17th February 2012

Chair Ladder
South Face Direct – VS 4c – Alt Lead

Its one of the main factors to take into account with sea cliffs. The tide and swell conditions can change your arrangements in an instance, especially as many of the Cornwall crags are only properly accessable for about 3 hours either side of low tide.

Chris and I had wanted to climb Red Wall, a severe I’ve had my eye on for a while, but after abbing down Ash Can Gulley to the base of SFD it quickly became apparent that we wouldnt get around the corner: at least not without getting soaked.

With the bottom pitch of SFD dripping (I know because I slimed my way back up it thanks to Chris’ belay at the start of pitch two) we decided to tackle SFD. Last time I climbed this was with Joe so we flipped the pitches around so that I would lead P2 and Chris the remainder.

I remember the second pitch being tricky and it lived up to expectations. It is great climbing though, not strenuous, but more technical than many VS’s. On reaching the bollard, I made the same mistake as we had done last time, going left and making the top out onto the ledge a lot harder than it needed to be. Also a lot more guano infested, which was stinking.

Chris had a quick intro to the fierce pitch three overhang. Lots of holds and pro, but it still takes a lot of grunt to get up it. It’s my favorite pitch on SFD, purely because of the wildness of it. You dont normally get pitches like this on a VS.

After losing a number 4 wallnut on the top pitch (I dont think Chris was impressed as it was the first time we’d used it!) we set of for Treen and a deserved warm up. The belay ledges had been cold work today, mainly because of the wing. Chris and I mused over what a good start to the season we had just had….