Tag Archives: 5a

Climbing

Screaming Feet!

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Carn Kenidjack

2nd April 2013

Main Cliff
Saxon Direct – HVS 5a – Second
Rock Dancer – E1 5b – Lead

Seadreams Cliff
Seadreams – HS 4b – Second

Climbing in my own shoes is proving to be a novelty these days, but I got it right this time. On a bright sunny day Joe and I headed for Kenidjack to complete something we started a few years back when we visited on a rainy grim day and had to abandon our ambitions.

Cape Cornwall

Kenidjack is still probably my favorite crag in Cornwall. The climbing is fantastic with crimpy holds and small edges for your feet. Not that strenuous, but it does a real job on your feet and you have to work hard.

Almost there

Joe started things off on Saxon Direct. The final stage of this route angles straight up from the horizontal break rather than traversing to the block. In a way its a more natural line and makes for a spicy finish. IMO they’re both great and on this day Joe made a good job of the route. The start is quite a bold series of moves, but once on the main face the gear is OK.

The belay anchors are a way back

Our pre placed belay ropes made things easy when Joe topped out. By this time the heat was coming off the face and the bitterly cold start was a distant memory. The stunning views across to Cape Cornwall are enough to inspire anyone so we dropped back into the zawn for a crack at Rock Dancer.

I climbed this 3 years back with Nick and remembered it was brilliant but couldnt really remember much about the route except for the mono (guaranteed to be memorable). I knew good pro was spaced. Again there is a bold start followed by steep climbing. The crux is just about adequately protected which makes the ramp a spicy prospect. All in all worth three stars in my book and equally as good as Saxon.

The base of the Main Cliff

After some well deserved lunch it was off to Seadreams Cliff, a new venue for me. The descent is down a hole strewn grassy ridge which is obviously a hunting ground for the resident Peregrines. The ripped apart Seagul was testiment to this.

The line of Apocalypse E2 5c

It turned out to have some good routes and well worth a return visit when the tide isnt threatening to wash over the bottom ledge. Joe finished on a really good HS. Once again small edges for our, by then, battered feet but with excellent pro. A hidden jem.

Near the top of Seadreams

Fully knackered we decamped just as the temperature dropped. As a reminder we should park closer next time because the track is open for quite a way towards the old quarries.

 

Climbing

Wolves in sheeps clothing

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Pentire point
Redwall Cliffs

28th March 2013

Warrior Mouse – HVS/E1 5a – Lead
Cradle of Filth – HVS 5a – Second

OK. Leaving you climbing shoes behind three times is beyond a joke. I need a new system whereby I keep my shoes with my bag instead of in the shed where they so often seem to be when I need them?

Fortunately Tom came to my rescue, sharing his red chillis with me which did me fine for two difficult routes. Redwall Cliffs are to be found at the end of the path from Pentire Farm, so access is straight forward; just walk past the bench and head towards the sea. Watch out for the outlandishly large sheeps poo which Chris assured us came from the famous Pentire wolves……… Whatever it was, Tom shouldnt have stepped in it.

View to the Rumps

As with a lot of the Atlantic Coast routes, the rock is not as solid as Penwith granite.  In fact around this cliff there is a lot of looseness. Tom detaching a grapefruit sized lump of rock from the cliff did not instill confidence. But Warrior Mouse is a great looking line leading up a steep groove and then out onto a steep face.

After my usual faffing moments where I started…stopped..started…etc I got stuck into the bottom chimney/groove. It is very steep which makes it tough to place gear, but once I had placed a key nut my confidence leapt and and the rest of the climb came together nicely. There is an atmospheric traverse followed by some excellent face climbing where the rock deteriorated with altitude.

Gearing up on Cradle of Filth

Creating belays is troublesome as there are no anchors directly behind the crag. On WM you can anchor to a side bluff, but for Chris he ended up using a concrete water trough some 55 metres back connected by Tom’s 10mm rope (just a little stretch in the mechanism).

Concentration

Chris chose another HVS further across on the main cliff. Cradle of Filth is aptly named due to a muddy step early on in the climb. But after this it is anything but dirty. The meat of the climb starts when you reach the headwall. This is also where the crux is. The move up from the ledge is precarious and technical. Once you work the sequence out it is OK but you have to rely on some less than positive holds initially.

The loose top out

There’s also another exciting finish to the climb with loose rock abounding. Having said all of this, Redwall Cliifs turned out to be a good venue. The views across to the Rumps and Pentire Point are startling and on this day the sea was calm and clear.

View to Pentire Point

 

Climbing

Unfinished business

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Aire Point / John Wayne Memorial Crag

14th March 2013

Biggles Flies Undone – HVS 5a – Second
Hit The Deck, Here She Comes – HVS 5b – Lead
Stagecoach – VS 5c – Lead

The first day of proper spring is what it felt like. Actual warm sunshine and blue skies. Deceptive because coming in behing this day were gales and heavy rain. Still we made the most of the window with a trip to Sennen Cove.

Back towards Sennen

The views on this day were stunning. As Tom said, the granite seemed to cahnge colour all day depending on the height and intensity of the Sun. A couple of very spectacular venues.

View back towards Aire Point with the prominent lines of Airplane and BFU

After checking out John Wayne Memorial Crag we spotted the lines we wanted to do but they needed a little more drying so we started on Aire Point. Chris and Tom on Aireline, a tough VS taking on the definative chimney in the centre of the crag and Joe tackling Biggles Flies Undone, an HVS I had had my eye on for a while but which I deferred to Joe because I didnt want him to cry and humiliate himself in front of the rest of the crew.

Joe mid crux on Biggles Flies Undone

Turns out it was tougher than first appearances suggested. The real problems are short lived but require a bit of commitment. There is little for your fet at first and placing pro is strenuous. Joe made a good job of it before blasting up the top thank god flake. A top start to the day.

Making our way back to JWMC

We returned to JWMC and set about the two HVS 5b’s. Chris on Regans Regression and me on Hit The Deck, Here She Comes (variation) We both suffered the same ignominious defeat. For me, it was my stamina that let me down. I’ve got to get that sorted. Howver HTDHSC is a very good climb and I want another go at it to clean it. Chris and I intend to return soon to complete our respective ‘projects’.

Tom on the deceptively difficult Sheriff VS 4c

As a finale Chris and Tom went for Sheriff, an outwardly innocuous VS but one which proves decidedly move difficult with technical moves on the upper slab.

The balancy final moves of Sheriff

Suprisingly Joe wanted a go at the 5c route Stagecoach (insert irony here). Clearly he hadnt fallen off anything yet and wanted the opportunity. Stagecoach provided it. It is really a one sequence wonder with excellent pro.

Joe tops out the 5c section of Stagecoach having given blood to the cause

Get a couple of nuts in and go for it (Pete that’s your red Metollius we scratched up).

Pete. Do you recognise this!……

After going up and down a couple of times I eventualy went for it and suprisingly made it. The barn door potential is the problem as Joe found out. However in the end we both did it and capped off a grand day out.

A day which left everyone knackered but feeling good. A word of warning though. The walk out from Aire Point is a beast after a long day and with a heavy pack. Be prepared.

 

Climbing

Days of the week.

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22nd February 2013

Sennen
Sunday and Monday Face

Dexter – VS 4c – Second
Slim – VS 5a – Lead
Vertical Crack – VS 4c – Second

OK. The thin snow drifting around when we arrived gave a clue to the days conditions. Cold. And i therefore offered myself some advice. Stick to climbs with big holds and stay away from finger routes.

Looking across Monday Face with Dave on CWD.

It’s a shame I cant follow my own logic then. But over confidence will do that to you forcing a disregard for the blindingly obvious. Your hands are going to get cold!

Tom leading the tough bottom crack of Church Window Direct

Tom and Dave kicked things off with an attempt on Church Window, Tom preferring the direct and harder start to the traditional flop onto the high shelf. For an initial pitch it is a pumpy start, but Tom made good work of it, finishing via the corner in the alter niche.

Chis hangin.. on Dexter

Meanwhile Chris was leading the tricky and exposed Dexter. This route is all about the top traverse and finish. Moving off the pinnacle at the top of the crack you’re faced with a swing out onto the main face using the rising flake as a rail. It feels very bold, but not as bold as the step up at the end. That’s special. All in all a great lead by Chris in the conditions.

Pete on Dexter.

Pete found it difficult, but to his credit he stuck at it and made it through. I also found it exposed. The conditions meant your hands felt cold and it was difficult to trust your grip at times.

Chris about to go for the top move on Dexter.

Which is why it was all the more surprising that I chose a tasty finger crack  Slim for my lead… which proceeded to remind me that I was not as good as I thought I was. More of a mental state though, than a lack of physical ability. Four attempts later I finally cleared the early 5a move and the remainder of the climb was stright forward. Looks like I’ll have to come back and repeat this one.

Dave on the top cracks of CDW… just after taking to the air.

Both Dave and Chris lead vertical crack on this day. It’s been upgraded now to VS which is understandable so Dave has now bagged a VS which is brilliant going for so early in the year. It is well protected so it helps to settle the nerves, but is still technically a challenge.

Tom on CWD.

The same can be said for the top section of Church Window Direct, although Dave decided to put in some air time after peeling off on the tough top moves. CWD is one of my favorite climbs at Sennen. I want to give it another go next time we’re back.

Dave looking relaxed on CWD. He shouldnt have been???

Hopefully things will now warm up for the rest of the year. I’m definitely looking forward to summer.

Climbing

My legs have gone to a Disco!

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The Dewerstone

19th February 2013
Spiders Web – HVS 5a – Alt Lead

It was good to have a few dry days in a row. The issue now was a freezing South Easterley wind to deal with so the shelter of the Dewerstone seemed an obvious choice.

Our own private stream for the day.

Having had an outing on a VS recently I felt ready to give an HVS a go and I’d often wanted to try Spiders Web. Three stars and two pitches it seemed ideal for Chris and I to have a crack at it. Strangely this was the first multi pitch HVS we have done so it was a step in the right direction..

Starting out on Spiders Web

I set out on Pitch one very tentatively and after faffing around for ages finally got going. I think I had forgotten that HVS’s are difficult and expected to just breeze through it. We P1 woke me up and negotiating the crux corner made me work very hard.

Crux 2. The move onto the first slab.

A step up onto a small right hand foot placement saw my leg begin to break dance. There is not a lot for your hands except a thin jam, which is jut enough to pull through. Look out for a perfect cam slot to settle the nerves.

About to head out onto the delicate top slab.

Chris’s pitch was very different. This time it was balancy traverses with lots of smearing and small hand holds. The top slab is special, especially the first move out from above the tree. Gets the heart pumping, but pro is very good so you can proceed with confidence.

Topping out.

After much patting each other on the back, we decided to quit while we were ahead. An easy thing to do in a beautiful place like The Dewerstone. The walk back through the woods by the stream allows for some smug reflection on what was a blinding day.

Climbers on Devils Buttress

And there are a few more HVS’s for us to do yet….

Climbing

One for the eternal optimists

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26th October 2012

Porthguarnon Cove

Moaning Minnie – V Diff – Lead
Strake – HS 4b – Top Rope
Coiled Stick – HVS 5a – Lead
Eternitys Few – VS 5a – Second

Stood on the gearing up platform shortly after our arrival it was hard to imagine we would be doing anything but heading for the Logan Rock Inn for a pint. Contrary to the forecast, there was drizzle and it was fairly persistant.

The traverse in.

I’ve never been one for giving up and so we decided to make our way over to the base of the lower tier climbs. This is a good warm up in its own right and in the wet with a bit of swell added, there was a bit of spice in the traverse.

Ian starts out on Moaning Minnie.

Erring on the side of caution Dave and I picked a Diff and V Diff respectively. Strangely, by time we got to the top the rain had stopped and the granite was drying fast. The rain didnt detract from Moaning Minnies qualities. Its a V Diff with good variety and it has a sting in the middle in the form of a narrow, skewed ramp. Climbing this with style is a major challenge as everything slopes the wrong way…. tricky.

Joe 'discovering' the narrow off balance ramp on Moaning Minnie

Dave meanwhile was making his way up Kellys Eye, the distinctive channel which bisects the main climbing area. So we all met at the middle tier platform. This gave Tom, Chris, Joe and Dave a chance to worm their way up Sloe Slab, the very different route with a crawl to finish. Having already done this I top rope Strake. I almost wish I hadnt. Its a bit grim, very overgrown and dirty. Without all the muck it might be a good route, but in this condition its best avoided.

The difficult start to Sloe Slab

Now Coiled Stick is very different. It has its moments with regard to dirt and moss, particularly on the middle crack, but overall its a great route. I cant deny that the middle section spooked me a bit. The pro would probably have been OK if the crack wasnt full of soil and weeds. Trying my best not to just rip everything out, I managed to eke out a few poor placements, but at no time did I think ‘That’s a bomber’. But the climbing is not hard at this point, just balancey.

The tricky middle crack

The top crack is a different proposition. Here the pro is good but the climbing much tougher as power starts to come into play. The damp conditions didnt help, but to be fair it was more a case of pushing on and getting established in the crack. Once I’d done this things became more manageable. Really pleased I did this one.

Ian on the tough top crack of Coiled Stick

Meanwhile Chris was on Porcupine. Given VS it is soft at the grade, but this doesnt detract from the quality of the climb. A great route which Dave and Tom thoroughly enjoyed as well.

Chris on the top section of Porcupine

We had time for another route (just) so Dave set off on the brilliant Iron Bells while Joe tackled the hard start on Eternitys Few. I knew Dave was in for a treat, but Joe’s route turned out to be good as well. The crux is a bold move about 6-7 metres up, probably why it is given 5a. It takes some working out and the slippy moss doesnt inspire you with confidence. A good lead by Joe.

Dave on Iron Bells.

Having to make our way back to the gearing up ledge, we ended up scattering across the crag. probably not a good idea as I spied Dave inching his way up what looked like hard territory. Joe needed a bit of help by Dave and Tom as he got stuck half way up a chimney. Maybe next time we’ll stick together. Chris and I traversed back on the lower slabs, back roping a dodgey wet decent crack and following the traverse back. main thing is we all arrived back safe just as we lost the light and trudged back to Penberth.

If you’d said the day would turn out this well at the start I wouldnt have believed you. Another stolen moment on Cornish granite.

Climbing

Was it left at the crack, second right at the groove and straight past the ledge???

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21st September 2012

Bosigran

The Armchair – HVS 5a – Lead
Doorpost – HS 4b – Second

Pete, bless his cotton socks , had to be on his toe’s as I took to the air on Armchair. A silly mistake really. I missed the wet patch on what is a fairly polished route anyway. The result was unexpected flight time.

Ian on The Armchair

The start of Armchair is a real mental exercise. Ten years ago maybe the edges were a bit sharper and positive, but on this day everything seemed rounded and smooth. As it happened I negotiated the harder stuff and then fell off once things eased off. This though doesnt detract from the fact The Armchair is a top climb. It just  get better and better the higher you go. Lots of tough exposed moves up the ramp add up to an exhilerating experience. One of my favorites.

Chris on the crux of P1 Paragon

Chris and Joe meanwhile tackled Zig Zag and Dave and Tom Doorpost. Because Pete and I took a little longer ( I had to strip some gear) by time we had finished lunch Chris and Joe has started off on Paragon. Shame they didnt take the guidebook, because they got lost on pitch three, missing the offwidth and ending up on Nameless. A lesson learned really in making sure a guide book is to hand on multi pitch routes. Still it means Chris and Joe have a target for the next time they go to Bosi.

Tom leading P1 Doorpost

I finished on Doorpost with Tom and Dave. Tom got his first experience of a Hard Severe on the lead. The big difference for him was placing gear on what is a tough traverse. Not sure Bosi had even heard of some of the language he used but Tom got there in the end for his first HS tick. Dave set off on P2. His confidence is brimming at the moment and it showed as he negotiated the crux move through the twin cracks on what must be one of the most exposed sections of bosi. Doorpost is remarkable in the exposure it delivers at the grade. Lots of adrenaline then.

The view down P2 Doorpost

So next time back at Bosi its going to be a full ascent of Paragon. Bring it on!

Climbing

One demon down. Another one added…..

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8th September 2012

Pordenack Point / Carn Boel

Friends – VS 5a – Lead
Immaculate Groove – E1 5b – Second

A really foggy morning greeted us from our tents at Treen. Treen has a great campsite and was a good choice of venue for the BMC meet. Shame then that most of the BMC was at Treverven Farm campsite on the other side of the valley! It appears Treen hadnt been warned so we ended up on the wrong site.

Even with an inauspicious start the day turned out to be a cracker. The previous evening in the Logan Rock I’d arranged with Nick to meet at Pordenack which would give me a chance to have another go at Friends, the VS that had bested me previously.

Hot. The weather that is... not me!

With everything heating up nicely Tony and Joe set up for the tricky Nothing Much. I set off hoping that things would be easier second time around. They werent. But Friends is such a good climb. Once you are past the overhang the pressure is on to get through it. There are no good rests so by time I reached the atmospheric top out I was fairly pumped, but well chuffed to have made it clean this time.

Tony on the final section of Nothing Much

For Tony, it was straight in at the deep end on Nothing Much but he made a good fist of it, making it clean and getting Joe’s pro out, including the bit he fell on doing the difficult traverse. I think after three HVS’s in a row Joe was pretty knackered.

Me and Nick after some strenuous climbing on Immaculate Groove

Nick had his eye on an E1 on the point across the bay called Carn Boel. Immaculate Groove turned out to be just that. A brilliant technical slab leads to a brutal overhang which needs to be dealt with through jamming. Nick made the slab look straight forward, but found the crack tough on the overhang. Fair play though, he made it even if it cost a little blood. I didnt fair so well, slipping on the slab and then just running out of energy and strength when I needed it most.

So a fair trade. One nemisis conquered in Friends and another created in Immaculate Groove. I will return…

The upper section of Carn Boel, called Terrace Cliff has some meandering routes. From the bottom they look poor, but actually they offer good climbing. I’ve done Kari before which turned out to be a tough V Diff. Tom led Bitter End, another challenging climb which goes up through the heart of the cliff.

Pordenack Point from Carn Boel

And so ended another great weekend. Lots of good routes and good company.

 

Climbing

Find me something hard!

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7th September 2012
Fox Promontory

Sinister – VS 4c – Lead
Pilgrims – HVS 4c – Second

View toward Carn Barra

The scramble onto Fox Promontory is almost as much fun as the climbing. It’s definitely a good warm up as you move along the narrow ridge to the far nose. Once again you are enveloped in the ruggedness and beauty of Cornwalls coast. The view out towards Carn Barra opens up with miles of Granite climbing on display.

A busy ab point

A few of us (6 to be exact) made our way here with the thought that when it heated up, which it was going to on this day, Fox would be fairly cool being a more north facing venue. Strange how durig the cooler months you look for warm venues and then as soon as it gets hot, the search is on for shady spots.

The ab in

Finding the ab point caused us the usual problems, but most of the edges are steep and we managed not to destroy Pete’s new rope in the process.  We started again on the seaward nose with Joe and Pete on the Muzzle, me and Tom on Sinister and Chris and Dave having another go at the guano infested hairy monster that is the Whisker.

Pulling up into the groove of Sinister

The latter is given stars in the guide, but it would seem lack of traffic and nesting birds make what should be a great climb a little unpleasant in places. Still, Chris and Dave completed it this time, finishing up a tough and very dirty crack. No push over this one by all accounts.

Scouting out Pilgrims

Tom and I struggled to follow the described guidebook route, possibly because some of Sinister has fallen down. Either that or we were way of route. The mantleshelf described didnt appear to be there, but the moves around the corner and up over the flake are really good fun.

A busy belay as well

Fox Promontory is a stunning venue. Very secluded and a very different place when sunny to when its dark and grey. On this day it was brilliant, with water so clear that the seal watching us for most of the day could be seen in its entirety. Mind blowing.

Joe had been gunning for something with a bite all day and a venture up Pilgrim ticked all the boxes. After a short tantrum from me about not starting in the only damp niche on the south coast  on this day, we set off up the bottom pitch of Mistaken Identity which links more obviously with the top pitch of Pilgrims. As a complete route it works well, but doesnt make the top pitch any easier. Joe did a brilliant job leading this one. Gear is OK but the balancey nature of the climb makes placing it difficult. Lots of small crimpy holds, careful footwork makes for a top route.

Joe on the top belay of Pilgrims

Dave and Chris were on Sunshine cracks, by all accounts a slightly run out HS with some tough moves and Tom found his usual degenerating pile of choss called Foxblood which led to Pete ageing a few years prematurely as Tom ran it out.

Once again, completely knackered we trudged back to Porthgwarra. For Tom myself and Joe it would be more of the same the following day as we were staying at Treen for the BMC meet.

Climbing

On a yellow rope and a prayer

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22nd August 2012

Carn Barra

Socket Wall – Severe 4b – Lead
Crack in the Sky – E1 5b – Lead
Exodus – VS 5a – Lead

Carn Barra was our second choice of venue, from the ‘cant make a decision crew’ in the van (Tom, Dave, Chris and Pete) but as it turned out it was the right one. With a quickly dropping tide and a small swell the main platform of CB was dry and we had access to some classic routes.

Socket Wall

Socket Wall was dry and we paired up to tackle two quite tough routes, Socket Wall and Cumbelloe. Both have physical starts and although the pro is decent neither are pushovers at the grade. They turned out to be good warm up routes for what was to come.

Chris moving up Cumbeloe HS 4b

The main event for me was an attempt at Crack in the Sky. I’d been meaning to have a go at another E1 and this was a route I’d had my eye on for some time. A difficult corner leads to a ledge and then comes the strenuous stuff. At first you cant see the holds, but once you’ve committed up onto the face the holds are there.

Pete finds the wobbly chock stone
Thank god for arm bars!

When you reach the crack the jamming starts. Arm bars and fist jams help and there are some hidden edges in the crack but ultimately it is a power struggle and you need to keep going and use your feet as much as possible. I just made it with nothing left in the tank and a real sick feeling from the adrenaline rush. Amazing! One of the best climbs I’ve ever done just because of the effort it took to get to the top. Pete, after a little hesitation got stuck into CITS. The look on his face and Chris’s for that matter rivalled my own when they topped out. That top crack is great, matched equally by their smiles.

Pete fighting with the upper crack on Crack in the Sky

Meanwhile Dave and Tom were knocking off a few routes of their own. Peel Crack and Sleazy Corner to be precise. Two good V Diffs, especially Peel Crack which is atmospheric in its upper section. Both of them are growing in confidence each trip out.

Dave and Tom on Sleazy Corner a hard Difficult or V Diff in other words

 

A well earned lunch left just enough time for a quick assault on Axis and Exodus two VS’s on the higher Eastern platform. I went for Exodus which takes a line similar to Axis but branches off rightwards along a horizontal break. The traverse is great fun but there is a really tricky move up into the steep niche/crack and then another to reach the steeper ground. But its a really good climb as long as you avoid the rope drag and keep in touch with your belayer. Tom did a good job listening out for my jittery shouts, especially when my left hand cramped up due to a distinct lack of salt in my system.

Tom belaying on the Axis ledge

This whole event was capped off when Dave came up on his own because of time. Tom shimmied up Axis and Dave kept asking me to take in on blue. Typical of Sea cliffs, comms are not easy with the roar of the sea and wind. This would explain Daves suprise when I gleefully informed him that he was only on Yellow so what was the point of taking in Blue. Fortunately Dave had tied in on yellow and was past the unprotected traverse by then (all the pro was on blue). He would’nt have decked, but the swing would have been a long one!

God I love climbing.