Kecsecsa – 6a – Lead (partly dogged) Le Goujon de Plus – 5 – Second Lichen – 6a+ – Second
OK. Lets get this straight. When you go on a climbing trip where you’re burning calories by the trillion you should loose weight not gain it. However, if your continental diet consists mainly of Bread and rich French cheeses then this may not be the case.
Tarascon with Roche Ronde and Calames in the background
Our diet included masses of the said French cheese and lunches were to be savoured with fresh fruit and bread accompanied by Brie, Camenbert, Emmental and a hard cheese that I cant remember but which was lovely.
So having returned to England following the trip it was no suprise to learn that both Chris and Tom had managed to put weight on!!! It must have been a close call though given the amount of sweat and effort we put in over the duration. On this day we returned to Calames as storms were predicted for the afternoon and we wanted somewhere easy to get into. Strange then that we headed for the highest and furthest point away from the car park.
The view from Presse Puree
I had returned to try the 6a bolt on flake route called Kecsecsa. This proved to be my favorite route of the whole trip. Despite twisting my rope around a draw I found this one challenging but OK. A great overhang followed by amazing slab climbing in real exposure. Terrific.
Tom on the tricky Le Goujon de Plus
Chris picked a hard 6a+ to cut his teeth on and despite early setbacks did brilliantly to get through and reach the top. He gave me a bit of catching practice but got through what was a bold section near the start (I never like that as you always think you might deck)
The crux
Toms lead at Le Colon Le Goujon de Plus was a strange one bending around a cave entrance and needing clever footwork. This one is a lot harder than it looks and when Tom found a Krab (he’s been hunting for free be’s) he thought his luck was in. Unfortunately it had been left there because the in situ malion was in bad repair. Better luck next time Tom.
The final overhang on Lichen
The Griffon Vulture had disappeared later in the day to be replaced by ominous thunder clouds which duly did their thing scaring us to death. It’s no fun carying a sack of mettle gear in a lightning storm.
Joe, here’s a roofing job for you!
The day was finished with Pizza in Tarascon at a Restaurant by the river where we watch the strange small dipper type birds dive into the fast flowing water. How they dont drown I dont know. Our cheese fest finally hit an all time high on this day as Chris and I had cheese Pizza and realised we’d OD’d. Maybe it was time to back off, but I doubt it.
Tarascon with Roche Ronde and Calames in the background
Entre Chat – 5 , 5+ -Alt Lead Cotton Club – 5+ – Second Netoyage de Printemps – 5+ – Lead Konslediz – 5+ – Second
This was slightly different from our last visit. Previously rain, this time bright sunshine and very hot. This remarkable outcrop was pretty quiet on this day, but I could image with the convenient parking it could get busy. Possibly the strenuous walk up to the crag might put a few off, that and the dodgy approach – one is polished and scary, the other steep and scary. Take your pick.
Roche Ronde main face
Roche Ronde is fairly vegetated, with detracts slightly from its routes and despite appearances is probably not as steep as some of the crags. But it has its charms, chief of which is the spectacular view down into the valley with the small nestled villages and the sound of church bells echoing up to our terrace. Its a venue to savour and relax at – except of course we were there to climb.
One of many villages nestled in the valley
Another couple were on the routes we had singled out so we started on a two pitcher which turned out to be a bit overgrown. A shame really becasue Entre Chat couldbe a good route but in this condition it is just hard work.
Entre Chat with the impressive Roche Ronde rising up behind
Chris got the best lead of the day on Entre Chat which is probably the pick of the 5’s at Roche Ronde. My lead on Nettoyage was similar as was Konslediz. What we hadnt realise until we started to leave was that there were a number of climbs hidden in the small rvine to the left of the main venue. These actually looked in better condition, but we will have to sve these for another time.
Tom on Konslediz
On our return to Tarascon we made the now regular stop for provisions at the supermarket which included the necessary 6 pack of Ice Creams. You cant get them in less so we pigged out and went for a beer in town. The river was continuing to rise, an indication of the increased snow melt. It made for some reflecting on whether the snow in the high mountains would have cleared quickly. In hindsight though I think we need to be more aware of condition so that our plans more reflect what is possible rather than what we wish we could do. That said, it would take a lot of the adventure and uncertainty out of travelling which for me is a big part of any trip.
A big chunk of limestone!
Tom on Konslediz
Chris sweating on Cotton Club
Roche Ronde main face
Chris on Cotton Club
One of many villages nestled in the valley
Entre Chat with the impressive Roche Ronde rising up behind
Interdit Aux Veoce – 5+ Lead Zebulon – 5+ – Second (Chris Lead) Kecsecsa – 6a – Lead (dnf rain)
Our first day of very iffy weather. We awoke to low cloud and very damp conditions. The condensation in the valley is horendous when the humidity is high as it was on this day. With our never ending optimism in full flow we headed for Roche Ronde.
Now the sun comes out!
From a distance Roche Ronde looks fairly insignificant nestled below the larger venue of Calames. As you draw near though the scale of this face become more apparent. Its a fairly long and tough walk up through the forest on slippery rounded stones. When you find the base of the crag orientation is not obvious. On this visit we went up the central gap which actually is a nasty approach and I rekon you should avoid this route. There is a more hidden approach which is a lot steeper but is a lot safer and not so polished. Keep your eyes open for a tell tale arrow point leftwards into the trees as you traverse below the lower face.
The weather closing in.
Unfortunately our luck ran out this time and steady drizzle KO’d any chance of climbing so we trudged out…. only for the sun to come out and transform the day. If we’d waited an hour we would have been OK.
Packing up in the car park below Roche Ronde
Instead we made our way to Calames and the Presse Puree sector. I kicked off on a tough 5+ called Interdit aux velos. Tucked away in the corner it is innocuous enough, but has a difficult transition from the slab to a rib. A good route to get started on.
Tom on the tricky part of Interdit aux velos, Calames
Chris’s route Zebulon was in the mould of a trad route, with some tough bridging to start with and a bold move around the bulging overlap. I’d had in mind the idea to try a 6a called Kekcecsa. This is unique in that it has a bolted on flake! The route though looked excellent and I was making good progress when a boom of thunder announced the arrival of a thunderstorm. The circling Griffon Vultures had long gone heading for shelter and we were forced to do the same fleeing off the crag with our rucksacks full of iron mongery.
Chris starts on Zebulon
The thought of being caught out on the crag in a lightning storm is frightening. Even the locals get off quickly when a storm approaches.
A hot meal always cheers you up when it rains. Chef Chris at work.
With a changeable weather settling in and an unsettled day behind u,s we had to make a decision on whether we stayed or went for Spain. I think there was only one choice really.
Our kitchen on the campsite.
A hot meal always cheers you up when it rains. Chef Chris at work.
Chris starts on Zebulon
Tom on the tricky part of Interdit aux velos, Calames
Deconfiture au petit dejeuner – 5+ – Second Trajectoire Quartzienne – 5+ – Lead Pic Nic existentiel au bord d’un lit – 5 – Second
Although I didnt realise it when I suggested going to Auzat, it’s a granite crag. Not the same really as our highly crystalline version in Cornwall, but definitely more familiar than the limestone of the previous day.
Le Far from the road
Auzat is a fairly high crag. We could tell because as we passed through the town we saw all the ski hire shops and chalets. The temperature definitely drops with the altitude, but given we were cooked the day before the shade from the trees was welcome. Finding the parking was straight forward but then finding the path into the crag proved tougher. It didnt help that my new cut price french shorts didnt allow me to lift my leg properly resulting in a ballet style pirouette while negotiating a rope gate and a hard fall on my arse. It goes without saying that they were abandoned for climbing…
Chris on Deconfiture au petit dejeuner
Unlike my shorts though the climbing is really good. The granite feels grippy and provided some top routes. Both Chris’ and mine were tough at the grade. Chris’ had a nervy right traverse onto the face right near the top and mine had the same but to the left. Once again the climbing feels thin, with small holds and edges. Great reliance on feet then with a couple of airy moves.
Tom on Trajectoire QuartzienneThe crux
Toms, although graded 5 could have done with a few more bolts. It’s as though the equipers have gone “Its a 5, we’ll only use a couple of bolts. However this belittles the fact that the climbing was quite tough, particularly on the most run out section. Tom did really well leading this. Personally I would have felt happy with a few rocks on my harness to fill in the gaps. The climb has a couple of possible variation finishes. Tom and Chris went left and I went right, but I think the grade is pretty even which ever way you go.
Tom heading for the final tough moves on PNEABDL
We figured that as there were three sectors to Auzat we’d try one with a number of short routes, the upper tier at Montcalm. After a few wrong turns resulting in way too much walking and climbing with packs, we found the correct path. As we approached the Upper Tier it was clear that something had happened. The trees were shattered and the path disappeared into a jumble of stacked boulders and tree trunks. One tree had been split in two and another, about a foot in diameter, was sheared in two.
Tree Blitzkrieg
A massive rock fall had destroyed the route in. Red markers which should have pointed to the crag were now underneath rock which had been spun over and pointed at the sky. It must have been awesome to witness but I’m glad I wasnt there at the time. Probably occurred during the winter as it looked fresh.
All this faffing meant that just as we set up the rain came in putting an end to that particular adventure so we retired back to the campsite for a coffee. Of course by then the weather was back on, with the sun out.
Verdun – Sinsat
Dilletente – 5+ – Second
Gluttens for punishment we made a final sortie to Verdun, a crag high on the east side of Sinsat. Yet again another very beautiful walk in but steep and hard going in the heat.
Our campsite vally from Verdun high on Sinsat
We had time for one route which Chris set off on. This proved to probably be the hardest 5+ we did on the whole trip. The climbing was on small edges to a bulging section. At this point a series of very committing moves would see you through. To be honest, it was as technical as any of the moves I made later in the week. A bit of a sandbag at 5+ I reckon, but good climbing nevertheless.
The line of Dillettente
And so eneded another long tough day of sport routes. I could get used to this…
Les Instantfataux – 5+ – Lead Blues pour un chat noir – 5+ – Lead Les Herbes Amieres – 5+ – Second La Nauc – 6a – Lead (dogged)
We lucked into a quiet campsite in a little village called Aston,; in fact we were the first ‘campers’ of the season which entitled us to a free night and choice of any pitch on the site. Tucked away in a narrow valley it sits next to a fast flowing (very at this time due to snow melt) river, the roar of which keeps you constant company but doesnt detract from a good nights sleep.
Noisy Neighbours
We woke up on our first morning raring to go, so it was into the hired ‘Cashcow’ and off for a morning coffee in Tarascon. This leisurely approach meant we managed to arrive at the crag as the sun started beating down, a lesson quickly learned which we proceeded to ignore for most of our ventures to the crags. We were just not early risers.
Walk in to Calames
The sunny weather by all accounts was unusual for 2013. Up to this point the weather in Ariege had been poor so it seemed a good omen. One of the most notable crags in Ariege is Calames. You can see it clearly from Tarascon and the number of different sectors makes it an obvious choice for an opening venue. Tom, Chris and I are used to some arduous walk ins. Cornwall has plenty of them, but with the heat the walk up through Bedeilhac and across the ridge felt tough.
As is often the case, finding your bearings is difficult, but we rocked up to Sector Le Papy without too many wrong turns. What I like about French Sport crags is that they write the name of the crag on the rock! How cool is that. It didnt seem to help us though as I picked out a three star 5 called Theiere de jardin and proceeded to immediately go off route and climb its neighbour Les Instantfataux which was a 5+.
Chis starts off on Les Instantfataux 5+
This is something to bear in mind. The routes are tightly packed. Unlike the routes we are used to in Cornwall where an obvious line is picked (which could meander around a bit) the limestone routes sometimes just go straight up. Looking for a line is likely to take you off route on many pitches. Just follow the bolts. It makes for some different climbing as it pushes you through territory you might not naturally take on. At the same time it tends to make the climbs more difficult and sometimes a bit weird. By the time I left Ariege I was loving it, but to start with it feels a bit ‘false’.
Chris high on Les Instantfataux
So to the climbing. My first route, Les Instantfataux turned out to be a cracker. Both Chris and I led this one. I soon discovered that many limestone routes are about small crimpy holds and delicate footwork. I needed to trust my feet and work through some of the tricky technical sections. To be honest, on this first day I was struggling to be confident in my footwork, but this soon evapourated as I got a few routes under my belt.
Chris on the headwall of Blues pour un chat noir 5+
‘Blues’ turned out to be significantly harder, making me realise that there are 5+’s and 5+’s. Similar for the most part to LI, the headwall provides some hard technical climbing. It was around this point that I started to realise that my earlier view that 5+ equated to around VS 4c back home was seriously flawed. It seems that a 5+ tends to equate to 5b back home putting it nearer E1 at times, but obviously with bolts.
Tom on the first overhang of Les Herbes Ameres 5+
This of course is where the idea of comparing grades falls down. You can only really compare the technical grade for the most part. While I climb hard on trad routes, I definitely on the whole dont climb as hard as I had to on the sports stuff. This was a refreshing change, although it took me until almost the last day to switch off my trad head (with the little voice saying “dont fall, dont fall”).
Tom on the tricky bulge of Le Nauc 6a
Chris made a good job of the first pitch of Les Herbes Ameres, a tough 5+, before we decided to look at a 6a called Le Nauc. This is all about one sequence through a bulgy section and my head let me down big time. Daft thing is its well protected as the bolt is in exactly the right place (unlike some routes we did later on). Still a valuable lesson learned. Go for it…
The trudge back was made sweater when we stopped off in Tarascon for a Beer at Le Hotel Confort, a residence clearly aimed at the touring biker, but which served up ice cold Leffe beer overlooking the river.
Leffe time in Tarascon. Calames is the smaller outcrop dead center of the picture.
Back at the campsite, we commandeered the barbeque hut for our private kitchen/diner, a luxury we retained for the duration of out stay in Tarascon and had our first helping of Tuna Something. A very tasty dish which hit the spot, but the recepe for which is a closely guarded secret only known to Chris.
Dinner!
Leffe time in Tarascon
Tom on the tricky bulge of Le Nauc 6a
Tom on the first overhang of Les Herbes Ameres 5+
Tom starts off on Les Herbes Ameres
Chris on the headwall of Blues pour un chat noir 5+
Zip – VS 4c – Lead Panos – HS 4b – Second Bandwagon – E1 5b – Lead Midnight Express – E1 5b – Lead (dog)
A brilliant day marred by my nemesis which as usual bit me on the arse.
Sheltered from the wing St Levans Wall was the perfect venue. With a good low tide we had plenty of time to play on the climbs on the lower tier as well.
To start though I had a go at Zip a VS with a tough start. I keep forgetting that VS are not there to warm up on and this one as usual reminded me of that as I struggled up the initial crack to be halted at a slightly bold mantleshelf. I actually enjoyed it though, the same of which can be said for Chris.
Tom on the latter hard moves of Panos
He started on Panos, an HS with a bite. The opening V goove isnt easy but the top move onto the pillar is made spicy if you stay right which seems to take you away from anything useful to pull over on. Tom and Dave intelligently went left which seemed a far more amenable finish. Still, one to get the heart going.
Chris flaking before Bandwagon
Bandwagon looks good from below and it didn’t disappoint. Good delicate climbing which requires good footwork and a steady head through the crux. Just our type of route really and we both loved it.
Chris at the crux on Bandwagon
And so to the finale. What could go wrong after such a good start. Midnight Express beckoned me, and proceeded to teach me a lesson in humility and trash my bank account at the same time as 5 of my Nuts cascaded into the deep water filled trough below. Thats my third attempt. Its got to be fourth time lucky?
The view across to Porthgwarra
Still, it didnt detract from a great day out although it took a little while for the red mist to clear. One to get on again soon methinks.
Songs from a Gentle Man – VS 4c – Lead The Peoples Queen – VS 4c – Lead Dolphin Surprise – HS 4b – Lead Songs from a Broken Heart – VS 4c – Lead The Womb Tomb – Severe – Second
Despite our round about route to The Lizard via St Erth (caused by our usual indecision) this turned out to be a good choice. 2013 is going to be the year of the never ending winter. Lots of sun on this day, but accompanied by a cold North Westerly which we were fortunate to be sheltered from.
Gearing up.
We managed quite a few climbs on this day. With all the routes being single pitch and access very easy we were up and down all day. Dave and I kicked off on a cracker called Songs from a Gentle Man, a route which follows an exposed arete. It looks bold at first but there’s gear where you need it. The rock is fragile in places, but you dont need to haul on it. Use your feet well and it feels secure. I thought it was great, one of the best at this venue.
The arete of Songs from a Gentle Man
Meanwhile Tom was leading the tricky Vumba, which has some good moves in its final section. Dave set off on Peoples Queen, which is hard VS. The difficulties are short lived, but the main groove pushes you out and if you get your shape wrong its tough.
Pete exiting the difficult groove of Peoples Queen.
My attempt on Dolphin Surprise was delayed whilst I tried to work out the opening moves. Considering this was graded HS 4b it was the hardest move I did all day. It’s a real pumpy pull up to the first ledge using a less than perfect hold. Once past this the rest of the climb is straight forward, but its a shock to the system.
The view from the start of Womb Tomb. Tom about to head off.
The four of us left the best till last. The Womb Tomb is brilliant. You get to the start through a narrow gash in the rock which brings you into a dark almost enclosed chimney which widens as it rises. Climb this on surprisingly grippy rock until you break out into the sunrise with a wide bridging move.
The bold move out of the dark chimney.
A bold step across lets you exit onto the seaward side of the pinnacle on the right (facing landwards). A climb that is guaranteed to put a smile on your face.
The view across towards Amnesty Wall.
Gearing up.
Looking out of the gash in Womb Tomb.
The view from the start of Womb Tomb. Tom about to head off.
Prehistoric Cave Paintings!!!
The stepover on Womb Tomb
Shadows
Pete in the gloom
Happy Dave.
Finishing WT.
The bold move out of the dark chimney.
Dave having emerged from the cave of Womb Tomb.
Tom on Songs from a Broken Heart
And Relax!
Pete exiting the difficult groove of Peoples Queen.
Twilight – HS 4b – Second Our Stars, Our Sky – VS 4c – Second
I wasnt sure that I would make this session, as it had been a hectic weekend, but with the sun out and a calm windless evening in prospect, it was too good to resist.
Chris arriving at the ramp after Pitch 1 OSOS
As it happened I arrived at just the right time. Dave had led Twilight and I grabbed a rope and seconded up after him. It’s a good climb too with a good move up into the crack/niche. Just the right antidote to get us all looking for more.
Given the conditions I couldnt help thinking that OSOS would be a good bet. The problem was getting four of us across the traverse was going to take time, but the sun would last.
Chris and Tom checking out the traverse… “what across there!”
After a guarantee of adventure to the others we set off to find the not so obvious abseil. With a good sized swell washing up the runnel, traversing into the base was also exciting. Came within a few inches of catching me out.
Out there…
On this occasion the bottom pitch was a lot drier and was a good climb. The move around the nose requires a bit of thought, but to be honest it’s all about pitch 2 which Dave led. Probably a step up in the whole exposure/technical difficulty area for him but he seemed to breeze through it. There is a runout after the initial start for about 12 ft or so which adds spice, but the pro is so bomber and the drop so steep that it is a safe VS. Having said that its not an easy one and you need to factor in the exposure and feeling of being ‘out there’ the the route radiates.
Relief to have made it before the dark sets in.
Chris and Tom paired up as a second team and followed us across, meaning we finished in the gloom, but with a beautiful sky as the back drop. Not many other places I would rather have been on a day like this.
Even further out there…
Out there…
Is that a touch of nerves?
Chris arriving at the ramp after Pitch 1 OSOS
Relief to have made it before the dark sets in.
Tom tops out on Or Stars Our Sky in the gloom
Chris and Tom checking out the traverse… “what across there!”
The first evening session of 2013 saw us explore a new buttress at Carn Gowla. Indian Buttress is the furthest south of the major Gowla venues, but offers some great climbing.
Finding your bearings is a touch difficult though as we discovered. We abbed in down the obvious V groove in the west face but the descriptions in the guide are not easy to follow. It refers to a sea level ledge but to be fair the main ledge is well above sea level.
Joe on an ominous Touch the Earth
Still once we did establish things the climbs proved worthwhile (at least for me as I am a Gowla apologist unlike my compadre’s). I find the climbing here enthralling. Yes the rock can be suspect (like biscuit or razorblades depending what bit your on) and the pro barely adequate at times; it’s sharp, forbidding and exposed and belays are a nightmare; most climbs involve abbing in and the sea slamming into the cliffs offers a further dimension. For me this adds up to excitement and of all the venues we climb at, Gowla is the most adventurous. Clearly my colleagues dont see it that way as the evening was punctuated with curses and threats to never return.
Plenty of holds but how solid are they?
Touch the Earth is deceptive. From below it is innocuous, but once you step out onto the face it brims with exposure and the holds are positive and solid. The finale is a steep slab where pro becomes less obvious but holds get better. Not sure it is VS; the lack of pro in the upper section may be why this grade is proposed, but Joeand I agreed it is well worth the two stars it gets in the guide.
Swirling seas below Red Cloud
Meanwhile Chris led Red Cloud a severe following an obvious crack to the right of the decent slab. This looked ood but I was advised is very sharp. Tom managed to break a few foot placements so maybe the grade will get harder the more it is climbed. I intend to try this one the next time out.
I now have my eye on some routes on the Sewerage Wall area, but it looks like I may have to rely on Pete for company on my next visit unless I want a mutiny.
Red Wall – Severe 4b – Alt Lead Bishops Rib – E1 5b – Alt Lead Porthgwarra Chimney – Severe 4a – Lead
A welcome return to Chair Ladder was the order of the day. A first for Tom and Dave, and the first time for Joe and me since we tackled South Face Direct.
Of course Chair Ladder at this time of year can be problematic cos of the gulls and fulmars nesting. But as long as you pick the right routes you are OK. Which was why Joe and I went for Red Wall which turned out to be a bird toilet.
Joe using bird poo for holds! It really stinks.
Good climbing is marred by a disgusting stench and holds covered in poo. Our fault really, because we knew the climbs either side were notorious for this. It would be good to come back and try it again in the Autumn maybe.
The red wall. Steep but with good holds
Dave and Tom meanwhile were on Terriers Tooth a must when you first go to Chair Ladder. Not the hardest climb but one which takes some thought both ascending and descending. In fact the descent can be more dramatic than the climb if you get it wrong.
Dramatic climbing on the final pitch of Terriers Tooth. Dave leading.
Dave and Tom were on the top pitch when Joe and I returned so we shot off to have a go on Bishops Rib. This had been a long time ambition for me. I never really had the confidence but on this day I was ready and set off on the delicate first pitch. Small foot placements and crimps need a steady lead. Once at the overhang there is plenty of pro and I moved as fast as I could through it. Luckily it all came together nicely and next minute I was at the belay ledge having completed one of the best pitches I’ve ever done.
Happy Ian after the amazing P1 of Bishops Rib
Joe got P2 which is equally as good and very steep. Tricky moves to a break at an overhang lead into a final crack which has huge holds and huge exposure in equal amounts. For both of us this was a benchmark and a great tick on what is one of Cornwalls classic E1’s. Pat on the back all round then.
The move up to the left leading crack on the brilliant P2 of Bishops Rib
With the tide pushing we moved into the more sheltered Porthgwarra home of a number of good climbs. The hail which accompanied Daves finish to Shawangunk was a highlight as he suffered plenty of banter just as he was taking on the difficult crux of the VS variation. Tom and I got on Porthgwarra Chimney which I think is a sandbag at Severe. But on UKC this doesnt seem to be reflected in the comments. Pro is sparce in the early part of the chimney but it improves although the climbing remains tricky throughout. A really good climb actually, but more towards HS 4b in my opinion.
Dave and Tom with Terriers Tooth behind them
A very tired group headed home with some memorable climbing in their wake.
Joe kicks off on P2 Bishops Rib
The move up to the left leading crack on the brilliant P2 of Bishops Rib
Restaurant with a view
Dave and Tom with Terriers Tooth behind them
Joshua Tree – E2 5c and a project for later in the year
Abseil Gulley
The red wall. Steep but with good holds
Angry Residents
Joe using bird poo for holds! It really stinks.
The final pitch of Red Wall. The white is bird poo.
Dramatic climbing on the final pitch of Terriers Tooth. Dave leading.
Happy Ian after the amazing P1 of Bishops Rib
Why it never rains on a Friday!
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