Monthly Archives: June 2012

Climbing

So much to choose from

Leave a comment

28th June 2012

Trewavas East Buttress

Mascara – VS 4c – Lead
Sams Indirect finish to bending chimney – VS 4c – Second

We needed somewhere dry and not blown away by the fresh breeze and Trewavas seemed a fair bet. For Chris it was his first visit and for Dave it was a return after a fairly lengthy break. In fact when he was last here I was just starting off with my own climbing and I remember well how I struggled to get going on Joy.

Stunning!

On this excursion I picked an adjacent climb called Mascara. I’d seen a photo online and ever since wanted to have a crack at it. The initial section is straight forward until you reach the top of the corner underneath the overhang,

The scary bit on Mascara

Then it gets interesting. A long bridge opens up the arete and you need to swing out and pull up onto the face around the corner. Tricky but just keep looking for the  holds and you’ll find them.

Chris getting flexible with Mascara

I actually found the top crack the most nervewracking, because of the lack of decent pro. It’s not difficult but adds an edge to the end of the climb. Mascara gets a thumbs up in my book though. A top climb.

Bending Chimney - A classic route

Deviously I suggested Sams indirect finish to Bending Chimney as a possible lead for Chris. Having done the top section as part of Flanker a few weeks back with Pete I knew what he was in for.

Probably the crux move on SIFTBC

And it didnt disappoint. Chris cruised through the chimney and came to an abrupt stop at the base of the crack. The usual result in my experience.

Dave trying a layback on SIFTBC

The biggest factor is the sudden exposure and then going from relatively relaxed climbing in the chimney to strenuous work getting up the initial part. of the narrow crack. With the pump on from the start Chris found himself running out of energy with 3 feet to go. The result was a desperate push for the top  before the arms gave out. This time Chris made it and deprived us of the spectacle of a lob off the steep face. A really top effort.

Dave on the top crack of SIFTBC

With so many climbs in a small area we’ve plenty more to go back to. Including South Groove an E1  I ‘ve been meaning to have a go at for a while.

 

Climbing

Jungle Warfare

Leave a comment

22nd June 2012

Tregiffian

Thea – Severe 4a – Second
Acid Test – VS 4c – Lead
Prior Claim – Severe 4a – Second

The hardest part about climbing at Tregiffian is getting there. A solid walk in from Boskenna Cross gets you to a low granite wall and a very indistinct path that just disappears into massive stinging nettles and brambles.

Tregiffian in all its glory

A machette would be handy here, but after getting scratched and stung in the cliff jungle you burst out onto a glorious meadow which sits above the crag. There below is Tregiffian, a small amphitheatre of ochre granite. It’s beautiful.

Dave high on Thea
Thea top to bottom

Finding your bearings takes a while, but if you follow the rocky buttress on the right facing out you come to a cave made out of precariously balanced boulders. This leads to the main crag. The swell meant the far side of the crag was wave washed an unaccessable even at low tide, but there were a number of routes close to the cave. The first of which was Thea which Dave set about leading.

Dave on the crux of Thea
Tom just above the crux of Thea

Graded Severe, Thea has a tricky and poorly protected crux. The rock is a bit suspect too in the lower reaches, but the higher you get the better everything becomes, culminating in some brilliant face climbing below the pinnacle. A good climb in my books and a great first Severe lead for Dave.

Tom in the niche of Prior Claim

Tom lead the last climb of the day, Prior Claim, also his first severe, making it a landmark day. This was a complete contrast in technique to Thea. Protection was good throughout, but there were a number of exposed and tricky moves, both low down and near the top.

Dave about to step out on Prior Claim

Riding high on the rounded crest of the ridge, it is spectacularly placed and was agreat climb to finish the day on.

Ian about to start the crack of Acid Test
Looking down from the belay of Acid Test

Sandwiched in between these two was my lead on Acid Test. It is worthy of it’s stars. Innocuous from the ground it proves a lot more trcky when you get up to it. I thought it was a hand traverse, but instead in became an exercise in balance, requiring some contortions to place gear.

Looking across at Acid Test the right to left thin rising crack.

As much as it scared the pants of me at first, I thought it was excellent and I want to do it again – this probably says it all about how much I rate it.

Dave soloing high above Acid Test

The walk back out was long and hard and we were all knackered by time we got to the car (having chased a fox out of the adjacent field). Tregiffian is already marked in my diary for an early return. This time with the full crew and with a smaller swell so we can tackle the whole crag. Oh yes and with a fishing rod!

Climbing

How Old?

Leave a comment

17th June 2012
Penberth

They do at that age – HVS 5a – Lead

I’m not sure what age this climb refers to, but its one I’ve wanted to lead right from when I first started climbing. Penberth was a regular destination back in the mid 00’ies. Lots of top roping and soloing, but I avoided the main problems. Probably because I didn’t feel confident to tackle them.

Gearing up for They Do At That Age

My recollection of TDATA was that I  fell off it on a Top Rope way back and that it was hard. It lived up to my memories. A great but balanced and airy traverse leads to an awkward crack.

Dave on the traverse into the crack

There are plenty of protection opportunities but as you go higher the crack runs out resulting in a transfer across to another crack on the right. This is the crux imo, and takes a bit of working out. The thank God flake tops it off.

Pre crux on They Do At That Age

There is an offwidth to finish on, but it is very hairy with lichen and gritty. Also there is no pro and a fall off the top here would result in a 30-40ft wipper. So I balked and escaped sideways, content I’d done what was a fantastic face climb. 3 stars.

Both Dave and Tom finished the wide top crack, which is great for laybacking. It just needs more traffic.

Hornet looking deceptively easy angled....

We moved across to Hornet and short but great VS. As with many climbs it looks easier than it is. Dave and Tom practised on gear placement, which on Hornet is not easy.

The flared cracks of Hornet

The direct finish is committing. The pro for it is low and in a flared crack so probably not reliable. Take the niche and there are more options. Personally I prefer the groove finish. More technical and rounds off the climb nicely.

Tom topping out on Hornet
Climbing

A case of mistaken identity

Leave a comment

9th June 2012
Helman Tor

Hell’s Tooth – E2 5c – Lead

A very late decision to get out and climb brought Dave and myself to Helman Tor. The easy option for us when in a bit of a hurry (The Euro’s are on and as much as I want to climb I also want to watch the football) and given the unsettled weather a chance for some bouldering… or so I thought.

I also forgot the guidebook so it was a case of climb what you think looks good. And the rounded arete on the lower section looked good. After explaining to Dave that I thought it was about E1 we set up.

The biggest issue is the pro. The bottom section is bold and despite a runner out wide I was aware that a fall here would hurt. Dave’s advice was to start on the ‘Bloody Hellman’ face a swing round onto the arete and this proved right. A sketchy move to the break lets you get some gear in and then it’s a case of tackling each rounded overlap until you get to the the final move.

This was not as bad as I thought it would be. The potential for a drop into the fissure between Bloody Hellman and the adjacement rock is there, but there are a couple of good holds. After farting around for a bit double checking my pro I went for it, discovering that I need to do a bit more flexibility training in the process. My leg just doesnt go that high most of the time.

Finding out it was my first E2 was brilliant, although I would say it is E2 for the boldness as much as anything. 5c is probably a bit high for the technical grade, although I think this depends on how you climb it!

 

Climbing

A right good spanking

Leave a comment

1st June 2012

St Loy

Ivy Incorporated – V Diff – Second
Harmony – HVS 5b – Lead (dnf)
Monochrome Men – E1 5b – Second
Supercruise – HVS 4c – Lead

I returned to St Loy for one specific reason on this day and as with my attempt before with Joe, Harmony gave me a good seeing to.

Once again things just did not flow on this HVS. I thought I new what I was going to do, but its easy to forget how akward the climb is and how pumpy it is too. Add to this my sweaty hands and I had a recipe for disaster which I duly served up to myself.

Ian making it look like a straight forward step up. IT ISN'T!

I have resolved now to return on a cool evening and remember the lessons I have learnt so far.

  • Dont place pro on the high crucial hold on the first niche. Otherwise you just make it even harder.
  • Wait until my hands are not as sweaty so I can get the jam working on the second niche.
  • Do this climb at the end of a session, otherwise the bitter taste of defeat stays with you.
Ian about to get his second spanking of the day on Harmony
At least this time I didnt spit my dummy out…..just.
Otherwise this was a great session, mixed with Chris adding to his E1 tally and Dave tackling a stiff V Diff. And we had the company of Dolphins, which always brings a smile to your face.
Dave kicking things off on Ivy Incorporated

 

Ivy Incorporated is not a straight forward V Diff. The bottom section is steep and unusually for a climb of this grade you place gear in a not very relaxed position.
Dave looking after Ian on Ivy Incorporated
But it is a fine climb, leading to a high top out above the main face. Dave managed to find the biggest pro placement I’ve ever seen looping a sling around a three ton boulder. Its what you might call ‘bomber’.
Chris moving onto the face on Monochrome Men
Chris had great fun on Monochrome Men, a demanding E1 but well protected. It really should get four stars it’s that good. As some passing climbers said, if MM was up country there would be people on it all day and I could see why. A committing swing on to the face leads to good holds and pro.
Chris getting balanced before the final tenuous moves on Monochrome Men
But as you get higher the holds and foot placements start to get thin culminating in a desperate move for the thank god holds at the top. Just brilliant.
Dave about to encounter the difficult stuff on Monochrome Men
My final climb of the day was Supercruise, a soft HVS given 4c, but really more 4b in my opinion. I think it gets the HVS for the bold moves high up where you leave your pro a way behind.
Cruising on Supercruise
Having said that, its a good climb, if a little taxing on the toes. I thoroughly enjoyed it and it is a good candidate for a warm up if your going to tackle the other more demanding E numbers at St Loy.
And with that we walked out a lot quieter than we had arrived. Exhausted but happy.
…. as Larry