2nd October 2014
Luckey Tor (aka Eagle Rock)

Ivy Wall – VS 4c – Lead (dnf)
Right Hand Chimney – V Diff – Second
Black Jam Crack – VS 4c – Lead

I returned to Luckey Tor full of confidence. It had been many years since Ivy Wall kicked my arse resulting in the biggest fall I’ve had to date. This time I knew it was my turn to get the glory.

After some iffy navigating on my part, we arrived at Dartmeet (the real one this time) and set off on the quite stunning walk in, down the bank of the Dart. Having had our lives affirmed thoroughly, we wandered into the clearing and shared the rest of the day with two ponies in the clearing.

So, onto Ivy Wall. It looked easier than last time, although I noticed that the convenient chockstone was missing. Still it wouldnt make any difference. Actually it didnt, cos I messed up completely and ended after an hours worth of frustration walking away in disgust.

The problem I have is that I’m not that flexible so squeezing into the niche was not enticing, so I went for the direct start which is pump and strenuous.  It was a poor effort, brought on by over confidence. next time hopefully. Tom suffered a similar experience and so we went to the far side of the tor where we found a couple of classics.

Tom’s route was actually graded Diff, but I ca assure potential leaders that there are a couple of difficult moves, one with poor pro. Not Diff, but great climbing that makes you think a lot.

The jam fest of Black Jam Crack was also good. As usual I didnt make it look easy, but I did enjoy squeezing up and making a desperate lunge for the top. I made it… just.

And so ended another brilliant journey into Dartmoor. Must return here next summer and camp. A swim in the river beckons!