Tag Archives: HVS

Climbing

Wolves in sheeps clothing

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Pentire point
Redwall Cliffs

28th March 2013

Warrior Mouse – HVS/E1 5a – Lead
Cradle of Filth – HVS 5a – Second

OK. Leaving you climbing shoes behind three times is beyond a joke. I need a new system whereby I keep my shoes with my bag instead of in the shed where they so often seem to be when I need them?

Fortunately Tom came to my rescue, sharing his red chillis with me which did me fine for two difficult routes. Redwall Cliffs are to be found at the end of the path from Pentire Farm, so access is straight forward; just walk past the bench and head towards the sea. Watch out for the outlandishly large sheeps poo which Chris assured us came from the famous Pentire wolves……… Whatever it was, Tom shouldnt have stepped in it.

View to the Rumps

As with a lot of the Atlantic Coast routes, the rock is not as solid as Penwith granite.  In fact around this cliff there is a lot of looseness. Tom detaching a grapefruit sized lump of rock from the cliff did not instill confidence. But Warrior Mouse is a great looking line leading up a steep groove and then out onto a steep face.

After my usual faffing moments where I started…stopped..started…etc I got stuck into the bottom chimney/groove. It is very steep which makes it tough to place gear, but once I had placed a key nut my confidence leapt and and the rest of the climb came together nicely. There is an atmospheric traverse followed by some excellent face climbing where the rock deteriorated with altitude.

Gearing up on Cradle of Filth

Creating belays is troublesome as there are no anchors directly behind the crag. On WM you can anchor to a side bluff, but for Chris he ended up using a concrete water trough some 55 metres back connected by Tom’s 10mm rope (just a little stretch in the mechanism).

Concentration

Chris chose another HVS further across on the main cliff. Cradle of Filth is aptly named due to a muddy step early on in the climb. But after this it is anything but dirty. The meat of the climb starts when you reach the headwall. This is also where the crux is. The move up from the ledge is precarious and technical. Once you work the sequence out it is OK but you have to rely on some less than positive holds initially.

The loose top out

There’s also another exciting finish to the climb with loose rock abounding. Having said all of this, Redwall Cliifs turned out to be a good venue. The views across to the Rumps and Pentire Point are startling and on this day the sea was calm and clear.

View to Pentire Point

 

Climbing

Unfinished business

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Aire Point / John Wayne Memorial Crag

14th March 2013

Biggles Flies Undone – HVS 5a – Second
Hit The Deck, Here She Comes – HVS 5b – Lead
Stagecoach – VS 5c – Lead

The first day of proper spring is what it felt like. Actual warm sunshine and blue skies. Deceptive because coming in behing this day were gales and heavy rain. Still we made the most of the window with a trip to Sennen Cove.

Back towards Sennen

The views on this day were stunning. As Tom said, the granite seemed to cahnge colour all day depending on the height and intensity of the Sun. A couple of very spectacular venues.

View back towards Aire Point with the prominent lines of Airplane and BFU

After checking out John Wayne Memorial Crag we spotted the lines we wanted to do but they needed a little more drying so we started on Aire Point. Chris and Tom on Aireline, a tough VS taking on the definative chimney in the centre of the crag and Joe tackling Biggles Flies Undone, an HVS I had had my eye on for a while but which I deferred to Joe because I didnt want him to cry and humiliate himself in front of the rest of the crew.

Joe mid crux on Biggles Flies Undone

Turns out it was tougher than first appearances suggested. The real problems are short lived but require a bit of commitment. There is little for your fet at first and placing pro is strenuous. Joe made a good job of it before blasting up the top thank god flake. A top start to the day.

Making our way back to JWMC

We returned to JWMC and set about the two HVS 5b’s. Chris on Regans Regression and me on Hit The Deck, Here She Comes (variation) We both suffered the same ignominious defeat. For me, it was my stamina that let me down. I’ve got to get that sorted. Howver HTDHSC is a very good climb and I want another go at it to clean it. Chris and I intend to return soon to complete our respective ‘projects’.

Tom on the deceptively difficult Sheriff VS 4c

As a finale Chris and Tom went for Sheriff, an outwardly innocuous VS but one which proves decidedly move difficult with technical moves on the upper slab.

The balancy final moves of Sheriff

Suprisingly Joe wanted a go at the 5c route Stagecoach (insert irony here). Clearly he hadnt fallen off anything yet and wanted the opportunity. Stagecoach provided it. It is really a one sequence wonder with excellent pro.

Joe tops out the 5c section of Stagecoach having given blood to the cause

Get a couple of nuts in and go for it (Pete that’s your red Metollius we scratched up).

Pete. Do you recognise this!……

After going up and down a couple of times I eventualy went for it and suprisingly made it. The barn door potential is the problem as Joe found out. However in the end we both did it and capped off a grand day out.

A day which left everyone knackered but feeling good. A word of warning though. The walk out from Aire Point is a beast after a long day and with a heavy pack. Be prepared.

 

Climbing

My legs have gone to a Disco!

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The Dewerstone

19th February 2013
Spiders Web – HVS 5a – Alt Lead

It was good to have a few dry days in a row. The issue now was a freezing South Easterley wind to deal with so the shelter of the Dewerstone seemed an obvious choice.

Our own private stream for the day.

Having had an outing on a VS recently I felt ready to give an HVS a go and I’d often wanted to try Spiders Web. Three stars and two pitches it seemed ideal for Chris and I to have a crack at it. Strangely this was the first multi pitch HVS we have done so it was a step in the right direction..

Starting out on Spiders Web

I set out on Pitch one very tentatively and after faffing around for ages finally got going. I think I had forgotten that HVS’s are difficult and expected to just breeze through it. We P1 woke me up and negotiating the crux corner made me work very hard.

Crux 2. The move onto the first slab.

A step up onto a small right hand foot placement saw my leg begin to break dance. There is not a lot for your hands except a thin jam, which is jut enough to pull through. Look out for a perfect cam slot to settle the nerves.

About to head out onto the delicate top slab.

Chris’s pitch was very different. This time it was balancy traverses with lots of smearing and small hand holds. The top slab is special, especially the first move out from above the tree. Gets the heart pumping, but pro is very good so you can proceed with confidence.

Topping out.

After much patting each other on the back, we decided to quit while we were ahead. An easy thing to do in a beautiful place like The Dewerstone. The walk back through the woods by the stream allows for some smug reflection on what was a blinding day.

Climbers on Devils Buttress

And there are a few more HVS’s for us to do yet….

Climbing

Enter the real fishermen

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23rd November 2012

Cribba Head

Unlike Siobhan – HVS 4c – Lead
Kernyk – HS 4b – Second
Boysens Cracks – E2 5c – Lead (dnf)

Talk  about the lull between storms. This was like climbing in the eye of the storm. Thursday was torrential, with full on gales and Saturday was a never ending downpour. Friday. Well Friday was dry and sunny as most Fridays have been this year. Its been very strange.

The highlight of the day was the pod of porpoise which roamed off the point and into the bay between Cribba Head and Logan Rock. The poor fisherman down below us didnt stand a chance. These critters really know how to catch fish and watching them ‘porpoise’ was wonderful.

Unlike Siobhan – The areteon the right of the chimney

In between this we got some top climbing in. I started on Unilke Siobhan an HVS which follows a set of overlaps up the arete on the left of the main face. Surprisingly I found this really enjoyable. I had to rely on the incredible grippy nature of the granite at Cribba (its very crystalline) as the route requires lots of smearing. Placing gear is tricky too, but its all there. Mind a fall into the gap might result in a few grazes.

OK. Now which way

Dave then got the chance to lead Kernyk. I remember from my own experience that its much harder than it first appears, especially in its upper reaches. Dave managed to contort himself into all the usual shapes the climb dictates, but as has been his forte over the past few months he climbed it in a contrlled and steady way.

Tom high on Kernyk

I dont think it will be long before he moves onto VS’s

Boysens Cracks

We finished on Boysens Cracks. I know I can lead this route, so why I f*#$k*d up so badly is beyond me. It was the crux move that undid me; I just didnt go for it and paid the price. I dont know why,. Pro’s good but my stamina was abit lacking. I’ll be back to do this and a number of the harder routes I’ve failed on recently. Time to get strong….

Gives an idea of how much Boysens Cracks leans out

Tom made a good fist of it making it to the top crack before tying his hands up in knots. A good route for a top rope and getting those fingers working.

Climbing

One for the eternal optimists

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26th October 2012

Porthguarnon Cove

Moaning Minnie – V Diff – Lead
Strake – HS 4b – Top Rope
Coiled Stick – HVS 5a – Lead
Eternitys Few – VS 5a – Second

Stood on the gearing up platform shortly after our arrival it was hard to imagine we would be doing anything but heading for the Logan Rock Inn for a pint. Contrary to the forecast, there was drizzle and it was fairly persistant.

The traverse in.

I’ve never been one for giving up and so we decided to make our way over to the base of the lower tier climbs. This is a good warm up in its own right and in the wet with a bit of swell added, there was a bit of spice in the traverse.

Ian starts out on Moaning Minnie.

Erring on the side of caution Dave and I picked a Diff and V Diff respectively. Strangely, by time we got to the top the rain had stopped and the granite was drying fast. The rain didnt detract from Moaning Minnies qualities. Its a V Diff with good variety and it has a sting in the middle in the form of a narrow, skewed ramp. Climbing this with style is a major challenge as everything slopes the wrong way…. tricky.

Joe 'discovering' the narrow off balance ramp on Moaning Minnie

Dave meanwhile was making his way up Kellys Eye, the distinctive channel which bisects the main climbing area. So we all met at the middle tier platform. This gave Tom, Chris, Joe and Dave a chance to worm their way up Sloe Slab, the very different route with a crawl to finish. Having already done this I top rope Strake. I almost wish I hadnt. Its a bit grim, very overgrown and dirty. Without all the muck it might be a good route, but in this condition its best avoided.

The difficult start to Sloe Slab

Now Coiled Stick is very different. It has its moments with regard to dirt and moss, particularly on the middle crack, but overall its a great route. I cant deny that the middle section spooked me a bit. The pro would probably have been OK if the crack wasnt full of soil and weeds. Trying my best not to just rip everything out, I managed to eke out a few poor placements, but at no time did I think ‘That’s a bomber’. But the climbing is not hard at this point, just balancey.

The tricky middle crack

The top crack is a different proposition. Here the pro is good but the climbing much tougher as power starts to come into play. The damp conditions didnt help, but to be fair it was more a case of pushing on and getting established in the crack. Once I’d done this things became more manageable. Really pleased I did this one.

Ian on the tough top crack of Coiled Stick

Meanwhile Chris was on Porcupine. Given VS it is soft at the grade, but this doesnt detract from the quality of the climb. A great route which Dave and Tom thoroughly enjoyed as well.

Chris on the top section of Porcupine

We had time for another route (just) so Dave set off on the brilliant Iron Bells while Joe tackled the hard start on Eternitys Few. I knew Dave was in for a treat, but Joe’s route turned out to be good as well. The crux is a bold move about 6-7 metres up, probably why it is given 5a. It takes some working out and the slippy moss doesnt inspire you with confidence. A good lead by Joe.

Dave on Iron Bells.

Having to make our way back to the gearing up ledge, we ended up scattering across the crag. probably not a good idea as I spied Dave inching his way up what looked like hard territory. Joe needed a bit of help by Dave and Tom as he got stuck half way up a chimney. Maybe next time we’ll stick together. Chris and I traversed back on the lower slabs, back roping a dodgey wet decent crack and following the traverse back. main thing is we all arrived back safe just as we lost the light and trudged back to Penberth.

If you’d said the day would turn out this well at the start I wouldnt have believed you. Another stolen moment on Cornish granite.

Climbing

Was it left at the crack, second right at the groove and straight past the ledge???

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21st September 2012

Bosigran

The Armchair – HVS 5a – Lead
Doorpost – HS 4b – Second

Pete, bless his cotton socks , had to be on his toe’s as I took to the air on Armchair. A silly mistake really. I missed the wet patch on what is a fairly polished route anyway. The result was unexpected flight time.

Ian on The Armchair

The start of Armchair is a real mental exercise. Ten years ago maybe the edges were a bit sharper and positive, but on this day everything seemed rounded and smooth. As it happened I negotiated the harder stuff and then fell off once things eased off. This though doesnt detract from the fact The Armchair is a top climb. It just  get better and better the higher you go. Lots of tough exposed moves up the ramp add up to an exhilerating experience. One of my favorites.

Chris on the crux of P1 Paragon

Chris and Joe meanwhile tackled Zig Zag and Dave and Tom Doorpost. Because Pete and I took a little longer ( I had to strip some gear) by time we had finished lunch Chris and Joe has started off on Paragon. Shame they didnt take the guidebook, because they got lost on pitch three, missing the offwidth and ending up on Nameless. A lesson learned really in making sure a guide book is to hand on multi pitch routes. Still it means Chris and Joe have a target for the next time they go to Bosi.

Tom leading P1 Doorpost

I finished on Doorpost with Tom and Dave. Tom got his first experience of a Hard Severe on the lead. The big difference for him was placing gear on what is a tough traverse. Not sure Bosi had even heard of some of the language he used but Tom got there in the end for his first HS tick. Dave set off on P2. His confidence is brimming at the moment and it showed as he negotiated the crux move through the twin cracks on what must be one of the most exposed sections of bosi. Doorpost is remarkable in the exposure it delivers at the grade. Lots of adrenaline then.

The view down P2 Doorpost

So next time back at Bosi its going to be a full ascent of Paragon. Bring it on!

Climbing

Find me something hard!

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7th September 2012
Fox Promontory

Sinister – VS 4c – Lead
Pilgrims – HVS 4c – Second

View toward Carn Barra

The scramble onto Fox Promontory is almost as much fun as the climbing. It’s definitely a good warm up as you move along the narrow ridge to the far nose. Once again you are enveloped in the ruggedness and beauty of Cornwalls coast. The view out towards Carn Barra opens up with miles of Granite climbing on display.

A busy ab point

A few of us (6 to be exact) made our way here with the thought that when it heated up, which it was going to on this day, Fox would be fairly cool being a more north facing venue. Strange how durig the cooler months you look for warm venues and then as soon as it gets hot, the search is on for shady spots.

The ab in

Finding the ab point caused us the usual problems, but most of the edges are steep and we managed not to destroy Pete’s new rope in the process.  We started again on the seaward nose with Joe and Pete on the Muzzle, me and Tom on Sinister and Chris and Dave having another go at the guano infested hairy monster that is the Whisker.

Pulling up into the groove of Sinister

The latter is given stars in the guide, but it would seem lack of traffic and nesting birds make what should be a great climb a little unpleasant in places. Still, Chris and Dave completed it this time, finishing up a tough and very dirty crack. No push over this one by all accounts.

Scouting out Pilgrims

Tom and I struggled to follow the described guidebook route, possibly because some of Sinister has fallen down. Either that or we were way of route. The mantleshelf described didnt appear to be there, but the moves around the corner and up over the flake are really good fun.

A busy belay as well

Fox Promontory is a stunning venue. Very secluded and a very different place when sunny to when its dark and grey. On this day it was brilliant, with water so clear that the seal watching us for most of the day could be seen in its entirety. Mind blowing.

Joe had been gunning for something with a bite all day and a venture up Pilgrim ticked all the boxes. After a short tantrum from me about not starting in the only damp niche on the south coast  on this day, we set off up the bottom pitch of Mistaken Identity which links more obviously with the top pitch of Pilgrims. As a complete route it works well, but doesnt make the top pitch any easier. Joe did a brilliant job leading this one. Gear is OK but the balancey nature of the climb makes placing it difficult. Lots of small crimpy holds, careful footwork makes for a top route.

Joe on the top belay of Pilgrims

Dave and Chris were on Sunshine cracks, by all accounts a slightly run out HS with some tough moves and Tom found his usual degenerating pile of choss called Foxblood which led to Pete ageing a few years prematurely as Tom ran it out.

Once again, completely knackered we trudged back to Porthgwarra. For Tom myself and Joe it would be more of the same the following day as we were staying at Treen for the BMC meet.

Climbing

First fin of the year.

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6th July 2012

Vessacks West/Vessacks Point

Phallus – Severe 4a – Second
Elizabeth – HVS 5a – Lead
Vessactomy – Severe 4a – Second

Vessacks Point

Vessacks is not the easiest place to find. The directions in the guide book referred to a balanced boulder which we never found. Approaching from St Levens Church we went further west and came back along the coast path. The most prominent feature is a rugged island sat to the west of the main point and this is a good landmark for finding Vessacks West which is down to the right facing out.

Chris moving up Phallus

It’s tidal so it took a while to dry and to make the most of the drying time we scouted out the point. There are a series of Severe’s and V Diffs here and Dave set off on Phallus for the first lead of the day.

Crux of Phallus

The clue is in the name. A series of ledges leads to a top wall and a striking appendage. This forms the crux of the route with an exposed move through the overhang. During the course of Dave’s ascent we were lucky enough to see our first ‘Basker’ of the season. It’s always brilliant to see these huge ceatures cruising by and a good sign summer is here (as long as you ignore the rain).

Ian gripped on Elizabeth

Back at Vessacks West we were struggling to find a route not wet. Elizabeth being an arete seems to be fairing better than the corners although it too had damp patches. I think the wet always undermines my confidence and this was no exception. I faffed around for ages before finally moving up into the second niche. The pro wasnt brilliant and the holds greasy so it was all a head game. The fact Chris had pulled a ist sized chunch of rock away while we were bouldering around probably didnt help either.

Ian moving into the upper niche on Elizabeth
High on Elizabeth

Once underway the route is fine although another tricky section awaits near the top. The climb is a little spoiled by a chossy top ramp which is vegetated. But the location makes up for it providing a belay with a stunning view over the rock pools below the buttress.

Chris at the first overhang on Elizabeth

The final climb of the day lead by Chris proved to be deceptive. The guide indicates going straight up the central top spike. A series of tricky rounded ledges leads to a totally unprotected and rounded top slab. Not possible at Severe and most likely in the E’s realistically. The groove to the right gives a better finish at the grade.

Chris working hard on Vessactomy

This capped off another terrific day out. I want to try Madonna of the Waves next time. Harder, but if dry I think it will be good.

Climbing

How Old?

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17th June 2012
Penberth

They do at that age – HVS 5a – Lead

I’m not sure what age this climb refers to, but its one I’ve wanted to lead right from when I first started climbing. Penberth was a regular destination back in the mid 00’ies. Lots of top roping and soloing, but I avoided the main problems. Probably because I didn’t feel confident to tackle them.

Gearing up for They Do At That Age

My recollection of TDATA was that I  fell off it on a Top Rope way back and that it was hard. It lived up to my memories. A great but balanced and airy traverse leads to an awkward crack.

Dave on the traverse into the crack

There are plenty of protection opportunities but as you go higher the crack runs out resulting in a transfer across to another crack on the right. This is the crux imo, and takes a bit of working out. The thank God flake tops it off.

Pre crux on They Do At That Age

There is an offwidth to finish on, but it is very hairy with lichen and gritty. Also there is no pro and a fall off the top here would result in a 30-40ft wipper. So I balked and escaped sideways, content I’d done what was a fantastic face climb. 3 stars.

Both Dave and Tom finished the wide top crack, which is great for laybacking. It just needs more traffic.

Hornet looking deceptively easy angled....

We moved across to Hornet and short but great VS. As with many climbs it looks easier than it is. Dave and Tom practised on gear placement, which on Hornet is not easy.

The flared cracks of Hornet

The direct finish is committing. The pro for it is low and in a flared crack so probably not reliable. Take the niche and there are more options. Personally I prefer the groove finish. More technical and rounds off the climb nicely.

Tom topping out on Hornet
Climbing

A right good spanking

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1st June 2012

St Loy

Ivy Incorporated – V Diff – Second
Harmony – HVS 5b – Lead (dnf)
Monochrome Men – E1 5b – Second
Supercruise – HVS 4c – Lead

I returned to St Loy for one specific reason on this day and as with my attempt before with Joe, Harmony gave me a good seeing to.

Once again things just did not flow on this HVS. I thought I new what I was going to do, but its easy to forget how akward the climb is and how pumpy it is too. Add to this my sweaty hands and I had a recipe for disaster which I duly served up to myself.

Ian making it look like a straight forward step up. IT ISN'T!

I have resolved now to return on a cool evening and remember the lessons I have learnt so far.

  • Dont place pro on the high crucial hold on the first niche. Otherwise you just make it even harder.
  • Wait until my hands are not as sweaty so I can get the jam working on the second niche.
  • Do this climb at the end of a session, otherwise the bitter taste of defeat stays with you.
Ian about to get his second spanking of the day on Harmony
At least this time I didnt spit my dummy out…..just.
Otherwise this was a great session, mixed with Chris adding to his E1 tally and Dave tackling a stiff V Diff. And we had the company of Dolphins, which always brings a smile to your face.
Dave kicking things off on Ivy Incorporated

 

Ivy Incorporated is not a straight forward V Diff. The bottom section is steep and unusually for a climb of this grade you place gear in a not very relaxed position.
Dave looking after Ian on Ivy Incorporated
But it is a fine climb, leading to a high top out above the main face. Dave managed to find the biggest pro placement I’ve ever seen looping a sling around a three ton boulder. Its what you might call ‘bomber’.
Chris moving onto the face on Monochrome Men
Chris had great fun on Monochrome Men, a demanding E1 but well protected. It really should get four stars it’s that good. As some passing climbers said, if MM was up country there would be people on it all day and I could see why. A committing swing on to the face leads to good holds and pro.
Chris getting balanced before the final tenuous moves on Monochrome Men
But as you get higher the holds and foot placements start to get thin culminating in a desperate move for the thank god holds at the top. Just brilliant.
Dave about to encounter the difficult stuff on Monochrome Men
My final climb of the day was Supercruise, a soft HVS given 4c, but really more 4b in my opinion. I think it gets the HVS for the bold moves high up where you leave your pro a way behind.
Cruising on Supercruise
Having said that, its a good climb, if a little taxing on the toes. I thoroughly enjoyed it and it is a good candidate for a warm up if your going to tackle the other more demanding E numbers at St Loy.
And with that we walked out a lot quieter than we had arrived. Exhausted but happy.
…. as Larry