Tag Archives: Joe

Climb Hard with a vengence

March 19, 2016 dillwat Leave a comment

19th March 2016

Pelitras Point

Lardus – E2 5c – TR
Red Snapper – E2 5c – TR

Now I will readily admit I dont often Top Rope, but there are some days when it is by far the best choice. This of course was one of them. It was overcast, cold and there was a chill SE blowing.

Pelitras is an amazing piece of rock, but in general the climbs here are hard. The easier variations all looked a bit wet and un-appealing, so Joe kindly set up a top rope. It was nice to sit back and let someone else organise my climbing, although I did my best to try and get the tr in the wrong place.

It was good to really test myself against something harder and both climbs delivered on the front. Red snapper has some hard opening moves to get established and then a perplexing move on the upper arete. This is off balance and the climb forces you to come at the holds from the wrong direction. Still, I got it in the end and was mighty releived.

Lardus is all about the top crack. Joe reckoned harder than 5c and I would agree, not that I’m that familiar with 5c but i can normally haul my arse up 5c. I dont know about 6a. Got it on my second attempt but only just.

I want to return here and bag all the VS’s and maybe something a bit harder, but on a sunny day perhaps.

Climbing

So this is where all the water went.

January 22, 2016 dillwat Leave a comment

22nd January 2016
Boscawen Point
Lucretia – VS 5a – Lead OS

God this winter has been awful for rain. Never ending since November so it was a real GodSend that we had a sunny Friday (even our eternal optimism was getting dampened)

However when Joe suggested Boscawen as a venue,; fair enough because it dries fast, I hadn’t anticipated that most of the rain that had fallen this winter was lying on the path in. To say we scated our way there would be fairly accurate. However, despite this it was brilliant to be back on the coast getting an eyeful of Cornwall’s best gift.

Despite a bit of wind it turned into a great day out. For me it was a return to a climb that had properly spanked me on a previous visit. To the extent I didnt even get off the ground. Hence my onsite claim 🙂 On this occasion Dave and I tackled it with zest (almost) and I grunted my way to the top never really feeling in full control but getting through each of the hard sections.

So you do this wierd hop thing and then your through the 6a move... its easy — So you do this wierd hop thing and then your through the 6a move… its easy

Lucretia is a great climb. A bit lichenous, but not so much it cant be done. Some strenuous jamming leads to an awkward niche. I spent a while here summoning up the courage to break out into the layback needed to make the next section. Its a head game really because having made the move I found it ok, if a bit tricky to place gear. Lay of the amazingly grippy edge and walk your way to the top, with a final pull to make the top jug.

To say I was pleased is an understatement. To say I was f#*!ked is an understatement. I need to climb more! We retreated to the main face where Joe and Tom were climbing something very hard. Lord Lucan I think which is 6a on the bottom moves. Fortunately I left my shoes with the bags so had a good excuse to dose off before a edgy solo out up the right hand blocks.

Joe pointed me at Luke Skywalker, a really good looking VS up the main face for next time, so I have something to aim for. The E1 looks good too, if a bit bold.

The walk out with the sun setting capped off a good return to the crags for our little gang. Lets hope the weather improves as I’m up for a good season.

Climbing

Crispy

October 3, 2015 dillwat Leave a comment

2nd October 2015

Zawn Kellys
American Dream – E1 5b – Lead

Carn Les Boel
Camelot – E3 5c – TR

Sometimes you get the bit between your teeth. This year has not been my most outstanding in climbing terms. I’ve been up and down, so why I felt the need to go for a tough E1 I dont know but I did and in hindsight I’m glad I did.

With the amazing spell of weather continuing, conditions were at their best. As Dave, Joe, Tom and I walked in the Penwith coastline did its best to draw your breath away. The sea textured like marble, azure skys and a coastline set in stark relief by the low sun.

Dave making me safe :-) — Dave making me safe 🙂

I’ve never climbed Zawn Kells so it took a while to work out the ab point. This established Dave and I dropped in just as the tide cleared the boulders at the base of AD. The wave polished rocks need to be treated with care, but the view up the line of the route takes your mind off these. Its very impressive. And it looks bloody hard! And it was!

The opening moves give you an idea of what is coming. Balncey mantleshelf followed by some fierce steep moves up to the first ‘rest’ point. From then on its a series of high quality moves on amazing rock. Two overhangs need to be overcome (both need some thought and commitment) before you arrive at the overhanging crack. This is strenuous but technically easier than I expected, although by this point I was running out of gas so it was chuch a couple fo camms in and keep moving. And suddenly everything gets less steep and your there.

Dave made a valiant effort but too many stuck cams did for him in the end and the base of the crack shrugged him off. However he did get to climb the crack three times in order to get them out – lucky git…

I was soooo pleased to get this. On a number of occasions I got that overwhelming feeling of ‘f@~k it. Just slump in your gear and have a rest. But I found myself consolidating after each mini crisis and moving on. Just brilliant and one of the best single pitches I’ve done in Cornwall.

We all met up after this and despite Dave and I lingering around chatting about our adventure, we headed off for Carn Les Boels and a look at Excalibur. As it happened we left this for another day and Joe set up a top rope so that we could have a go at Camelot an E3 5c no less. It was a strange but enjoable climb. Crispy is how I’d describe some of it. A great flake move on the bulge which looked like it might disintergrate at any moment leads to some nice moves on the upper face. A fitting end to a great day.

Now we’ve just got to wait for next week and the crap weather they’ve forecast.

Climbing

The Sea is full of diamonds

July 31, 2015 dillwat 1 Comment

31st July 2015

Chair Ladder

Kittiwake – HVS 5a – Lead (dogged)
Excelsior – E1 5b – Alt Lead

Ok, before I get started… the most surprising part of the day was when Joe told me he had never tried Marmite! That is something I intend to resolve the next time out so be prepared for Marmite Sandwiches.

Sometimes when you are out climbing you realise how blessed you are to live in Cornwall. Chair ladder could only be described as magnificent on this day and the sea rippled with millions of refracted suns making it look like it was covered with diamonds.

Eulogy to Cornwalls coast over… now to some important stuff. It’s been a while since I’ve climbed at CL and I wish it hadnt been so long. Its such a good venue. Kittiwake was one I had looked at before when on Seal Slab, but I must confess I had forgotten how steep it looked.

It didnt disappoint. The slab is fairly staright forward, but as soon as you hit the diagonal split it steepens and from then on until you clear the overhang it’s ‘power on’. I was doing great until I arrived at the overhang. Its a little run out, but to be fair I bottled it, and instead of pushing through ended up slumped in my gear. Disappointing to say the least, but this year has been a bit like that. I think I’ll get on it right away next time and proove to myself that I can do it. Strangely the wall below the overhang is littered with good holds, just a bit crumbly as you move through the overhang.

Sharing the climb with the gulls and diamons in the sea.

Joe and I have not done many climbs together recently, so it was brilliant to set ourselves up for Excelsiour. With Joe’s recent run of form in the E3 catagory, I left the two 5b pitches to him. A bit of a cop out, but I’ve been a bit up and down, so a bit of cushty seconding seemed a good idea to me.

True to form Joe blitzed the lower cracks, which are by far the hardest sequence of the route. OK until you have to make moves into the left hand crack and then push for the horizontal break. That’s where they become a bit desperate, but if you keep moving the good holds come.

I had the honour of the 5a corner. Great fun! A bit tricky and more than one way to go abut this pitch as Joe and I did it in very different ways. Joe also found the hidden hold deep in the crack, which I missed. Bummer as it helped to increase the pump for me.

The final pitch is not so much hard, but freaky. Good lower gear leads to thin moves with little or no pro until you make the upper section. Good lead by Joe as it is out there and scary. And so finished our E1 multi pitch and well worthwhile it was. 3 stars!

There was enough time left for us to barrack Dave and Tom on ‘Red Wall’ as we sat above Carn Guthenbras looking across to the Western Buttress. And yes, Tom also has a Pink top. Welcome to the club Tom.

The famous corner.. which I didnt know about!!

Climbing

25% Pink??

July 17, 2015 dillwat Leave a comment

17th July 2015

Oldwalls Point

Matchless – E1 5b – Lead

According to my DNA listing I am roughly 5% Irish, 2% Iberian, 2% North African, 46% Western European, 20% Anglo Saxon and 25% Viking or Pink as the boys put it. I prefer the analogy with hairy arsed, ax wielding, pillaging fellas from up north personally.

Mind you, being part viking would help on a day like this, where the walk in was equally as terrifying as the climb. Teetering pile of choss is a good description for the area around Oldwalls Point. Looking at the huge fin of rock I wonder how long it can survive. I’m glad I got on it now.

After a sketchy traverse onto the ridge above the wall/slab you are faced with an abseil down a grassy gully and down to the beach. Pete, using his particular branch of warped logic felt that extending the gully out onto the wall might create a fun situation. It duly obliged, launching him into an arc across the face resulting in ‘resistable force meets very immoveable object’. Hence Pete spent the rest of the day bleeding over the beach and anything else that came close to him.

Chris and I set up for matchless, which was … well ‘matchless’. Its quite unique in the climbs I’ve done, with a full on wall experience which makes mincemeat of your toes. The crux is fairly low down ( I always hate that) with a series of difficult moves past a rusting old peg. The committing part is starting off past the peg. Tiny holds and smeary foot placements get you into slightly better territory, but not enough to set and place gear, so I had to push on a ways until a nice thank god hold appears allowing for everything to calm down.

A rest of sorts but your feet are screaming by now!

From there it just keeps coming at you, consistently good climbing with pretty good gear up to the pancake. The next dilema is ‘push on through the veritable forest’ or take the clean unprotected arete. I took the arete which is fairly easy but needs to be treated with real care.

Chris about to find out the Pancake isnt any easier

All in all, a fantastic route which Chris smiled his way up, with a few cheek puffing moments. I think this one suits both our techniques which is why we were so chuffed with the route.

Meanwhile Joe was fighting his way up More than a match, the E3 next to Matchless. It looks to be in a similar vein except for some grunty moves at the bottom. It does have a 5c move so one to consider for the future maybe. Thats if I can be pursuaded to clamber back across the nightmare that is the walk in and out.

Pete, Chris and I exited off the beach, saving the most dubious climbing until the end with Chris nearly getting stuch in a pile of shale and Pete threading his way up through a boulder field and remarking on how one particular boulder the size of a Mini was loose. It happeded to be right above me and thankfully he treated it with kid gloves.

Now the most scary part. Explaining Pete’s injuries to Melis!!!

Climbing

Jet Wash

July 3, 2015 dillwat Leave a comment

3rd July 2015

Penberth Cove

Nicks Niche – Severe – 4a Second

Horney – VS 4c – Second

Penberth was of course the original venue at which Iwas introduced to climbing by Bart. It therefore holds very fond memories for me and returning there is never a chore.

A new member of our group came along. For Harrison it was his first experience of outdoor climbing and my thought was that Penberth provided a good venue where we could tackle a few reasonably graded routes while at the same time introducing him to the safety routines and climbing protocols that he’ll need when we go to the more serious venues like Bosi or Chair Ladder (no I wouldnt… not yet anyway).

So during the course of the day we visited some Penberth classics such as Nicks Niche and The Hornet, as well as spending some time in Area 5 which needs a low tide. It was good practice for Chris and I as well as we went though some of the basics, which we always need refreshers on.

The rising tide, which almost caught us on Nicks Niche ( a wave actually spat just past me soaking the whole climb but miraculaously missing me!!) eventually pushed us to the Hornet where Chris and Harrison on his first attempt, made short work of of what I had always found a difficult climb. Must have been me then…

Harrison on the face left of Nicks Niche

Meanwhile Joe and Tom had mooched over to Porthguarnon to something very hard (around E3 I believe), but did return for a quick run on Groucho.

There are two E1’s here at Penberth which I would like to try, so I might pay a mornings vist on the way through on one of our outings and try and get on them.

Climbing

How wide is your gatehole?

April 17, 2015 dillwat 1 Comment

17th April 2015

Bosigran Ridge Area

Waltzing Matilda – HVS 5b – Alt Lead (Dogged)
Mandalay – HVS 5a – Second
Anzac Day – E1 5b – Lead
Imphal – E2 5c – Second (Dogged)

… is not a question you should be asking any of your friends!! This was the finale to a superb day at Bosi Ridge Area where I managed to put ticks in a load of climbs I had been eyeing up. Not sure where this conversation was going, but I’m glad Nick didnt know the answer to Toms question. 🙂

Joe, Tom, Nick and I were obviously hungry to get on some good routes and as there was nothing there easier than HVS 5a we had to up our game immediately. Joe and Tom went for the tough corner of Imphal and Nick and I ended up on Waltzing Matilda.

Wow, what a route. Two amazing pitches. The first with a hard short traverse to the Arete which Nick led with aplomb. Then a long traverse out across the upper wall of Galipolli. I got this one and was shocked at how hard it felt. I was going along great guns when instead of thinking through a section I committed in, and found myself sliding off and ending up down on Kohima. It made for an interesting return to the traverse and I cant say I wasnt disappointed. But more importantly I got to do a fantastic route. I must stop falling off stuff!!

Manadaly was a good ‘get your breath back’ route, although gear is tricky on the crux and its an exposed move on the crux. Nick made short work of it though.

So I decided on Anzac Day next. A very patient Nick stood silently while I went through the full range of Freudien self doubt, anxiety, bullishness, indecision, euphoria and any number of other mental states you can think of. Reasonably pathetic and not something I’m used to, but in the end I started again and did it in one. Really pleased I did because this was a terrific climb. Akward in the lower section and then great jug hauling through the overhang.

Meanwhile Joe was leading Galipoli, probably the choice of the crag. I knew he and Tom would like this one, and they did. Both making the hard move onto the face.

Nick was right on his game and I knew he wanted Imphal. It is not an easy climb. Lots of jamming and bridging and some precarious positions. Nick, with his ability to make a T shape seemed to be in balance all the way. I on the other hand was not quite so tuned in, although it was only one small slip that cost me the onsite. It was actually encouraging for me and an excellent tic for Nick. Both Joe and Tom who had been on it earlier, were in my category, although of course Joe had the added complications of leading it.

Dolphinarium and start of Waltzing Matilda

The walk out from sea-level with full packs is not a pleasant one, but when you are buzzing it doesnt really matter. The is the one remaining issue. Who of us will be the first on Dolphinarium, the E1 on the nose. Looks scary hard!

Climbing

The new improved moving belay….

April 6, 2015 dillwat Leave a comment

6th April 2015

Carn Barra

Weasle – VS 4c – Lead
Sea Fox – HS 4b – Second
Rapido – E1 5a – TR

When you anchor yourself in at the top of a climb the most reassuring aspect is the ‘imouveable’ feeling of the rock around you. There again, you can find yourself in among a heap of large fairly unstable boulders which you can re arrange to construct a sort of bespoke belay. “I think I’ll have a rock here” and “actually that boulder might be better at this angle”.

The stack above Rapido and Sea Fox was just this kind of jumble. Safe, but slightly disconserting when a 2 ton boulder moves around a bit.

My list above doesnt include two very steep routes which Joe and Tom spent the day on. Mean Street a hard E4 and Sunny Corner Lane and equally hard E3. Probably too much for me and Dave, but after their recent training regime, Tom and Joe tackled them with relish.

Dave and I went exploring down the South end of Carn Barra. I’d always intended to repeat Weasle and the distant memory of exposed commiting moves past the overhung corners soon came flooding back. This really is a totally underated route. For VS it is very good value, probably being nearer 5a and def close to HVS. The excellent pro probably makes it VS but dont let this fool you. It’s still scary…

So returning to the platform we set off on a fun sea level traverse with the small waves washing around our feet. A quick chimney above a rock pool led to a hidden area and Sea Fox. This follows two steep 90 degree corners, needing a fair amount of lay backing and trusting your feet. It is a bit crunchy at the top, but otherwise is a great climb. It probably needs more traffic to tidy it up.

Rapido - Follows the right hand arete — Rapido – Follows the right hand arete

Rapido is a technical E1. Not strenous or pumpy it has a couple of balancey moves around 5a. The reason it is given E1 is because the first pro of any value is at half height and although the flake provides placements I’m not sure I’d trust them. This is why we top roped it! It is one that I know I could lead fairly easily, but its one I never will (because I dont want to die). The slightly unreliable holds adds the final dimension to a good but lethal route.

Carn Barra continues to deliver. Maybe next time I’ll get on Illustrated Man and tick that one. Who knows.

Climbing

Little guns….. “Meet the Beak”

March 20, 2015 dillwat Leave a comment

21st March 2015

Porth Loe Buttress

The Beak – E1 5b – Lead (dnf)
Times Remembered – HS 4b – Lead

This was well and truly the first proper day of spring. Equinox, Eclipse, New Moon. And mega sunshine.

The conditions transpired to make Porth Loe Buttress appear to be the best venue in Cornwall. There is a stunning backdrop across towards Carn Guthenbras, the sea was an amazing blue and the granite immaculate. Add good friends and it was just perfect.

We’d never been here before and yet we’ve walked past it loads. Probably because of the more major attractions of Fox Prom and Carn Bara. The descent is down a narrow steep grassy gully with a cool gearing up ledge. The final section is climbable, but more relaxed on a short abb. The platform at the bottom provides a spectacular location with a few really good clims.

Dave and Chris set off on Eileen and multi pitch severe on the left looking towards the cliff. A bit damp, it nevertheless looked very good and challenging. High in the grade I think.

Tom, Joe and I set up for The Beak which I was lucky (unlucky maybe) enough to get to lead both pitches. The first is some tricky manouvering into a great crack. Layback and commit and you’re OK. The top pitch is mental thuggery. A hard groove leads to a massive overhang Both I and Joe looked at the actul beak, but this seemed really unlikely at 5b, and the description of ‘well protected’ in the guide is a loose one. Yes there is gear in the bottom face of the o/h but once up into the beak there is nothing and you’d take a pretty good lob.

I found a flake just left of the beak which seemed more positive and protectable. Good job really because after 15 determined attempts I fell off. Thankfully Tom caught me but it was still freaky and lead to the loss of much skin. I just couldnt do it… not quite strong enough, but very close. I was within a whisker of making it.

Tom suffered from the same problem as me, but Mr Muscles Joe cranked through it remarking that he’d wished he’d ‘warmed up a bit’.

Times Remembered is great. The top giant flakes are hard to unlock and pro is sparce, but the climbing is engrossing. More importantly the view across to the couple of idiots on the Eastern Buttress provided grand entertainment. There was a reason the big rock at the base of the climb was wet… it’s called the sea and Chris very nearly became intimate with it on this day. We were having bets on how long they’d last, but to be fare it did look very exciting. Adds a new spice to the climb when there is the chance you could be doing it underwater.

So what a day. One of those that will stick for a while and one that just makes you want more and more.

To good friends……

Climbing

Com’on Joe, stop arsing about!

March 13, 2015 dillwat Leave a comment

13th March 2015

Pedn-Men-An-Mere

Pink Sea Slab – V Diff – Lead
Devils Meridian – E2 5c – TR Dogged
Bermuda Wall – E3 5c – TR

One of the things I always like to believe is that I am cautious and careful when it comes to safety when we’re climbing. On a glorious day at Pedn-Men-An-mere I seemed to have a complete aberation of common sense and forget all my own well established safety protocols.

This would account for why Joe landed on his arse when he slid of Bermuda Wall, despite being on a top rope. 8mm rope (which should have been doubled up to compensate for rope stretch; belayer sat down (not the most attentive position); rope hadnt been stretched out off the anchors, so too much slack in the system. A litany of errors.

It is good that it happened on a top rope in a way. Hopefully Joe was just shaken and not damaged. I know it has shaken me up and I need to get back to good ways. There is always a lot of trust to build with your belayer and I need to re establish that.

However, it was also a great days climbing. Joe sent Devils Meridian (I didnt get anywhere near it dogging my way up) but I will hopefully get it next time. Also we both successfully got up Bermuda Wall, via a really tough series of opening moves.

Devils Meridian has a very hard middle section where foot placement and balance (with a bit of strength) are needed. It has a bit of everything- finger jams, laybacks, pinches and jug hauling. On a lead the hard part would be getting gear in. There is lots, but you have to have a free hand….

Bermuda Wall is just great, but hard. Joe rekkoned 6a for the lower moves and I wouldnt argue. Tiny crimps and pinches lead to some crazy underclings. Then a massive reach and finally a tough traverse. What more could you ask for.

Pink Sea Slab is not V Diff. I repeat ‘Not V Diff’. Its a great climb with some good slab moves and a wild finish, but pro is insecure and the final haul over a bulge is more in keeping with VS. It also needs good ropework and a careful eye on some decidedly dogey rock. I’m not selling it am I? It is well worthwhile though with loads of exposure and some great positions. Just not V Diff.