2nd June 2025

Pentire – Redwalls
Joseph Bell – HS 4b – Lead

Mike and me are making a habit of these evening climbs. They are encouraging us to do a bit more local exploration, which I have to be honest and say should have been the case anyway.

This evening saw a return to Pentire Head and the Redwall area. Really easy access from the Pentire Farm car park. Just follow the main track to the coast and drop down right of the bench. It looks like you should go left, but the right gulley allows you to arc around to the face. It’s also out the wind when it’s South Westerly.

I’d previously done a couple of climbs on this wall, but had missed the HS, so me and Mike set up for what we thought would be a straight forward route. It was in a way, but the opening steep and awkward corner catches you out, meaning it’s easy to get pumped. We split it into two pitches which seemed sensible. The second up the tall corner is well protected and has good holds. The rock appears more fragile, but I had no breakages, although some holds you wouldnt want to yard on. Both of us were pretty knackered by time we finished. I still dont feel quite climbing fit. More work needed on endurance.

The belay at the top is awkward. There’s a very old stake which is decidedly dubious, but would probably hold. You can find placements in the little rock crowns scattered behind, but I’d advise using multiple anchors.

The weather wasnt the bright sunshine of our previous outings. Much more forbidding, but the light created a bit of a Jurrasic Park feel to the area. Still amazingly beautiful.