31st October 2014 Carn Barra Edge Street – VS 4c – Lead
This was a long awaited return for both Dave and Pete to the group, having spent the last weeks recouperating from ripped tendons/ligaments and a broken ankle respectively.
Rough Seas at Black Carn North
We spent a couple of hours checking out Black Carn North which shows loads of promise but was a bit exposed and damp on this day. We spotted three good routes and an E2 which looks tough but do-able.
Looking across at Carn Barra
Retreating to the upper cliffs of Carn Barra turned out to be a good call. A little less exposed and Edge Street was very worthwhile. A technical first pitch leads to a run out second. The arete is very bold if followed religously, but I veered off left to place some pro before returning for the final exposed moves.
Dave enjoying Edge Street
Dave finished it off with a strenuous final pitch involving a a bouldery move to get established on the face. Tom and Pete meanwhile were engaged in a sort of jigsaw climb where they pieced together pitches from at least three routes into what looked like a reall good climb.
A fun and welcome return to climbing for all of us.
Carn Kenidjack was the better of the two venues for shelter. Tucked away in a narrow zawn it protects you from the worst of the wind and on this day that was a bonus.
Cape Cornwall. Great name ..Cape
Setting up a top rope at Kenidjack is not easy. All the anchors are set well back and they dont line up on the belay spot. Me and Joe made a pretty good job of it in the end… good enough to feel safe anyway.
I really enjoyed the climb and I know Joe did too by the smile on his face. It is steady for the most part but has its moments. A bold start and finish and a tough crux. If I was to lead this I would want to do it in perfect conditions as overall it is a bold lead. I couldnt help but keep glancing across to Thane. Must do that the next time we are here.
Big swell in the bay
It was then off for a bit of an explore at Carn Clogh. I remebered there were a couple of HVS’s here and though we might try them. With a howling wind we set up below Nutse, a fierce looking HVS that tackles an overhang.
The line of Nutse
For a change I took it on (I was wondering why when trying to pull through the crux). It is really all about negotiating the overhang. It looks unlikely but the holds are there. You just have to find them. Fortunately I did and it turned out to be a great, although unsteady, climb.
By time we finished we could barely stand still so it was off homwe with a good buzz and mucho windburn.
Big swell in the bay
Somber day for climbing. Shame you cant see the wind.
Ivy Wall – VS 4c – Lead (dnf) Right Hand Chimney – V Diff – Second Black Jam Crack – VS 4c – Lead
I returned to Luckey Tor full of confidence. It had been many years since Ivy Wall kicked my arse resulting in the biggest fall I’ve had to date. This time I knew it was my turn to get the glory.
Meadows on the walk in
After some iffy navigating on my part, we arrived at Dartmeet (the real one this time) and set off on the quite stunning walk in, down the bank of the Dart. Having had our lives affirmed thoroughly, we wandered into the clearing and shared the rest of the day with two ponies in the clearing.
One of the more beautiful venues
So, onto Ivy Wall. It looked easier than last time, although I noticed that the convenient chockstone was missing. Still it wouldnt make any difference. Actually it didnt, cos I messed up completely and ended after an hours worth of frustration walking away in disgust.
The arete of the The Eyrie
The problem I have is that I’m not that flexible so squeezing into the niche was not enticing, so I went for the direct start which is pump and strenuous. It was a poor effort, brought on by over confidence. next time hopefully. Tom suffered a similar experience and so we went to the far side of the tor where we found a couple of classics.
Tom on Right Hand Chimney
Tom’s route was actually graded Diff, but I ca assure potential leaders that there are a couple of difficult moves, one with poor pro. Not Diff, but great climbing that makes you think a lot.
Black Jam Crack
The jam fest of Black Jam Crack was also good. As usual I didnt make it look easy, but I did enjoy squeezing up and making a desperate lunge for the top. I made it… just.
Stunning
And so ended another brilliant journey into Dartmoor. Must return here next summer and camp. A swim in the river beckons!
