With my confidence overflowing due to a miraculous washing machine repair job, this was a day to check out Sea Fury, a tough HVS or E1 depending on who’s climbing it. I’d not really looked at it properly before and unfortunately the intimidation factor got me on this occasion, but it looks so good from below it will be one for a little later in the year.
Sea Fury
Chris picked out Helmet Ridge Direct for his route. From below it does what many a route does. It looked straight forward. But reality led him into a route with a number of mini crux’s, each of which was awkward and challenging. Maybe worth a little more than HS imo. The adjacent climbs look equally as tough
Dave on Helmet Ridge Direct
Little Cracker was exactly that. A little cracker. A surprising find. After all the times I’ve been here I was really surprised I’d not done this before. It wasnt Sea Fury but it was a good consolation.
I last climbed Pegasus in March 2007, 16 years ago. And prior to that and unrecorded in my logbook, I climbed it with Tony H and Bart on what was probably the most adventurous climb I had ever done up to that point.
So returning with Barry, who would be in the same stage of his climbing initiation as I was, was very apt. A bitterly cold day, we managed to find a spot of warmth and sunshine, at least for part of the day. Having checked out Panda buttress and declined, the tide was low enough and the swell small enough to get on Pegasus.
I always find the first pitch more difficult that the technical grade suggests. I think its because it is nearly always a bit greasy and wet. It makes the move out of the top of the groove just that bit insecure. But I did remember the ‘secret’ hold, which sorted me in the end after I’d told myself off for dithering.
From then on it was plain sailing. The slab pitch didn’t disappoint. Its one of the best pitches at its grade anywhere imo. Amazing exposure, good holds and just generally all around fun. The hard move is just that. Harder than anything else on the climb. Many give it 4c and I wouldn’t argue with that. I think there is an easier and more difficult way to tackle it. However one feels a lot bolder than the other. Barry did a fine job of getting through it (the bold way) and it wrapped up a fantastic adventure.
Smug we were having completed one of Cornwall’s more iconic routes. And we finished in sunshine. Luck was with us on this day.
Doorway – Severe 4a – Alt Lead (P1) Doorpost – HS 4b – Alt Lead (P2)
This was an occasion for re-visiting some old favourites and picking up on the theme of doors, we opted for two absolute classics.
End of Pitch 1 Doorpost
To be fair it was great to just spend time on the rock and both routes are challenging enough to keep you sharp. I absolutely love climbing at Bosigran. It was one of the first places Bart ever took me when we started climbing. And what a revelation it was. I remember doing Andrew and realising that climbing was going to be the source of my adventures going forward.
F#@k surfing and crowds with bad attitude.
Chris leading Pitch 1 Doorpost
Here you can be with mates in the solitude of some of the most beautiful parts of Cornwall surrounded by good vibes and excitement. I have said before that it gives me the same buzz as I had when I started surfing back in the 80’s with no crowds and just mates for company.
Having fun on Doorpost
Sat on a belay ledge 200ft up a cliff makes you reflect on these things and realise how lucky you are. I think I’ll always think of myself as foremost a surfer, but the reality now is that I climb a lot more than I surf.
Crack of Doone – HS 4b – Lead Crack of Noone – HVS 5a – Second (dnf) Icarus – HS 4a – Lead
There’s nothing like being upstaged by a goat. It was a real surprise to me to see goats wandering casually about on the face of the crag we were about to go climbing on. I falways find it bewildering how goats have such agility on steep ground. They do not look built for it and their hooves are not exactly ‘five-tens’.
Crack of Doone on Devils Cheesewring
Anyway, I’m getting ahead of myself because we saw them on Icarus the last climb of the day. I spent the night at Tarka Trail Camping, not cheap (£18) for me and a small tent, but good facilities and a soft flat pitch. It was a late dinner, but sat watching the stars while munching on my pasta and pesto was brilliant.
Devils Cheesewring in the background
As a starter we set off for Crack of Doone, a fairly innocuous looking rock pillar which delivered a surprisingly tough Hard Severe. The start of this climb is steep. Good holds and pro, but you have to work hard to get established and it doesn’t let up until you gain the main ledge. I had a little wobble trying to get over the final face. Committed… stopped…tried to reverse… that wasnt happening…. so went for it. And made it thankfully. My head still isnt quite in the right place, but climbing with Joe has certainly helped it in the right direction.
Crack of Noon on Castle Rock
it was Joe’s turn next to pick a beast of a VS. An overhanging jamming crack. Great, a combination of everything I’m shit at. This was going to go well then. Joe, on the lead of course, made it look a lot easier than it was. I however made it look a lot more difficult than it was. Cant jam, puny muscles equals failure. But I will be back when in better condition and give it a good spanking.
Our Goat friends
For me, the highlight of the trip was Icarus. Some bush bashing was required to get in as you come at the climb from below. I suppose you could ab in, but this was more fun, especially with the goats for company. Icarus starts off fairly straight forward. A couple of awkward moves need to be made to get established on the face. But then the exposure kicks in as well as a couple of spicy moves as you move up a slab on its left edge. Feels proper out there and is so much fun The crux for me was the traverse at the top. You leave your last couple of small wires behind and teeter around the seaward face on a ledge which feels very precarious despite being quite large. It because you are pushed out and the potential for barn dooring off is always there. It also goes on for longer than expected. But what a great finish to a superb climb. A real highlight.
Icarus – HS 4a with the left arete leading to the overhang
Valley of Rocks is a venue I intend to get back to. Lots of low grade routes and a beautiful area. Would be a good day out with the boys. Or get back up here for another 2 dayer with Joe.
Central Groove – HS 4b – Lead Mambo Slab – V Diff – Lead
Climbing as a foursome, with one leader is always going to lead to a considerable amount of faff. The art of using 3 ropes isn’t easy either. On a single pitch you can get away with it. On a multi pitch with a snug belay… well to describe it as carnage would be accurate.
Tony below the impressive corner of Central Groove
For Tony, it was a return after a long absence. He is pretty much a natural climber though, due to his tree-surgery work. However to plunge him into a multi pitch was quite an introduction.
Tony on Central Groove
Mambo Slab is nothing exceptional. It has a tricky lower section because of polish, but overall fits the grade. It was why I thought Central Groove would be a good call. Follow average with amazing. And it duly delivered. But with a bit of a sting. Rigging a belay to accommodate 4 people was tough and despite careful planning, everything went out the window at the first possible moment. This led to coils of rope everywhere, kit scattered between all of us and a failed attempt for an orderly departure onto the second pitch.
Dave nonchalantly finishes laybacking the final corner of the second pitch of Central Groove.
Still, it was fun and by time we ended (with a very late lunch at 4.30) everyone was smiling, and also a lot more familiar with each other.
Climbing seems to be becoming a very intermittent activity for me at the moment. So it was really good to get out with Chris and get back on the rock.
The blank looking 2nd Pitch
A return to a classic is always worthwhile and Right Angle is unmistakably a classic. Never hard, but continually interesting with three distinct sections. A fairly juggy and contorted first pitch, leads to an unlikely second with a bare looking wall 9if you do the variation VS version which tbh feels no harder than the original line). And then of course you have the vertical corner pitch. Glorious climbing in a great position.
Chris’s hanging belay
We only did the one route. It seemed enough on the day. I think sometimes you just have to make the most of a route like RA. Chatting with the Royal Marines added some interest. What an amazing job they have, although I wouldn’t fancy it in times like this.
The grand final corner
So Chris and I are going to revisit some classics now. Check back through the log book and pick up on some of the early routes we did when we were ‘learning the ropes’. Oh yes. And 40m ropes are not quite long enough. 50’s are better for RA.
Memento/London Bridge Combo – VS 4c – Lead Onsight Chico – HS 4b – Second Zeppo – VS 4c – Lead
Last time at CBS Chris and I got terribly lost. I knew from the guide book that there were plenty of mid grade routes, but we didnt seem to find them. So we returned intending to get our bearings and get on a few of them.
The ab in
Well, getting our bearings using the guide book descriptions wasnt easy. For some mad reason the guide just ignores the blatently obvious features of the crag and does the usual ‘ to the left of the rounded arete’ or ‘just right of the obvious crack’. Well what about the fucking obvious massive chimney, or the huge jammed boulder or even better the startling diagonal quartz vein that slices through the top of the buttress.
Christ they make it hard. Even when we did find the routes, the descriptions still didnt tally properly. At least not in a clear way. So I’ve added some topos here which might help us if we go again in the future.
Topo as far as we could make out???
The described line for Memento looks highly unlikely at VS and I didnt go near it. 6 metres of unprotected tricky climbing doesnt seem in keeping with the grade. Two alternatives look better. Continue up a further two metres and go left at a horizontal break which may provide pro or go up the left hand side of the chimnet (again looks quite tough) but there are places for nuts/small cams. Then go right at the large ledge below the trapped boulders.
Chris on the top section of Memento
My combo was entertaining and the top part is nice climbing. The bottom is gritty and fragile but this is in keeping with many of the routes.
Chico and Zeppo were similar in difficulties. Harder at the starts and then pleasant climbing. But both are short and divided by a large ledge. Be aware that Zeppo now has a nice hold at the top thanks to the original rock fracturing and a large rock detaching. Fortunately not with me hanging on 🙂
Will return to do the harder routes once my fitness is fully back. But a nice venue to spend a day.
Down Under, Up Top – VS 4c – Second Aoetearoa – HS 4b – Second Colonial Solidarity – Severe 4a – Lead Boomerang – HVS 5a – Lead
Three always sounds like a problematic number when your climbing and if it involves multi-pitch routes I’d agree. But we’ve been finding three a good sociable number and todays shared adventure was a pleasure from start to finish.
Looking down Down Under zawn
I,ve spent a fair few weeks exploring Preddanck Head with Dave, but this was the first for Chris and although Tom’s been there a few times this was his first outing in Down Under Zawn. And for me, I had a couple of routes in mind, both of which were new. This early in the year I never quite know where I’m at with stamina and strength, so I knew Boomerang would be a test.
April in Cornwall is a special time of the year. The Gorse is in full flower, with its Coconut and Buttery flavour, Pink Campion is all around and everything just feels fresh. New beginnings. Its inspirational, which I’m sure spurs your overall sense of wellbeing along.
Chris on Aoetearoa. On the amazing flake.
So where to begin. I knew both Aoetearoa and Down Under, Up Top would be classics for Chris and Tom and despite having climbed them a few times I never tire of the routes. Chris is on form at the moment and sailed through both. The vid below time captures DUUT and gives an idea of how good the route is.
For me, I found a little gem in Colonial Solidarity. Although Severe it packs a punch. A burly opening move leads into a crack which provides great climbing. Steep and entertaining.
Tom working his way up Colonial Solidarity
But Boomerang was my main target. I had a feeling it might be a bit beefy for me and after a tricky scramble to get to the starting block, I looked up to have my beliefs confirmed. It was going to be beefy. From below you can see the curved line but it is obviously overhanging at the top crack. Gear looked good and with Crack Gloves on, I set off.
Chris psyching up for Boomerang…… or not!
Its one of those climbs where each time you think ‘This is it, I’m off’ another hold appears. Lots of hidden juggy rails and crimps. It was a case of keep moving and hope the stamina stays there. And it did 🙂 In the end it went well. No really desperate moments, and I always felt safe. A really good tick and a climb I can thoroughly recommend.
Cosy belay of Boomerang
The way off is by means of an abb with a rope thrown around a rock bollard. You conveniently arrive back in the zawn just above DUUP. So it would have been churlish for Chris not to have led it.
Toms home made crack gloves
What I can also say is that COVID seems to have had a devastating affect on the local pub population. Looking for somewhere for a pint on the way home proved difficult with pub after pub looking derelict and shut. Lets hope some of these get back going again.
Overhanging Chimney – VS 4c – Alt Lead (P1) Maureen – HS 4B – Alt Lead (P1, P3)
I suppose £5 isn’t too bad for parking at Porth Gwarra. But I am parking charge averse so it still hurts a bit. Having said that it went up to £7.50 if my mind is correct at some point so as long as they don’t blatantly profiteer I’m ok with it.
Looking across at the pinnacle of Maureen
More importantly it means less distance to walk in and on this occasion (lugging the abseil rope unnecessarily for the second time) I’m gald. Having researched the bird ban situation properly this time we headed for Bulging Wall, which inst currently barred. You go past the nesting Kittiwakes and what I am sure is a nesting Chough in Zawn Rinney, but the main area of cliff is bird free as far as I could tell.
Chris breaking through the overhang of Overhanging Chimney
The gearing up ledge on the right of the zawn is always a pleasure. Overlooking Carn Guthenbras and the seal colony it is a breath-taking view. One I never grow tired of. Its easy to take for granted the splendour of the area. On this day a couple of fishing boats cruised by with a huge flock of various seabirds in their wake. Something I’ve seen many times but which always brings a smile. Why catch your own fish when people are giving it away 🙂
So, onto the climbing. Of course Overhanging Chimney was a good choice to start on. Its overhanging so how hard could it be? Well the clue is in the name. Its fucking overhanging! But what a great find. Lots of moves to be had on this one on the lead up slab and then over the overhang, which isnt too bad if you keep moving. Not that its over then. Whats nice about this climb is that the granite is sharp and positive. No polish here. A bit of a hidden gem I think.
Zawn Rinney
Maureen is entirely different. Its still a worthwhile climb. The first pitch again is blessed with fun moves, but P2 is an enigma. I think there are multiple ways of tackling this one. Two obvious parallel crack lines go up the pinnacle. The right is harder than the left, but the left is no push over at 4b. Hairy, awkward and needing quite large gear, you need to be on your game. Chris was punished by a set of hard moves at the start of the right hand crack system so quickly moved left to a more amenable route. Again good thoughtful moves and if you can jam it makes it a lot easier.
Chris high in the left hand cracks of Maureen
A quick round of self congratulations and Chris and I were done for the day and pretty knackered. The South West continues to deliver.
Gelert – HS 4b – Second Pudsey – VS 4c – Lead Doc – HVS 5b – Lead
So after Lockdown number 2, Chris and I finally got out for a days climbing. This last batch of lockdown has seemed increasingly drawn out. Coronavirus continues to dog the world, tearing up the norm and replacing it with some form of twisted altered life… similar to before but not quite the same.
Black Carn South
As Chris climbed into my car, I couldn’t help but catch myself thinking ‘is this safe? Am I doing the right thing?’. That’s what 12 months of isolation does to you. Its the new norm. Every decision has the virus at its root. But is it more dangerous than climbing? Not today it wasnt! As usual Chris and I set out for a relaxed ‘re-connection’ with climbing, but in usual fasion it turned into an epic. And why not 🙂
Being fairly rusty on all things at the crag, our first dilemma was whether Chair Ladder was bird banned. BMC RAD advised it was from Lacertian to Mitre. Where the hell is Lacertian. We didn’t find out on the day but after a bit of research we figured it must have meant Laceration. Didn’t really matter in the end, because we headed off for some Black Carn shenanigans.
Belay of Gelert HS 4b
Repeats of Gelert and Pudsey followed, rekindling the climbing vibe. Interestingly I found the scramble in and around the crag equally as enjoyable. It was just good to be hands on granite. Black Carn is a lovely secluded location. Drop down by the wall and then angle across bouldery ground for a neat little area with steep and pristine granite.
Fancy a swim?
Feeling confident, Chris and I headed over to the zawn on the South side, an area we’d not been to. Some tricky scrambling leads down to an amazing gulley with a sort of massive chock stone. This creates a pool behind but is just a lid allowing the water to flow under it. Very cool and a definite location for a swim when the sea warms a bit. As a potential practice for the Cuillin we thought that trying the ‘easy’ V Diff corner we had spotted would be perfect.
Ian Jumps!!
Doh! Not V Diff. Turns out it was Doc, an HVS 5b. In approach shoes. I did my best to look thoroughly terrified as I tried to top out way above my gear. Gone were any ethics on knees, teeth and any other part of my body that could grip the rock. A seal flop onto the top gave me enough respite to place gear and finish off with a little more elegance. Still I’d rather be lacking in style and alive. So much fun. That’s type 3 fun.
Chris Moving up Doc HVS 5b
Nursing our scars and cuts Chris and I ambled back to the car with that stupid contented grin you only get when things have pushed you beyond. Fuck COVID. I can find much more interesting ways to kill myself if I want to.
Why it never rains on a Friday!
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