15th December 2023
Penberth
Wavemaster – Diff – Lead
New Bionicle – VS 5a – Lead
I’ve been to Penberth so often its like my second home climbingwise. So it was strange to suddenly not know how to get to the crag. Clearly some coastpath shenanigans have been undertaken, meaning now it runs a bit higher up and the usual descent onto the slabs is bypassed. I think it is to preserve the delicate area just above the rocky platform so its fair enough. But the fact it is quite overgrown gives an indication of how long its been since we were there.
Forgetting the guidebook was a first for me. Spending too much time on UKC is a clear cause. Read the route reviews and forget to research where they actually are 🙂 . That wont happen again.
So Wavemaster is a gripfest of a climb. Very soloable, but good as a lead route. The rock is purpose made to be grabbed hold of, course, grainy and positive and was a good opener for the day.
New Bionicle was slightly different. Its very deceptive from below. The clear cracklines are actually shallower than expected, particularly on the right side of the upper slab. Turns out the upper slab holds two routes. The left is a HS and the right a VS, a bit contrived to separate the two, but if you do the right is delicate with few out and out holds and more about your feet.
Climbing on a single rope meant I had to pick a crack. I chose right because I ghought it might be more protectable. Jury is out on that one. The final move to the apex jug is ‘adventurous’ ( that one was for Barry). In the wet the whole affair feels a bit slippy but still great climbing. I was very please to see it through, as was Barry, who stepped up quite a bit on this one, into a land of side pulls, chicken heads and small edges.
Meanwhile Chris and Tom were having fun on the main HS which runs up the centre. Always challenging and probably more so given the conditions. The barnacle encrusted lower section is a bit nasty judging by the language coming from Tom. Main thing is we beat the Tide so no wet feet today.
The weather and light made further routes seem a chore so we headed off. Two more climbs bagged at one of my favorite venues. We’ll be back for barbeques and swims in the summer no doubt. Might even try the E1 (Thirty Something’) again haha. Fell off it last time.