Tag Archives: HS

David Blane… ‘eat your heart out’

June 3, 2016 dillwat Leave a comment

3rd June 2016

Screda Point

Needle Direct – VS 4b – Lead
Seabreeze – HS 4a – Second
Tourist Trap – E1 5b – Lead (dnf) T/R

Neither Nick or I have any concept of how long it actually takes to get to the Culm. We were both 45 minutes late and arrived within a few minutes of each other. Doh! Obviously tuned in on the same wavelength.

The drive up to Hartland is lovely and the lanes leading through the village and out to the quay were decked in purple rhododendron and vivid green trees showing their new leaves. Quite spectacular. Of course you then drop down to the quay itself which has its own splendor, this time with stark rock outcrops and prehistoric jagged runnals heading out to the sea.

Screda Point sits to the South and is only a short walk away. We decided to ab in so that our gear wasnt at the bottom (a good decision that one) and head straight out to the outer fin where an HS and VS lurked. Both turned out to be great routes. The Needle Direct was a well protected and tricky route up the centre of a slab. Fantastic climbing with a real out there feel because of the isolation of the fin. Nick’s HS also had a character of its own. Following the arete and then breaking out onto the slab it was a cool peer for the VS.

Casting a shadow on the great moves of Needle Direct

The tide was chasing all the way though and we left as the waves started surging up the runnals toward the main face. Just enough time for me to bag an E1 in order to get to the grassy saddle… or not???

The start of the E1 was fine but I soon found myself high up with just a micro and a difficult move. The combination was enough to stop me in my tracks and with the water lapping at Nicks feet we opted for a me to downclimb and both of us to shimmy up the ab rope on prussics. So it was a lower off to fetch the gear and then a climb out.

Of course I couldnt help but try to impress Nick with my magic tricks. David Blane makes planes disappear into nothingness. I make quickdraws and runners disappear into the sea in a blink of an eye. Impressive huh? The trick is to switch off your brain, use a bit of thuggery on a stuck nut and not bother attaching it to your rope. That way it cartwheels into the ocean and its possible to just stand there and look really stupid…

When will I learn. So with Nick safely up the route as well, we called it a day fairly early and so ended a brilliant session and a good return to ‘business as usual’ for me and Nick. Lets hope for loads more days like that in the near future.

Nick starting up Tourist trap just above the tide mark

Climbing

Who yanked our chain

June 27, 2015 dillwat Leave a comment

27th June 2015

Cheesewring Quarry

Figuzzi – HS 4b – Alt Lead
Sunset Arete – VS 4c – Lead
Simanon Direct – HVS 4c – Lead

Cheesewring quarry has not been the site of many classic days for me. In the main, when I rock up here it turns out to be damp, dank and unpleasant. Thats not to say the venue isnt good, I just dont catch it when its good.

Mt expectations for this day were therefore on the low side, so when Dave and I started off on a slightly bold and polished first pitch of Figuzzi I thought ‘Here we go again’. I’m pleased to say I was entirely wrong.

Dave searching for gear where there is none.. Figuzzi

The first pitch delivered better climbing as it progressed. Yes a bit bold, but good moves and position. The second pitch was a classic moving into unlikely territory and gaining in exposure and steepness. The final moves past the overhang were brilliant on big jugs and and with a nice void opening up below.

So, there was only one thing for it. Sunset Arete. Again, looking OK, but delivering much more. This too gets into steep and exciting ground, with some classic reaches and moves and you get onto the steep upper face. Two good un’s down, one to go.

Towards the return traverse on Simanon Direct.

And boy did we save the best for last. Dave’s confidence had been growing as we climbed, so my suggestion of ‘Let’s go and do the really bold HVS around the corner’! was greeted enthusiastically., if a bit nervously. ‘You can do two pitches Dave’ was met with equal joy.

As it happened it was an epic. The first pitch is harder than it looks, needing some thistle negotiaition and a couple of technical mantleshelves to reach the dubious anchor of ‘the chain’. With a screwgate on this and a dodgy cam in, it was a terrific belay from which to launch an assault on the bold traverse pitch 2. A Crux mantle, followed by smearing out across the ramps (one small nut available) and then traverse back placing loads of crappy cams for mental security. Finally another mantle to the big ledge and a big sigh of relief to replace the nervous giggles.

Daves face said it all as he appeared on the ledge with me. ‘Fuck me!’ was my greeting which I totally understood… Lucky Dave got the final rising flake crack, whicg makes the whole climb really worthwhile. Its just as good as it gets. High, exposed and immaculate moves. Enough to put a smile on the face of two weary climbers at the end of my first proper good session at the ring.

I think I might go back 🙂

Climbing

The new improved moving belay….

April 6, 2015 dillwat Leave a comment

6th April 2015

Carn Barra

Weasle – VS 4c – Lead
Sea Fox – HS 4b – Second
Rapido – E1 5a – TR

When you anchor yourself in at the top of a climb the most reassuring aspect is the ‘imouveable’ feeling of the rock around you. There again, you can find yourself in among a heap of large fairly unstable boulders which you can re arrange to construct a sort of bespoke belay. “I think I’ll have a rock here” and “actually that boulder might be better at this angle”.

The stack above Rapido and Sea Fox was just this kind of jumble. Safe, but slightly disconserting when a 2 ton boulder moves around a bit.

My list above doesnt include two very steep routes which Joe and Tom spent the day on. Mean Street a hard E4 and Sunny Corner Lane and equally hard E3. Probably too much for me and Dave, but after their recent training regime, Tom and Joe tackled them with relish.

Dave and I went exploring down the South end of Carn Barra. I’d always intended to repeat Weasle and the distant memory of exposed commiting moves past the overhung corners soon came flooding back. This really is a totally underated route. For VS it is very good value, probably being nearer 5a and def close to HVS. The excellent pro probably makes it VS but dont let this fool you. It’s still scary…

So returning to the platform we set off on a fun sea level traverse with the small waves washing around our feet. A quick chimney above a rock pool led to a hidden area and Sea Fox. This follows two steep 90 degree corners, needing a fair amount of lay backing and trusting your feet. It is a bit crunchy at the top, but otherwise is a great climb. It probably needs more traffic to tidy it up.

Rapido - Follows the right hand arete — Rapido – Follows the right hand arete

Rapido is a technical E1. Not strenous or pumpy it has a couple of balancey moves around 5a. The reason it is given E1 is because the first pro of any value is at half height and although the flake provides placements I’m not sure I’d trust them. This is why we top roped it! It is one that I know I could lead fairly easily, but its one I never will (because I dont want to die). The slightly unreliable holds adds the final dimension to a good but lethal route.

Carn Barra continues to deliver. Maybe next time I’ll get on Illustrated Man and tick that one. Who knows.

Climbing

Little guns….. “Meet the Beak”

March 20, 2015 dillwat Leave a comment

21st March 2015

Porth Loe Buttress

The Beak – E1 5b – Lead (dnf)
Times Remembered – HS 4b – Lead

This was well and truly the first proper day of spring. Equinox, Eclipse, New Moon. And mega sunshine.

The conditions transpired to make Porth Loe Buttress appear to be the best venue in Cornwall. There is a stunning backdrop across towards Carn Guthenbras, the sea was an amazing blue and the granite immaculate. Add good friends and it was just perfect.

We’d never been here before and yet we’ve walked past it loads. Probably because of the more major attractions of Fox Prom and Carn Bara. The descent is down a narrow steep grassy gully with a cool gearing up ledge. The final section is climbable, but more relaxed on a short abb. The platform at the bottom provides a spectacular location with a few really good clims.

Dave and Chris set off on Eileen and multi pitch severe on the left looking towards the cliff. A bit damp, it nevertheless looked very good and challenging. High in the grade I think.

Tom, Joe and I set up for The Beak which I was lucky (unlucky maybe) enough to get to lead both pitches. The first is some tricky manouvering into a great crack. Layback and commit and you’re OK. The top pitch is mental thuggery. A hard groove leads to a massive overhang Both I and Joe looked at the actul beak, but this seemed really unlikely at 5b, and the description of ‘well protected’ in the guide is a loose one. Yes there is gear in the bottom face of the o/h but once up into the beak there is nothing and you’d take a pretty good lob.

I found a flake just left of the beak which seemed more positive and protectable. Good job really because after 15 determined attempts I fell off. Thankfully Tom caught me but it was still freaky and lead to the loss of much skin. I just couldnt do it… not quite strong enough, but very close. I was within a whisker of making it.

Tom suffered from the same problem as me, but Mr Muscles Joe cranked through it remarking that he’d wished he’d ‘warmed up a bit’.

Times Remembered is great. The top giant flakes are hard to unlock and pro is sparce, but the climbing is engrossing. More importantly the view across to the couple of idiots on the Eastern Buttress provided grand entertainment. There was a reason the big rock at the base of the climb was wet… it’s called the sea and Chris very nearly became intimate with it on this day. We were having bets on how long they’d last, but to be fare it did look very exciting. Adds a new spice to the climb when there is the chance you could be doing it underwater.

So what a day. One of those that will stick for a while and one that just makes you want more and more.

To good friends……

Climbing

Feb! Really?

February 6, 2015 dillwat Leave a comment

6th February 2015

Black Carn North

Gelert – HS 4b – Lead
Pudsey – VS 4c – Second
Wasp Pant Terror – HVS 4c – Lead
Cro Magnon Man – E2 5b/5c – TR Dogged

With the cold snap continuing we knew we needed somewhere out of the wind and preferably in the sun. Favorable tides also meant we could explore some of the less well known venues around Porthgwarra which would be on the lee side.

I keep walking past these locations thinking that ‘one day I’ll check them out’. On this occasion, armed with some exploration knowledge we picked up last time we went to Carn Barra, we dropped down to Black Carn North.

Its a tricky descent at first crossing some pretty loose ground and a gulley which is steep. Once onto the seaward rocks its OK though. If you go, drop down before the obvious wall and keep to the right of the gulley. Then follow rocks down and around to the right facing out to sea. You’ll eventually get there.

The obvious attractive line on this small but friendly crag is Pudsey. An angled line across the face below Cro Magnon the elephant in the room. As it happens its not the best despite appearances. My favorite on the day was Gelert. Great moves for HS and a good thoughtful move into the upper crack.

Chris not suffering from Wasp Pant Terror.

Pudsey is all about a couple of moves fairly low down, although it looks harder. Chris made short work of it. Good, but no cigar. The weird looking and sounding Wasp Pant Terror proved quite good with a couple of great mantleshelves and a final bold series of moves to the top. I really enjoyed it. Not strenuous, but quite technical.

I'm sure I know what this is for???? — I’m sure I know what this is for????

Of course Joe had his eye on the main obstacle on the crag Cro Magnon Man. I can see why they call it this. The top has an uncanny prehistoric look to it. The moves though are great. Crimpy and thin on the lower face, it finishes with slopers which are just waiting for the unwary. I of course was one of the unwary’s. I thought I had it but as I barn doored off I realised it needed a bit more thought. Second attempt I unlocked it using a finger jam to keep my balance. Not one for the tall as you get compressed into a ball! Fun though.

This is a crag to come back to next winter when we’re looking for a sheltered spot. I’m sure there are more routes to find here so I might do a bit more exploring next time I’m over there and cant climb because of conditions.

Climbing

Tolkeins World

April 25, 2014 dillwat Leave a comment

25th April 2014

The Dewerstone

Central Groove – HS 4b – Alt lead
Silken Thread/Imperialist – HSV 5a – Lead

The Dewerstone is a long haul from Newquay but its worth it and on a day of repeats like these your time and money are well spent.

Central Groove is undeniably one of the best HS’s around and Dave got his chance to lead P1 which is just awesome. There were a few other climbers around on this day, but dont get me wrong, it wasnt busy. I still get a real feeling of being in place that was created from a novel like LOTR. Twisted trees, thick lichen, bird song and the sound of the river all add to the impression.

Climbing up through the canopy is always fun and sat on the belay ledge while Dave brought up Tom, I got the chance to just savour the whole experience. I dont think there is anywhere better to be in the world when you get days like this.

I knew Silken Thread/Imperialist would get my blood flowing. It feels bold to start and the entire first pitch seems off balance. Its a good route though and the second pitch exposed my lack of strength training this year. Time to beef up a bit me thinks.

A nice snooze on the way back made the trip quick. Tom’s new car is too comfortable, thats the problem.

Climbing

Going it alone

November 28, 2013 dillwat Leave a comment

28th November 2013

Sennen

No Number – VS 5a – Lead
Monday Face – VS 4c – Second
Overmarked – HS 4a – Lead
Sinners Route – Diff – Solo
Juniors Route – Diff – Solo
Seniors Route – Diff – Solo

Damp conditions alwyts temper how you approach a days climbing. Despite a favourable forecaste Sennen was slow to dry on this day and as a result we throttled back on our grades.

Having said that, No Number, my opening route prooved more than a challenge for the conditions. Holds full of water, moist cracks (oooh errr) and unreliable foot placements made it full on. The rising run of flakes is slightly overhanging and therefore fairly strenuous until you reach the base of the upper cracks. Great climbing, but the twin crack finish wasnt on for this day. They were running with water so I detoured onto No Name for a much easier but spectacular finish.

Monday face has all the holds but needs a steady head. Pro is tricky to come by and the strenous positions make it akward to place. Chris enjoyed this one. An ideal route for the conditions. Meanwhile Dave and Tom were on SkrewCrack, which again was probably worth another grade given the conditions. A good lead by Dave who’s consolidating his grades nicely.

Chris on No Number and Dave on Skrewcrack

Overmarked is a weird route. Its basically a couple of moves through an overhang, but is really powerful for a short period. Get your body shape wrong and its a lot more difficult as Chris and I both found.

Unusually for the two of us, Chris and I ended the day with a bit of soloing. Only on the diffs in the Church Window area but it certainly adds a buit of spice to your climbing. What would ordinarily seem simple suddenly becomes a major issue. That said, I think it is good for your climbing as you end up concentrating on just the climbing without all the paraphanalia that normally accompanies leading.

Dolphins! Guaranteed to put a smile on your face.

Very refreshing and the sight of Dolphins just makes you feel good to be alive.

Climbing

Normal service is resumed…

November 22, 2013 dillwat Leave a comment

22nd November 2013

Coastguard Cliff – The Lizard

Silent Movie – VS 4c – Lead
Quo Vadis – E1 5a -Lead
Sirius – HS 4b – Second

After what has seemed to be forever the bright weather came back. Friday turned out to be clear skies and little wind. The south facing Coastguard Cliff provided the perfect warm, sunny venue for Dave, Tom and myself.

Moody Coastguard Cliff's — Moody Coastguard Cliff’s

Dave and I had had a couple of outings to Hawks Tor in the rain and fog, but on each occasion the weather limited our efforts. This time we could go for it with dry positive rock. I’d done Silent Movie with Chris and remembered how good it was. A committing climb where you need to hunt out pro. But the holds are excellent and the climbing thrilling and exposed.

Having warmed up it was straight onto Quo Vadis. I figured with the bunch of crocks I was with I’d better pick a jug hauling route rather than a finger stretcher. QV provided this. It has two crux’s. The first is a thuggy haul over an overhang ontothe face. The second is a delicate rising crack which can be tackled in a number of ways.

Tom showing he's got balls - Quo Vadis — Tom showing he’s got balls – Quo Vadis

Tom and I laid back and Dave went out onto the face to the crimpier holds. Both ways are great and the climb overall is worth doing. Typical of the venue. Strenuous start followed by face climbing. It also provided one of our best photos of Tom in the crack. Really exciting and reflects everything about the day.

Dave wanted to get back into leading and took on both pitches of Sirius. This is also a really cool climb. Exposed with two contrasting pitches. A juggy but exposed traverse, followed by a more technical slab. It was a good lead as the climb is tricky throughout.

It was a fitting end to a brilliant return to climbing ways. Cornwall as usual delivered on the ‘spectacular beauty’ front. The booming surf added to the atmosphere and provided lots of distraction when you heard a set thunder in sounding like it was going to engulf you. We are so lucky!

Tom about to traverse into the crack Quo Vadis

Tom after the opening strenuous moves on Silent Movie

Climbing

It’s behind you!!!!

July 5, 2013 dillwat Leave a comment

5th July 2013

Carn Kenidjack

Seadreams Cliff and The Main Face

Seadreams – HS 4b – Lead
Great Central – Severe 4a – Lead
The Shield – E1 5a – Lead

The first time anyone goes to Carn Kenidjack it has the same wow effect on them. A near vertical wall which at first glance looks featureless is an intimidating sight. For four of the team on this day it was their first time and I’m sure it didnt disappoint.

We started on the Seadreams Cliff thinking we had plenty of tide and that there was little swell. Wrong on both counts I’m afraid. Plenty of swell which kept washing up the ramp below the routes and threatening to engulf our feet. Chris and I went haring off up a route each thinking that we’d only get one in, only to find we had time for a second and had only succeeded in cocking up the rotating leads. Oh well, it turned out well for me which is the important thing. 🙂

A killer belay..... at least it will be when that rock lands on Chris! — A killer belay….. at least it will be when that rock lands on Chris!

Both routes on the Seadreams cliff were good if a bit short in stature. We all got a crack at both pitches. Seadreams is the better of the two, but with a stunning view across to Cape Cornwall both seemed brilliant on this day. The pushing tide was threatening to swamp someone on the ramp. Chris as the last man standing confidently watched a surge miss him on the cliff side without realising that it nearly got him from behind although he was totally oblivious to this.

The it was time for the main event! We down climbed into Kenidjack. Its steep and is intimidating at first, but secure enough if you are confident. As you walk into the amphitheatre you suddenly realise how magnificent the main face is. A shear wall that seems blank at first but is full of holds and cracks.

First view of the main face for the crew.

Chris and Dave set up for Saxon Direct. This is probably my favorite climb of all time. It has everything. It seems unlikely at the grade but as it unfolds you realise there are holds a plenty. Gear can be hard to find unless you think carefully. It’s there, but it takes some finding.

Dave at the horizontal crack before the tough top wall of Saxon Direct

The same could be said for the Shield. The bottom pitch has spaced gear but its good. The climbing is pretty good too and no pushover. Tom and Pete seemed to really enjoy this pitch and we all ended up at a very cosy belay. From here the character of the climb changes. No longer good gear and larger holds. Now it becomes small crimpy holds and foot placements and poor gear for about 10 metres.

A very relieved me after getting through the bold section of P2 The Shield

Once you get to the groove of Thane there is something and you can breathe a sigh of relief. Up to that point the motto is ‘dont fall off’. We all made it though and a very satisfied team collected at the gearing up ‘hole’ to pat each other on the back a recollect at what was an amazing day.

Cornwall delivers again with excitement, beauty and in our case, comradery.

Pete working his way up the technical upper wall.

Dave setting out onto the main wall on Saxon.

Chris working his way up the brilliant Saxon.

Some of the tricky moves at the end of pitch 1 The Shield

The team take on Kenidjack. Chris on Saxon, me on The Shield.

Chris after the tough bouldery start to Saxon

Me contemplating the start of The Shield. Now where have those holds gone?

Stunning spring blooms – and I dont mean Tom and Dave.

Climbing

Just let it go……… FAT CHANCE!!!

May 24, 2013 dillwat Leave a comment

24th May 2013

Pedn-men-an-mere

Zip – VS 4c – Lead
Panos – HS 4b – Second
Bandwagon – E1 5b – Lead
Midnight Express – E1 5b – Lead (dog)

A brilliant day marred by my nemesis which as usual bit me on the arse.

Sheltered from the wing St Levans Wall was the perfect venue. With a good low tide we had plenty of time to play on the climbs on the lower tier as well.

To start though I had a go at Zip a VS with a tough start. I keep forgetting that VS are not there to warm up on and this one as usual reminded me of that as I struggled up the initial crack to be halted at a slightly bold mantleshelf. I actually enjoyed it though, the same of which can be said for Chris.

He started on Panos, an HS with a bite. The opening V goove isnt easy but the top move onto the pillar is made spicy if you stay right which seems to take you away from anything useful to pull over on. Tom and Dave intelligently went left which seemed a far more amenable finish. Still, one to get the heart going.

Bandwagon looks good from below and it didn’t disappoint. Good delicate climbing which requires good footwork and a steady head through the crux. Just our type of route really and we both loved it.

And so to the finale. What could go wrong after such a good start. Midnight Express beckoned me, and proceeded to teach me a lesson in humility and trash my bank account at the same time as 5 of my Nuts cascaded into the deep water filled trough below. Thats my third attempt. Its got to be fourth time lucky?