Any excuse to return to Balck Head is a good one, although I think Joe may have had his doubts this time.
Ian on Archangel
My assurance that ‘Balck Head will be sheltered. Dont worry’ was misguided to say the least. The Wind is from the South West. I though you said North West I lied. I just got it wrong really.
Tom mid crux on Archangel
But, and its a lucky but, when we got down to the water shoot gulley it wasnt too bad. While Joe set up a top rope, Tom and I did Archangel. It looks deceptively easy from the bottom, but has a tricky crux and a boldish top out becasue of the fragile rock up there. This was the second time I’d led it and it was just as much fun. It really is a tremendous crack/corner climb. Safe but hard enough to add spice.
The steep Rebel Yell
Rebel yell was a lot more difficult. There appears to be more pro than the guide boook suggests and although strenuous, it is manageable. I will be back to lead this, hopefully this summer. It has small holds and vanishing foot placements which bizarrely are there for your hands and disappear for your feet. Very weird.
Looking for foot placements
The tide eventually chased us off, starting to shoot up the gulley with alarmingly increasing force. So we returned the long route back to the car at Treleaver Farm (because the fu!#ing farmer has shut the permissive footpath on the grounds of a bull – 6 months ago. Tosser) satisfied with a couple of good climbs. I’ll be back in the good weather for another climb and a swim.
The Drum – HVS 5b – Lead (dnf) then TR Grindeer – E2 5B – TR Drifters – E1 5c – Retrieve gear (and some sneaky practicing)
We made this day a real cack handed ordeal. One we should have driven to Lands End and not walked all the way from Porthgwarra and two, we should have recognised a series of sandbags when we arrived!
Cool lefty
It was though a terrific day, with lots of hard climbing and some really challenging routes. I started the day trying to lead The Drum. An excellent HVS running up a crack line on the left of the main face. From the ground it looks innocuous and well protected. It’s neither.
Carn Boel from the South
I havnt felt so pumped for ages. A proper test of my ability to keep hanging on. Placing gear was strenuous, climbing was strenuous, staying still was strenuous (you get the idea). I felt like Popeye by time I eventually succumbed and slumped into my gear. It was all a matter of mental state.
Tom on the crux of the Drum
By time I reached the crux I was pumped and couldnt find any gear. I knew in my mind that once I committed there was no going back and it looked poor for gear. This was actually an accurate forecast as it was. For HVS it is remarkably bold. I think it would be E1 in most peoples books. Definitely 5b though.
Pulling onto the main slab
So all pumped up I tried again on the top rope and this time went straight through. Of course without having to place gear. One I will try again maybe later in the season.
Joe on Grindeer
Meanwhile Joe was having his own epic on Drifters. Another one where gear is hard to come by and the climbing suprisingly dificult. It did for Joe on this occasion (unusually), but I expect he will be back shortly to tame it.
The tricky moves onto the main wall
We all (Tom, Dave, Joe and I) had a go on the E2, which actually proved to be OK. Tough again with some amazing moves into the vertical crack, but manageable.
Me on Grindeer
This spot is great for a winters days climbing. Above the sea, sheltered with great views. We were lucky to get this on this day as the weather came in with a vengance on the walk back.
Shame Dave and Tom chose to take the long walk to the car. Pay attention!!!!
Carn Kenidjack was the better of the two venues for shelter. Tucked away in a narrow zawn it protects you from the worst of the wind and on this day that was a bonus.
Cape Cornwall. Great name ..Cape
Setting up a top rope at Kenidjack is not easy. All the anchors are set well back and they dont line up on the belay spot. Me and Joe made a pretty good job of it in the end… good enough to feel safe anyway.
I really enjoyed the climb and I know Joe did too by the smile on his face. It is steady for the most part but has its moments. A bold start and finish and a tough crux. If I was to lead this I would want to do it in perfect conditions as overall it is a bold lead. I couldnt help but keep glancing across to Thane. Must do that the next time we are here.
Big swell in the bay
It was then off for a bit of an explore at Carn Clogh. I remebered there were a couple of HVS’s here and though we might try them. With a howling wind we set up below Nutse, a fierce looking HVS that tackles an overhang.
The line of Nutse
For a change I took it on (I was wondering why when trying to pull through the crux). It is really all about negotiating the overhang. It looks unlikely but the holds are there. You just have to find them. Fortunately I did and it turned out to be a great, although unsteady, climb.
By time we finished we could barely stand still so it was off homwe with a good buzz and mucho windburn.
Big swell in the bay
Somber day for climbing. Shame you cant see the wind.
Fagin – HVS 5a – Lead Astral Stroll – E1 5b – Alt Lead
The nerves started a couple of days earlier when Nick text me about climbing on the Sunday. For some reason I already knew that he was thinking of Astral Stroll. This is one of those climbs with a reputation for wildness and commitment. One that invokes excitement and intrepidation.
Carn Gloose and Zawn Duel
It boils down to the fact that the whole climb requires both buddies to commit into some startling climbing territory with no opportunity for escape (accept to climb out). We had heard that AS can be a bit greasey in the mornings so this gave us the chance to go and check out Pedn Kei first.
Nick’s new helmet!
As it turned out this gave rise to the most sketchy climbing of the day and this was just on the approach. This amounts to a slide (in my case) down grassy embankments until you reach a rock platform above the climbing area. I cant say I enjoyed it. I think next time a grab line might be in order. Something to remember for the future.
Nick on Fagin
Abbing in, Pedn Kei reveals how much good climbing is available. We only did Fagin, a good and tricky HVS following the seaward corner. It looks like it will be damp and unpleasant but in fact its was dry and offered really good moves and pro. You start in the corner and move out onto the face at around 2/3 height with a cruxy finish. I can thoroughly recommend it.
Nick on P1 Astral Stroll
I wouldnt say the access description in the Climbers Club book is easy to follow but it did get us to the correct start for Astral Stroll. You end up in a recess on the point. A stunning place to start watching waves smash into the point and wash through the gaps below. Nick set off heading up diagonally which put him on the higher version of P1. Unknown to us this was a good choice as a rockfall now means that the lower version skips past the P1 belay point so you no longer need to down climb on the start of P2. I think this is probably the better option for the full AS experience.
First belay and The View
OK spoiler alert. If you dont want to know about the climb dont read on……..
Pitch 1 is an exposed traverse across a slab to a corner and belay point. As you move around the initial corner you get a view into what is coming and it is astonishing. Its hard to believe a route at E1 can go through this kind of territory.
First moves of P3 under the roof.
Pitch 2 has a difficult move down followed by a bold traverse and a final grunty move up under the roof. Its great but the belayer loses sight of you straight away and its hard to fully protect your second. That said a back rope helps take some of the potential swing out.
Looking back on belay of P3.
Pitch 3 is the best of all the pitches. Hard moves under the roof lead to a series of rock overs/pulls into niches and onto aretes. All whilst dangling above a drop into the ocean and with the roaring sea all around. One of the truly great pitches on any route I’ve done.
Final Moves
Pitch 4 starts with a strenuous pull over an overhang and onto a slab. Steep crimpy moves lead to the grassy alcove above and a feeling of having just been a part of something really special. It’s not worth doing another climb after this. You might as well head off to the pub and pat yourself on the back – which is exactly what we did.
What a day and many thanks have to go to Nick for sharing the experience and being the ‘competant partner’ the book says you need. And they’re right!
Aviation – E1 5b – Lead Raven Wing – VS 4c – Second Outward Bound _ HVS 4c – Lead
There was only one reason for Dave and my venture to the Devon Moors and that was to have a crack at Aviation, an iconic E1 and one which I’ve had on my wish list for a while.
The view of Raven Wing and Outward Bound behind Dave
But it was to be Outward Bound which provided the early entertainment, with the aspiring avaitors getting plenty of air time. You know Outward Bound is going to be powerful and pumpy, but as it did the first time I tried it, it caught me out. Maybe we should have warmed up on something less intimidating, but it provided plenty of fun. I kept getting stuck on the transition onto the main face and Dave decided the prow was a good rest point to sit on while he contemplated the next moves.
Dave on Raven Wing.
It’s easy to think OB is all about the powerful moves, but the upper wall is delicate and needs thoughful work on protection. All together its a good varied route and well worth doing (after warming up!).
Smug Dave
Daves lead on Ravens Wing was equally adventurous. The move onto the arete is spicy and is followed by some lean climbing with sparse protection. One for a cool head and Dave did brilliantly to keep it all together and climb it with style. Definitely at the top of the grade for VS imo. Not technically hard but needs thought.
Amazing Haytor.
There were plenty of people around on Haytor, but we were left in splendid isolation for the most part. The flowers below Raven Gulley were obviously a memorial to a faller although it was hard to know who. The toy car left on the rock indicated it probably related to a child and made the whole scene very poignient and sad.
Very uncomfortable Belay!
By this time Dave and I were pooped, but it was hard to ignore the amazing line of Aviation. So it was grab the ropes and ‘lets do it!’. My first attempt resulted in me being stopped in my tracks by the first move. After backing off and contemplating how to get through I decided to just push through, utilising a bit of powerful laybacking to negotiate the bulge. After this it was sustained and varied. Delicate traverse followed by a wide groove/crack where pro was spaced. Fantastic route and one to be firmly filed away in the ‘adventure’ drawer.
With the sun starting to go down,Dave and I left for the long drive back and me promising not to go to sleep….
Amazing Haytor.
Very uncomfortable Belay!
Hanging belay on Aviation.
Country
Towards Haytor
Smug Dave
Dave on Raven Wing.
Dave on Raven Wing.
Dave on Raven Wing.
Amazingview towards Bovey.
The walk out in evening sun
The view of Raven Wing and Outward Bound behind Dave
Coitionary Tales – HVS 5 a – Lead Virgo – VS 4c – Second
I always enjoy a trip to the Culm. This one was full of promise as we were heading for Oldwalls Point. In the end the descent defeated us with a mix of loose shale and thick gorse. As we dropt down the path became less distinct and more treacherous. In the end ignorance and uncertainty got the better of us and we decided to abandon this attempt and head for Hippa Rock instead which according to the guidebook was a straight forward scramble down the point.
Dave contemplates suicide
Wrong!!! After eventually finding an indistinct path we came to a steep gulley full of loose manky rubble and looking like it was ready to fall down the same chute of a recent landslip. Every step was one of uncertainty and dread for me. I hate loose shit and this really was shit. From then on it was just one more pile of teetering rubble after another.
A loose ridge
The climbs though were worth it ( I think). Coitionary Tales is a diagonal crack climb of top quality. Some very thoughtful moves greet the climber and it has a sting in the tale with the crux occurring in the final moves. I loved it.
Dave on Coitionary Tales
Dave’s VS was no pushover either. The main body is solid 4c but if you finish it directly the top moves are solid with a very sketchy move onto a smooth slab. 5a+ IMO or harder if you miss the hidden holds. A good lead by Dave who put in some air time as a reward for his efforts.
Dave finishes Virgo
The tide eventually drove us away and into the jaws of the walk out which was equally as unenjoyable as the walk in. Still it was a beautiful evening and you can’t complain too much when you have great adventure and this was yet another one.
NC Madness – VS 4c – Lead Go Shorty – E2 5c – Second (dnf) Hard Times – E1 5c – Lead (dogged) Boulder Problem – HVS 5b – Second
Where do you go when the BMC meet is on and most venues will have climbers galore. Rosemergy seemed a good bet although we were joined by another couple for a change.
Lightning Crack – HVS 5a – Lead The Wormhole – V Diff – Solo
God I hate the guide book comments on Logan Rock. For the most part the Climbers Club Guide is brilliant, but they had an aberation when it came to Logan Rock. Normally I pick up one route and from there everything falls into place. Not here. Everything is so vague you cant even pick one out.
The line of Lightning Crack
Still after a little tantrum early on Pete and I set off on one of our ‘Adventures’! It was so much fun. Abbing in with the tide pushing and swell charging into Castle Boot Zawn. Hanging just above the surge made for an exctiting belay and the initial moves meant dropping down to sea level and quickly moving back up before a wave got you. Speed climbing.
Me posing at the belay in Castle Boot Zawn
We negotiated the initial moves setting up an improvised belay part way up the groove to avoid rope drag. It’s all a little off balance but great climbing. Then the main event. The pull up into Lightning crack through an overhang. Well protected but scary. And after a few good holds its all jamming. My footwork was appalling resulting in me getting stuck lying along with my right foot jammed. After some serious grunting and heavy breathing I managed to untie myself and get some poise back. Then its a balancy mantle onto the face and its all done. Simples… Except I left blood all over the place in my desperate attempt to untangle myself. Its amazing how adrenaline masks the pain of jamming in sharp crystaline cracks. I’m feeling it today though.
Blood Brothers
Meanwhile Dave was finding out about Logan Rocks serious issue with undergrading. The two HS cracks are probably VS and E1. The whole place is full of great potential but a lot of it is hard.
Dave wondering how an HS can be so hard!
The end of the day saw Tom and Dave working some of the hard routes on the short face in the main bay (Crack 1 and 2 area). Pete and I undertook some caving finding a bizarre route which worked its way from the bottom to the top via hollows between jammed boulders and narrow gulleys and chimneys. Probably not a new route but I call it ‘The Wormhole’ and grade it V Diff just because its so f@#!k#$g awkward and tight. Pete is coming along great guns and his confidence is soring. We both solo’d the whole route. Never high, but committing all the same. More fun than chasing cats!
Climbing or Caving?
The Logan Rock Inn provided a fitting end to an amazing day in a stunning breath taking location. How can you not feel happy when you have this on your doorstep.
Central Groove – HS 4b – Alt lead Silken Thread/Imperialist – HSV 5a – Lead
The Dewerstone is a long haul from Newquay but its worth it and on a day of repeats like these your time and money are well spent.
Central Groove is undeniably one of the best HS’s around and Dave got his chance to lead P1 which is just awesome. There were a few other climbers around on this day, but dont get me wrong, it wasnt busy. I still get a real feeling of being in place that was created from a novel like LOTR. Twisted trees, thick lichen, bird song and the sound of the river all add to the impression.
Climbing up through the canopy is always fun and sat on the belay ledge while Dave brought up Tom, I got the chance to just savour the whole experience. I dont think there is anywhere better to be in the world when you get days like this.
I knew Silken Thread/Imperialist would get my blood flowing. It feels bold to start and the entire first pitch seems off balance. Its a good route though and the second pitch exposed my lack of strength training this year. Time to beef up a bit me thinks.
A nice snooze on the way back made the trip quick. Tom’s new car is too comfortable, thats the problem.
Raven Gulley – Severe 4a – Alt Lead Outward Bound – HVS 4C – Lead (P1 Only)
We left Newquay with great ambition for the day ahead. Chris and I had targeted a series of HVS and E1’s at Haytor and Low Man which we intended to bag. Unfortunately mother nature had very different ideas about what we were going to accomplish and it wasnt going to be 100%.
It all started so well. Raven Gulley was a really cool climb to start on and get warmed up, but unfortunately by time we had finished it the wind was up and storm clouds gathering. Outward Bound was an obvious choice for number two. Well protected but grunty. On this day though it gave Chris a good hiding. The main factor is the that once commited into the overhang there is no let up. Its all power. On this occasion Chris didnt find the thank god jug and he’ll have to wait for next time to get it. I spent a while trying to free and awkward nut, but having done this felt I should have a crack. It would be churlish not to….
Maybe I should have checked what I’d been doing with the ropes because having lauched cavalier into the overhang I was stopped dead by twisted ropes so it was back down and start agian from the bottom. This time I managed it just in time for the heavens to open and kill the day.
170 mile round trip for a Severe. It was worth it!
Why it never rains on a Friday!
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