Big Ron and the boys made the most of a dreary New Years day, with an assault on Commando ridge in impeccable style… well maybe not impeccable but better that your average ridge climber.
Nice TieBig Ron and the Boys
After too many Prosecco’s at the Fish House at Fistral (amazing food by the way) the previous night we met early dressed in our finest New Years day suits. Strangely there was something actually likeable about climbing in a two piece, probably a throw back to bygone days.
Gearing up? Or already geared up.
We were also incredibly quick for us. Probably due to the impending rain, but we were up there in less than 2 hours. Plenty of soloing and moving together. By time I’d finished I was proper sober again, but absolutely knackered. The sleep on the way home helped!
Back in 2009 I said goodbye to my trusted old Nikon Coolpix 4300 on account of a busted zoom and a failure to actually take a picture (quite important for a camera). The Lumix then took up the slack.
Battered and Gaffered
To be fair it was never as good as the Nikon, but what it lacked in quality it made up for in ‘balls’! This camera has been through the grinder and despite being battered beyond belief, it kept going. It was the proverbial A10 Warthog of the compact camera world.
What you see through the screen!!
Its place in my rack was right at the back by my extenders. It hated chimneys almost as much as I do and I returned on many a day with a camera imprint on my back or arse.
On one of the occasions the lens came out to play???
Unfortunately I can no longer see through the view finder, get it to focus, download pictures to my PC or evn switch it on (sometimes). There is no part of the case that isnt scratched and the battery falls out when the gaffer tape loses its stickyness. Other than that its in pretty good shape.
Corner Crack – Severe 4b – Second Monday Face – VS 4c – Lead
It was a bit of a disappointment really. The forecast had been suggesting all week that Friday would be dry and sunny, but although the sun did its best, the faces of the crags were sopping. It didnt stop the coast from shining in all its glory, but as regards climbing it would be a frustrating day.
View to Cape Cornwall
Our first stop was Pentire. I had it in my mind that this would dry quickly on a day like this, but alas it was not the case. Both Rip Tide gulley and the main point were unclimbable so it was on to Sennen for what was a fall back location.
Tom on damp ground
This continued the mood of the day with all the faces being in poor condition. When the rock is wet it does not inspire you to climb hard and I started to get a feeling that maybe we should pack up and go.
Tom on Corner Crack
Tom however got us started with Corner Climb, probably the first route I ever climbed back with Bart and Tony. It sandbagged me then, but this time I had the better of it taking a slight deviation to finish on the bulge.
Tom and I mumbled about going to the pub, but it was Dave who had more determination on this day, eventually cajolling me into taking on another route. To be fair he was out to test his ankle and one route was not enough.
Longships in the sun
Monday face is a good route to do when its damp. Juggy and confidence promoting (despite the less than bombproof pro) it was a good finish to the day and set us all in a good mood for the return journey.
Equally inspiring was the amazing view towards longships, with a golden sun and battleship sea. Just amazing.
31st October 2014 Carn Barra Edge Street – VS 4c – Lead
This was a long awaited return for both Dave and Pete to the group, having spent the last weeks recouperating from ripped tendons/ligaments and a broken ankle respectively.
Rough Seas at Black Carn North
We spent a couple of hours checking out Black Carn North which shows loads of promise but was a bit exposed and damp on this day. We spotted three good routes and an E2 which looks tough but do-able.
Looking across at Carn Barra
Retreating to the upper cliffs of Carn Barra turned out to be a good call. A little less exposed and Edge Street was very worthwhile. A technical first pitch leads to a run out second. The arete is very bold if followed religously, but I veered off left to place some pro before returning for the final exposed moves.
Dave enjoying Edge Street
Dave finished it off with a strenuous final pitch involving a a bouldery move to get established on the face. Tom and Pete meanwhile were engaged in a sort of jigsaw climb where they pieced together pitches from at least three routes into what looked like a reall good climb.
A fun and welcome return to climbing for all of us.
Carn Kenidjack was the better of the two venues for shelter. Tucked away in a narrow zawn it protects you from the worst of the wind and on this day that was a bonus.
Cape Cornwall. Great name ..Cape
Setting up a top rope at Kenidjack is not easy. All the anchors are set well back and they dont line up on the belay spot. Me and Joe made a pretty good job of it in the end… good enough to feel safe anyway.
I really enjoyed the climb and I know Joe did too by the smile on his face. It is steady for the most part but has its moments. A bold start and finish and a tough crux. If I was to lead this I would want to do it in perfect conditions as overall it is a bold lead. I couldnt help but keep glancing across to Thane. Must do that the next time we are here.
Big swell in the bay
It was then off for a bit of an explore at Carn Clogh. I remebered there were a couple of HVS’s here and though we might try them. With a howling wind we set up below Nutse, a fierce looking HVS that tackles an overhang.
The line of Nutse
For a change I took it on (I was wondering why when trying to pull through the crux). It is really all about negotiating the overhang. It looks unlikely but the holds are there. You just have to find them. Fortunately I did and it turned out to be a great, although unsteady, climb.
By time we finished we could barely stand still so it was off homwe with a good buzz and mucho windburn.
Big swell in the bay
Somber day for climbing. Shame you cant see the wind.
Ivy Wall – VS 4c – Lead (dnf) Right Hand Chimney – V Diff – Second Black Jam Crack – VS 4c – Lead
I returned to Luckey Tor full of confidence. It had been many years since Ivy Wall kicked my arse resulting in the biggest fall I’ve had to date. This time I knew it was my turn to get the glory.
Meadows on the walk in
After some iffy navigating on my part, we arrived at Dartmeet (the real one this time) and set off on the quite stunning walk in, down the bank of the Dart. Having had our lives affirmed thoroughly, we wandered into the clearing and shared the rest of the day with two ponies in the clearing.
One of the more beautiful venues
So, onto Ivy Wall. It looked easier than last time, although I noticed that the convenient chockstone was missing. Still it wouldnt make any difference. Actually it didnt, cos I messed up completely and ended after an hours worth of frustration walking away in disgust.
The arete of the The Eyrie
The problem I have is that I’m not that flexible so squeezing into the niche was not enticing, so I went for the direct start which is pump and strenuous. It was a poor effort, brought on by over confidence. next time hopefully. Tom suffered a similar experience and so we went to the far side of the tor where we found a couple of classics.
Tom on Right Hand Chimney
Tom’s route was actually graded Diff, but I ca assure potential leaders that there are a couple of difficult moves, one with poor pro. Not Diff, but great climbing that makes you think a lot.
Black Jam Crack
The jam fest of Black Jam Crack was also good. As usual I didnt make it look easy, but I did enjoy squeezing up and making a desperate lunge for the top. I made it… just.
Stunning
And so ended another brilliant journey into Dartmoor. Must return here next summer and camp. A swim in the river beckons!
The intention had been to find ‘Cave Wall Traverse’, described as isolated in the cc book. It turned out to be not just isolated but illusive as well.
Looking across at Indian Buttress – Line of Indian Country
Having been down to South C Walls on a previous occasion and experienced the nightmare of being caught out on an exposed , loose and very steep descent I fortunately knew about the hidden entry point to the gully. This is still a bit loose but considerably more amenable than the alternative.( Remember to head out towards the seaward face and then double back into the gully)
Nick and I stared at where the traverse should have been but it gradually became obvious that there has been a large landslip here. It’s hard to say from where we were stood, but the climbing looked considerably harder than HS (the guidebook grade). It lookslike there is a route there, but the description in the guidebook didnt match the face we were looking at. Because it was fairly late, neither of us fancied getting stuck in some hopeless position on the face and then being be-nighted.
A good line up to the shearThe scar on the Traverse
So it was off around the corner to South C Walls. Its a great hidden area, with a useful platform and some good climbs. Nick chose Fine Line and it proved to be true. It looks good from below and the climbing is engaging and exposed. The rock as with the other routes here, is a bit suspect in places, but not enough to ruin a great outing.
With the good weather going on and on, you have to wonder how long we’ll get Gowla this year. At the moment its more likely to be light that stops play.
Looking across at Indian Buttress – Line of Indian Country
Fagin – HVS 5a – Lead Astral Stroll – E1 5b – Alt Lead
The nerves started a couple of days earlier when Nick text me about climbing on the Sunday. For some reason I already knew that he was thinking of Astral Stroll. This is one of those climbs with a reputation for wildness and commitment. One that invokes excitement and intrepidation.
Carn Gloose and Zawn Duel
It boils down to the fact that the whole climb requires both buddies to commit into some startling climbing territory with no opportunity for escape (accept to climb out). We had heard that AS can be a bit greasey in the mornings so this gave us the chance to go and check out Pedn Kei first.
Nick’s new helmet!
As it turned out this gave rise to the most sketchy climbing of the day and this was just on the approach. This amounts to a slide (in my case) down grassy embankments until you reach a rock platform above the climbing area. I cant say I enjoyed it. I think next time a grab line might be in order. Something to remember for the future.
Nick on Fagin
Abbing in, Pedn Kei reveals how much good climbing is available. We only did Fagin, a good and tricky HVS following the seaward corner. It looks like it will be damp and unpleasant but in fact its was dry and offered really good moves and pro. You start in the corner and move out onto the face at around 2/3 height with a cruxy finish. I can thoroughly recommend it.
Nick on P1 Astral Stroll
I wouldnt say the access description in the Climbers Club book is easy to follow but it did get us to the correct start for Astral Stroll. You end up in a recess on the point. A stunning place to start watching waves smash into the point and wash through the gaps below. Nick set off heading up diagonally which put him on the higher version of P1. Unknown to us this was a good choice as a rockfall now means that the lower version skips past the P1 belay point so you no longer need to down climb on the start of P2. I think this is probably the better option for the full AS experience.
First belay and The View
OK spoiler alert. If you dont want to know about the climb dont read on……..
Pitch 1 is an exposed traverse across a slab to a corner and belay point. As you move around the initial corner you get a view into what is coming and it is astonishing. Its hard to believe a route at E1 can go through this kind of territory.
First moves of P3 under the roof.
Pitch 2 has a difficult move down followed by a bold traverse and a final grunty move up under the roof. Its great but the belayer loses sight of you straight away and its hard to fully protect your second. That said a back rope helps take some of the potential swing out.
Looking back on belay of P3.
Pitch 3 is the best of all the pitches. Hard moves under the roof lead to a series of rock overs/pulls into niches and onto aretes. All whilst dangling above a drop into the ocean and with the roaring sea all around. One of the truly great pitches on any route I’ve done.
Final Moves
Pitch 4 starts with a strenuous pull over an overhang and onto a slab. Steep crimpy moves lead to the grassy alcove above and a feeling of having just been a part of something really special. It’s not worth doing another climb after this. You might as well head off to the pub and pat yourself on the back – which is exactly what we did.
What a day and many thanks have to go to Nick for sharing the experience and being the ‘competant partner’ the book says you need. And they’re right!
Dave and I decided to grab a late climb at Gowla. Initially we’d thought about Silver Dollar, but with a brooding sky and the possibilty of rain we felt 2 pitches could be pushing it.
I knew how Dave would be feeling as we abbed in. The cliff here is intimidating and given the conditions it felt bang on for a Gowla epic. As it happened Dave thoroughly enjoyed the climbing after anervous start. The crack is way harder than 4b and its sustained in places. The whole venue pushes the route into HVS territory. A VS leader embarking on this one would have a rude awakening.
The loose top out provided the most nervous part as usual, but we couldnt help but realise we’d stolen a march on the weather to get this one in.
Aviation – E1 5b – Lead Raven Wing – VS 4c – Second Outward Bound _ HVS 4c – Lead
There was only one reason for Dave and my venture to the Devon Moors and that was to have a crack at Aviation, an iconic E1 and one which I’ve had on my wish list for a while.
The view of Raven Wing and Outward Bound behind Dave
But it was to be Outward Bound which provided the early entertainment, with the aspiring avaitors getting plenty of air time. You know Outward Bound is going to be powerful and pumpy, but as it did the first time I tried it, it caught me out. Maybe we should have warmed up on something less intimidating, but it provided plenty of fun. I kept getting stuck on the transition onto the main face and Dave decided the prow was a good rest point to sit on while he contemplated the next moves.
Dave on Raven Wing.
It’s easy to think OB is all about the powerful moves, but the upper wall is delicate and needs thoughful work on protection. All together its a good varied route and well worth doing (after warming up!).
Smug Dave
Daves lead on Ravens Wing was equally adventurous. The move onto the arete is spicy and is followed by some lean climbing with sparse protection. One for a cool head and Dave did brilliantly to keep it all together and climb it with style. Definitely at the top of the grade for VS imo. Not technically hard but needs thought.
Amazing Haytor.
There were plenty of people around on Haytor, but we were left in splendid isolation for the most part. The flowers below Raven Gulley were obviously a memorial to a faller although it was hard to know who. The toy car left on the rock indicated it probably related to a child and made the whole scene very poignient and sad.
Very uncomfortable Belay!
By this time Dave and I were pooped, but it was hard to ignore the amazing line of Aviation. So it was grab the ropes and ‘lets do it!’. My first attempt resulted in me being stopped in my tracks by the first move. After backing off and contemplating how to get through I decided to just push through, utilising a bit of powerful laybacking to negotiate the bulge. After this it was sustained and varied. Delicate traverse followed by a wide groove/crack where pro was spaced. Fantastic route and one to be firmly filed away in the ‘adventure’ drawer.
With the sun starting to go down,Dave and I left for the long drive back and me promising not to go to sleep….
Amazing Haytor.
Very uncomfortable Belay!
Hanging belay on Aviation.
Country
Towards Haytor
Smug Dave
Dave on Raven Wing.
Dave on Raven Wing.
Dave on Raven Wing.
Amazingview towards Bovey.
The walk out in evening sun
The view of Raven Wing and Outward Bound behind Dave
Why it never rains on a Friday!
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