On this particular day my success rate was to be measured by the number of failures I achieved. That said, it was a really enjoyable days climbing and it made a real change to be able to unleash on a climb and not have to worry about gear or a leader fall.
I also found my level. Although I could do the moves on most of the routes, what I couldnt do was link them together in some cohesive fashion that would have enabled me to clean a whole route. But it was good to know that I could do a 6a move, even if it took me a few attempts.
Joe of course was smashing everything, but I realise that if I am to push my grade at some point this is something I’m going to have to do more of. Without actually practicing ome moves at this level I would have no idea what was in store for me.
My favourite two routes were Trouble with Lichen and Double agent. Both very technical in different ways, but both really satisfying when you had worked the moves out. TWL I managed on about my 6th attempt, but finally realised what I needed to do. DA was a case of not being strong enough. Maybe after some indoor training I’ll be able to do the upper moves, but not yet.
I think I might return to Cheeswring for a bit more ‘training’. I also fancy Warrior at some point.
Solid Air – VS 4b – Lead Shivering Timbers – VS 4b – Second
Every surfers dream is to find a secret spot. Somewhere where you get perfect waves all to yourself while others thrash around in surfer soup at the popular venues. Well we almost have found that spot. Only problem is that its so hard to get to. Probably why no one else surfs it. But in my mind it is exactly why you should make the effort to go there…
Everyone loves a waterfall
Its no easy task getting to Gull Rock. There are a few ways, all of which are strenuous. Either over the top which looks horrific or along the boulder beach which we did and which requires concentration. An hour of threading your way through what is basically an obstacle course is tiring, but definitely worth it.
Gul rock is reminiscent of a number of venues on the Culm. Steep climbing with thin foot placements and crimps or cracks. The gear as usual is hard to find but reliable once you’ve got it. Small nuts and the odd cam.
Tom on the shear faces at Gull Rock
Both the VS’s Dave and I climbed were on the bold side in places, or at least they felt bold. I think in reality its because you have to work quite hard to find it. From the ground up both routes look difficult, but the culm hides its ledges and incuts deviously and once you embark things start to come together. Solid Air has a few tricky moves at mid height and Shivering Timbers saves its for late in the ascent. But both are worth 2 stars, although I wouldnt necessarily mark them down as classics, just very good climbs.
Looking up Solid Air
Gull Rock gets cut off after mid tide so we had to make tracks reasonably early on. When we arrived we had abseiled off the saddle around Haile Selassie. But other than climbing out and hauling our bags, the only other way out was to walk. Still with the breathtaking views on offer this was arduous.
The perfect left
I have unfinished business at Gul Rock in Walking on the Moon and a perfect left, so no doubt I’ll be back soon.
Nipped in the Buddha – VS 4c – Second Little Black Dress – EC 5B – TR Brother Chris – E3 5c – TR (dgd)
Dave had been wittering on about NITB for ages so it was only fair to let him have his moment (of fear). NITB is one of those VS’s that doesnt look too bad until your trying to find your equilibrium as you move up into the groove. From the ground it is quite steep. From the groove it is overhanging. Either way it’s not easy.
Joe pose….
After I had dropped the ab rope into the sea we dropped down onto the ledge below NITB. For a change most of the climbs were dry. Unusually.
Before the groove NITB
The Black Zawn never really looks inviting but the truth is that there are a large number of high quality climbs here. The harder varieties suffer from a distinct lack of gear, but the moves and holds are brilliant. Most of the E numbers are on the buttress starting right of The English Way and heading all the way around to the seaward face. A awkward traverse gets you to Merchants of Menace a very good looking E2 which I think I’ll have a go at one day.
Top Groove ofNITB
Dave made NITB look relatively easy, which it isnt. A sloping slab leads to difficult moves up into the groove. Then its a case of using the angles to make it easier for an exciting finale.
Dave does E2
The E2 was an excellent climb, but leading it would have been a different proposition. Very little gear, particularly protecting the crux moves which were fiddly before you arrived at the jugs.
Whooo Whoo!
The E3 was superb. Beyond me to clean it on this day, but what a climb. It looks so unlikely from below, but as the guidebook says, miraculous holds appear when you need them. Unfortunately for me I didnt see one of the hidden miraculous holds so had to rest about half way. But for the main part it is just excellent move after excellent move. I’d love to say I’d lead this but I’d have to have a closer look at the gear first.
Boy this lad can climb.
A tired group of three discussed Joes horrendous feet before a steep walk out on a stunning evening with a huge moon rising over the fields and part noises drifting across from Polzeath. The end of a good day.
Good Moon Rising
And as a final point. How can you not know if a chicken is dead or not. Daves hutch cooked chickens some how rose from the dead – maybe they are Frankenchickens.
Thane – E1 5b – Lead Gneiss Gnome – HS 4b – Second The Stormbringer – E3 5c – TR (dnf)
I love Carn Kenidjack! It’s official. Probably the crag of my best leads and always a ground breaker when it comes to grades.
Cape Cornwall
So Thane isnt any higher in the grade than any other E1… but sometimes it is reputation that counts and Thane, thought to be easier than Rock Dancer by many, is less attempted. Why?? Cos its f#*king scary that’s why.
Working hard in the upper groove
There are two sequences on the climb, one fairly low down and then another once established in the upper groove. Both are above your gear and both are a bit iffy for your head. It makes for a really interesting battle between your head and your feet. Head says ‘Go!’, feet say ‘Nope.. I’m going to stay right here where its safe’.
Me on the upper groove
In the end, after my usual deliberations I went for both moves and both were OK, although my advice to others would be to keep going once you commit, because there are a number of moves before you reach more gear.
So sat here in the safety of my home I can say that Thane was an incredible climb, full of character and with some great moves. At the time of climbing I might have given a different opinion, but it is a big tick for me as it has long been on my list of ‘wanna’s’
Looking up Thane
Of course it wouldnt be fair for me to hog all the epics so Dave had his own version on Gneiss Gnome, discovering that the lower slab is particularly run out for a Hard Severe. Fortunately Tom did leave something for Dave to climb after his attempt to destroy the cliff when having a go on Seiging the Castle a long lost E4 5c which tackles the crack in the face to the left. Ripping breeze blokes off the cliff is just not cricket.
Line of Gneiss Gnome
Joe was as usual smashing his way through ridiculously difficult routes. I let him persuade me into attempting an E3 5c on the top rope. Having seem Joe on the crux, I knew it would be difficult, but my general power let me down on what was a really good route. Just need that explosive burst and I might have made it. Note to muscles ‘must get stronger’.
Joe checking out The Stormbringer
And so ended another epic day on the crag. I am absolutely bursting to get out again now. Thane has instilled a bit of confidence in the system. It was needed.
The header just about summed up my feelings as I started on the opening moves of Blue for the umpteenth time (8 or 9 attempts at least). A period of inactivity, too much good food and a liberal dose of wet rock was playing devestating games with my confidence.
OK, lets try not to break anything here….
A actually really like Lands End. There is something special about climbing on the tip of England and as usual the views are stunning. If there is a down side it would be the varying rock quality, which can feel insecure and crumbly. This is possibly due to lack of traffic, but the integrity of the rock does change.
Heading for a little sit down
Joe and Nick were definitely suffering from this over on Dr Syntax’s Head, finding some nasty HVS’s to occupy themselves on. Meanwhile Dave, me and Pete were wrestling with Blue. From below it looks reasonably inoccuous. But this hides the steepness and difficulty of the opening moves. It overhangs for a start and the holds are small.
Your a Bas#*rd Riddell
Gear is OK but you make the difficult moves above it until you reach the first break. With wet holds I continually found myself slipping off until after one abortive attempt where I had to lower off, I managed to climb it clean. I was so stuffed by the end though. Absolutely drained in fact.
Dave looking very calm and collected
Its a great climb in fact, but not HS and harder than 4b. VS 4c probably, because of the opening moves and the top jam. The wet didnt help, but it was still hard.
“So anyway. As I was throwing for this dyno mono……..”
Good on Pete for a stirling effort after a long period of semi retirement. Good to see him back on it and no mishaps on this day. Dave, who is climbing better and better made short work of it. Many thanks for the patience they both showed in waiting for me to sort my head out.
Nick on some kind of Mare at DSH
I am going to return here and repeat this one in good conditions (and the tough and bold looking VS to its side), hopefully on the same day I bag Cormorants Bill. 🙂
“So anyway. As I was throwing for this dyno mono……..”
Aboriginal Sin – E3 – Second
Casablanca – E2 – Alt Lead
Rendezous Manque – V Diff – Lead
Sometimes you have a vision of how a climb will be. I imagine myself climbing it and invent the holds, hoping they will be as good in real life. On a beautiful sunny day, Joe and I stood below Aboriginal Sin and I considered whether I was in good enough form to actually get up it.
The guidebook describes a series of juggy flakes leading to ‘the fang’ that sticks up at the end of the steeply rising and overhanging crack. Easy then! Get on it and move quickly until you can get hold of the juggy fang.
Joe below Aboriginal Sin
After creating a bomber nest of gear Joe launched out for the fang and as I watched him fight with the crack and eventually grab the fang, I realised that this was going to be really tough. Of course it’s not over at this point and Joe had another sequence to negotiate before it was my turn.
Now in my mind the holds were going to be positive flakes and the main problem pure grunt. No, the main problem is that the jugs are actually rounded and not positive and so my first attempt ended in some air time. The second time I was lucky that Joe kept me on a tight rope as I used my last reserves to gratefully hug the fang, gasping for air and with my poor arms blown. Of course the exploding hold which literally dissolved in my hand didn’t inspire confidence and nearly shrugged me off again. Still, I got up it in the end and what a great feeling. Brilliant lead by Joe, who is going from strength to strength.
Dave on Silent Movie
We joined Tom and Dave who were having there own route fest, baggy some of the class VS and HVS of the main cligg. These really are good climbs, if a bit bold at times.
Happy, Happy Joe 🙂
My initial suggestion of a VS traverse turned into a two pitch E2 after both me and Joe liked the look of Casablanca. I led the opening 5a pitch which was great fun. Not difficult, but nervy as the gear comes late. Joes lead of the top crack was another stirling effort. My try ended up with me jammed in the crack facing the wrong way. It was only when I extricated myself and faced the right way that the finishing moves became possible. Still a really good route and maybe I’ll try the top crack on the lead next time if I’m feeling brave.
Before the hard move
Joe and I finished up a V Diff chimney (great…?) with a laughable belay on boulders that were more likely to kill you than save you. And so at the end of a hot, sunny and memorable day it was icecreams/drinks and a contented drive home.
Willie’s Way – HVS 5a – Alt Lead Flake Wall – VS 4c – Alt Lead
There are times when you wonder how your body and your mind get along. The body is willing, but the mind says ‘No!’. It doesnt matter how hard you try, it is sometimes very difficult to conquer this.
the pro in the ‘relatively’ secure chimney/overhang
Poor Dave had to watch me going through a mental epic on the overhang of Willie’s Way. I knew I could do it. I felt strong, but my head had no intentions of giving in easily.
And so I went up and went back down again numerous times before Dave gave some sound advice and said to come back down, compose myself and rest, and try again. And so on about the 7th attempt I just went for it and surprise, I made it. It was good to know that Dave also found it hard, so I had at least some justification for my hesitancy. Many thanks to Dave for being so patient and positive.
The ab in. You cant see the rock pool cleverly placed at the bottom.
We went to Tater Du because of the wind conditions and it turned out to be a good call. Sun for most of the day and good shelter. Willie’s Way has been on my ‘To do’ list for ages. Ever since I went to Tater Du with Bart and did Bus Route the adjacent V Diff. All three pitches are worthwhile with a rising degree of difficulty. The main event is the short V Chimney and capping overhang.
These are big moves on relatively big holds, but you are effectively on a 90 degree slope for the overhang. It is a case of finding the right sequence because once you commit (eventually 🙂 ) there’s no going back. But the pumpyness is short lived and the pro good. The rock looks suspect, but is solid and seems reliable. Great route and maybe I’ll do it again just to prove to myself I can get over that fear factor.
Joe going for the move over the overhang on Lamorna Wall.
Tom and Joe meanwhile were on their own epic Lamorna Wall. A fantastic looking E2 going up through the middle of the main wall. By all accounts its all about the move through the overhang which looked nails.
Joe moving up the faceTom and Joe high on Lamorna Wall
But the situations looked incredible. Of course this was just a prelude to Tom finding a nasty chimney to do in Fat Panda! How come Tom likes chimneys so much – I dont see the attraction lol . By all accounts this one was sparcely protected too.
Our second climb (if we were anywhere near on the right route) was Flake Wall. The first pitch parallels WW but hugging the arete with a final bold pull onto the big ledge. The guide book description says to cross the blocky overhang, so thats what Dave did. Whether it was the right overhang I have no idea, but Dave set off and encountered his own epic.
Dave on the traverse on Flake Wall
You’d think it was a lot easier than tackling the overhang direct, but the reality is that its just as committing. Same initial gear but then a wild swing out left and some awkward foot placements on the crumbling ‘flake wall’. Then its up andover. Less steep, but still lots of exposure.
Me finishing Flake Wall
So two great routes and Dave and I were both buzzing. Add to this one of the most beautiful locations in Cornwall and you have an ‘epic’ day.
the pro in the ‘relatively’ secure chimney/overhang
Tom and Joe high on Lamorna Wall
Joe moving up the face
I could hang here for days.
Joe going for the move over the overhang on Lamorna Wall.
Beauty. The scenery that is…
The ab in. You cant see the rock pool cleverly placed at the bottom.
Joy Direct – VS 4c – Lead William’s Chiney – HVS 5b – Lead
Your laces should not really be an issue in climbing, unless you lose the ability to tie them. This seemed to be the case on Williams Chimney with both of mine coming undone. The Virgo in me then kicked in and I couldnt get settled until I’d re-tied them. What a faff. Back to school then where I can learn to double knot them.
Shoes aside it was a great afternoon. First time back at Trewavas for a while and two good climbs bagged.
Joy Direct is a climb I mistakenly thought I had already done. I have done Joy and I have done a variation which breaks left, but not the correct route. So this was a good one to pick. Except that it was a lot more difficult than I thought from the bottom. Gear is good, but you place it on power. The route is slight akilter, so you’re never really comfortable. And it sprobably not the best warm up as your straight into it. Still good fun, although Dave had a traumatic time trying to remove a nut stuchk on the crux. His arm’ ees were soon sorted out and I think it took the rest of the session for him to recover.
Dave approaching the chimney on Williams Chimney
Williams chimney I knew would be reasonably tough, but I didnt realise how good it was. A bit of everything- thin groove and face climbing, crimpy pulls and a narrow chimney. For me the crux was lower down negotiating the groove. For Dave it was the move into the chimney where my height probably gave me the advantage. Only just 5b and definitely more HVS than E1 which some have suggested. That said it is top of its grade.
The walk out on a perfect evening
Still a really satisfying climb and a good bit of progression in what has been a poor year so far for climbing. I now need to return and do South Groove and West Wing. A definite for my next trip there.
I dont know how many times I’ve been to Bosi and yet it still seems possible to pick up new lines, even in an area like Red Slab.
Tom and Dave synchronising
Rapture actually takes an obvious line through the overlaps, but cuts across about 4 routes in doing so, so not one to do on a busy day… It has two committing step ups but the gear in general is good and the holds are really positive. You get the full exposure of the Ding face, taking a line slightly higher than the Ding alcove but below the flake of Belle.
Tom on Rapture
Its just really good climbing at the grade. The second pitch swings out wide on the flank of the wall, but Tom included the chimney of Ding to spice things up and then broke out onto a great slab near the top. This gives exposed climbing but up a friendly slab. All in all a top VS and it should have stars in the book.
Neanwhile Dave was bagging an HVS in the form of Belle, another terrific climb on this wall. This takes the higher flake which is abit more committing. Good job on this for Dave this early in the year.
Dave on Belle
Unfortunately the morning was marred by wet rock as Joe and I were unable to tackle our main objectives. Joe wanted to try Kohima and I was looking at Dolphinarium and Variety Show in the Great Zawn. Still, thats for next time.
Well this was good for a leg workout. I decided to take the right hand buttress down from the Coastguard lookout in the mistaken belief I could get to Sluice from the ‘Crystal’ section of crag. All this got me was a long walk back out with a full pack so I could drop down the other side.
The waves always create the mood on any climbing day
Then of course I lobbed my belay device into the sea (wouldnt be the same if I didnt sacrifice gear at Carn Gowla) so had to haul another one up just to ab in. Not an auspicious start. But it did get a lot better.
A slab like biscuit
I arrived a bit late to find Joe on something rediculously hard and overhanging. Desire an E2 5c with a wicked strenuous crack. Nothing new there then! After sorting out a lack of a second rope, Dave and I finally got started on Sluice a strange but enjoyable HVS on the corner of the buttress. With a good swell running the whole area was pretty dramatic and Sluice added some spice being crumbly and unreliable on the hold front.
Dave nearing the top of the upper slab on Sluice
There is a short but slightly bold start which leads to a couple of ‘bomber??’ threads. Then you move up and over the overhang onto the upper slab. Its a great exposed move onto some thin foot flakes. Tread lightly as they dont take much to break as Dave found out. Then a final nervous sequence up the wall on good but strange and sharp holds. I didnt want to load them son spent most of my time getting my feet right. For our first evening out this was great fun and hopefully lots more Gowla adventures to come.
Carn Growlerrrrr
I might even go back and try Desire one day if I’m feeling particularly strong 🙂
Carn Growlerrrrr
After the move out onto the slab
The waves always create the mood on any climbing day
A slab like biscuit
Dave nearing the top of the upper slab on Sluice
Why it never rains on a Friday!
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