from the cliff and down from the top. Not that I’m familiar with E1’s but the climbing seemed hard, but more importantly very exposed. Having watched Nick climb smoothly up and across, my effort was not as dignified, but I found out what all the practice at the wall was for.

I loved it. Scary, but each move seemed to lead into the next and the whole climb was very varied. Of course watching Nick snap a hold and lob off on the final move with 40 odd metres of rope out, didnt help my nerves (or his I would think). Take into account rope stretch and the distance to the nearest gear it was impresive, although I dont think thats the correct word. Luckily it was straight down with nothing below.

The rising ramp was the highlight for me. The move up was hard and I felt right out there. Luck was obviously with us this day, with the day ending in a completely different way to the start; the sun shining across the bay silouetting the Rumps over at Pentire. Strangely quiet as well, after a day in the gusty wind.

All in all a brilliant day out and I would recommend Doyden Point as a venue. OK, on to Rock a Bye Baby…………

The Magik Rock

Return of the Cruncher

Mix and Match

How far?

On the not often beaten track

Feathered Friends

Staring into the void

You cant climb without ropes

Not always in Harmony.

Stupid Shoes!

Fulmar Country

Why it never rains on a Friday!