Songs from a Gentle Man – VS 4c – Lead The Peoples Queen – VS 4c – Lead Dolphin Surprise – HS 4b – Lead Songs from a Broken Heart – VS 4c – Lead The Womb Tomb – Severe – Second
Despite our round about route to The Lizard via St Erth (caused by our usual indecision) this turned out to be a good choice. 2013 is going to be the year of the never ending winter. Lots of sun on this day, but accompanied by a cold North Westerly which we were fortunate to be sheltered from.
Gearing up.
We managed quite a few climbs on this day. With all the routes being single pitch and access very easy we were up and down all day. Dave and I kicked off on a cracker called Songs from a Gentle Man, a route which follows an exposed arete. It looks bold at first but there’s gear where you need it. The rock is fragile in places, but you dont need to haul on it. Use your feet well and it feels secure. I thought it was great, one of the best at this venue.
The arete of Songs from a Gentle Man
Meanwhile Tom was leading the tricky Vumba, which has some good moves in its final section. Dave set off on Peoples Queen, which is hard VS. The difficulties are short lived, but the main groove pushes you out and if you get your shape wrong its tough.
Pete exiting the difficult groove of Peoples Queen.
My attempt on Dolphin Surprise was delayed whilst I tried to work out the opening moves. Considering this was graded HS 4b it was the hardest move I did all day. It’s a real pumpy pull up to the first ledge using a less than perfect hold. Once past this the rest of the climb is straight forward, but its a shock to the system.
The view from the start of Womb Tomb. Tom about to head off.
The four of us left the best till last. The Womb Tomb is brilliant. You get to the start through a narrow gash in the rock which brings you into a dark almost enclosed chimney which widens as it rises. Climb this on surprisingly grippy rock until you break out into the sunrise with a wide bridging move.
The bold move out of the dark chimney.
A bold step across lets you exit onto the seaward side of the pinnacle on the right (facing landwards). A climb that is guaranteed to put a smile on your face.
The view across towards Amnesty Wall.
Gearing up.
Looking out of the gash in Womb Tomb.
The view from the start of Womb Tomb. Tom about to head off.
Prehistoric Cave Paintings!!!
The stepover on Womb Tomb
Shadows
Pete in the gloom
Happy Dave.
Finishing WT.
The bold move out of the dark chimney.
Dave having emerged from the cave of Womb Tomb.
Tom on Songs from a Broken Heart
And Relax!
Pete exiting the difficult groove of Peoples Queen.
Twilight – HS 4b – Second Our Stars, Our Sky – VS 4c – Second
I wasnt sure that I would make this session, as it had been a hectic weekend, but with the sun out and a calm windless evening in prospect, it was too good to resist.
Chris arriving at the ramp after Pitch 1 OSOS
As it happened I arrived at just the right time. Dave had led Twilight and I grabbed a rope and seconded up after him. It’s a good climb too with a good move up into the crack/niche. Just the right antidote to get us all looking for more.
Given the conditions I couldnt help thinking that OSOS would be a good bet. The problem was getting four of us across the traverse was going to take time, but the sun would last.
Chris and Tom checking out the traverse… “what across there!”
After a guarantee of adventure to the others we set off to find the not so obvious abseil. With a good sized swell washing up the runnel, traversing into the base was also exciting. Came within a few inches of catching me out.
Out there…
On this occasion the bottom pitch was a lot drier and was a good climb. The move around the nose requires a bit of thought, but to be honest it’s all about pitch 2 which Dave led. Probably a step up in the whole exposure/technical difficulty area for him but he seemed to breeze through it. There is a runout after the initial start for about 12 ft or so which adds spice, but the pro is so bomber and the drop so steep that it is a safe VS. Having said that its not an easy one and you need to factor in the exposure and feeling of being ‘out there’ the the route radiates.
Relief to have made it before the dark sets in.
Chris and Tom paired up as a second team and followed us across, meaning we finished in the gloom, but with a beautiful sky as the back drop. Not many other places I would rather have been on a day like this.
Even further out there…
Out there…
Is that a touch of nerves?
Chris arriving at the ramp after Pitch 1 OSOS
Relief to have made it before the dark sets in.
Tom tops out on Or Stars Our Sky in the gloom
Chris and Tom checking out the traverse… “what across there!”
Flat Top – HS 4b – Lead Crazy Man Michael – VS 4c – Second Little Brown Jug (Variation Start P1) – HVS/VS 5a? – Lead Thin Wall Special(P2) – E1 5b/5a – Lead Trapeze – HVS 5a – Second
I challenge you to read the title and not hum the tune in your head (or I’m a bit abi normal) I’m sat here looking out the window at drizzle, whereas yesterday at Bosi we were treated to Sunshine and a glorious day.
It was a strange day actually for me. Five climbs in my logbook, but in reality it was three. This was on account of a mix and match approach to our routes. Having walked away from Sinistra which looked more like a waterfall, we started on Flat Top, a really nice HS with some good moves getting past the overhang to the corner.
Me on Flat Top
As it happened overhangs played quite a part on this day. Joe’s lead on pitch two was Crazy Man Michael which starts with a … you’ve guessed it… a overhang. A lot tougher than Flat Top though. You never feel in balance and its strenuous. Having cleared this though the climbing continues up the exposed arete at a much more amenable level. It is well worth doing.
Joe about to set off on the tough opening moves of Crazy Man MichaelJoe high on CMM
Meanwhile the rest of the crew (Tom, Dave, Pete, Chris and Nick who made the long journey down from the wilds of Dartmoor) were on their own routes. Chris and Nick on the by all accounts very good Venusberg and the others on the classic Andrew. A climb I have fond memories of as it was my first multi pitch route with Bart. The step out from the ledge onto the slab is always tense because you never quite feel settled. A good lead from Dave on this one. Venusberg is definitely on my list for next time out.
Pete moving onto the delicate traverse on P2 Andrew
Having taken a closer look at Visions of Johanna, discretion finally got the better part of valour and I opted for a try on Little Brown Jug’s variation start in order to get to P2 of Thin Wall Special. Originally we had planned this for a threesome, but it made sense for Nick and Chris to get on a route instead of hanging around so they went off to do the brilliant Paragon.
LBJ P1
The overhang start (there it is again) seemed OK to me, but the next move is very tin if you continue on a direct line. A bridging move right opens up the good holds higher up and then the climbing is fun right up to the belay ledge of Doorway/Thin Wall Special. Joe kindly deferred this one to me as I had wanted to lead TWS and the top pitch looked wild.
It didnt disappoint. The corner of Doorway is good climbing in its own right and when you get to the roof it seems a bit improbable that it goes at 5a. A move up into the niche gives a chance for a breather and then its stepping out under yet another overhang and aiming for the gap. I found it really scary and although the holds are quite positive you need to shape yourself to get across to the finishing jugs. I just made it but hanging off the final jug dangling 150ft up is amazing.
Joe through the crux on Trapeze
Joe had to go one better by cutting loose with his feet, but his grin gave away how much he enjoyed himself, even if he looked thoroughly knackered.
Dave on Flat Top
Back at the bags with Nick and Chris still on Paragon and Dave leading Flat Top we decided on a last route so Joe had a go on the fierce but short Trapeze. Its all packed into two crux’s, but with the big No 4 Camelot on board Joe could protect the top offwidth crack. I like the route, but I imagine Pete doesnt having given it his best but on this occasion been defeated. I know the feeling well. Another day then.
As usual 7 hours passed like 7 minutes and we were late returning, but it was the culmination of another great adventure on the Cornish Coast and we have many more planned.
Me on Flat Top
Joe about to set off on the tough opening moves of Crazy Man Michael
The crew on the second pitch of Andrew
Joe high on CMM
Pete moving onto the delicate traverse on P2 Andrew
Main Cliff Saxon Direct – HVS 5a – Second Rock Dancer – E1 5b – Lead
Seadreams Cliff Seadreams – HS 4b – Second
Climbing in my own shoes is proving to be a novelty these days, but I got it right this time. On a bright sunny day Joe and I headed for Kenidjack to complete something we started a few years back when we visited on a rainy grim day and had to abandon our ambitions.
Cape Cornwall
Kenidjack is still probably my favorite crag in Cornwall. The climbing is fantastic with crimpy holds and small edges for your feet. Not that strenuous, but it does a real job on your feet and you have to work hard.
Almost there
Joe started things off on Saxon Direct. The final stage of this route angles straight up from the horizontal break rather than traversing to the block. In a way its a more natural line and makes for a spicy finish. IMO they’re both great and on this day Joe made a good job of the route. The start is quite a bold series of moves, but once on the main face the gear is OK.
The belay anchors are a way back
Our pre placed belay ropes made things easy when Joe topped out. By this time the heat was coming off the face and the bitterly cold start was a distant memory. The stunning views across to Cape Cornwall are enough to inspire anyone so we dropped back into the zawn for a crack at Rock Dancer.
I climbed this 3 years back with Nick and remembered it was brilliant but couldnt really remember much about the route except for the mono (guaranteed to be memorable). I knew good pro was spaced. Again there is a bold start followed by steep climbing. The crux is just about adequately protected which makes the ramp a spicy prospect. All in all worth three stars in my book and equally as good as Saxon.
The base of the Main Cliff
After some well deserved lunch it was off to Seadreams Cliff, a new venue for me. The descent is down a hole strewn grassy ridge which is obviously a hunting ground for the resident Peregrines. The ripped apart Seagul was testiment to this.
The line of Apocalypse E2 5c
It turned out to have some good routes and well worth a return visit when the tide isnt threatening to wash over the bottom ledge. Joe finished on a really good HS. Once again small edges for our, by then, battered feet but with excellent pro. A hidden jem.
Near the top of Seadreams
Fully knackered we decamped just as the temperature dropped. As a reminder we should park closer next time because the track is open for quite a way towards the old quarries.
Armada – HS 4b – Lead Raven Face – V Diff – Second
Another damp outing to Dewerstone brought rewards which seemed unlikely on the drive in. The 25-30 mph winds were the main reason for picking the shelter of the woods and this proved a good call as we spent the day watching the clouds scud over the top of the valley.
The damp woods
It was a bit wetter than last time and the fact Id once again forgotten my climbing shoes meant choosing a climb took a bit of thought. In the end Tom and I opted for Armada, a HS which boasted a tough top chimney. I needed to practice chimneys and big boots meant it was a good opportunity.
Dave checking out P2 of Fly on the Wall
Dave and Chris set up for Fly on the Wall. By all accounts Dave found this one a proper challenge due to the quality of pro. As I remembered it the pro was OK, but the loose rock gives the impression of instability which messes with your mind.
or does one?
Not that my mental state was much better. I hate chimneys! and they hate me. So it was time to sort things out and Armada was my candidate to do battle with. The crux of Armada actually turned out to be on the first pitch with a committing move past a bulge. The sopping wet rock didnt help, especially as the key hold was dripping. Still, it made it exciting.
Ian just before the crux of Armada
The chimney proved to be less difficult, but required a complete absence of elegance in its negotiation. I used all parts of my body to thrutch up the narrow gap and bizarly actually enjoyed myself in doing so. I think with rock shoes and a bit of dry it would be a lot easier proposition, but beggars cant be choosers.
The narrow top crack of Armada
We all met up above FOTW and Dave led the V Diff Raven Face. A tricky rock over onto a slab is the main feature of this climb. Quite difficult for a V Diff imo, but after our expoits on the previous climbs it seemed OK.
Dave leading Raven Face
We managed to catch Tom before he could throw himself off the top of the crag, so it ended well. A casual stroll out through the now quiet and stunning woods capped a great day out and there was just enough time for everyone to take the piss out of me a little more for leaving my climbing shoes behind… again!
The damp woods
Dave about to set off on Fly on the Wall
Dave checking out P2 of Fly on the Wall
Dave traversing under the overhang on Fly on the Wall
Unlike Siobhan – HVS 4c – Lead Kernyk – HS 4b – Second Boysens Cracks – E2 5c – Lead (dnf)
Talk about the lull between storms. This was like climbing in the eye of the storm. Thursday was torrential, with full on gales and Saturday was a never ending downpour. Friday. Well Friday was dry and sunny as most Fridays have been this year. Its been very strange.
The highlight of the day was the pod of porpoise which roamed off the point and into the bay between Cribba Head and Logan Rock. The poor fisherman down below us didnt stand a chance. These critters really know how to catch fish and watching them ‘porpoise’ was wonderful.
Unlike Siobhan – The areteon the right of the chimney
In between this we got some top climbing in. I started on Unilke Siobhan an HVS which follows a set of overlaps up the arete on the left of the main face. Surprisingly I found this really enjoyable. I had to rely on the incredible grippy nature of the granite at Cribba (its very crystalline) as the route requires lots of smearing. Placing gear is tricky too, but its all there. Mind a fall into the gap might result in a few grazes.
OK. Now which way
Dave then got the chance to lead Kernyk. I remember from my own experience that its much harder than it first appears, especially in its upper reaches. Dave managed to contort himself into all the usual shapes the climb dictates, but as has been his forte over the past few months he climbed it in a contrlled and steady way.
Tom high on Kernyk
I dont think it will be long before he moves onto VS’s
Boysens Cracks
We finished on Boysens Cracks. I know I can lead this route, so why I f*#$k*d up so badly is beyond me. It was the crux move that undid me; I just didnt go for it and paid the price. I dont know why,. Pro’s good but my stamina was abit lacking. I’ll be back to do this and a number of the harder routes I’ve failed on recently. Time to get strong….
Gives an idea of how much Boysens Cracks leans out
Tom made a good fist of it making it to the top crack before tying his hands up in knots. A good route for a top rope and getting those fingers working.
Gives an idea of how much Boysens Cracks leans out
Dave on Boysens Cracks
Tom bridging up Kernyk. The only way.
Tom high on Kernyk
Ian beginning Boysens Cracks
Boysens Cracks
Kernyk
Dave moving up Kernyk
The crux of Kernyk
OK. Now which way
Dave contorting
jUST BEFORE THE AIRY MOVE OUT ONTO THE ARETE
Awkward gear placements on US
Nearing the massive chockstone on Unlike Siobhan
The crux on Boysens Cracks
Unlike Siobhan – The areteon the right of the chimney
Moaning Minnie – V Diff – Lead Strake – HS 4b – Top Rope Coiled Stick – HVS 5a – Lead Eternitys Few – VS 5a – Second
Stood on the gearing up platform shortly after our arrival it was hard to imagine we would be doing anything but heading for the Logan Rock Inn for a pint. Contrary to the forecast, there was drizzle and it was fairly persistant.
The traverse in.
I’ve never been one for giving up and so we decided to make our way over to the base of the lower tier climbs. This is a good warm up in its own right and in the wet with a bit of swell added, there was a bit of spice in the traverse.
Ian starts out on Moaning Minnie.
Erring on the side of caution Dave and I picked a Diff and V Diff respectively. Strangely, by time we got to the top the rain had stopped and the granite was drying fast. The rain didnt detract from Moaning Minnies qualities. Its a V Diff with good variety and it has a sting in the middle in the form of a narrow, skewed ramp. Climbing this with style is a major challenge as everything slopes the wrong way…. tricky.
Joe 'discovering' the narrow off balance ramp on Moaning Minnie
Dave meanwhile was making his way up Kellys Eye, the distinctive channel which bisects the main climbing area. So we all met at the middle tier platform. This gave Tom, Chris, Joe and Dave a chance to worm their way up Sloe Slab, the very different route with a crawl to finish. Having already done this I top rope Strake. I almost wish I hadnt. Its a bit grim, very overgrown and dirty. Without all the muck it might be a good route, but in this condition its best avoided.
The difficult start to Sloe Slab
Now Coiled Stick is very different. It has its moments with regard to dirt and moss, particularly on the middle crack, but overall its a great route. I cant deny that the middle section spooked me a bit. The pro would probably have been OK if the crack wasnt full of soil and weeds. Trying my best not to just rip everything out, I managed to eke out a few poor placements, but at no time did I think ‘That’s a bomber’. But the climbing is not hard at this point, just balancey.
The tricky middle crack
The top crack is a different proposition. Here the pro is good but the climbing much tougher as power starts to come into play. The damp conditions didnt help, but to be fair it was more a case of pushing on and getting established in the crack. Once I’d done this things became more manageable. Really pleased I did this one.
Ian on the tough top crack of Coiled Stick
Meanwhile Chris was on Porcupine. Given VS it is soft at the grade, but this doesnt detract from the quality of the climb. A great route which Dave and Tom thoroughly enjoyed as well.
Chris on the top section of Porcupine
We had time for another route (just) so Dave set off on the brilliant Iron Bells while Joe tackled the hard start on Eternitys Few. I knew Dave was in for a treat, but Joe’s route turned out to be good as well. The crux is a bold move about 6-7 metres up, probably why it is given 5a. It takes some working out and the slippy moss doesnt inspire you with confidence. A good lead by Joe.
Dave on Iron Bells.
Having to make our way back to the gearing up ledge, we ended up scattering across the crag. probably not a good idea as I spied Dave inching his way up what looked like hard territory. Joe needed a bit of help by Dave and Tom as he got stuck half way up a chimney. Maybe next time we’ll stick together. Chris and I traversed back on the lower slabs, back roping a dodgey wet decent crack and following the traverse back. main thing is we all arrived back safe just as we lost the light and trudged back to Penberth.
If you’d said the day would turn out this well at the start I wouldnt have believed you. Another stolen moment on Cornish granite.
Ian on the tough top crack of Coiled Stick
Dave on Iron Bells.
The traverse in.
Ian starts out on Moaning Minnie.
Dave on Kellys Eye
Joe ‘discovering’ the narrow off balance ramp on Moaning Minnie
Dave and Joe on the bottom tier
Joe completes Moaning Minnie
The difficult start to Sloe Slab
Chris on Sloe Slab
Chris contemplating the squeeze
Chris disappears into the ‘hole’ on Sloe Slab
The belay above Sloe Slab
Chris on the top section of Porcupine
The tricky middle crack
Chris high on Porcupine as Ian gets nervous on Coiled Stick
Iron Bells – HS 4b – Lead Sloe Slab – V Diff – Lead Porcupine – VS 4c – Lead
Parking is a bit of a problem here although on this day we were lucky enough to be able to park on the campsite. Otherwise its a short walk from Penberth. I doubt that there is a lot in it really.
Our gearing up ledge after a thorny arrival
Pete and I rolled up not really knowing what to expect. I know that when you look at the crag it seems broken and disjointed, but after a couple of attempts we successfully managed to access the base of the cliffs via a very thorny and overgrown path. The next task was to get across to the main climbing area which is done by a series of traverses, a couple of which are quite airy, so you may want to rope up.
The bottom of Iron Bells
We started on Iron Bells, a climb very reminiscent of Anvil Chorus’s second pitch. In fact the crack is thinner, but its not as steep. However it’s a great pitch and loads of fun, especially the overhang which is taken directly on really positive holds. The granite feels grippy, probably a reflection of how little climbing this venue has seen over the years.
Eying up the squeeze on Sloe Slab
Pete and I were then faced with the next problem.To get back down to the lower tier involved some serious jungle bashing which we didnt fancy, so instead we decided to just keep going up. A great choice in fact as Sloe Slab turned out to be loads of fun. One for the rest of the group to have a go at and see if anyone can make the exit through the gap look elegant. Me and Pete failed big time.
Pete demonstrates the slug move
With the weather taking a turn for the worse (the sun had now disappeared and we were frozen) we launched for the top. Some poor route reading by me meant we did a sort of mixed route part of which at least was Porcupine, a VS. I had intended to tackle to enticing thin crack on the left of the upper slab, which would have been HVS but cold hands and impending hypothermia made me decide to just get up there as fast as I could.
Pete on the upper tier (Porcupine?)
So all in all a great venue. Each tier has a number of options all in the V Diff to HVS range and it should be a good return next week when we come back mob handed with a stay on Trevervan camp site thrown in.
The Armchair – HVS 5a – Lead Doorpost – HS 4b – Second
Pete, bless his cotton socks , had to be on his toe’s as I took to the air on Armchair. A silly mistake really. I missed the wet patch on what is a fairly polished route anyway. The result was unexpected flight time.
Ian on The Armchair
The start of Armchair is a real mental exercise. Ten years ago maybe the edges were a bit sharper and positive, but on this day everything seemed rounded and smooth. As it happened I negotiated the harder stuff and then fell off once things eased off. This though doesnt detract from the fact The Armchair is a top climb. It just get better and better the higher you go. Lots of tough exposed moves up the ramp add up to an exhilerating experience. One of my favorites.
Chris on the crux of P1 Paragon
Chris and Joe meanwhile tackled Zig Zag and Dave and Tom Doorpost. Because Pete and I took a little longer ( I had to strip some gear) by time we had finished lunch Chris and Joe has started off on Paragon. Shame they didnt take the guidebook, because they got lost on pitch three, missing the offwidth and ending up on Nameless. A lesson learned really in making sure a guide book is to hand on multi pitch routes. Still it means Chris and Joe have a target for the next time they go to Bosi.
Tom leading P1 Doorpost
I finished on Doorpost with Tom and Dave. Tom got his first experience of a Hard Severe on the lead. The big difference for him was placing gear on what is a tough traverse. Not sure Bosi had even heard of some of the language he used but Tom got there in the end for his first HS tick. Dave set off on P2. His confidence is brimming at the moment and it showed as he negotiated the crux move through the twin cracks on what must be one of the most exposed sections of bosi. Doorpost is remarkable in the exposure it delivers at the grade. Lots of adrenaline then.
The view down P2 Doorpost
So next time back at Bosi its going to be a full ascent of Paragon. Bring it on!
Right Hand Trinity – Severe 4b – Lead April Crack – HS 4b – Lead Hargreaves Original Route – VS 4c – Lead
I’d never been to Stanage. I’d read lots about it, but didnt really know what to expect. That and the almost religous way people talk about grit made it all the more anticipated.
The view out from Stanage
Finding the campsite proved to be a challenge. After my third circuit of Hathersage and the surrounding area I stumbled across it, but the wait was worth it as its a beautiful place nestled in the woods and a sheltered valley. At £7 a night its a bargain.
Barty's lonely tent at North Lees campsite
Greated by rain the signs were a bit ominous for the following day so Bart and I scouted the area and got our bearings with the climbing. We picked the April crack area which had a number of top 50’s at reasonable grades. It turned out to be a good idea.
The April Crack area - Hargreaves Original on the left, April Crack centre and Right Hand Trinity on the right (obviously)
Right Hand Trinity was a good starting point. The crux gave me a chance to see why people regard grit as so grippy. Its amazing how much friction you can generate on it and this proved useful when I got to Hargreaves Original. Whether the loose chockstone was broken already or if I did it didnt stop it suprising me when I tried to pull on it.
Bart on Hargreaves Original
All three climbs are great and for a first adventure on grit I am completely sold. Easy access, short technical routes and good camping facilities make this an obvious choice for a short climbing trip.
Bart finding out he hadnt charged up his camera. Doh!!!
The one factor which I was not used to is the crowds, but to be fair this just made the day more sociable. I still prefer the solitude of Penwith but Stanage has its merits.
Top of the lane leading to North Lees campsite
Barty’s lonely tent at North Lees campsite
The April Crack area – Hargreaves Original on the left, April Crack centre and Right Hand Trinity on the right (obviously)
Bart on Hargreaves Original
Bart finishing Right Hand Trinity
Bart about to start Right Hand Trinity
The view out from Stanage
Christmas Crack, the one we missed
Bart finding out he hadnt charged up his camera. Doh!!!
Why it never rains on a Friday!
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