Carn Kenidjack
2nd April 2013
Main Cliff
Saxon Direct – HVS 5a – Second
Rock Dancer – E1 5b – Lead
Seadreams Cliff
Seadreams – HS 4b – Second
Climbing in my own shoes is proving to be a novelty these days, but I got it right this time. On a bright sunny day Joe and I headed for Kenidjack to complete something we started a few years back when we visited on a rainy grim day and had to abandon our ambitions.
Kenidjack is still probably my favorite crag in Cornwall. The climbing is fantastic with crimpy holds and small edges for your feet. Not that strenuous, but it does a real job on your feet and you have to work hard.
Joe started things off on Saxon Direct. The final stage of this route angles straight up from the horizontal break rather than traversing to the block. In a way its a more natural line and makes for a spicy finish. IMO they’re both great and on this day Joe made a good job of the route. The start is quite a bold series of moves, but once on the main face the gear is OK.
Our pre placed belay ropes made things easy when Joe topped out. By this time the heat was coming off the face and the bitterly cold start was a distant memory. The stunning views across to Cape Cornwall are enough to inspire anyone so we dropped back into the zawn for a crack at Rock Dancer.
I climbed this 3 years back with Nick and remembered it was brilliant but couldnt really remember much about the route except for the mono (guaranteed to be memorable). I knew good pro was spaced. Again there is a bold start followed by steep climbing. The crux is just about adequately protected which makes the ramp a spicy prospect. All in all worth three stars in my book and equally as good as Saxon.
After some well deserved lunch it was off to Seadreams Cliff, a new venue for me. The descent is down a hole strewn grassy ridge which is obviously a hunting ground for the resident Peregrines. The ripped apart Seagul was testiment to this.
It turned out to have some good routes and well worth a return visit when the tide isnt threatening to wash over the bottom ledge. Joe finished on a really good HS. Once again small edges for our, by then, battered feet but with excellent pro. A hidden jem.
Fully knackered we decamped just as the temperature dropped. As a reminder we should park closer next time because the track is open for quite a way towards the old quarries.
