Delilah – E2 Â 5b – TR Dgd Africa Route – VS 5a – Lead Terrace Cracks – HVS 5a – TR Slanting Crack – HVS 5a – TR
Its been a while since Chris and I had a day out on the rock and given Chris’ recent absence from climbing and me being away for a couple of months, we figured we’d warm up on an E2. Of course we did! What else would we do/ Just what were we thinking!!!
Well, bizarrely it was a great idea. We both failed to climb it clean, but with waves crashing into the platform at the bottom, slightly damp holds and an exhilarating airiness to the whole affair we were buzzing by time we finished and ready for more.
A quick repeat of Africa Route reminded me of what a good climb it is. Technical start and with delicate moves through the groove. Well worth its three stars and a reminder that Sennen is littered with quality climbs that are well worth repeating.
The remainder of the day was spent messing about on a top rope on the HVS’s in the Hayloft area. Both were good fun. I probably should have led both, but to be honest sometimes you just need no frills, safe climbing where you can cut loose and make shapes. This was certaininly the case with Slanting Crack where Chris and I tried multiple variations and had a thoroughly enjoyable afternoon.
So, what a great day! No real anxiety, lots of good climbing and possibly the only downer was that we forgot our surfboards as there was a bit of swell in the bay. 🙂
Dolphin Cracks – HVS 5a – Lead Commando Crack – VS 5a – Second Six Blade Knife – E2 5b – TR
So my second attempt at Dolphin Cracks ended up roughly the same way as my first. In a fit of angst.
Dolphin Cracks is a committing climb and the top section, even if you sling the convenient chock stone, bodes for a rough ride if you come off. Probably not a decking, but definitely some skin loss.
I struggled on this. Not so much the opening moves where I chose to bridge and stay on the face, but the committing move to layback the top section. I did them on a second, but leading was a bit of a mind game. As it happens the top moves are really positive, so I had nothing to worry about, but its always easier in hindsight. I think the next time I go I will try again as I know I can complete the moves now so it could be a confidence booster.
Dave had an excellent lead on Commando Crack. Situated in Irish Lady Cove its nestled away off the beaten track. Half the fun here is the death defying descent through broken and loose ground, but it all adds to the adventure. But its well worth seeking out. It is not quite an off width, but forces you to climb inventively to make the crux sections. Not easy, but definitely a good if unusual VS with a nicely exposed finish.
We finished on an E2 ‘ Six Blade Knife’ by top roping it from the belay of Commando Crack. It’s a good climb. Hard in the botom half with a very reachy but great move to the large flake. This takes a bit of working out, but once sorted it goes OK. Then its traverse up the line of flakes to a not as easy as it looks finish. Very cool climb.
It was nice to be back on the rock and climbing reasonably well. Sennen always a good venue to make you feel at home.
Reach – E2 5c – TR Charlie’s Chank Seaward Arete – 6a-Â Lead(Eventually) Blondie Jams with Sepultura – HVA 5a – Second (Dgd)
As well as being one of the most beautiful beaches in Cornwall on its day, Pednvounder is also well known as a nudist spot. On this day we shared the beach with a number of naturists, but to be honest after the initial ‘oh my god, why are you letting me see that!’ you dont even notice as the climbing is absorbing and great fun. I sometimes wish I had the bottle to get in tune with nature, but I cant see that ever happening. I leave that to Tom :-).
Pednvounder Beach
It really is a stunning location and with the formation of a lagoon, which cut the beach in half, it had the look and feeling of being abroad. The climbing is disjointed though. The cliff here does not really run to full height with its routes. Most are on the lower, more reliable rock that comes straight off the beach. Reach is to be found in a narrow zawn a few metres after you arrive on the beach. It is easily identified as it is a seriously overhanging piece of rock.
Looks hard and is hard
Joe advised me that the routes here are sometimes done as highball bouldering problems. That would be a serious fall if you blew it at the top. And given the really pumpy nature of the routes that is a definite possibility. I knew the E2 would be hard, so I ‘warmed up’ on the short overhanging crack at the start of Shady Wall. Of course this was much harder than I anticipated, so I proceeded to dog it for the first few attempts. Eventually after I had enough gear in I cleaned it, but not what I would call a clean ascent! Dave however made it on his first go, just to make me feel entirely inadequate. Git…
Dave giving it the soulful walk .. “I want to be at one with nature!!!”
Meanwhile Joe and Tom were giving it some on an impossibly hard route to the right of Reach. I think the start ended up having the beating of them but no wonder, with small holds and a major overhanging route. Reach has a hard start, but eases as you get higher. But only by degrees. It is all overhanging so even those ‘good holds’ soon feel inadequate. Having made the hard start I just kept going, thinking that I wouldnt be able to get going again so best make the best of this attempt, which eventually turned out OK, although I ached for a while just after.
Joe gets jammin
Joe was determined to get over to Logan Rock for a jamming fest on Blondie jams with Sepultura. He got his wish, as we all gave up some skin for the cause. This was despite being taped up for the job (which is like a wax job when you take it off). The climb is tough, with problematic foot jams and a crack that doesnt quite fit your hands.
Tom gives it a go
Joe made his way up on the lead and the three of us followed with varying degrees of success. What I would say is that it is thoroughly enjoyable, despite the pain. I’d like to try it again now, having tried once. Make a better ‘fist’ of it next time.
Mashed…
So, what a great day out. Fabulous views, great climbing and good friends. What more can you ask for?
Wax job
and keeps going
Ohh nice hands
Mashed…
Now Daves turn to give blood
and makes it.
Tom gives it a go
I’ll just slot this leg in here. That’ll work.
Joe gets jammin
So where are we?
Blondie.
Shady Wall
Looks hard and is hard
Dave giving it the soulful walk .. “I want to be at one with nature!!!”
Finale Groove – HVS 5a – Lead Lightning Wall – HVS 5a – Second Tatra – E1 5b – Alt Lead (Just)
Swanage, one of the sunniest locations in the UK. Or is it? Well the weather forecast seemed to suggest it would be, but the weather gods had other ideas in mind. So despite finding a sheltered spot in a great campsite  (Acton Field) at Langton Matravers,  we were doomed to have a pretty wet time of it.
Happy Campers
Our first foray was to Guillemot Ledge, a short walk from the campsite down lanes to the cliff. My first view of the coastline here revealed how shear and intimidating the area is. There are no escape routes as such, unless you climb out as the cliff wall is fairly unbroken. This means everything is reached by abseil.
Guillemot Ledge before the rain
So down we went and an hour later we were prussicing out after the unexpected rain came in. This lasted for the rest of the day, necessitating a trip to the local pub for a pasty and a beer.
Nick on Campaign. But he has a point…
Saturday started much better, although cool and very windy and we re-located to Boulder Ruckle an area with a number of outstanding climbs. I started on Finale Groove. This HVS just keeps on coming. Each time you think you are through the hardest part, another tricky move appears. It is absorbing climbing and keeps you on your toes to the end, particularly with the loose blocky finish. I dont think Nicks experience of the route was as enjoyable as mine as my belaying went south along with the good weather. So for much of the route I think Nick was on slack or very slack ropes. I need to remember to haul on them until it is clear I have taken all the slack in.
The traverse on Lightning Wall
Our next route was Lightning Wall, where thanks to Nicks Lead we rescued another parties set of gear after they had been washed out on the previous day as well. This is quite a cruxy route, with the main difficulties in the moves onto and off the wall. But again the climbing is terrific.
Looking at our weather horizon
Our final route with the weather closing in again, was an old HS now E1 called Tatra. This proved a step too far for me, although Nick made a good job of the lead on P1. This is pumpy and you need to move quickly to avoid the pump, something I failed to do rsulting in the usual wooden forearms and a couple of sits in the rope.
Unfortunately this did for me on Pitch 2 as well as the strenuous traverse proved too much for my now puny arms resulting in some not too graceful aiding through the 4b traverse pitch as my mental state unravelled along with my physical capabilities. This was just in time for the rain to arrive on the final pitch. Fortunately this remained reasonably protected for a while allowing Nick enough time to get through the bulge/overhang. A request to confirm the route in the guide was duly refused due to poor eyesight, although I could see enough of the picture to know we were on the right line.
Just before the traverse whilst I was still smiling
A very soggy march back to the campsite  was followed by a decamp as I mentally wrote the remaining part of the weekend off as pants. Enough of the rain and so we headed home, via Bridport and an old man casualty who benefitted from the comfort of our sleping bags whilst he waited for an ambulance.
And so Swanage gave some glimpses of what it might deliver and given good weather I imagine this area would be a paradise of amazing trad limestone. As long as the sun shines…
The traverse on Lightning Wall
Lightning Wall
Finale Groove
The boulder hop to get to Finale Groove and Tatra
Gloaming
Down on the ledge
Looking at our weather horizon
Guillemot Ledge before the rain
Free Willy!!
Happy Campers
Just before the traverse whilst I was still smiling
When you’re looking for an archetypal sea cliff then Chair Ladder seems to fit the bill, especially when thinking of multipitch routes. And so when Rory got hold of me to say he wanted to come down prior to the Boardmasters festival and do some sea cliff climbing…. the destination almost picked itself.
To say it was a fairly intense introduction to sea cliffs would be an understatement. I have always found Chair Ladder a bit intimidating. Possibly the ab in and the fact all the climbs literally start from sea level on a small platform. Anyway, my initial idea of starting on Flannel Avenue evaporated as it became apparent that we’d need to swim to get access to the start. So plan B was Diocese and so we went for it.
The ab in
It is such a good climb. An opening technical bridging pitch leads to a very exposed traverse (the so called crux but probably only for the intimidation factor a I found pitch 1 harder technically) and finally a couple of pitches on exposed slabs high above the sea.
Rory on P1 Diocese
It has everything. And I hope Rory enjoyed himself on this one, because it is one of Cornwall’s finest outings on granite.
A snug little belay 🙂A very relaxed Rory
One climb in a day may not seem a lot, but this actually took a lot out of me and by time we had been exposed to the sun and wind for 4Â hrs I was prepared to call it a day.
Breaking onto the slab P3 (FA Variation)
A quick mooch over to Hella completed a really enjoyable, relaxed day with good friends. Even the 30 min hike out along the road was pleasant, before the inevitable struggle with the summer traffic. Remember “Your car is not as wide as you think it is!”
Well there’s a few lessons to be learned from this climb. When guidebooks refer to Carn Gowla, they are basically using a different form of climbing dictionary..
‘Generally good rock’ = ‘Some holds may remain attached to the cliff”
‘Reliable protection’ = ‘Placements will only explode after you load them’
‘Good holds’ = ‘They may break and you will plunge to your doom’
‘exhilarating climbing’ = ‘You’re going to die’
I base this upon the adventure Dave and I had tackling Silver Dollar and fantastic, if mentally draining climb on the Baptist Cliff. The abseil in sets the tone for the adventure. A long drop down a V groove which involves free descending for a way. Then having arrived at a ramp in an amazingly beautiful but overwhelming section of coast you traverse across to a large cave and the start of the climb.
The ab in
From the bottom it looks intimidating. Â Once on it, it becomes a mental game of you vs the unreliable rock. I had the honours for the first pitch which climbs slightly rightward, angling over the cave initially and then cutting back to finish under the silver dollar.
The view down towards Mercury
The climbing is great, forcing shapes and moves, but none too hard. The pro is spaced and only just adequate. Of all the pieces I placed I would probably only have really trusted 3 to definitely hold.
Pitch 1 Silver Dollar
However, the cliff forces you into a level of concentration you normally dont have to create. Move delicately, test each hold and foot placement and work your way up into a magnificently exposed part of Gowla. So good and so terrifying at the same time.
1st Belay
Dave set off from my only just adequate belay and moved up and around the Silver Dollar. We used the Pat Littlejohn guide and I think the route diagram is wrong in this book. It stay too far right of the dollar. The climbers club book is more accurate. As a result Dave ended up on the upper reaches of Castaway, an E1 variation. This was still brilliant climbing but was definitely more 5a than 4c and more E1 than HVS for pro. Still Dave handled it well and reached the second belay, which was effectively a pile of tottering choss. It was in keeping with the final 10 metre scramble across mounds of earth, grass tussocks, loose gravel and paper thin flakes of rock.
Dave on p2 of Silver Dollar
As I crawled over the edge onto the grass above I have never been so relieved to grad a Rabbit Burrow, which was the best hold I encountered during the whole of the last pitch. Next time, we will be placing a pre placed rope for the final section. God it was awful!
Breaking onto the grass
The evening’s end though was not. A setting sun, warm breeze and massive amounts of contentment and self congratulations capped of another Gowla epic. Will this place ever stop scaring me?
Un-Named – HVS 5a – Lead
Mach 3 – HVS 5a – Lead
Ink and Ointment – E1 – Second
The upper buttress is a brilliant evening location. Fairly easy to walk into, non tidal and relatively close to Newquay (relatively…).
The rock though is not the best and the climbs are fairly short. That said, this particular venture was perfect and we successfully got three good climbs in.
What I would say is that the climbs as a whole are over-graded. Take one technical grade off for a more realistic indication. The severity part is probably not too far off on Un-Named because of the poor rock quality, but again for the other two, they are well protected so maybe one grade lower here too.
That said, they are still worthwhile climbs. Un-Named heads up the crack and face of the main slab and although not hard, is insecure and requires care. Both the others are one move wonders, but they are good moves that require a bit of thought. Tom’s E1 was tricky to start and probably the most technical of the three, but again, once through the hard part it finished quickly. Mach 3 actually looks harder than it is. Get your body shape right and its a breeze…
I’ve nearly climbed this venue out in two visits. There are still three more routes to grab, so no doubt this will be another visit when the tides are all wrong.
Willie’s Way – HVS 5a – Alt Lead Flake Wall – VS 4c – Alt Lead
There are times when you wonder how your body and your mind get along. The body is willing, but the mind says ‘No!’. It doesnt matter how hard you try, it is sometimes very difficult to conquer this.
the pro in the ‘relatively’ secure chimney/overhang
Poor Dave had to watch me going through a mental epic on the overhang of Willie’s Way. I knew I could do it. I felt strong, but my head had no intentions of giving in easily.
And so I went up and went back down again numerous times before Dave gave some sound advice and said to come back down, compose myself and rest, and try again. And so on about the 7th attempt I just went for it and surprise, I made it. It was good to know that Dave also found it hard, so I had at least some justification for my hesitancy. Many thanks to Dave for being so patient and positive.
The ab in. You cant see the rock pool cleverly placed at the bottom.
We went to Tater Du because of the wind conditions and it turned out to be a good call. Sun for most of the day and good shelter. Willie’s Way has been on my ‘To do’ list for ages. Ever since I went to Tater Du with Bart and did Bus Route the adjacent V Diff. All three pitches are worthwhile with a rising degree of difficulty. The main event is the short V Chimney and capping overhang.
These are big moves on relatively big holds, but you are effectively on a 90 degree slope for the overhang. It is a case of finding the right sequence because once you commit (eventually 🙂 ) there’s no going back. But the pumpyness is short lived and the pro good. The rock looks suspect, but is solid and seems reliable. Great route and maybe I’ll do it again just to prove to myself I can get over that fear factor.
Joe going for the move over the overhang on Lamorna Wall.
Tom and Joe meanwhile were on their own epic Lamorna Wall. A fantastic looking E2 going up through the middle of the main wall. By all accounts its all about the move through the overhang which looked nails.
Joe moving up the faceTom and Joe high on Lamorna Wall
But the situations looked incredible. Of course this was just a prelude to Tom finding a nasty chimney to do in Fat Panda! How come Tom likes chimneys so much – I dont see the attraction lol . By all accounts this one was sparcely protected too.
Our second climb (if we were anywhere near on the right route) was Flake Wall. The first pitch parallels WW but hugging the arete with a final bold pull onto the big ledge. The guide book description says to cross the blocky overhang, so thats what Dave did. Whether it was the right overhang I have no idea, but Dave set off and encountered his own epic.
Dave on the traverse on Flake Wall
You’d think it was a lot easier than tackling the overhang direct, but the reality is that its just as committing. Same initial gear but then a wild swing out left and some awkward foot placements on the crumbling ‘flake wall’. Then its up andover. Less steep, but still lots of exposure.
Me finishing Flake Wall
So two great routes and Dave and I were both buzzing. Add to this one of the most beautiful locations in Cornwall and you have an ‘epic’ day.
the pro in the ‘relatively’ secure chimney/overhang
Tom and Joe high on Lamorna Wall
Joe moving up the face
I could hang here for days.
Joe going for the move over the overhang on Lamorna Wall.
Beauty. The scenery that is…
The ab in. You cant see the rock pool cleverly placed at the bottom.
Slippery Slab – VS 5a – Lead On Your Marks – HVS 5a – Alt Lead
That was basically what I was thinking as we left Sennen after a great but fairly gruelling days climbing. My body felt like it had been hit by a train – sore arms and shoulders, cuts everywhere and feeling drained.
But what a day….
Everything I’d read about Slippery Slab suggested it was great, but being self descriptive I had wanted to ensure it was in condition. So what better than a dampish day, with puddles indicating the remnants fo the previous days showers. What could possibly go wrong.
Dave, after moving off the bottom ledge and finishing the perplexing traverse.
Well route finding for a start. Dave and I both initially  looked at the wrong line. The clue is the description of the high nut. The guide books are vague at best but basically do the following:-
Climb up onto the big slightly sloping ledge. Move to its back in the large V Groove and place some high gear. Then return to the bottom edge of the ledge and move right (facing in) into a much smaller hanging groove and pull up onto the slab. It takes some working out, but the holds are there as well as a camny hidden protection slot. Keep looking and you’ll find it.
One of the great moves on Slippery Slab
I managed to blow the move up. I worked out the hard moves, got up and placed a good nut and then slid off the wet hold my left hand was perched on. So it was lower off and do it again, this time with no incidents. The rising crack is fantastic. Well protected and with loads of great moves.
Dave nearing the top of Slippery Slab
Dave suffered from the same symptoms as I had, spending a while working out the moves, but eventually getting it. Â Warning beta! There is a jug at the end of the difficult moves so dont give up.
Having spanked ourselves on SS the obvious decision was to go looking for something even more strenuous and with a harder crux. Why not? It was Dave’s idea anyway.
The line of On Your Marks
So I set up for the bottom pitch of On Your Marks and proceeded to completely run out of gas and make a feeble attempt at the opening cracks (which wernt actually that bad). So Dave stepped up, announced that “Your feeble. Watch how a man does it!” and cleaned the cracks in one go. I managed to get up them on the second, thanks to Dave, so we were left with a dilema.
The second pitch had an overhang. I thought it looked technical but not too hard. Dave figured it was nails. Dave was right, but in my usual inherent stupidity I grabbed the lead and set out on an epic.
Half an hour later, with my hands and legs bleeding, my shoulders dislocated and not enough strength to hold the ropes I ended up on the ledge above the overhang. It wasnt easy, it was friggin difficult. I actually nearly made it. Pulled out of the cosy recess, pulled up into the main event and even got my foot on the rim and pulled partially over. But then I didnt spot the jug hold and that was the end of it. 4 tries later I woosed out and went left to a treacherous finish that way.
Hayloft area – On Your Marks
Dave then rubbed humiliation into my wound by cleaning the overhang, albeit with the red-est face I’ve seen him pull yet. Good job it was and Dave can tick another HVS lead and a good one at that.
And so ended a brilliant day, with yet more adventures ticked. The ride home was fairly quiet compared to normal. Probably because we’d both emptied the tank, but what a great feeling. I think I may have to try that overhang again 🙂
Well this was good for a leg workout. I decided to take the right hand buttress down from the Coastguard lookout in the mistaken belief I could get to Sluice from the ‘Crystal’ section of crag. All this got me was a long walk back out with a full pack so I could drop down the other side.
The waves always create the mood on any climbing day
Then of course I lobbed my belay device into the sea (wouldnt be the same if I didnt sacrifice gear at Carn Gowla) so had to haul another one up just to ab in. Not an auspicious start. But it did get a lot better.
A slab like biscuit
I arrived a bit late to find Joe on something rediculously hard and overhanging. Desire an E2 5c with a wicked strenuous crack. Nothing new there then! After sorting out a lack of a second rope, Dave and I finally got started on Sluice a strange but enjoyable HVS on the corner of the buttress. With a good swell running the whole area was pretty dramatic and Sluice added some spice being crumbly and unreliable on the hold front.
Dave nearing the top of the upper slab on Sluice
There is a short but slightly bold start which leads to a couple of ‘bomber??’ threads. Then you move up and over the overhang onto the upper slab. Its a great exposed move onto some thin foot flakes. Tread lightly as they dont take much to break as Dave found out. Then a final nervous sequence up the wall on good but strange and sharp holds. I didnt want to load them son spent most of my time getting my feet right. For our first evening out this was great fun and hopefully lots more Gowla adventures to come.
Carn Growlerrrrr
I might even go back and try Desire one day if I’m feeling particularly strong 🙂
Carn Growlerrrrr
After the move out onto the slab
The waves always create the mood on any climbing day
A slab like biscuit
Dave nearing the top of the upper slab on Sluice
Why it never rains on a Friday!
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