Zip – VS 4c – Lead Panos – HS 4b – Second Bandwagon – E1 5b – Lead Midnight Express – E1 5b – Lead (dog)
A brilliant day marred by my nemesis which as usual bit me on the arse.
Sheltered from the wing St Levans Wall was the perfect venue. With a good low tide we had plenty of time to play on the climbs on the lower tier as well.
To start though I had a go at Zip a VS with a tough start. I keep forgetting that VS are not there to warm up on and this one as usual reminded me of that as I struggled up the initial crack to be halted at a slightly bold mantleshelf. I actually enjoyed it though, the same of which can be said for Chris.
Tom on the latter hard moves of Panos
He started on Panos, an HS with a bite. The opening V goove isnt easy but the top move onto the pillar is made spicy if you stay right which seems to take you away from anything useful to pull over on. Tom and Dave intelligently went left which seemed a far more amenable finish. Still, one to get the heart going.
Chris flaking before Bandwagon
Bandwagon looks good from below and it didn’t disappoint. Good delicate climbing which requires good footwork and a steady head through the crux. Just our type of route really and we both loved it.
Chris at the crux on Bandwagon
And so to the finale. What could go wrong after such a good start. Midnight Express beckoned me, and proceeded to teach me a lesson in humility and trash my bank account at the same time as 5 of my Nuts cascaded into the deep water filled trough below. Thats my third attempt. Its got to be fourth time lucky?
The view across to Porthgwarra
Still, it didnt detract from a great day out although it took a little while for the red mist to clear. One to get on again soon methinks.
Songs from a Gentle Man – VS 4c – Lead The Peoples Queen – VS 4c – Lead Dolphin Surprise – HS 4b – Lead Songs from a Broken Heart – VS 4c – Lead The Womb Tomb – Severe – Second
Despite our round about route to The Lizard via St Erth (caused by our usual indecision) this turned out to be a good choice. 2013 is going to be the year of the never ending winter. Lots of sun on this day, but accompanied by a cold North Westerly which we were fortunate to be sheltered from.
Gearing up.
We managed quite a few climbs on this day. With all the routes being single pitch and access very easy we were up and down all day. Dave and I kicked off on a cracker called Songs from a Gentle Man, a route which follows an exposed arete. It looks bold at first but there’s gear where you need it. The rock is fragile in places, but you dont need to haul on it. Use your feet well and it feels secure. I thought it was great, one of the best at this venue.
The arete of Songs from a Gentle Man
Meanwhile Tom was leading the tricky Vumba, which has some good moves in its final section. Dave set off on Peoples Queen, which is hard VS. The difficulties are short lived, but the main groove pushes you out and if you get your shape wrong its tough.
Pete exiting the difficult groove of Peoples Queen.
My attempt on Dolphin Surprise was delayed whilst I tried to work out the opening moves. Considering this was graded HS 4b it was the hardest move I did all day. It’s a real pumpy pull up to the first ledge using a less than perfect hold. Once past this the rest of the climb is straight forward, but its a shock to the system.
The view from the start of Womb Tomb. Tom about to head off.
The four of us left the best till last. The Womb Tomb is brilliant. You get to the start through a narrow gash in the rock which brings you into a dark almost enclosed chimney which widens as it rises. Climb this on surprisingly grippy rock until you break out into the sunrise with a wide bridging move.
The bold move out of the dark chimney.
A bold step across lets you exit onto the seaward side of the pinnacle on the right (facing landwards). A climb that is guaranteed to put a smile on your face.
The view across towards Amnesty Wall.
Gearing up.
Looking out of the gash in Womb Tomb.
The view from the start of Womb Tomb. Tom about to head off.
Prehistoric Cave Paintings!!!
The stepover on Womb Tomb
Shadows
Pete in the gloom
Happy Dave.
Finishing WT.
The bold move out of the dark chimney.
Dave having emerged from the cave of Womb Tomb.
Tom on Songs from a Broken Heart
And Relax!
Pete exiting the difficult groove of Peoples Queen.
The Horse (The Lizard) Tie That Critta Down – VS 4c – Alt lead
A day for some exploration and a day where location was all important. We spent much of the day watching huge cumulonimbus forming over central Cornwall and unloading their payload.
However the Predannack area missed it all and was in beautiful sunshine for most of the day. More importantly we had planned it that way so boy were we smug!
The Horse, a remote venue is not just round the corner from the Predanack Farm parking as Chris and I had assumed. It’s actually a good 30-40 minutes walking, snaking along the coast path providing one stunning vista after another. On a sunny day with no wind and calm seas, this coast becomes magical. If the water temperature was higher for longer I dont think there would be anywhere better in the world. It’s a real privelege to be able to call this your backyard and take advantage of it so often. It’s why I stayed in Cornwall.
There is a remarkable ridge feature on the walk in. A sort of mini Commando Ridge, but somewhat less stable I think. It does look like a classic though and Chris and I have marked it for an early return this year. There could be some issues getting down to it but it looks a proper adventure.
The Horse is a startling promontory with a long access ridge finishing in a rounded pinnacle. The guide is not that clear on how to find the climbs and we spent a good amount of time getting our bearings. Basically, from the top point on the promontory, the routes are down to your right looking out to sea. Scramble down the broken and somewhat grassy slope as though you were heading towards Carn Vellan. Its a bit dodgy here. We used an ab rope for assistance but you could just scramble it. You eventually get to a sloping yellow ramp. Ab off left and it takes you down to the sea level ledges.
The coating of yellow moss adds another dimension; catch it wrong and you find youself starting to slide. At times it feels like you’re walking on butter! On the other hand it turns the cliffs into ‘Monet’ like paintings with the amazing yellows it produces.
Be warned if you anchor the rope at the top of the main promontory you intend to use it for the final ab you have about a foot of spare rope on a 50m so put a knot in it! Also it only gets you to the higher ledges; a 60m will get you to the bottom ledges.
Even when we got down there the routes are not obvious. They should be cos theres a striking crack and niche which is part of TTCD. We couldnt track down Queen of May at first and even later I’m not sure we got it right. We’ll need to come back and spend more time checking it out.
TTCD though was worthwhile. A tough and strenuous first pitch was tackled by Chris. It looks easier than it is (I’ve heard that a few times before). A tricky move gains the niche and exposed bridging gets you to the ledge. The rock I think is serpentine like, with a purple tinge to it. Not quite granite, but solid nevertheless. The top pitch is more broken- Chris described it as prehistoric which seems apt as it looks ‘old’.
Pitch two takes on the more suspect rock higher on the crag. Traverse right and move through jenga territory it some pretty exposed positions. Great climbing but the fact I pulled a fist sized lump of rock off tells it all.
A great day out and like old times for me and Chris. This is a ‘must return’ venue with loads more potential. and anyway the walk in is worth it in its own right,
The less stable top pitch
The airy top niche
Chris after the tough opening moves on Tie That Critta Down
Gallipoli – E1 5c – Lead Commando Ridge – HVS 5a Variation – Lead
An early finish from work was the call, especially with the news bleating on about a change in weather. A rain front was due around 6pm so we thought we could grab a few hours before it arrived.
The last time we came to this area we got caught out by rain so this time it was a pronto decent to the bottom platform. Gallipoli caught my eye a while back. A fantastic line up immaculate granite. It’s given 5c in the guide, but from the bottom doesnt look too bad.
The line of Galipoli
Looks can be deceptive though and I was soon taught a lesson in how to miss-read a crux from below. Pete, diligent as always witnessed me try a number of different variations to nail the crux, before I realised it was a case of ‘manning up’ and going for it. I made it, but I cant say I felt secure. Once committed the holds become apparent but they are not helpful as a whole.
I’ve not done a lot of 5c moves and this felt significantly harder than the 5b’s I’d done recently. It gives me confidence for having a go at some of the E2’s in this range though.
Looking back at our alternative start
Pete declined Gallipoli but we spotted a slightly different line following a crack which finishes in the niche at the top of Pitch 2 of commando ridge. Not in the guide I would guess it to be in the HVS 5a region. Strenuous and sustained but with good pro. The two Herring Gulls guarding their nest looked on in amusement and a bit of angst as Pete and I struggled up and traverse around into the niche. (we kept well clear of them and their eggs)
Eggs!
Once on the ridge we thought it would be churlish not to tackle the big fin. This is probably the best pitch on the ridge and I didnt want to rob Pete of the chance of standing on the pinnacle which he did in good style.
Pete on the fin
We abandoned the ridge with grey clouds building all around us. Perfect timing and back in time for tea this time. Next up….. Lands End me thinks.
Twilight – HS 4b – Second Our Stars, Our Sky – VS 4c – Second
I wasnt sure that I would make this session, as it had been a hectic weekend, but with the sun out and a calm windless evening in prospect, it was too good to resist.
Chris arriving at the ramp after Pitch 1 OSOS
As it happened I arrived at just the right time. Dave had led Twilight and I grabbed a rope and seconded up after him. It’s a good climb too with a good move up into the crack/niche. Just the right antidote to get us all looking for more.
Given the conditions I couldnt help thinking that OSOS would be a good bet. The problem was getting four of us across the traverse was going to take time, but the sun would last.
Chris and Tom checking out the traverse… “what across there!”
After a guarantee of adventure to the others we set off to find the not so obvious abseil. With a good sized swell washing up the runnel, traversing into the base was also exciting. Came within a few inches of catching me out.
Out there…
On this occasion the bottom pitch was a lot drier and was a good climb. The move around the nose requires a bit of thought, but to be honest it’s all about pitch 2 which Dave led. Probably a step up in the whole exposure/technical difficulty area for him but he seemed to breeze through it. There is a runout after the initial start for about 12 ft or so which adds spice, but the pro is so bomber and the drop so steep that it is a safe VS. Having said that its not an easy one and you need to factor in the exposure and feeling of being ‘out there’ the the route radiates.
Relief to have made it before the dark sets in.
Chris and Tom paired up as a second team and followed us across, meaning we finished in the gloom, but with a beautiful sky as the back drop. Not many other places I would rather have been on a day like this.
Even further out there…
Out there…
Is that a touch of nerves?
Chris arriving at the ramp after Pitch 1 OSOS
Relief to have made it before the dark sets in.
Tom tops out on Or Stars Our Sky in the gloom
Chris and Tom checking out the traverse… “what across there!”
