Any excuse to return to Balck Head is a good one, although I think Joe may have had his doubts this time.
Ian on Archangel
My assurance that ‘Balck Head will be sheltered. Dont worry’ was misguided to say the least. The Wind is from the South West. I though you said North West I lied. I just got it wrong really.
Tom mid crux on Archangel
But, and its a lucky but, when we got down to the water shoot gulley it wasnt too bad. While Joe set up a top rope, Tom and I did Archangel. It looks deceptively easy from the bottom, but has a tricky crux and a boldish top out becasue of the fragile rock up there. This was the second time I’d led it and it was just as much fun. It really is a tremendous crack/corner climb. Safe but hard enough to add spice.
The steep Rebel Yell
Rebel yell was a lot more difficult. There appears to be more pro than the guide boook suggests and although strenuous, it is manageable. I will be back to lead this, hopefully this summer. It has small holds and vanishing foot placements which bizarrely are there for your hands and disappear for your feet. Very weird.
Looking for foot placements
The tide eventually chased us off, starting to shoot up the gulley with alarmingly increasing force. So we returned the long route back to the car at Treleaver Farm (because the fu!#ing farmer has shut the permissive footpath on the grounds of a bull – 6 months ago. Tosser) satisfied with a couple of good climbs. I’ll be back in the good weather for another climb and a swim.
The Drum – HVS 5b – Lead (dnf) then TR Grindeer – E2 5B – TR Drifters – E1 5c – Retrieve gear (and some sneaky practicing)
We made this day a real cack handed ordeal. One we should have driven to Lands End and not walked all the way from Porthgwarra and two, we should have recognised a series of sandbags when we arrived!
Cool lefty
It was though a terrific day, with lots of hard climbing and some really challenging routes. I started the day trying to lead The Drum. An excellent HVS running up a crack line on the left of the main face. From the ground it looks innocuous and well protected. It’s neither.
Carn Boel from the South
I havnt felt so pumped for ages. A proper test of my ability to keep hanging on. Placing gear was strenuous, climbing was strenuous, staying still was strenuous (you get the idea). I felt like Popeye by time I eventually succumbed and slumped into my gear. It was all a matter of mental state.
Tom on the crux of the Drum
By time I reached the crux I was pumped and couldnt find any gear. I knew in my mind that once I committed there was no going back and it looked poor for gear. This was actually an accurate forecast as it was. For HVS it is remarkably bold. I think it would be E1 in most peoples books. Definitely 5b though.
Pulling onto the main slab
So all pumped up I tried again on the top rope and this time went straight through. Of course without having to place gear. One I will try again maybe later in the season.
Joe on Grindeer
Meanwhile Joe was having his own epic on Drifters. Another one where gear is hard to come by and the climbing suprisingly dificult. It did for Joe on this occasion (unusually), but I expect he will be back shortly to tame it.
The tricky moves onto the main wall
We all (Tom, Dave, Joe and I) had a go on the E2, which actually proved to be OK. Tough again with some amazing moves into the vertical crack, but manageable.
Me on Grindeer
This spot is great for a winters days climbing. Above the sea, sheltered with great views. We were lucky to get this on this day as the weather came in with a vengance on the walk back.
Shame Dave and Tom chose to take the long walk to the car. Pay attention!!!!
Gelert – HS 4b – Lead Pudsey – VS 4c – Second Wasp Pant Terror – HVS 4c – Lead Cro Magnon Man – E2 5b/5c – TR Dogged
With the cold snap continuing we knew we needed somewhere out of the wind and preferably in the sun. Favorable tides also meant we could explore some of the less well known venues around Porthgwarra which would be on the lee side.
I keep walking past these locations thinking that ‘one day I’ll check them out’. On this occasion, armed with some exploration knowledge we picked up last time we went to Carn Barra, we dropped down to Black Carn North.
Chris on his way on Gelert
Its a tricky descent at first crossing some pretty loose ground and a gulley which is steep. Once onto the seaward rocks its OK though. If you go, drop down before the obvious wall and keep to the right of the gulley. Then follow rocks down and around to the right facing out to sea. You’ll eventually get there.
Very cool shot
The obvious attractive line on this small but friendly crag is Pudsey. An angled line across the face below Cro Magnon the elephant in the room. As it happens its not the best despite appearances. My favorite on the day was Gelert. Great moves for HS and a good thoughtful move into the upper crack.
Chris not suffering from Wasp Pant Terror.
Pudsey is all about a couple of moves fairly low down, although it looks harder. Chris made short work of it. Good, but no cigar. The weird looking and sounding Wasp Pant Terror proved quite good with a couple of great mantleshelves and a final bold series of moves to the top. I really enjoyed it. Not strenuous, but quite technical.
I’m sure I know what this is for????
Of course Joe had his eye on the main obstacle on the crag Cro Magnon Man. I can see why they call it this. The top has an uncanny prehistoric look to it. The moves though are great. Crimpy and thin on the lower face, it finishes with slopers which are just waiting for the unwary. I of course was one of the unwary’s. I thought I had it but as I barn doored off I realised it needed a bit more thought. Second attempt I unlocked it using a finger jam to keep my balance. Not one for the tall as you get compressed into a ball! Fun though.
Precariou. Joe on the pinnacle
This is a crag to come back to next winter when we’re looking for a sheltered spot. I’m sure there are more routes to find here so I might do a bit more exploring next time I’m over there and cant climb because of conditions.
Carn Kenidjack was the better of the two venues for shelter. Tucked away in a narrow zawn it protects you from the worst of the wind and on this day that was a bonus.
Cape Cornwall. Great name ..Cape
Setting up a top rope at Kenidjack is not easy. All the anchors are set well back and they dont line up on the belay spot. Me and Joe made a pretty good job of it in the end… good enough to feel safe anyway.
I really enjoyed the climb and I know Joe did too by the smile on his face. It is steady for the most part but has its moments. A bold start and finish and a tough crux. If I was to lead this I would want to do it in perfect conditions as overall it is a bold lead. I couldnt help but keep glancing across to Thane. Must do that the next time we are here.
Big swell in the bay
It was then off for a bit of an explore at Carn Clogh. I remebered there were a couple of HVS’s here and though we might try them. With a howling wind we set up below Nutse, a fierce looking HVS that tackles an overhang.
The line of Nutse
For a change I took it on (I was wondering why when trying to pull through the crux). It is really all about negotiating the overhang. It looks unlikely but the holds are there. You just have to find them. Fortunately I did and it turned out to be a great, although unsteady, climb.
By time we finished we could barely stand still so it was off homwe with a good buzz and mucho windburn.
Big swell in the bay
Somber day for climbing. Shame you cant see the wind.
NC Madness – VS 4c – Lead Go Shorty – E2 5c – Second (dnf) Hard Times – E1 5c – Lead (dogged) Boulder Problem – HVS 5b – Second
Where do you go when the BMC meet is on and most venues will have climbers galore. Rosemergy seemed a good bet although we were joined by another couple for a change.
Sundog – E1 5b – Second (dogged) Shambhalla – E1 5b – Lead
The coast towards St Just
It has been a while since Joe and I have climbed together, so it was really good to get back to old ways again. I had forgot Joe’s habit of looking at the hardest route on a crag and then going for it. But this time it paid dividends.
Through the tough bits
I’ve been on a few of the faces at Trewellard but Joe’s abseil dropped us straight onto the main face and a couple of really top routes. The first, led by Joe was Sundog.
Joe pre crux on Sundog
Even from below the crux looked tough, going through a slightly overhanging bulge of rock with little pro and small finger holds. It was a top effort by Joe who pulled through the section after getting in some high gear. Unfortunately I wasnt so fortunate. The small crimps beat me and with only inches to go I peeled off. Its a shame because the rest of the climb was tricky but manageable. Clearly Joe’s efforts on the training walls we have scattered at our various houses has paid off and I think I might be following him up some even harder routes this year.
Bart leading on the West Face
Meanwhile Bart and Tom were gradually working thier way through the routes on the West Face which was basking in warm sunshine. I always found these to be bold for their grade, but quality climbing. Both Tom and Bart were leading building up their confidence no doubt for Sardinia.
Dave and Chris on Goldsworthy Buttress
Speaking of which, this was the first occasion the full island crew were together as Dave and Chris were have an exciting time on Return of the Lemming a bold VS on Goldsworthy Buttress. So this is what we can look forward to??
Me on Shambhalla
My lead was on Shambhalla, an HVS in the book but an E1 on UKC. I think it was probably somewhere in the middle. A hard HVS or an easy E1. Although I didnt find the crux and mid section easy, struggling again to get my head into gear. I did it though and that is great and a real confidence booster. Definitely not as hard as Joe’s E1.
The balancy section
Bart, Tom and I succumbed to ‘lightweightedness’ a left a bit earlier as the temperature dropped quickly. The sun was still shining on the other three as they grabbed a final Severe on the Main Face. I’m looking forward to climbing with Joe a bit more this year. It pushes my grades and adds a bit of excitment and fun to events.!!!
Martell Slab – VS 4c/E1 5a – Alt Lead Pericles – HVS 5a – Lead
It was nice to be back climbing with Joe again after what has been a fairly long break. Martell Slab provided the stunning entertainment for the day.
Martell Slab is one of those climbs you always promise yourself, but never get around to doing. Probably because Tater Du is not the easiest crag in the world to get access to. It’s also not helped by the exorbitant charges levied at Lamorna Car Park. £7.00!!! £7.00 for gods sake….. The alternative is a longer walk in from Boskenna Cross. Next time this is what I will be doing cos its the last penny I put in their grubby, middle class, money grabbing hands.
Rant over and back to the important stuff. Martell Slab is great technical climbing with some tricky moves and so so gear on the first pitch. Finding the start isnt easy, but trend right of the slab and take the groove before moving out onto the slab proper. The move onto the slab is memorable and the remainder of P1 provides some nice technical climbing.
PI of Martell Slab
Joe was straight onto the E1 direct finish for P2. It keeps going straight up, through the groove. Well protected but strenuous it is pretty steep but classy climbing. The huge nest you pass full of bones and bits of dead things is a little un nerving though. Joe made easy work of this to cap off what was a really good climb.
E1 top pitch of Martell Slab
Meanwhile Dave and Tom were on their way up Crows Nest Ordinary, a route Joe and I did many years back. The top pitch of this one is always a test.
Nico coming onto the steep finishing face of Crows Nest Ordinary
Lichen covered and very steep it is quite daunting as Tom found out. It’s also very photogenic, with Joe and myself providing the audience for Toms epic.
Up there???
I had always wanted to do Pericles, a good looking route on Knights Pillar. It turned out to be harder than it looks, with fiddly gear and small crimpy holds. By time I finished my arms were screaming. I could tell I hadnt been out for a while.
I always enjoy going to Tater Du. It is a beautiful location and great place to climb with your mates. Makes you realise why we all love climbing in Cornwall so much.
The first evening session of 2013 saw us explore a new buttress at Carn Gowla. Indian Buttress is the furthest south of the major Gowla venues, but offers some great climbing.
Finding your bearings is a touch difficult though as we discovered. We abbed in down the obvious V groove in the west face but the descriptions in the guide are not easy to follow. It refers to a sea level ledge but to be fair the main ledge is well above sea level.
Joe on an ominous Touch the Earth
Still once we did establish things the climbs proved worthwhile (at least for me as I am a Gowla apologist unlike my compadre’s). I find the climbing here enthralling. Yes the rock can be suspect (like biscuit or razorblades depending what bit your on) and the pro barely adequate at times; it’s sharp, forbidding and exposed and belays are a nightmare; most climbs involve abbing in and the sea slamming into the cliffs offers a further dimension. For me this adds up to excitement and of all the venues we climb at, Gowla is the most adventurous. Clearly my colleagues dont see it that way as the evening was punctuated with curses and threats to never return.
Plenty of holds but how solid are they?
Touch the Earth is deceptive. From below it is innocuous, but once you step out onto the face it brims with exposure and the holds are positive and solid. The finale is a steep slab where pro becomes less obvious but holds get better. Not sure it is VS; the lack of pro in the upper section may be why this grade is proposed, but Joeand I agreed it is well worth the two stars it gets in the guide.
Swirling seas below Red Cloud
Meanwhile Chris led Red Cloud a severe following an obvious crack to the right of the decent slab. This looked ood but I was advised is very sharp. Tom managed to break a few foot placements so maybe the grade will get harder the more it is climbed. I intend to try this one the next time out.
I now have my eye on some routes on the Sewerage Wall area, but it looks like I may have to rely on Pete for company on my next visit unless I want a mutiny.
Red Wall – Severe 4b – Alt Lead Bishops Rib – E1 5b – Alt Lead Porthgwarra Chimney – Severe 4a – Lead
A welcome return to Chair Ladder was the order of the day. A first for Tom and Dave, and the first time for Joe and me since we tackled South Face Direct.
Of course Chair Ladder at this time of year can be problematic cos of the gulls and fulmars nesting. But as long as you pick the right routes you are OK. Which was why Joe and I went for Red Wall which turned out to be a bird toilet.
Joe using bird poo for holds! It really stinks.
Good climbing is marred by a disgusting stench and holds covered in poo. Our fault really, because we knew the climbs either side were notorious for this. It would be good to come back and try it again in the Autumn maybe.
The red wall. Steep but with good holds
Dave and Tom meanwhile were on Terriers Tooth a must when you first go to Chair Ladder. Not the hardest climb but one which takes some thought both ascending and descending. In fact the descent can be more dramatic than the climb if you get it wrong.
Dramatic climbing on the final pitch of Terriers Tooth. Dave leading.
Dave and Tom were on the top pitch when Joe and I returned so we shot off to have a go on Bishops Rib. This had been a long time ambition for me. I never really had the confidence but on this day I was ready and set off on the delicate first pitch. Small foot placements and crimps need a steady lead. Once at the overhang there is plenty of pro and I moved as fast as I could through it. Luckily it all came together nicely and next minute I was at the belay ledge having completed one of the best pitches I’ve ever done.
Happy Ian after the amazing P1 of Bishops Rib
Joe got P2 which is equally as good and very steep. Tricky moves to a break at an overhang lead into a final crack which has huge holds and huge exposure in equal amounts. For both of us this was a benchmark and a great tick on what is one of Cornwalls classic E1’s. Pat on the back all round then.
The move up to the left leading crack on the brilliant P2 of Bishops Rib
With the tide pushing we moved into the more sheltered Porthgwarra home of a number of good climbs. The hail which accompanied Daves finish to Shawangunk was a highlight as he suffered plenty of banter just as he was taking on the difficult crux of the VS variation. Tom and I got on Porthgwarra Chimney which I think is a sandbag at Severe. But on UKC this doesnt seem to be reflected in the comments. Pro is sparce in the early part of the chimney but it improves although the climbing remains tricky throughout. A really good climb actually, but more towards HS 4b in my opinion.
Dave and Tom with Terriers Tooth behind them
A very tired group headed home with some memorable climbing in their wake.
Joe kicks off on P2 Bishops Rib
The move up to the left leading crack on the brilliant P2 of Bishops Rib
Restaurant with a view
Dave and Tom with Terriers Tooth behind them
Joshua Tree – E2 5c and a project for later in the year
Abseil Gulley
The red wall. Steep but with good holds
Angry Residents
Joe using bird poo for holds! It really stinks.
The final pitch of Red Wall. The white is bird poo.
Dramatic climbing on the final pitch of Terriers Tooth. Dave leading.
Flat Top – HS 4b – Lead Crazy Man Michael – VS 4c – Second Little Brown Jug (Variation Start P1) – HVS/VS 5a? – Lead Thin Wall Special(P2) – E1 5b/5a – Lead Trapeze – HVS 5a – Second
I challenge you to read the title and not hum the tune in your head (or I’m a bit abi normal) I’m sat here looking out the window at drizzle, whereas yesterday at Bosi we were treated to Sunshine and a glorious day.
It was a strange day actually for me. Five climbs in my logbook, but in reality it was three. This was on account of a mix and match approach to our routes. Having walked away from Sinistra which looked more like a waterfall, we started on Flat Top, a really nice HS with some good moves getting past the overhang to the corner.
Me on Flat Top
As it happened overhangs played quite a part on this day. Joe’s lead on pitch two was Crazy Man Michael which starts with a … you’ve guessed it… a overhang. A lot tougher than Flat Top though. You never feel in balance and its strenuous. Having cleared this though the climbing continues up the exposed arete at a much more amenable level. It is well worth doing.
Joe about to set off on the tough opening moves of Crazy Man MichaelJoe high on CMM
Meanwhile the rest of the crew (Tom, Dave, Pete, Chris and Nick who made the long journey down from the wilds of Dartmoor) were on their own routes. Chris and Nick on the by all accounts very good Venusberg and the others on the classic Andrew. A climb I have fond memories of as it was my first multi pitch route with Bart. The step out from the ledge onto the slab is always tense because you never quite feel settled. A good lead from Dave on this one. Venusberg is definitely on my list for next time out.
Pete moving onto the delicate traverse on P2 Andrew
Having taken a closer look at Visions of Johanna, discretion finally got the better part of valour and I opted for a try on Little Brown Jug’s variation start in order to get to P2 of Thin Wall Special. Originally we had planned this for a threesome, but it made sense for Nick and Chris to get on a route instead of hanging around so they went off to do the brilliant Paragon.
LBJ P1
The overhang start (there it is again) seemed OK to me, but the next move is very tin if you continue on a direct line. A bridging move right opens up the good holds higher up and then the climbing is fun right up to the belay ledge of Doorway/Thin Wall Special. Joe kindly deferred this one to me as I had wanted to lead TWS and the top pitch looked wild.
It didnt disappoint. The corner of Doorway is good climbing in its own right and when you get to the roof it seems a bit improbable that it goes at 5a. A move up into the niche gives a chance for a breather and then its stepping out under yet another overhang and aiming for the gap. I found it really scary and although the holds are quite positive you need to shape yourself to get across to the finishing jugs. I just made it but hanging off the final jug dangling 150ft up is amazing.
Joe through the crux on Trapeze
Joe had to go one better by cutting loose with his feet, but his grin gave away how much he enjoyed himself, even if he looked thoroughly knackered.
Dave on Flat Top
Back at the bags with Nick and Chris still on Paragon and Dave leading Flat Top we decided on a last route so Joe had a go on the fierce but short Trapeze. Its all packed into two crux’s, but with the big No 4 Camelot on board Joe could protect the top offwidth crack. I like the route, but I imagine Pete doesnt having given it his best but on this occasion been defeated. I know the feeling well. Another day then.
As usual 7 hours passed like 7 minutes and we were late returning, but it was the culmination of another great adventure on the Cornish Coast and we have many more planned.
Me on Flat Top
Joe about to set off on the tough opening moves of Crazy Man Michael
The crew on the second pitch of Andrew
Joe high on CMM
Pete moving onto the delicate traverse on P2 Andrew
Pete past the crux
Joe pulling the ropes on CMM
Tom on P3 Andrew
LBJ P1
Dave on Flat Top
Joe through the crux on Trapeze
Finishing off Trapeze
Why it never rains on a Friday!
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