Category Archives: Climbing

Climbing

Sea Breeze

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25th May 2012

Pen Olver

Blind Pew – V Diff – Second
Great Slanting – V Diff – Second
Bilsons Foul Play – V Diff – Second
Mule – HVS 5a – Lead

Probably the trickiest part of climbing at Pen Olver is finding your way there and down to the base of the crag. If you approach past the Housel Bay Hotel its not obvious where the climbing is. The best bet is to head for the end of the headland and when you are about 100yards away head down to the edge on what is a small rocky outcrop.

Pen Olver in all its glory.

This soon turns into a more substantial piece of rock and unlikely as it seems at the time if you keep heading down you eventually reach the top of a narrow and exposed descent ramp. Good luck in finding it, but ultimately it is worth it.

The weather being what it is in Cornwall decided to go from cool to baking overnight which meant we were scratching our heads thinking of a venue which wasnt going to overheat. Pen Olver matched up nicely.

Why me? I could be at home working, but no, you make me come climbing.....

Its a great venue and we spent the day on the main ledge giving access to the Pen Olver Slab and the climbs on the Western sector. With Tom and Dave eager to get some more leading in we started on Great Slanting, a tremendous climb with a really open finish. Described as steady, this is a good description requiring Dave to work hard for pro. Probably the most technical of the V Diffs we climbed this day.

Dave on the early stages of Great Slanting
Dave high on Great Slanting

Tom moved onto Blind Pew which carves a way straight up the middle of the slab. This one saves its crux for the last third with some exposed climbing on a vertical niche. The pro too gets harder to place the higher you get. Its a great line and deserves stars.

Tom moving up Blind Pew.
Tom on the crux of Blind Pew

I had been eyeing up ‘Mule’ an HVS between the two. This turned out to have a well protected, but pumpy start and a poorly protected but technical finish. A bit of everything really which made it really enjoyable. I was quite suprised at how good it was, so finished it with a big smile.

Dave on the top and poorly protected slab of Mule

Last of all was Bilsons Foul Play. As the tide had swamped the main platform, this was an obvious choice. A good climb, steep and following a distinct chimney, but probably not as good as the two main face climbs.

Dave leading Bilson's Foul Play

Still, you cant complain when you’ve had sunshine and fantastics views all day and the climbing has matched up. A brilliant day out in a beautiful part of Cornwall.

 

 

Climbing

True Grip

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22nd May 2012

Roche Rock

Swink Chimney – VS 4c – Lead
Lord Falmouth – E1 5b – Lead

Our regular Tuesday evening focused on Roche Rock and a number of great climbs on the South and South West face.

Chris and Tom got stuck into Porkys, whilst Dave and I set about having a minor epic on Swink Chimney. Described as VS the bottom part of the pitch seems overly easy, with just a short strenuous pull into the initial crack. But the suprise is in the top section. From below this looks fairly innocuous, but up close it overhangs and isnt the easiest crack to get established in.

After a while of trying to figure out the easy way to do it, I decided there wasnt one and just launched up into it.  It remains strenuous, but the holds improve with height to an airy top out. Better than I thought it was going to be to be honest.

The end of the session was a suprise. Both Chris and I took on Lord Falmouth, the E1. To be fair it is given E1 because of the relativelt unprotected slab at the start. However there is a micro placement fairly high up and an agile belayer would ensure you didnt deck. The fantastically grippy Roche ‘rock’ came to our aid and Chris and I made short work of the slab. Most importantly this was Chris’ first E1 and a real landmark, so we all left on a high.

Climbing

Sugar Rush (ish)

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19th May 2012
Sennen

Zig Zag – HVS 5a – Lead
Dextrose – HVS 5a – Second

Meeting up with Nick later in the day seemed to suggest that we would be struggling for time, particularly as we both had arrangements for later on. However being Sennen and only single pitches we bagged two classic HVS’s.

We also met up with Rowena and James who were just finishing off Demo Route. It was watching them that drew my attention to Zig Zag a route I had long admired. Its a truly striking lightning slash down the wall at the north end of the crag. Watching another climber wrestling with the succession of niches and cracks gave me a hint of what was to come, although once on the climb I got a full on sweat on.

Nick’s monster cam came in very handy in protecting what was the crux move. This is an akward move, one that felt as though I could be off at any moment. Instead of jamming I went for the layback which is what probably made it feel more precarious. By time I topped out I was fairly pumped but chuffed to bits that I’d made it. Nick was also chuffed I made it as he avoided a soaking from the fast rising tide which had tried to get him earlier on.

Then it was across to the Southern side of the crack and Dextrose. I’d had a go at Dexter a while back but was defeated by the cold. No problem with that this time, but Dextrose turned out to be a cracker. Its a weird climb really, not taking the obvious line, but taking a loop across the face and finally approaching from the other direction. It’ sthis that makes it so good.

It’s hard too. I wouldnt have had a problem with giving it E1. The stretch across the face is made more airy because you have to move up when really all you want to do is go sideways. The rounded groove is also tough and this is capped off by gear which you have to work hard to place. A good lead from Nick and imo one of the Classic routes at Sennen.

The final move over the top provides a suitable sting in the tail as well. The rock though is superb. All in all great fun and one I may try leading in the future.

Climbing

The Guano Glacier

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18th May 2012
Fox Promontory

Reveille – HS 4b – Second
The Muzzle – HVS 4c – Lead

I dont know how many times I looked at the photo of The Muzzle in the Rockfax guide and thought that I’d like to try it.

Looking back up the promontory

So with cracking weather and the right tide plus no swell, the opportunity presented itself. Chris, Tom and Dave accompanied me on what was my first visit to the crag. I’ve walked past it plenty of times and it always looked spectacular. The north face is dark, but once you’re down there it looses some of it’s menace. The lines are obvious and there are plenty of the them.

Dave and Tom on Vixens Crack
Belay at the top of Vixen's Crack

With Tom and Dave getting on the steep and exposed Vixen’s Crack, Chris and I set up for Reveille. This climb rises leftwards across the main face to finish up a steep narrow slab next to a crack.  There are a couple of tricky sections; the start is quite bold and needs thought on protection and then comes the best part, a very balancy traverse at about mid height. It’s great, but you need to keep your nerve when there are few holds. Brilliant fun and a top climb.

Chris just after the tricky traverse on Reveille

Unfortunately the tide pushed up fairly quickly so we had to abandon the attempt on The Curtain Raiser, what looked like a top route following a vein of crystals. So it was onto the nose to have a go at the two classic routes there. Or so we thought.

Ian at the base of The Mussle

There was one fly in the ointment. The Whisker, the VS on the right of the promontory facing in, turned out to be in the hands of the guls and cormorants. The slab round the arete looking like a snow field with the amount of guano on it.

Chris and Dave after completing The Mussle

So we all had a go at the Muzzle with Chris clocking up his second HVS lead. The Muzzle is as good as it looks. The crack is strenuous but has positive holds and plenty of pro. The move out under the overhang is a bit more scary. It’s a case of move out and keep going into open fresh air. The holds are there but you have to look and keeping your feet on the rock is interesting. At one point I managed to leaver off my only grip just snatching another hold before I did some air time.

Chris finishing off The Mussle

The day added up to another brilliant adventure on Cornish Rock, with Dave and Tom recording another route together. We spent a while snoozing in the sunshine before sauntering off back to the van. We will be back at FP shortly I am sure.

Chilling after tide finished our session at Fox Promontory

 

 

 

Climbing

A chorus of approval

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13th May 2012

Bosigran

Anvil Chorus – VS 4c – Alt Lead
Alison Rib – Diff – Second

It was so bloody cold when we arrived. Dark and windy and not inviting at all. Bosigran had seemed the best shout for this day but it didnt look that way at first.

Belay view from P3 Anvil Chorus

Pete had brought along his new rack and I was giving Anvil Chorus the once over. With the corner of Ac looking like it might be the most sheltered spot we went for this first. I had always wanted to lead the third corner pitch ever since seconding it with Nick so this gave me the opportunity.

Pete on the first pitch of Anvil Chorus

It’s easy to forget how good a climb is until you get back on it. AC is not just about one pitch, although the 3rd is the most spectacular. All four have something to offer. Pitch one, two short slabs, can be tricky but it got me nicely warmed up.

Pitch 2 Anvil Chorus

Pitch two passes an overhang with a very airy move, requiring Chris to step out onto a poorly protected arete and a final push onto a large slab. By this point the sun was out and Bosi had transformed into acres of warm granite taking the chill off the day. So the corner pitch was done in sunshine, making the crack a lot more amenable. It’s strenuous in places but well protected; towards the top you need to push on to a brilliant rest point. A fantastic traverse to an atmospheric mantelshelf follows.

Pete on the third pitch of Anvil Chorus.

For me this was the crux, especially when my foot slipped and I almost whipped off. It made for a rather panic stricken udge onto the ledge. A shame really because 30 minutes later I did the same move again after retrieving a nut, but this time with more style.

Chilled walk back after AC

The final pitch was made harder for Chris because he completely ignored the obvious left hand crack. As a result he used a hard layback move off the arete to get established, making it a much more scary venture altogether.

After our exertions on AC it was Pete’s turn. With a new rope, new lead rack and me and Chris badgering him, he set off for his first lead up Alison Rib. It’s a great climb to make a first ascent on. Pete got good gear in and looked like he thoroughly enjoyed himself.

Pete on his first lead on Alison Rib
Ian on Alison Rib

He even managed to find the top after some guidance from Chris.

I wonder if this will hold. Oh well its only Ian....

So no longer a lead virgin, Pete, Chris and I headed home. It’s amazing how 9 hours just flies by when you’re having so much fun.

Climbing

Avoiding the squeeze

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4th May 2012

Pordenack Point

Nothing Much – HVS 5a – Lead
Friends – VS 5a – Lead
Wrist Climb – V Diff
Economists Route – V Diff

The aim was to have a go at a set of 3 HVS’s at Pordenack, but the reality was that two is enough to fill you up. Or at least in my case it is.

I tend to think that the routes at Pordenack are in general quite hard for the grade and Nothing Much and Friends proved no exception to that theory. Chris’s assessment of Wrist climb would back that up, with the final traverse and crack being a real challenge for a V Diff leader. Even Economists climb, which Tom and Dave doubled up on for their first alternate lead, is bold in places if not technically difficult.

Ian actually chimneying. A rare sight.
The tough sequence on Nothing Much

We paired up with Chris and Pete on Wrist Climb and me, Dave and Tom on Nothing Much. NM is actually a bit more than nothing. All the difficulty is below the crux, but in damp conditions it felt quite hard and the crux move is exposed and committing. The moves are good though, and getting through the niche is challenging culminating in a less than secure pull up around the obvious flake.

Soaking up the sunshine

Instead of finishing off the second pitch which we had done before, we scrambled back to the gearing up ledge, a pretty exhilarating route in its own right, traversing across the top of all the climbs with lots of airy drops around.

Group Climbing!

Then it was on to friends. In theory an easier climb, but in reality a strenuous and relentless climb once you’ve committed to the main crack. I had a real struggle with this having to work hard throughout and eventually succombing to the pump when I managed to create a really weird nut, Krab and rope knot which I couldnt undo.

Ian wrestling with his nuts....

To be fair I was on my limit then, so this just ensured I didnt make the onsite, but I was only a few moves from the top.

Chris in the upper niche on Friends
Chris on the exposed top moves of Friends

Chris kindly then showed me how to do the top, wild moves finishing off what I had started. Its a brilliant climb, one of the best I’ve done and I’ll be back to clean it. Pete, who had been eyeing the climb up nervously, overcame any uncertainty and gave it everything, making a fantastic job of seconding Chris. Probably the hardest climb Pete’s done so far, so hats off! I made it up on the second, so its just a case of finishing the lead.

Tom and Dave on Economists Route
Tom leading the first and relatively bold pitch of Economists Route

Meanwhile Dave and Tom were on Economists Route. Not technically the most difficult, but bold in places. For their first alternate multipitch lead it was a good choice. It’s easy to forget how challenging Sea Cliffs are at whatever grade so this was a real achievement and I’m sure opens the door to many more ascents.

Finally we all spent some time on Vietnamerica, an E1 with a tricky start, especially now the wedged boulders have fallen down. Its good practice on a climb with thin holds and balancy moves.

Dave high on Vietnamerica

What a cracking day. Hopefully the forerunner to many more this summer. I need to keep working on my stamina. It’ll come, back only with a bit more hard climbing.

 

Climbing

Boulderingly going where no man…….etc etc

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27th April 2012

Bouldering at Park Head, Helman Tor and Rough Tor

With the weather being so changeable and dry spells hard to find, Tom, Dave and I have been trawling the beaches and tors a bit closer to home looking for bouldering problems.

A bleak and grainy view of Rough Tor.

It’s strange how over the years I’ve become fairly fixated on the main climbing venues in Cornwall, always looking for the trad routes. When the weather closes in I’ve tended to just sit tight waiting for it to settle down. Turns out that if you hunt around there are places which dry quickly.

Dave on a problem left of the 4a crack at Helman
The sloper finish.

Helman Tor has become a regular spot for us recently. Loads of good problems and one we’ve had fun working through. Not listed in the guide (but almost certainly done before) it takes the face to the left of the 4a crack using small breaks for your feet and crimps. Finishes using slopers to haul over the top.

Chris on the thinner crack below the trig point.

Noticeably, we all seem to leave copious quantities of blood and skin on the rock, a right of passage it seems when entering the world of bouldering. The rock is crystalline and when your foot or hand hold goes it tends to be sudden resulting in numerous razor cuts and grazes. But its loads of fun!

Tom finishing off the traverse at Park Head

I’d been bouldering at Park Head before, and there’s a quartzy wall there with solid holds and a strenuous traverse which can be done on a low or high line. There are other boulders there, including a huge pyramid with probably the worst landing I’ve seen (resulting in a drop into a cave underneath the boulder). Some hard routes are yet to be tried on the North side of the bay, including a wicked arrete.

Escape from high tide Park Head

Unfortunately on this occasion the tide cut us off and we had to escape up the slightly loose slope, an adventure in its own right.

A great problem at Rough Tor. Start sitting at far left and work across to finish up the crack.

 

A great upwards traverse. Not hard but sustained.Move up to the top edge from the right. Finish far left.

Rough Tor is a gem for bouldering. In a few hours we found half a dozen great problems and this was just a small selection of those available. Quite a few are pretty highball, but there’s enough there that you can avoid these for the most part.

Tom about to go for the lip.
Carrier Deck. Start right then move up until you can reach for the 'deck'. Haul yourself over the lip on the right.

I left the ubiquitous chunk out of my knee on a hard mantle problem. Tom, Dave and I were so close to making this one, but the foot placement is still gritty and it didnt go on this day.

Failure. Turn out to be the hardest of the day. The move up onto the top slice at head level is tricky. No hand holds.

Add Trewortha and Hawks Tor into the mix and we’ve enough bouldering to last two or three summers.

Climbing, Uncategorized

A late lunch

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12th April 2012

Black Head

Spriggans Chimney – VS 4c – Lead
Archangel – HVS 5a – Lead

I love climbing at Black Head. There’s something about the place that just makes you happy. It’s a hidden amphitheatre with turqoise sea and stunning vista’s across the bay. I never tire of the walk in and on this occasion we managed to get quite a bit closer thanks to a friendly local who told us where to park.

Traversing to the abseil point above Sprigans Chimney

Dave and I were looking to have a go at Archangel, a climb Dave had tagged last time we were there. But the tide was high for the morning so we took on pitch 2 of Spriggans Chimney. To be honest, pitch 2 is the best pitch starting with a steep crack and leading into a corner bypassing a large overhang. As usual it took me a little while to get going, the bottom crack being a little akward with footholds that dont inspire confidence. But the top moves are fun and the traverse across the top of the overhang is exposed and exciting.

Top of Sprigans Chimney

We decided to push straight on with Archangel. A solo down Black Dyke and we were at the belay. This route is superb. Great climbing up the striking corner crack gets you to a small roof. Traverse right here across the face in a great position to find the first belay. Not hard for the grade, but the crux requires good footwork and commitment.

Ian on Pitch 1 Archangel

The top half is fairly easy climbing, disjointed, but fun with strange rock and peculiar moves. By this time we had lost all track of time and we ended up having lunch at 6p.m.! This probably accounts for why I felt rubbish for the next couple of hours.

Belay at the trop of pitch 1 Archangel

Dave however was still raring to go and tackled Rebel Yell, the E2 which goes up the steep headwall. Small holds and balancy moves put him to the test, but he wasnt found wanting, and made it up with a big smile on his face.

Fortunately we didnt have the long walk out. My blood sugar levels were still grumbling so I probably would have struggled. And so ended a fantastic day out. Only Rebel Yell to return to now, which I fancy leading at some point.

Climbing

Moor please

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30-31st March 2012

Hawks Tor and Trewortha Tor

West Chimney – V Diff 4a – Lead
Crack,n,up – V Diff 4b – Lead
Cat Nap – Severe 4b – Lead

This trip came about because of a discussion on camping out on the moor. We had been thinking about doing this later in the year, but with the warm spring it was a case of striking while the iron was hot.

Tony getting ready to take care of those pesky Squirrels!
Our backyard for the night

Hawks Tor is a stunning location. Bodmin moor is bigger than you may think and the collection of Kilmar, Trewortha and Hawks Tor’s are isolated and give a remote feeling you would not expect. We found a perfect spot, flat ground and sheltered from the cold northerly. Fire bucket in tow and Jagermeister stowed in the hip flask we were destined to have a great night.

Bed pal. Courtesy of by Jane

Those pesky Squirrels were back, this time hiding in my sleeping bag, but I made short work of this one; taming it by the morning. Whilst Tony fry’d up his three course breakfast, to complement his steak from the night before  and as an appetiser for his sausages at lunch, I eye’d up the climbs. Tom wanted to do some leading so we concentrated on the South end of the Tor.

Tony negotiating the hard start on Cat NapDave on Cat Nap

The two V Diffs I lead were both good climbs. West chimney was slightly better, but both had challenging finishes. I would say that for a V Diff West Chimney is bold. Straight forward climbing but little gear. The final move can be protected by a carefully placed cam, but your last gear is a long way below and it is an awkward move.

Cat Nap….. Welcome to the ultimate sandbag of the Tor. Graded Severe, but knocking on top end Very Severe. It’s more friendly with a bouldering mat under you, but placing gear is challenging (it is there though) and there are a series of slopers and jams to negotiate, and blood to leave.

Mats heading for Trewortha

Tony, Dave and Tom made it up with varying degrees of style and success. Nick showed us how it should be done. Shame I hadnt given the same example of technique as I fell off the opening moves about a half dozen times! I finally worked out that it was better to undercling than go for the slopers.

We wandered over to Trewortha were I was thoroughly defeated by Just Good Friends, a climb I cruised through the last time I was here. Still, it happens. The best thing about Trewortha is the bouldering. There is loads, and lots of it very hard. We found an 8 inch offwidth on a curved boulder. Laybacking all the way, but suprisingly the hard parft is when the lopes eases. You end up in a quandry as to continue laybacking or get your foot on the face. We all bellyflopped the top which as Nick said, could be the best way to finish it. The whole team negotiated this one which was a great end to a fantastic couple of days on the moor.

Ian's Atlas impression
Climbing

Perfection all around us

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23rd March 2012
Pedn-men-an-mere (St Levan’s Wall)

Geriatrics – Severe 4a – Lead
Midnight Express – E1 5b – Lead

St Levan’s Church is tucked away in a valley near the Minack theatre. Idyllic is probably the best word to describe it, nestled in amoungst a small copse with probably one of the best beaches in Cornwall a few hundred metres away.

The view across to Porth Chapel Beach

There is an honesty box for the grass car park run by a friendly women attendant, who appeared as we were about to leave. Luckily we had ‘been honest’ as ours was the only van in the car park and it would have been fairly obvious if we had not been. The walk in brings you out on a headland  with an absolutely stunning view across Porth Chapel beach.

Getting down to the main face can be tricky but follow the most obvious path to the left of the lookout and it takes you down through boulders and grassy gulleys until you arrive above the Bemuda Wall area. A quick ab down and you’re faced with the two amazing crack lines of Midnight Express and Devils Meridian.

With Tom and Dave making up the trio, we set about Geriatrics, a Severe just above the lower rock pools. It’s a strange line with a tricky start. Wet rock (which it was because of the tide and good sized swell) always un-nerves me and this proved no exception. So the warm up route became an adventure in its own right, with poor rock quality and unreliable holds.

Ian on Geriatrics
Dave on Geriatrics

It did though get me focused on Midnight Express, a line I saw the previous time I was here, and which looks hard but magnetic. After a nervy start where micro’s are the only thing stopping you taking a splash in the rock pool below, the route goes through a series of delicate bridging moves. Unfortunately I spent too long trying to fiddle in pro just below the horizontal break which blew out my arms so I ended up sitting on my gear.

Ian on Midnight Express

I think its something I’ll have to work on. Being confident enough to push on when I need to and leave my gear a bit below me.

Midnight Express - Before the final ramp

Still, I was pleased with my climbing and I’ll return shortly to clean it. Tom and Dave both made it up which was impressive given that it was top end E1 and I reckon a tough 5b on the crux. Be warned though, there is a sting in the tail and on rock with the texture of weetabix.

We finished what was a fantastic day near the marconi slab on a climb originally attempted by Joe. It proved as hard on the repeat, but gave a good bit of climbing to finish on.

Dave on the 5b finale

I’ll be back shortly to do Midnight Express again and possibly have ago at Devils Meridian, although it too looks hard. But it wouldnt be fun if it wasnt!