Category Archives: Climbing

Lets start as we mean to finish

June 6, 2013 dillwat Leave a comment

6th June

Calames – Ariege

Les Instantfataux – 5+ – Lead
Blues pour un chat noir – 5+ – Lead
Les Herbes Amieres – 5+ – Second
La Nauc – 6a – Lead (dogged)

We lucked into a quiet campsite in a little village called Aston,; in fact we were the first ‘campers’ of the season which entitled us to a free night and choice of any pitch on the site. Tucked away in a narrow valley it sits next to a fast flowing (very at this time due to snow melt) river, the roar of which keeps you constant company but doesnt detract from a good nights sleep.

We woke up on our first morning raring to go, so it was into the hired ‘Cashcow’ and off for a morning coffee in Tarascon. This leisurely approach meant we managed to arrive at the crag as the sun started beating down, a lesson quickly learned which we proceeded to ignore for most of our ventures to the crags. We were just not early risers.

The sunny weather by all accounts was unusual for 2013. Up to this point the weather in Ariege had been poor so it seemed a good omen. One of the most notable crags in Ariege is Calames. You can see it clearly from Tarascon and the number of different sectors makes it an obvious choice for an opening venue. Tom, Chris and I are used to some arduous walk ins. Cornwall has plenty of them, but with the heat the walk up through Bedeilhac and across the ridge felt tough.

As is often the case, finding your bearings is difficult, but we rocked up to Sector Le Papy without too many wrong turns. What I like about French Sport crags is that they write the name of the crag on the rock! How cool is that. It didnt seem to help us though as I picked out a three star 5 called Theiere de jardin and proceeded to immediately go off route and climb its neighbour Les Instantfataux which was a 5+.

This is something to bear in mind. The routes are tightly packed. Unlike the routes we are used to in Cornwall where an obvious line is picked (which could meander around a bit) the limestone routes sometimes just go straight up. Looking for a line is likely to take you off route on many pitches. Just follow the bolts. It makes for some different climbing as it pushes you through territory you might not naturally take on. At the same time it tends to make the climbs more difficult and sometimes a bit weird. By the time I left Ariege I was loving it, but to start with it feels a bit ‘false’.

So to the climbing. My first route, Les Instantfataux turned out to be a cracker. Both Chris and I led this one. I soon discovered that many limestone routes are about small crimpy holds and delicate footwork. I needed to trust my feet and work through some of the tricky technical sections. To be honest, on this first day I was struggling to be confident in my footwork, but this soon evapourated as I got a few routes under my belt.

Chris on the headwall of Blues pour un chat noir 5+

‘Blues’ turned out to be significantly harder, making me realise that there are 5+’s and 5+’s. Similar for the most part to LI, the headwall provides some hard technical climbing. It was around this point that I started to realise that my earlier view that 5+ equated to around VS 4c back home was seriously flawed. It seems that a 5+ tends to equate to 5b back home putting it nearer E1 at times, but obviously with bolts.

Tom on the first overhang of Les Herbes Ameres 5+

This of course is where the idea of comparing grades falls down. You can only really compare the technical grade for the most part. While I climb hard on trad routes, I definitely on the whole dont climb as hard as I had to on the sports stuff. This was a refreshing change, although it took me until almost the last day to switch off my trad head (with the little voice saying “dont fall, dont fall”).

Chris made a good job of the first pitch of Les Herbes Ameres, a tough 5+, before we decided to look at a 6a called Le Nauc. This is all about one sequence through a bulgy section and my head let me down big time. Daft thing is its well protected as the bolt is in exactly the right place (unlike some routes we did later on). Still a valuable lesson learned. Go for it…

The trudge back was made sweater when we stopped off in Tarascon for a Beer at Le Hotel Confort, a residence clearly aimed at the touring biker, but which served up ice cold Leffe beer overlooking the river.

Leffe time in Tarascon. Calames is the smaller outcrop dead center of the picture.

Back at the campsite, we commandeered the barbeque hut for our private kitchen/diner, a luxury we retained for the duration of out stay in Tarascon and had our first helping of Tuna Something. A very tasty dish which hit the spot, but the recepe for which is a closely guarded secret only known to Chris.

Starting to get very hot. Les Instantfataux

Chris taking abreather on Les Instantfataux

The campsite is tucked away in the valley.

Climbing, Walking

Rise of the Super Foreigners

June 5, 2013 dillwat Leave a comment

France and Spain 2013

5th June – 16th June
Ariege and Ordesa

Take three Brits with minimal language skills, no experience of Sports Climbing and little idea of how to pack a rucksack so that it weighs 20 kilo’s and you’ve got the makings of a great trip.

This was our first great adventure into the world of alpinism (not really but it sounds good) and climbing on bolts; and we demonstrated considerable naivity to back this fact up. The comments of “its only 6b+” and of course we can do 16 pitches in a day” evaporated after our first single pitch route. This though didnt detract from what was a brilliant trip which taught us a lot about limestone crags, French curry powder and mountain weather.

Climbing

Just let it go……… FAT CHANCE!!!

May 24, 2013 dillwat Leave a comment

24th May 2013

Pedn-men-an-mere

Zip – VS 4c – Lead
Panos – HS 4b – Second
Bandwagon – E1 5b – Lead
Midnight Express – E1 5b – Lead (dog)

A brilliant day marred by my nemesis which as usual bit me on the arse.

Sheltered from the wing St Levans Wall was the perfect venue. With a good low tide we had plenty of time to play on the climbs on the lower tier as well.

To start though I had a go at Zip a VS with a tough start. I keep forgetting that VS are not there to warm up on and this one as usual reminded me of that as I struggled up the initial crack to be halted at a slightly bold mantleshelf. I actually enjoyed it though, the same of which can be said for Chris.

He started on Panos, an HS with a bite. The opening V goove isnt easy but the top move onto the pillar is made spicy if you stay right which seems to take you away from anything useful to pull over on. Tom and Dave intelligently went left which seemed a far more amenable finish. Still, one to get the heart going.

Bandwagon looks good from below and it didn’t disappoint. Good delicate climbing which requires good footwork and a steady head through the crux. Just our type of route really and we both loved it.

And so to the finale. What could go wrong after such a good start. Midnight Express beckoned me, and proceeded to teach me a lesson in humility and trash my bank account at the same time as 5 of my Nuts cascaded into the deep water filled trough below. Thats my third attempt. Its got to be fourth time lucky?

Still, it didnt detract from a great day out although it took a little while for the red mist to clear. One to get on again soon methinks.

Chris clearly enjoying himself on Bandwagon E1 5b

Climbing

REBORN!

May 18, 2013 dillwat Leave a comment

18th May 2013

Pen Olver – (The Lizard)

Songs from a Gentle Man – VS 4c – Lead
The Peoples Queen – VS 4c – Lead
Dolphin Surprise – HS 4b – Lead
Songs from a Broken Heart – VS 4c – Lead
The Womb Tomb – Severe – Second

Despite our round about route to The Lizard via St Erth (caused by our usual indecision) this turned out to be a good choice. 2013 is going to be the year of the never ending winter. Lots of sun on this day, but accompanied by a cold North Westerly which we were fortunate to be sheltered from.

We managed quite a few climbs on this day. With all the routes being single pitch and access very easy we were up and down all day. Dave and I kicked off on a cracker called Songs from a Gentle Man, a route which follows an exposed arete. It looks bold at first but there’s gear where you need it. The rock is fragile in places, but you dont need to haul on it. Use your feet well and it feels secure. I thought it was great, one of the best at this venue.

Meanwhile Tom was leading the tricky Vumba, which has some good moves in its final section. Dave set off on Peoples Queen, which is hard VS. The difficulties are short lived, but the main groove pushes you out and if you get your shape wrong its tough.

Pete exiting the difficult groove of Peoples Queen.

My attempt on Dolphin Surprise was delayed whilst I tried to work out the opening moves. Considering this was graded HS 4b it was the hardest move I did all day. It’s a real pumpy pull up to the first ledge using a less than perfect hold. Once past this the rest of the climb is straight forward, but its a shock to the system.

The view from the start of Womb Tomb. Tom about to head off.

The four of us left the best till last. The Womb Tomb is brilliant. You get to the start through a narrow gash in the rock which brings you into a dark almost enclosed chimney which widens as it rises. Climb this on surprisingly grippy rock until you break out into the sunrise with a wide bridging move.

A bold step across lets you exit onto the seaward side of the pinnacle on the right (facing landwards). A climb that is guaranteed to put a smile on your face.

Dave having emerged from the cave of Womb Tomb.

Climbing

I cant believe it’s not butter

May 17, 2013 dillwat Leave a comment

17th May 2013

The Horse (The Lizard)
Tie That Critta Down – VS 4c – Alt lead

A day for some exploration and a day where location was all important. We spent much of the day watching huge cumulonimbus forming over central Cornwall and unloading their payload.

However the Predannack area missed it all and was in beautiful sunshine for most of the day. More importantly we had planned it that way so boy were we smug!

The Horse, a remote venue is not just round the corner from the Predanack Farm parking as Chris and I had assumed. It’s actually a good 30-40 minutes walking, snaking along the coast path providing one stunning vista after another. On a sunny day with no wind and calm seas, this coast becomes magical. If the water temperature was higher for longer I dont think there would be anywhere better in the world. It’s a real privelege to be able to call this your backyard and take advantage of it so often. It’s why I stayed in Cornwall.

There is a remarkable ridge feature on the walk in. A sort of mini Commando Ridge, but somewhat less stable I think. It does look like a classic though and Chris and I have marked it for an early return this year. There could be some issues getting down to it but it looks a proper adventure.

The Horse is a startling promontory with a long access ridge finishing in a rounded pinnacle. The guide is not that clear on how to find the climbs and we spent a good amount of time getting our bearings. Basically, from the top point on the promontory, the routes are down to your right looking out to sea. Scramble down the broken and somewhat grassy slope as though you were heading towards Carn Vellan. Its a bit dodgy here. We used an ab rope for assistance but you could just scramble it. You eventually get to a sloping yellow ramp. Ab off left and it takes you down to the sea level ledges.

The coating of yellow moss adds another dimension; catch it wrong and you find youself starting to slide. At times it feels like you’re walking on butter! On the other hand it turns the cliffs into ‘Monet’ like paintings with the amazing yellows it produces.

Be warned if you anchor the rope at the top of the main promontory you intend to use it for the final ab you have about a foot of spare rope on a 50m so put a knot in it! Also it only gets you to the higher ledges; a 60m will get you to the bottom ledges.

Even when we got down there the routes are not obvious. They should be cos theres a striking crack and niche which is part of TTCD. We couldnt track down Queen of May at first and even later I’m not sure we got it right. We’ll need to come back and spend more time checking it out.

TTCD though was worthwhile. A tough and strenuous first pitch was tackled by Chris. It looks easier than it is (I’ve heard that a few times before). A tricky move gains the niche and exposed bridging gets you to the ledge. The rock I think is serpentine like, with a purple tinge to it. Not quite granite, but solid nevertheless. The top pitch is more broken- Chris described it as prehistoric which seems apt as it looks ‘old’.

Pitch two takes on the more suspect rock higher on the crag. Traverse right and move through jenga territory it some pretty exposed positions. Great climbing but the fact I pulled a fist sized lump of rock off tells it all.

A great day out and like old times for me and Chris. This is a ‘must return’ venue with loads more potential. and anyway the walk in is worth it in its own right,

Chris after the tough opening moves on Tie That Critta Down

Stunning Cornwall – wish the sea was warmer!

Climbing

Ian and Pete’s alternative start to Commando Ridge

May 7, 2013 dillwat Leave a comment

7th May 2013

Bosigran Ridge Area

Gallipoli – E1 5c – Lead
Commando Ridge – HVS 5a Variation – Lead

An early finish from work was the call, especially with the news bleating on about a change in weather. A rain front was due around 6pm so we thought we could grab a few hours before it arrived.

The last time we came to this area we got caught out by rain so this time it was a pronto decent to the bottom platform. Gallipoli caught my eye a while back. A fantastic line up immaculate granite. It’s given 5c in the guide, but from the bottom doesnt look too bad.

Looks can be deceptive though and I was soon taught a lesson in how to miss-read a crux from below. Pete, diligent as always witnessed me try a number of different variations to nail the crux, before I realised it was a case of ‘manning up’ and going for it. I made it, but I cant say I felt secure. Once committed the holds become apparent but they are not helpful as a whole.

I’ve not done a lot of 5c moves and this felt significantly harder than the 5b’s I’d done recently. It gives me confidence for having a go at some of the E2’s in this range though.

Pete declined Gallipoli but we spotted a slightly different line following a crack which finishes in the niche at the top of Pitch 2 of commando ridge. Not in the guide I would guess it to be in the HVS 5a region. Strenuous and sustained but with good pro. The two Herring Gulls guarding their nest looked on in amusement and a bit of angst as Pete and I struggled up and traverse around into the niche. (we kept well clear of them and their eggs)

Once on the ridge we thought it would be churlish not to tackle the big fin. This is probably the best pitch on the ridge and I didnt want to rob Pete of the chance of standing on the pinnacle which he did in good style.

We abandoned the ridge with grey clouds building all around us. Perfect timing and back in time for tea this time. Next up….. Lands End me thinks.

Pete just before stepping up on the pinnacle

Climbing

Stars in our eyes

May 6, 2013 dillwat Leave a comment

6th May 2013

Pentire Point

Twilight – HS 4b – Second
Our Stars, Our Sky – VS 4c – Second

I wasnt sure that I would make this session, as it had been a hectic weekend, but with the sun out and a calm windless evening in prospect, it was too good to resist.

Chris arriving at the ramp after Pitch 1 OSOS

As it happened I arrived at just the right time. Dave had led Twilight and I grabbed a rope and seconded up after him. It’s a good climb too with a good move up into the crack/niche. Just the right antidote to get us all looking for more.

Given the conditions I couldnt help thinking that OSOS would be a good bet. The problem was getting four of us across the traverse was going to take time, but the sun would last.

Chris and Tom checking out the traverse... "what across there!" — Chris and Tom checking out the traverse… “what across there!”

After a guarantee of adventure to the others we set off to find the not so obvious abseil. With a good sized swell washing up the runnel, traversing into the base was also exciting. Came within a few inches of catching me out.

On this occasion the bottom pitch was a lot drier and was a good climb. The move around the nose requires a bit of thought, but to be honest it’s all about pitch 2 which Dave led. Probably a step up in the whole exposure/technical difficulty area for him but he seemed to breeze through it. There is a runout after the initial start for about 12 ft or so which adds spice, but the pro is so bomber and the drop so steep that it is a safe VS. Having said that its not an easy one and you need to factor in the exposure and feeling of being ‘out there’ the the route radiates.

Relief to have made it before the dark sets in.

Chris and Tom paired up as a second team and followed us across, meaning we finished in the gloom, but with a beautiful sky as the back drop. Not many other places I would rather have been on a day like this.

Tom tops out on Or Stars Our Sky in the gloom

Climbing

Indian Spring

April 30, 2013 dillwat Leave a comment

30th April 2013

Carn Gowla
Indian Buttress

Touch the Earth – VS 4b – Lead

The first evening session of 2013 saw us explore a new buttress at Carn Gowla. Indian Buttress is the furthest south of the major Gowla venues, but offers some great climbing.

Finding your bearings is a touch difficult though as we discovered. We abbed in down the obvious V groove in the west face but the descriptions in the guide are not easy to follow. It refers to a sea level ledge but to be fair the main ledge is well above sea level.

Still once we did establish things the climbs proved worthwhile (at least for me as I am a Gowla apologist unlike my compadre’s). I find the climbing here enthralling. Yes the rock can be suspect (like biscuit or razorblades depending what bit your on) and the pro barely adequate at times; it’s sharp, forbidding and exposed and belays are a nightmare; most climbs involve abbing in and the sea slamming into the cliffs offers a further dimension. For me this adds up to excitement and of all the venues we climb at, Gowla is the most adventurous. Clearly my colleagues dont see it that way as the evening was punctuated with curses and threats to never return.

Touch the Earth is deceptive. From below it is innocuous, but once you step out onto the face it brims with exposure and the holds are positive and solid. The finale is a steep slab where pro becomes less obvious but holds get better. Not sure it is VS; the lack of pro in the upper section may be why this grade is proposed, but Joeand I agreed it is well worth the two stars it gets in the guide.

Meanwhile Chris led Red Cloud a severe following an obvious crack to the right of the decent slab. This looked ood but I was advised is very sharp. Tom managed to break a few foot placements so maybe the grade will get harder the more it is climbed. I intend to try this one the next time out.

I now have my eye on some routes on the Sewerage Wall area, but it looks like I may have to rely on Pete for company on my next visit unless I want a mutiny.

Climbing

All hail breaks loose!

April 26, 2013 dillwat Leave a comment

Chair Ladder

26th April 2013

Red Wall – Severe 4b – Alt Lead
Bishops Rib – E1 5b – Alt Lead
Porthgwarra Chimney – Severe 4a – Lead

A welcome return to Chair Ladder was the order of the day. A first for Tom and Dave, and the first time for Joe and me since we tackled South Face Direct.

Of course Chair Ladder at this time of year can be problematic cos of the gulls and fulmars nesting. But as long as you pick the right routes you are OK. Which was why Joe and I went for Red Wall which turned out to be a bird toilet.

Joe using bird poo for holds! It really stinks.

Good climbing is marred by a disgusting stench and holds covered in poo. Our fault really, because we knew the climbs either side were notorious for this. It would be good to come back and try it again in the Autumn maybe.

Dave and Tom meanwhile were on Terriers Tooth a must when you first go to Chair Ladder. Not the hardest climb but one which takes some thought both ascending and descending. In fact the descent can be more dramatic than the climb if you get it wrong.

Dramatic climbing on the final pitch of Terriers Tooth. Dave leading.

Dave and Tom were on the top pitch when Joe and I returned so we shot off to have a go on Bishops Rib. This had been a long time ambition for me. I never really had the confidence but on this day I was ready and set off on the delicate first pitch. Small foot placements and crimps need a steady lead. Once at the overhang there is plenty of pro and I moved as fast as I could through it. Luckily it all came together nicely and next minute I was at the belay ledge having completed one of the best pitches I’ve ever done.

Happy Ian after the amazing P1 of Bishops Rib

Joe got P2 which is equally as good and very steep. Tricky moves to a break at an overhang lead into a final crack which has huge holds and huge exposure in equal amounts. For both of us this was a benchmark and a great tick on what is one of Cornwalls classic E1’s. Pat on the back all round then.

The move up to the left leading crack on the brilliant P2 of Bishops Rib

With the tide pushing we moved into the more sheltered Porthgwarra home of a number of good climbs. The hail which accompanied Daves finish to Shawangunk was a highlight as he suffered plenty of banter just as he was taking on the difficult crux of the VS variation. Tom and I got on Porthgwarra Chimney which I think is a sandbag at Severe. But on UKC this doesnt seem to be reflected in the comments. Pro is sparce in the early part of the chimney but it improves although the climbing remains tricky throughout. A really good climb actually, but more towards HS 4b in my opinion.

Dave and Tom with Terriers Tooth behind them

A very tired group headed home with some memorable climbing in their wake.

Joshua Tree – E2 5c and a project for later in the year

The final pitch of Red Wall. The white is bird poo.

Climbing

Dont forget your vitamin supplements

April 19, 2013 dillwat Leave a comment

Chudleigh Rocks

19th April 2013

Great Western – VS 5a – Alt Lead
The Slot – HVS 5a – Lead
Sarcophagus – VS 4b – Alt Lead

At last we have the first proper summer day. Chudleigh delivered on the sunshine and the fun and gave our wintery white pasty bodies a treat of Vitamin D and a boost of energy.

After a number of alternative locations had been considered we chose Chudleigh and as it turned out it was the right place to be. Sometimes Chudleigh suffers from seepage, but the rain had kept off the limestone for a few days and it was in perfect condition.

Nick and I started off on Great Western, a VS which weaves its way up the most southerly face. Its brilliant and Nick was considerate enough to let me link pitches 2 & 3 together so I got to tackle the testing overhang on P3. P1 is no push over though. A delicate traverse up to the belay which is capped off by a tricky mantle which Nick cruised through.

I was not quite so smooth on the overhang. Dithering over a micro which I eventually backed up by clipping the peg (should’ve done that in the first place). Its a great move though and once I got going it was fine.

Meanwhile Tom and Pete were working their way up the glassy Barn Owl Crack which I gather is not so enjoyable. However they made up for it with ascents of Salome and the inappropriately named Wogs, both of which were very good. Considering it was their first time on Limestone, they both seemed to take to it well. Limestone is very different from Granite and Chudleigh acts the additional dimention of ‘polish’ which can make even the easiest climb seem treacherous.

Dave on the exposed top pitch of Never on a Sunday

Dave and Chris started on an HS called Never on a Sunday. This takes a striking line up the face with the final pitch being very photogenic. By all accounts the exposure on this pitch is equally dramatic. And then of course Inkerman Groove, a must. Both Chris and Dave were raving by the end; quite understandably because it is an outstanding climb with one of the most memorable traverses you’ll find.

Top pitch of Never on a Sunday a tough HS

For me, climb 2 was The Slot. Nicks smile should have given away what the Slot would deliver. My smile was firmly absent whilst I tried to work out how to move up into ‘the slot’. Having got there things didnt get easier. The main crack is seriously hard work, but the higher you go the less strenuous it becomes. I was really pleased to get this one as it was a tough.

The best though was saved till last. Sarcophagus is a fantastic journey up a corner with truly three dimensional climbing. According to all that you read it is a nightmare of polish but this is only part of the story. Yes the opening moves are tense and Nick had to take care with pro and the moves over very polished foot placements. But once past this you get so absorbed in the climbing through grooves and overhangs that both of us agreed you become oblivious to any wear. I thought it was engrossing and in the end over too quickly. Even the top pitch (Nick ran the bottom two together which made a lot of sense) finishes off the climb nicely leaving lts of smiles.

A pint of local ale on the way back topped off a great day out although probably we would have been wiser to drink water not alcohol. But where’s the fun in that!