Penberth was of course the original venue at which Iwas introduced to climbing by Bart. It therefore holds very fond memories for me and returning there is never a chore.
A new member of our group came along. For Harrison it was his first experience of outdoor climbing and my thought was that Penberth provided a good venue where we could tackle a few reasonably graded routes while at the same time introducing him to the safety routines and climbing protocols that he’ll need when we go to the more serious venues like Bosi or Chair Ladder (no I wouldnt… not yet anyway).
Harrison warming up on Excalibur
So during the course of the day we visited some Penberth classics such as Nicks Niche and The Hornet, as well as spending some time in Area 5 which needs a low tide. It was good practice for Chris and I as well as we went though some of the basics, which we always need refreshers on.
Harrison on Bionicle HS 4b
The rising tide, which almost caught us on Nicks Niche ( a wave actually spat just past me soaking the whole climb but miraculaously missing me!!) eventually pushed us to the Hornet where Chris and Harrison on his first attempt, made short work of of what I had always found a difficult climb. Must have been me then…
Chris, pre washHarrison on the face left of Nicks Niche
Meanwhile Joe and Tom had mooched over to Porthguarnon to something very hard (around E3 I believe), but did return for a quick run on Groucho.
Tom on Groucho
There are two E1’s here at Penberth which I would like to try, so I might pay a mornings vist on the way through on one of our outings and try and get on them.
Figuzzi – HS 4b – Alt Lead Sunset Arete – VS 4c – Lead Simanon Direct – HVS 4c – Lead
Cheesewring quarry has not been the site of many classic days for me. In the main, when I rock up here it turns out to be damp, dank and unpleasant. Thats not to say the venue isnt good, I just dont catch it when its good.
View out of the quarry
Mt expectations for this day were therefore on the low side, so when Dave and I started off on a slightly bold and polished first pitch of Figuzzi I thought ‘Here we go again’. I’m pleased to say I was entirely wrong.
Dave searching for gear where there is none.. Figuzzi
The first pitch delivered better climbing as it progressed. Yes a bit bold, but good moves and position. The second pitch was a classic moving into unlikely territory and gaining in exposure and steepness. The final moves past the overhang were brilliant on big jugs and and with a nice void opening up below.
Dave on Sunset Arete
So, there was only one thing for it. Sunset Arete. Again, looking OK, but delivering much more. This too gets into steep and exciting ground, with some classic reaches and moves and you get onto the steep upper face. Two good un’s down, one to go.
Towards the return traverse on Simanon Direct.
And boy did we save the best for last. Dave’s confidence had been growing as we climbed, so my suggestion of ‘Let’s go and do the really bold HVS around the corner’! was greeted enthusiastically., if a bit nervously. ‘You can do two pitches Dave’ was met with equal joy.
Mantle to the big ledge. Simanon Direct
As it happened it was an epic. The first pitch is harder than it looks, needing some thistle negotiaition and a couple of technical mantleshelves to reach the dubious anchor of ‘the chain’. With a screwgate on this and a dodgy cam in, it was a terrific belay from which to launch an assault on the bold traverse pitch 2. A Crux mantle, followed by smearing out across the ramps (one small nut available) and then traverse back placing loads of crappy cams for mental security. Finally another mantle to the big ledge and a big sigh of relief to replace the nervous giggles.
Daves face said it all as he appeared on the ledge with me. ‘Fuck me!’ was my greeting which I totally understood… Lucky Dave got the final rising flake crack, whicg makes the whole climb really worthwhile. Its just as good as it gets. High, exposed and immaculate moves. Enough to put a smile on the face of two weary climbers at the end of my first proper good session at the ring.
I think I might go back 🙂
Mantle to the big ledge. Simanon Direct
Towards the return traverse on Simanon Direct.
Dave on Sunset Arete
View out of the quarry
Dave searching for gear where there is none.. Figuzzi
Waltzing Matilda – HVS 5b – Alt Lead (Dogged) Mandalay – HVS 5a – Second Anzac Day – E1 5b – Lead Imphal – E2 5c – Second (Dogged)
… is not a question you should be asking any of your friends!! This was the finale to a superb day at Bosi Ridge Area where I managed to put ticks in a load of climbs I had been eyeing up. Not sure where this conversation was going, but I’m glad Nick didnt know the answer to Toms question. 🙂
Ab
Joe, Tom, Nick and I were obviously hungry to get on some good routes and as there was nothing there easier than HVS 5a we had to up our game immediately. Joe and Tom went for the tough corner of Imphal and Nick and I ended up on Waltzing Matilda.
Me on P2 Waltzing Matilda
Wow, what a route. Two amazing pitches. The first with a hard short traverse to the Arete which Nick led with aplomb. Then a long traverse out across the upper wall of Galipolli. I got this one and was shocked at how hard it felt. I was going along great guns when instead of thinking through a section I committed in, and found myself sliding off and ending up down on Kohima. It made for an interesting return to the traverse and I cant say I wasnt disappointed. But more importantly I got to do a fantastic route. I must stop falling off stuff!!
Nick, P2 of Waltzing Matilda
Manadaly was a good ‘get your breath back’ route, although gear is tricky on the crux and its an exposed move on the crux. Nick made short work of it though.
Nick on P2 Anzac Day
So I decided on Anzac Day next. A very patient Nick stood silently while I went through the full range of Freudien self doubt, anxiety, bullishness, indecision, euphoria and any number of other mental states you can think of. Reasonably pathetic and not something I’m used to, but in the end I started again and did it in one. Really pleased I did because this was a terrific climb. Akward in the lower section and then great jug hauling through the overhang.
Joe on Imphal
Meanwhile Joe was leading Galipoli, probably the choice of the crag. I knew he and Tom would like this one, and they did. Both making the hard move onto the face.
Joe on Imphal
Nick was right on his game and I knew he wanted Imphal. It is not an easy climb. Lots of jamming and bridging and some precarious positions. Nick, with his ability to make a T shape seemed to be in balance all the way. I on the other hand was not quite so tuned in, although it was only one small slip that cost me the onsite. It was actually encouraging for me and an excellent tic for Nick. Both Joe and Tom who had been on it earlier, were in my category, although of course Joe had the added complications of leading it.
Dolphinarium and start of Waltzing Matilda
The walk out from sea-level with full packs is not a pleasant one, but when you are buzzing it doesnt really matter. The is the one remaining issue. Who of us will be the first on Dolphinarium, the E1 on the nose. Looks scary hard!
Weasle – VS 4c – Lead Sea Fox – HS 4b – Second Rapido – E1 5a – TR
When you anchor yourself in at the top of a climb the most reassuring aspect is the ‘imouveable’ feeling of the rock around you. There again, you can find yourself in among a heap of large fairly unstable boulders which you can re arrange to construct a sort of bespoke belay. “I think I’ll have a rock here” and “actually that boulder might be better at this angle”.
View back across Carn Barra
The stack above Rapido and Sea Fox was just this kind of jumble. Safe, but slightly disconserting when a 2 ton boulder moves around a bit.
Dave on Weasle
My list above doesnt include two very steep routes which Joe and Tom spent the day on. Mean Street a hard E4 and Sunny Corner Lane and equally hard E3. Probably too much for me and Dave, but after their recent training regime, Tom and Joe tackled them with relish.
The traverse into the Southern Area
Dave and I went exploring down the South end of Carn Barra. I’d always intended to repeat Weasle and the distant memory of exposed commiting moves past the overhung corners soon came flooding back. This really is a totally underated route. For VS it is very good value, probably being nearer 5a and def close to HVS. The excellent pro probably makes it VS but dont let this fool you. It’s still scary…
Top moves of Sea Fox
So returning to the platform we set off on a fun sea level traverse with the small waves washing around our feet. A quick chimney above a rock pool led to a hidden area and Sea Fox. This follows two steep 90 degree corners, needing a fair amount of lay backing and trusting your feet. It is a bit crunchy at the top, but otherwise is a great climb. It probably needs more traffic to tidy it up.
Rapido – Follows the right hand arete
Rapido is a technical E1. Not strenous or pumpy it has a couple of balancey moves around 5a. The reason it is given E1 is because the first pro of any value is at half height and although the flake provides placements I’m not sure I’d trust them. This is why we top roped it! It is one that I know I could lead fairly easily, but its one I never will (because I dont want to die). The slightly unreliable holds adds the final dimension to a good but lethal route.
Carn Barra continues to deliver. Maybe next time I’ll get on Illustrated Man and tick that one. Who knows.
The Beak – E1 5b – Lead (dnf) Times Remembered – HS 4b – Lead
This was well and truly the first proper day of spring. Equinox, Eclipse, New Moon. And mega sunshine.
The conditions transpired to make Porth Loe Buttress appear to be the best venue in Cornwall. There is a stunning backdrop across towards Carn Guthenbras, the sea was an amazing blue and the granite immaculate. Add good friends and it was just perfect.
Descent Gulley
We’d never been here before and yet we’ve walked past it loads. Probably because of the more major attractions of Fox Prom and Carn Bara. The descent is down a narrow steep grassy gully with a cool gearing up ledge. The final section is climbable, but more relaxed on a short abb. The platform at the bottom provides a spectacular location with a few really good clims.
Dave and Chris set off on Eileen and multi pitch severe on the left looking towards the cliff. A bit damp, it nevertheless looked very good and challenging. High in the grade I think.
Tom, Joe and I set up for The Beak which I was lucky (unlucky maybe) enough to get to lead both pitches. The first is some tricky manouvering into a great crack. Layback and commit and you’re OK. The top pitch is mental thuggery. A hard groove leads to a massive overhang Both I and Joe looked at the actul beak, but this seemed really unlikely at 5b, and the description of ‘well protected’ in the guide is a loose one. Yes there is gear in the bottom face of the o/h but once up into the beak there is nothing and you’d take a pretty good lob.
Top pitch of the Beak
I found a flake just left of the beak which seemed more positive and protectable. Good job really because after 15 determined attempts I fell off. Thankfully Tom caught me but it was still freaky and lead to the loss of much skin. I just couldnt do it… not quite strong enough, but very close. I was within a whisker of making it.
Tom suffered from the same problem as me, but Mr Muscles Joe cranked through it remarking that he’d wished he’d ‘warmed up a bit’.
Tom in the tricky flake chimney
Times Remembered is great. The top giant flakes are hard to unlock and pro is sparce, but the climbing is engrossing. More importantly the view across to the couple of idiots on the Eastern Buttress provided grand entertainment. There was a reason the big rock at the base of the climb was wet… it’s called the sea and Chris very nearly became intimate with it on this day. We were having bets on how long they’d last, but to be fare it did look very exciting. Adds a new spice to the climb when there is the chance you could be doing it underwater.
Nearly!!!
So what a day. One of those that will stick for a while and one that just makes you want more and more.
Pink Sea Slab – V Diff – Lead Devils Meridian – E2 5c – TR Dogged Bermuda Wall – E3 5c – TR
The view over Church Cove
One of the things I always like to believe is that I am cautious and careful when it comes to safety when we’re climbing. On a glorious day at Pedn-Men-An-mere I seemed to have a complete aberation of common sense and forget all my own well established safety protocols.
This would account for why Joe landed on his arse when he slid of Bermuda Wall, despite being on a top rope. 8mm rope (which should have been doubled up to compensate for rope stretch; belayer sat down (not the most attentive position); rope hadnt been stretched out off the anchors, so too much slack in the system. A litany of errors.
It is good that it happened on a top rope in a way. Hopefully Joe was just shaken and not damaged. I know it has shaken me up and I need to get back to good ways. There is always a lot of trust to build with your belayer and I need to re establish that.
BOOM!
However, it was also a great days climbing. Joe sent Devils Meridian (I didnt get anywhere near it dogging my way up) but I will hopefully get it next time. Also we both successfully got up Bermuda Wall, via a really tough series of opening moves.
BOOOOMMMM!!!
Devils Meridian has a very hard middle section where foot placement and balance (with a bit of strength) are needed. It has a bit of everything- finger jams, laybacks, pinches and jug hauling. On a lead the hard part would be getting gear in. There is lots, but you have to have a free hand….
Well that wasnt easy was it?
Bermuda Wall is just great, but hard. Joe rekkoned 6a for the lower moves and I wouldnt argue. Tiny crimps and pinches lead to some crazy underclings. Then a massive reach and finally a tough traverse. What more could you ask for.
Exposed on the top of PSS
Pink Sea Slab is not V Diff. I repeat ‘Not V Diff’. Its a great climb with some good slab moves and a wild finish, but pro is insecure and the final haul over a bulge is more in keeping with VS. It also needs good ropework and a careful eye on some decidedly dogey rock. I’m not selling it am I? It is well worthwhile though with loads of exposure and some great positions. Just not V Diff.
View over to Pink Sea Slab. Its the black slabby areas.
The new Nikon performed well though. Lots of good photos to add to the collection. Its so cool living in Cornwall 🙂
Well that wasnt easy was it?
After the hard moves on the lower part of Bemuda Wall
RedFish is out of the question I presume??
BOOOOMMMM!!!
BOOM!
Right Hander
Boom!
View over to Pink Sea Slab. Its the black slabby areas.
I soooo wanted to lead ‘Just Good Friends’ but after a quick top rope practice and still struggling mentally to make the move onto the flake it looked no closer.
The problem for meis that its a good 12 ft up and if you blow the move its an awkward fall (onto mats admittedly) which is likely to do my knee in. There is no pro to be had at the flake, at least none you’d want to trust.
After deciding I would never lead it, much to Dave and Tom’s amusement, I realised I could with a bit of leverage off the flake get a cam into the break. That was it then. Straight onto the lead and finished on the E1 now HVS finish.
I dont undertsand this actually. The hardest move is the lower one which gets 5a and yet the top finish is HVS 5b, with a well protected and reasonable move. I think the lower move is 5b and both variations could be given HVS 5b.
We mozied over to the next buttress, but by then conditions were cold and windy and the sun was gone. Tom though managed to clean a 6a boulder problem. Very awkward and requiring lots of power and commitment. Good on him.
I think Trewortha is going to be a regular evening haunt for us during the summer. Lots more to do and loads of bouldering to fail on…
Any excuse to return to Balck Head is a good one, although I think Joe may have had his doubts this time.
Ian on Archangel
My assurance that ‘Balck Head will be sheltered. Dont worry’ was misguided to say the least. The Wind is from the South West. I though you said North West I lied. I just got it wrong really.
Tom mid crux on Archangel
But, and its a lucky but, when we got down to the water shoot gulley it wasnt too bad. While Joe set up a top rope, Tom and I did Archangel. It looks deceptively easy from the bottom, but has a tricky crux and a boldish top out becasue of the fragile rock up there. This was the second time I’d led it and it was just as much fun. It really is a tremendous crack/corner climb. Safe but hard enough to add spice.
The steep Rebel Yell
Rebel yell was a lot more difficult. There appears to be more pro than the guide boook suggests and although strenuous, it is manageable. I will be back to lead this, hopefully this summer. It has small holds and vanishing foot placements which bizarrely are there for your hands and disappear for your feet. Very weird.
Looking for foot placements
The tide eventually chased us off, starting to shoot up the gulley with alarmingly increasing force. So we returned the long route back to the car at Treleaver Farm (because the fu!#ing farmer has shut the permissive footpath on the grounds of a bull – 6 months ago. Tosser) satisfied with a couple of good climbs. I’ll be back in the good weather for another climb and a swim.
The Drum – HVS 5b – Lead (dnf) then TR Grindeer – E2 5B – TR Drifters – E1 5c – Retrieve gear (and some sneaky practicing)
We made this day a real cack handed ordeal. One we should have driven to Lands End and not walked all the way from Porthgwarra and two, we should have recognised a series of sandbags when we arrived!
Cool lefty
It was though a terrific day, with lots of hard climbing and some really challenging routes. I started the day trying to lead The Drum. An excellent HVS running up a crack line on the left of the main face. From the ground it looks innocuous and well protected. It’s neither.
Carn Boel from the South
I havnt felt so pumped for ages. A proper test of my ability to keep hanging on. Placing gear was strenuous, climbing was strenuous, staying still was strenuous (you get the idea). I felt like Popeye by time I eventually succumbed and slumped into my gear. It was all a matter of mental state.
Tom on the crux of the Drum
By time I reached the crux I was pumped and couldnt find any gear. I knew in my mind that once I committed there was no going back and it looked poor for gear. This was actually an accurate forecast as it was. For HVS it is remarkably bold. I think it would be E1 in most peoples books. Definitely 5b though.
Pulling onto the main slab
So all pumped up I tried again on the top rope and this time went straight through. Of course without having to place gear. One I will try again maybe later in the season.
Joe on Grindeer
Meanwhile Joe was having his own epic on Drifters. Another one where gear is hard to come by and the climbing suprisingly dificult. It did for Joe on this occasion (unusually), but I expect he will be back shortly to tame it.
The tricky moves onto the main wall
We all (Tom, Dave, Joe and I) had a go on the E2, which actually proved to be OK. Tough again with some amazing moves into the vertical crack, but manageable.
Me on Grindeer
This spot is great for a winters days climbing. Above the sea, sheltered with great views. We were lucky to get this on this day as the weather came in with a vengance on the walk back.
Shame Dave and Tom chose to take the long walk to the car. Pay attention!!!!
Gelert – HS 4b – Lead Pudsey – VS 4c – Second Wasp Pant Terror – HVS 4c – Lead Cro Magnon Man – E2 5b/5c – TR Dogged
With the cold snap continuing we knew we needed somewhere out of the wind and preferably in the sun. Favorable tides also meant we could explore some of the less well known venues around Porthgwarra which would be on the lee side.
I keep walking past these locations thinking that ‘one day I’ll check them out’. On this occasion, armed with some exploration knowledge we picked up last time we went to Carn Barra, we dropped down to Black Carn North.
Chris on his way on Gelert
Its a tricky descent at first crossing some pretty loose ground and a gulley which is steep. Once onto the seaward rocks its OK though. If you go, drop down before the obvious wall and keep to the right of the gulley. Then follow rocks down and around to the right facing out to sea. You’ll eventually get there.
Very cool shot
The obvious attractive line on this small but friendly crag is Pudsey. An angled line across the face below Cro Magnon the elephant in the room. As it happens its not the best despite appearances. My favorite on the day was Gelert. Great moves for HS and a good thoughtful move into the upper crack.
Chris not suffering from Wasp Pant Terror.
Pudsey is all about a couple of moves fairly low down, although it looks harder. Chris made short work of it. Good, but no cigar. The weird looking and sounding Wasp Pant Terror proved quite good with a couple of great mantleshelves and a final bold series of moves to the top. I really enjoyed it. Not strenuous, but quite technical.
I’m sure I know what this is for????
Of course Joe had his eye on the main obstacle on the crag Cro Magnon Man. I can see why they call it this. The top has an uncanny prehistoric look to it. The moves though are great. Crimpy and thin on the lower face, it finishes with slopers which are just waiting for the unwary. I of course was one of the unwary’s. I thought I had it but as I barn doored off I realised it needed a bit more thought. Second attempt I unlocked it using a finger jam to keep my balance. Not one for the tall as you get compressed into a ball! Fun though.
Precariou. Joe on the pinnacle
This is a crag to come back to next winter when we’re looking for a sheltered spot. I’m sure there are more routes to find here so I might do a bit more exploring next time I’m over there and cant climb because of conditions.
On the pinnacle
Precariou. Joe on the pinnacle
De Rigging the top rope belay.
TR on Cro Magnon
Chris on his way on Gelert
Sunny days!!
The Cro Magnon buttress
Chris not suffering from Wasp Pant Terror.
All this gear and no idea.
Nice hat. Not pink!
I’m sure I know what this is for????
Very cool shot
Why it never rains on a Friday!
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