Tag Archives: Dave

Bunny Power

June 8, 2016 dillwat Leave a comment

8th June 2016

Carn Gowla

Silver Dollar – HVS 5a – Alt Lead

Well there’s a few lessons to be learned from this climb. When guidebooks refer to Carn Gowla, they are basically using a different form of climbing dictionary..

‘Generally good rock’ = ‘Some holds may remain attached to the cliff”

‘Reliable protection’ = ‘Placements will only explode after you load them’

‘Good holds’ = ‘They may break and you will plunge to your doom’

‘exhilarating climbing’ = ‘You’re going to die’

I base this upon the adventure Dave and I had tackling Silver Dollar and fantastic, if mentally draining climb on the Baptist Cliff. The abseil in sets the tone for the adventure. A long drop down a V groove which involves free descending for a way. Then having arrived at a ramp in an amazingly beautiful but overwhelming section of coast you traverse across to a large cave and the start of the climb.

From the bottom it looks intimidating. Once on it, it becomes a mental game of you vs the unreliable rock. I had the honours for the first pitch which climbs slightly rightward, angling over the cave initially and then cutting back to finish under the silver dollar.

The climbing is great, forcing shapes and moves, but none too hard. The pro is spaced and only just adequate. Of all the pieces I placed I would probably only have really trusted 3 to definitely hold.

However, the cliff forces you into a level of concentration you normally dont have to create. Move delicately, test each hold and foot placement and work your way up into a magnificently exposed part of Gowla. So good and so terrifying at the same time.

Dave set off from my only just adequate belay and moved up and around the Silver Dollar. We used the Pat Littlejohn guide and I think the route diagram is wrong in this book. It stay too far right of the dollar. The climbers club book is more accurate. As a result Dave ended up on the upper reaches of Castaway, an E1 variation. This was still brilliant climbing but was definitely more 5a than 4c and more E1 than HVS for pro. Still Dave handled it well and reached the second belay, which was effectively a pile of tottering choss. It was in keeping with the final 10 metre scramble across mounds of earth, grass tussocks, loose gravel and paper thin flakes of rock.

As I crawled over the edge onto the grass above I have never been so relieved to grad a Rabbit Burrow, which was the best hold I encountered during the whole of the last pitch. Next time, we will be placing a pre placed rope for the final section. God it was awful!

The evening’s end though was not. A setting sun, warm breeze and massive amounts of contentment and self congratulations capped of another Gowla epic. Will this place ever stop scaring me?

Steep but great climbing on Silver Dollar

Traversing to the start of Silver Dollar

Climbing

Exploding Antipodian

May 27, 2016 dillwat Leave a comment

27th May 2016

Coastguard Cliffs – The Lizard

Aboriginal Sin – E3 – Second
Casablanca – E2 – Alt Lead
Rendezous Manque – V Diff – Lead

Sometimes you have a vision of how a climb will be. I imagine myself climbing it and invent the holds, hoping they will be as good in real life. On a beautiful sunny day, Joe and I stood below Aboriginal Sin and I considered whether I was in good enough form to actually get up it.

The guidebook describes a series of juggy flakes leading to ‘the fang’ that sticks up at the end of the steeply rising and overhanging crack. Easy then! Get on it and move quickly until you can get hold of the juggy fang.

After creating a bomber nest of gear Joe launched out for the fang and as I watched him fight with the crack and eventually grab the fang, I realised that this was going to be really tough. Of course it’s not over at this point and Joe had another sequence to negotiate before it was my turn.

Now in my mind the holds were going to be positive flakes and the main problem pure grunt. No, the main problem is that the jugs are actually rounded and not positive and so my first attempt ended in some air time. The second time I was lucky that Joe kept me on a tight rope as I used my last reserves to gratefully hug the fang, gasping for air and with my poor arms blown. Of course the exploding hold which literally dissolved in my hand didn’t inspire confidence and nearly shrugged me off again. Still, I got up it in the end and what a great feeling. Brilliant lead by Joe, who is going from strength to strength.

We joined Tom and Dave who were having there own route fest, baggy some of the class VS and HVS of the main cligg. These really are good climbs, if a bit bold at times.

Happy, Happy Joe :-) — Happy, Happy Joe 🙂

My initial suggestion of a VS traverse turned into a two pitch E2 after both me and Joe liked the look of Casablanca. I led the opening 5a pitch which was great fun. Not difficult, but nervy as the gear comes late. Joes lead of the top crack was another stirling effort. My try ended up with me jammed in the crack facing the wrong way. It was only when I extricated myself and faced the right way that the finishing moves became possible. Still a really good route and maybe I’ll try the top crack on the lead next time if I’m feeling brave.

Joe and I finished up a V Diff chimney (great…?) with a laughable belay on boulders that were more likely to kill you than save you. And so at the end of a hot, sunny and memorable day it was icecreams/drinks and a contented drive home.

Uhmm. Are you an ‘inny’ or an ‘outy’

Climbing

To HVS or not to HVS

May 24, 2016 dillwat Leave a comment

24th May 2016

Kellan Head (Upper Buttress)

Un-Named – HVS 5a – Lead
Mach 3 – HVS 5a – Lead
Ink and Ointment – E1 – Second

The upper buttress is a brilliant evening location. Fairly easy to walk into, non tidal and relatively close to Newquay (relatively…).

The rock though is not the best and the climbs are fairly short. That said, this particular venture was perfect and we successfully got three good climbs in.

What I would say is that the climbs as a whole are over-graded. Take one technical grade off for a more realistic indication. The severity part is probably not too far off on Un-Named because of the poor rock quality, but again for the other two, they are well protected so maybe one grade lower here too.

That said, they are still worthwhile climbs. Un-Named heads up the crack and face of the main slab and although not hard, is insecure and requires care. Both the others are one move wonders, but they are good moves that require a bit of thought. Tom’s E1 was tricky to start and probably the most technical of the three, but again, once through the hard part it finished quickly. Mach 3 actually looks harder than it is. Get your body shape right and its a breeze…

I’ve nearly climbed this venue out in two visits. There are still three more routes to grab, so no doubt this will be another visit when the tides are all wrong.

Climbing

The patience of St Piper

April 27, 2016 dillwat Leave a comment

27th April 2016

Tater Du

Willie’s Way – HVS 5a – Alt Lead
Flake Wall – VS 4c – Alt Lead

There are times when you wonder how your body and your mind get along. The body is willing, but the mind says ‘No!’. It doesnt matter how hard you try, it is sometimes very difficult to conquer this.

the pro in the 'relatively' secure chimney/overhang — the pro in the ‘relatively’ secure chimney/overhang

Poor Dave had to watch me going through a mental epic on the overhang of Willie’s Way. I knew I could do it. I felt strong, but my head had no intentions of giving in easily.

And so I went up and went back down again numerous times before Dave gave some sound advice and said to come back down, compose myself and rest, and try again. And so on about the 7th attempt I just went for it and surprise, I made it. It was good to know that Dave also found it hard, so I had at least some justification for my hesitancy. Many thanks to Dave for being so patient and positive.

The ab in. You cant see the rock pool cleverly placed at the bottom.

We went to Tater Du because of the wind conditions and it turned out to be a good call. Sun for most of the day and good shelter. Willie’s Way has been on my ‘To do’ list for ages. Ever since I went to Tater Du with Bart and did Bus Route the adjacent V Diff. All three pitches are worthwhile with a rising degree of difficulty. The main event is the short V Chimney and capping overhang.

These are big moves on relatively big holds, but you are effectively on a 90 degree slope for the overhang. It is a case of finding the right sequence because once you commit (eventually 🙂 ) there’s no going back. But the pumpyness is short lived and the pro good. The rock looks suspect, but is solid and seems reliable. Great route and maybe I’ll do it again just to prove to myself I can get over that fear factor.

Joe going for the move over the overhang on Lamorna Wall.

Tom and Joe meanwhile were on their own epic Lamorna Wall. A fantastic looking E2 going up through the middle of the main wall. By all accounts its all about the move through the overhang which looked nails.

But the situations looked incredible. Of course this was just a prelude to Tom finding a nasty chimney to do in Fat Panda! How come Tom likes chimneys so much – I dont see the attraction lol . By all accounts this one was sparcely protected too.

Our second climb (if we were anywhere near on the right route) was Flake Wall. The first pitch parallels WW but hugging the arete with a final bold pull onto the big ledge. The guide book description says to cross the blocky overhang, so thats what Dave did. Whether it was the right overhang I have no idea, but Dave set off and encountered his own epic.

You’d think it was a lot easier than tackling the overhang direct, but the reality is that its just as committing. Same initial gear but then a wild swing out left and some awkward foot placements on the crumbling ‘flake wall’. Then its up andover. Less steep, but still lots of exposure.

So two great routes and Dave and I were both buzzing. Add to this one of the most beautiful locations in Cornwall and you have an ‘epic’ day.

Climbing

Where did that f@*!ing train come from!

April 21, 2016 dillwat Leave a comment

21st April 2016

Sennen

Slippery Slab – VS 5a – Lead
On Your Marks – HVS 5a – Alt Lead

That was basically what I was thinking as we left Sennen after a great but fairly gruelling days climbing. My body felt like it had been hit by a train – sore arms and shoulders, cuts everywhere and feeling drained.

But what a day….

Everything I’d read about Slippery Slab suggested it was great, but being self descriptive I had wanted to ensure it was in condition. So what better than a dampish day, with puddles indicating the remnants fo the previous days showers. What could possibly go wrong.

Dave, after moving off the bottom ledge and finishing the perplexing traverse.

Well route finding for a start. Dave and I both initially looked at the wrong line. The clue is the description of the high nut. The guide books are vague at best but basically do the following:-

Climb up onto the big slightly sloping ledge. Move to its back in the large V Groove and place some high gear. Then return to the bottom edge of the ledge and move right (facing in) into a much smaller hanging groove and pull up onto the slab. It takes some working out, but the holds are there as well as a camny hidden protection slot. Keep looking and you’ll find it.

I managed to blow the move up. I worked out the hard moves, got up and placed a good nut and then slid off the wet hold my left hand was perched on. So it was lower off and do it again, this time with no incidents. The rising crack is fantastic. Well protected and with loads of great moves.

Dave suffered from the same symptoms as I had, spending a while working out the moves, but eventually getting it. Warning beta! There is a jug at the end of the difficult moves so dont give up.

Having spanked ourselves on SS the obvious decision was to go looking for something even more strenuous and with a harder crux. Why not? It was Dave’s idea anyway.

So I set up for the bottom pitch of On Your Marks and proceeded to completely run out of gas and make a feeble attempt at the opening cracks (which wernt actually that bad). So Dave stepped up, announced that “Your feeble. Watch how a man does it!” and cleaned the cracks in one go. I managed to get up them on the second, thanks to Dave, so we were left with a dilema.

The second pitch had an overhang. I thought it looked technical but not too hard. Dave figured it was nails. Dave was right, but in my usual inherent stupidity I grabbed the lead and set out on an epic.

Half an hour later, with my hands and legs bleeding, my shoulders dislocated and not enough strength to hold the ropes I ended up on the ledge above the overhang. It wasnt easy, it was friggin difficult. I actually nearly made it. Pulled out of the cosy recess, pulled up into the main event and even got my foot on the rim and pulled partially over. But then I didnt spot the jug hold and that was the end of it. 4 tries later I woosed out and went left to a treacherous finish that way.

Hayloft area - On Your Marks — Hayloft area – On Your Marks

Dave then rubbed humiliation into my wound by cleaning the overhang, albeit with the red-est face I’ve seen him pull yet. Good job it was and Dave can tick another HVS lead and a good one at that.

And so ended a brilliant day, with yet more adventures ticked. The ride home was fairly quiet compared to normal. Probably because we’d both emptied the tank, but what a great feeling. I think I may have to try that overhang again 🙂

Climbing

On Belay! Just don’t fall off…..

April 17, 2016 dillwat Leave a comment

17th April 2016

Kellan Head
Hidden Amphitheatre

Gambit – Severe 4a – Alt lead

Its a shout that doesnt instil massive confidence. Mind you I should have realised this was no normal belay stance Dave was on when a football sized chunk of rock went whistling by and plummeted into the sea!

This trip turned into a great adventure. We had set off to climb a couple of fairly hard routes in the E1 range but they were still a bit out of condition. Seepage meant the opening moves were a bit dicey (no pro and wet foot placements) so we left them for next week hopefully.

Instead we went exploring. The guidebook suggests an abseil into the Hidden Amphitheatre, but there also looked to be a traverse around the point. Green and slimey in some places, but not where we climbed, it was possible to get around the nose of the zawn/bay and onto the main slab.

Its great fun, especially when you dont have a clue whats coming. As it turned out it wa a spectacular area of rock. High and a bit intimidating, but with plenty of obvious lines. It took us a while to get out bearings and sort out the routes. Still not sure about some but we did find a massive VS which looks epic. Next time though, as we were running out of light, so we settled on the Severe called Gambit to climb out.

Probably not as straight forward as the guidebook suggests. It’s described as ‘slight’ which in comparison to the other routes it probably is. But ti shouldnt be underestimated in the context of the rock, which in places is loose and unreliable.

For the most part it follows good rock and has a couple of good sections. The start of pitch two which Dave led was great, but again not easy. Well worth Severe 4a/b and possibly higher in the severity grade because the pro is there, but will it hold?

The final hanging slab gives good exposure and lots of dodgey rock. Dave’s belay was more likely to caused a cliff collapse than hold me in a fall. Still you have to work with what you have. I think I might run a rope down from the fence posts if I know we will be topping out here next time. Safer and easier.

We finished with a stunning setting sun and the whole area glowing gold as the lichen caught the suns rays. Truly amazing, but a little cold as I only had a wind stopper. So back to the car park in what must be one of cornwalls most scenic places to climb.

Tricky moves on the lower groove of Gambit

Climbing

Convenient

April 14, 2016 dillwat Leave a comment

14th April 2016

Kellan Head (Upper Buttress)

Big Dave’s Serpent – VS 4c – Second

This was a new venue for me and Dave. I have to be honest and say I didnt even know it was there. I’d heard of the Waterslide and Hidden Amphitheatre but not the upper buttress.

To be honest, the rock is not brilliant and the area is a bit green, probably through lack of traffic. It could clean up, but on some routes (Daves for example) I don’t think there is any escaping the loose rock.

Dave’s VS was not technical or difficult, in fact 4c is a bit high, but it was VS if only for the top 10ft of precarious flakes. The fact I stood over to one side describes my reaction. Still, it has some good moves, but I think the E1’s and HVS further along are probably the better climbs.

It was raining or drizzling for much of the time we were there and we got soaked on the walk out, but its a venue that’s easy to get to and non tidal so I’m sure we’ll be back shortly. And of course its in a stunning location.

Climbing

Time to go back to Skool

April 7, 2016 dillwat Leave a comment

7th April 2016

Trewarvas

Joy Direct – VS 4c – Lead
William’s Chiney – HVS 5b – Lead

Your laces should not really be an issue in climbing, unless you lose the ability to tie them. This seemed to be the case on Williams Chimney with both of mine coming undone. The Virgo in me then kicked in and I couldnt get settled until I’d re-tied them. What a faff. Back to school then where I can learn to double knot them.

Shoes aside it was a great afternoon. First time back at Trewavas for a while and two good climbs bagged.

Joy Direct is a climb I mistakenly thought I had already done. I have done Joy and I have done a variation which breaks left, but not the correct route. So this was a good one to pick. Except that it was a lot more difficult than I thought from the bottom. Gear is good, but you place it on power. The route is slight akilter, so you’re never really comfortable. And it sprobably not the best warm up as your straight into it. Still good fun, although Dave had a traumatic time trying to remove a nut stuchk on the crux. His arm’ ees were soon sorted out and I think it took the rest of the session for him to recover.

Dave approaching the chimney on Williams Chimney

Williams chimney I knew would be reasonably tough, but I didnt realise how good it was. A bit of everything- thin groove and face climbing, crimpy pulls and a narrow chimney. For me the crux was lower down negotiating the groove. For Dave it was the move into the chimney where my height probably gave me the advantage. Only just 5b and definitely more HVS than E1 which some have suggested. That said it is top of its grade.

Still a really satisfying climb and a good bit of progression in what has been a poor year so far for climbing. I now need to return and do South Groove and West Wing. A definite for my next trip there.

Climbing

Woods for the trees

March 25, 2016 dillwat Leave a comment

25th March 2016

Bosigran

Rapture – VS 4c – Tom

I dont know how many times I’ve been to Bosi and yet it still seems possible to pick up new lines, even in an area like Red Slab.

Rapture actually takes an obvious line through the overlaps, but cuts across about 4 routes in doing so, so not one to do on a busy day… It has two committing step ups but the gear in general is good and the holds are really positive. You get the full exposure of the Ding face, taking a line slightly higher than the Ding alcove but below the flake of Belle.

Its just really good climbing at the grade. The second pitch swings out wide on the flank of the wall, but Tom included the chimney of Ding to spice things up and then broke out onto a great slab near the top. This gives exposed climbing but up a friendly slab. All in all a top VS and it should have stars in the book.

Neanwhile Dave was bagging an HVS in the form of Belle, another terrific climb on this wall. This takes the higher flake which is abit more committing. Good job on this for Dave this early in the year.

Unfortunately the morning was marred by wet rock as Joe and I were unable to tackle our main objectives. Joe wanted to try Kohima and I was looking at Dolphinarium and Variety Show in the Great Zawn. Still, thats for next time.

Climbing

This takes the biscuit..ist

March 23, 2016 dillwat Leave a comment

23rd March 2016

Carn Gowla

Sluice – HVS 5a – Lead

Well this was good for a leg workout. I decided to take the right hand buttress down from the Coastguard lookout in the mistaken belief I could get to Sluice from the ‘Crystal’ section of crag. All this got me was a long walk back out with a full pack so I could drop down the other side.

The waves always create the mood on any climbing day

Then of course I lobbed my belay device into the sea (wouldnt be the same if I didnt sacrifice gear at Carn Gowla) so had to haul another one up just to ab in. Not an auspicious start. But it did get a lot better.

I arrived a bit late to find Joe on something rediculously hard and overhanging. Desire an E2 5c with a wicked strenuous crack. Nothing new there then! After sorting out a lack of a second rope, Dave and I finally got started on Sluice a strange but enjoyable HVS on the corner of the buttress. With a good swell running the whole area was pretty dramatic and Sluice added some spice being crumbly and unreliable on the hold front.

Dave nearing the top of the upper slab on Sluice

There is a short but slightly bold start which leads to a couple of ‘bomber??’ threads. Then you move up and over the overhang onto the upper slab. Its a great exposed move onto some thin foot flakes. Tread lightly as they dont take much to break as Dave found out. Then a final nervous sequence up the wall on good but strange and sharp holds. I didnt want to load them son spent most of my time getting my feet right. For our first evening out this was great fun and hopefully lots more Gowla adventures to come.

I might even go back and try Desire one day if I’m feeling particularly strong 🙂

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The Magik Rock

Tag Archives: Dave

Bunny Power

Exploding Antipodian

To HVS or not to HVS

The patience of St Piper

Where did that f@*!ing train come from!

On Belay! Just don’t fall off…..

Convenient

Time to go back to Skool

Woods for the trees

This takes the biscuit..ist

Why it never rains on a Friday!