Ok a bit over dramatic but as has been typical of 2014 the weather was iffy. We spent the day watching dark squalls slowly travelling cross the ocean passing to our left and right, but somehow missing us. Tennyson’s poem seemed apt. How we escaped the rain I dont know but we did and I’m grateful for that.
Moody Bosigran
Pete and I teamed up to have a go at Venusberg while Dave and Tom went off to do Ding. Chris had done Venusberg a while back with Nick and I’d always wanted to try it. Described as one of the more technical VS’s at Bosi it lived up to its reputation. The four pitches have a bit of everything. Pitch one deals out a tough mantleshelf, some abck and fronting up the back of the pinnacle, run out balancy climbing on pitch 3 and a very windy exit on pitch 4.
Happy Pete
I think that Pete may have enjoyed this one more than me judging by the massive grin he ws sporting. A real adventure on a day when we had no right to expect to be able to climb. Lucky us!
A late start meant that Pete and I only had time for one route and Mouseproof proved to be a worthwhile undertaking.
The big Reach
For a Severe it is quite bold. Pro is tricky to find and a couple of the balancy moves require you to gain height before placements become available. I really liked it and enjoyed the exposure of the final moves.
Dave high on Avalanche Direct
Meanwhile Dave, Chris and Tom were on Avalanche having a go at the direct variation. This is an entirely different proposition to the regular route. Much thinner in the top section and much more difficult. Dave could testify to this as he put in some air time during a valiant attempt to clean the final few moves. Pete managed to sail through Avalanche making the top moves look fairly tame. They’re not!
Pete on Avalanche
A short day really, but hopefully just a taster for what is to come.
Pete on Avalanche
Chris on Avalanche Direct
Dave about to start the top moves of Avalanche Direct
Tom and I had intended to try Sensible Shoes at Robins Rocks, but the big swell and damp conditions made the slab shiny and slick. So we retreated with a view to doing Right Angle.
Moody Gurnards Head and the view back towards Carn Gloose
Robins rocks looks a great venue though and one we need to get back to when the conditions are right. Right Angle was wet in places but generally ok. The long traverse in resulted in the usual rope drag. This makes the VS section a bit more tricky as you have to make sure you pull enough slack through to ensure you dont get pulled off.
The long traverse. Plenty of rope drag
I had just enough ‘draws and gear to get through and rig a decidedly dodgy belay. It was safe, but it didnt look safe. The big No 4 Camelot added a bit of re assurance.
Well, its a belay…. of sorts
The big surf made coms haed as well but Tom made a good job of the traverse. Its pretty lonely when you disappear into the niche and lose sight and sound of your belayer as the floor drops away.
The 4b section
The second pitch was as good as usual. Its quite amenable, but there is enough climbing in it and exposure to make it wild and exciting. A quick slip on some wet rock got my heart going and concentrated my mind.
Tom in a dramatic situation.
A pint at the Gurnards Head pub finished what was a classic autumn days climbing. Grey sky’s with the odd patch of stunning pale gold sunlight. Very beautiful and a good way to spend your day.
Tom in a dramatic situation.
Toms starts off on 2nd Pitch
The 4b section
Tom after the tricky niche
Moody Gurnards Head and the view back towards Carn Gloose
No Number – VS 5a – Lead Monday Face – VS 4c – Second Overmarked – HS 4a – Lead Sinners Route – Diff – Solo Juniors Route – Diff – Solo Seniors Route – Diff – Solo
Damp conditions alwyts temper how you approach a days climbing. Despite a favourable forecaste Sennen was slow to dry on this day and as a result we throttled back on our grades.
Are we high enough
Having said that, No Number, my opening route prooved more than a challenge for the conditions. Holds full of water, moist cracks (oooh errr) and unreliable foot placements made it full on. The rising run of flakes is slightly overhanging and therefore fairly strenuous until you reach the base of the upper cracks. Great climbing, but the twin crack finish wasnt on for this day. They were running with water so I detoured onto No Name for a much easier but spectacular finish.
Behind you!
Monday face has all the holds but needs a steady head. Pro is tricky to come by and the strenous positions make it akward to place. Chris enjoyed this one. An ideal route for the conditions. Meanwhile Dave and Tom were on SkrewCrack, which again was probably worth another grade given the conditions. A good lead by Dave who’s consolidating his grades nicely.
Chris on No Number and Dave on Skrewcrack
Overmarked is a weird route. Its basically a couple of moves through an overhang, but is really powerful for a short period. Get your body shape wrong and its a lot more difficult as Chris and I both found.
Dave on Skrewcrack
Unusually for the two of us, Chris and I ended the day with a bit of soloing. Only on the diffs in the Church Window area but it certainly adds a buit of spice to your climbing. What would ordinarily seem simple suddenly becomes a major issue. That said, I think it is good for your climbing as you end up concentrating on just the climbing without all the paraphanalia that normally accompanies leading.
Dolphins! Guaranteed to put a smile on your face.
Very refreshing and the sight of Dolphins just makes you feel good to be alive.
Silent Movie – VS 4c – Lead Quo Vadis – E1 5a -Lead Sirius – HS 4b – Second
After what has seemed to be forever the bright weather came back. Friday turned out to be clear skies and little wind. The south facing Coastguard Cliff provided the perfect warm, sunny venue for Dave, Tom and myself.
Moody Coastguard Cliff’s
Dave and I had had a couple of outings to Hawks Tor in the rain and fog, but on each occasion the weather limited our efforts. This time we could go for it with dry positive rock. I’d done Silent Movie with Chris and remembered how good it was. A committing climb where you need to hunt out pro. But the holds are excellent and the climbing thrilling and exposed.
Dave cruising Silent Movie
Having warmed up it was straight onto Quo Vadis. I figured with the bunch of crocks I was with I’d better pick a jug hauling route rather than a finger stretcher. QV provided this. It has two crux’s. The first is a thuggy haul over an overhang ontothe face. The second is a delicate rising crack which can be tackled in a number of ways.
Tom showing he’s got balls – Quo Vadis
Tom and I laid back and Dave went out onto the face to the crimpier holds. Both ways are great and the climb overall is worth doing. Typical of the venue. Strenuous start followed by face climbing. It also provided one of our best photos of Tom in the crack. Really exciting and reflects everything about the day.
Dave sat on the belay P1 Sirius
Dave wanted to get back into leading and took on both pitches of Sirius. This is also a really cool climb. Exposed with two contrasting pitches. A juggy but exposed traverse, followed by a more technical slab. It was a good lead as the climb is tricky throughout.
Dave leading P2 Sirius
It was a fitting end to a brilliant return to climbing ways. Cornwall as usual delivered on the ‘spectacular beauty’ front. The booming surf added to the atmosphere and provided lots of distraction when you heard a set thunder in sounding like it was going to engulf you. We are so lucky!
Tom P2 Sirius
Dave leading P2 Sirius
Dave sat on the belay P1 Sirius
P1 Sirius
The view towards Kynance Cove
A happy belay ledge
Tom showing he’s got balls – Quo Vadis
Tom about to traverse into the crack Quo Vadis
Dave cruising Silent Movie
Tom after the opening strenuous moves on Silent Movie
Martell Slab – VS 4c/E1 5a – Alt Lead Pericles – HVS 5a – Lead
It was nice to be back climbing with Joe again after what has been a fairly long break. Martell Slab provided the stunning entertainment for the day.
Martell Slab is one of those climbs you always promise yourself, but never get around to doing. Probably because Tater Du is not the easiest crag in the world to get access to. It’s also not helped by the exorbitant charges levied at Lamorna Car Park. £7.00!!! £7.00 for gods sake….. The alternative is a longer walk in from Boskenna Cross. Next time this is what I will be doing cos its the last penny I put in their grubby, middle class, money grabbing hands.
Rant over and back to the important stuff. Martell Slab is great technical climbing with some tricky moves and so so gear on the first pitch. Finding the start isnt easy, but trend right of the slab and take the groove before moving out onto the slab proper. The move onto the slab is memorable and the remainder of P1 provides some nice technical climbing.
PI of Martell Slab
Joe was straight onto the E1 direct finish for P2. It keeps going straight up, through the groove. Well protected but strenuous it is pretty steep but classy climbing. The huge nest you pass full of bones and bits of dead things is a little un nerving though. Joe made easy work of this to cap off what was a really good climb.
E1 top pitch of Martell Slab
Meanwhile Dave and Tom were on their way up Crows Nest Ordinary, a route Joe and I did many years back. The top pitch of this one is always a test.
Nico coming onto the steep finishing face of Crows Nest Ordinary
Lichen covered and very steep it is quite daunting as Tom found out. It’s also very photogenic, with Joe and myself providing the audience for Toms epic.
Up there???
I had always wanted to do Pericles, a good looking route on Knights Pillar. It turned out to be harder than it looks, with fiddly gear and small crimpy holds. By time I finished my arms were screaming. I could tell I hadnt been out for a while.
I always enjoy going to Tater Du. It is a beautiful location and great place to climb with your mates. Makes you realise why we all love climbing in Cornwall so much.
After checking the tides Tom and I had little hesitation in picking out Sharpnose as a destination. With no swell as well, we knew that for the majority of the day Sharpnose would OK. It was also a good excuse to check out a new destination and look at a couple of climbs I had wanted to do for a while.
A glimpse of the middle fin
Both Lunakhod and The Smile get 3 stars in the guide and equally they were two climbs that were realistic for us to attempt.
Lunakhod
Lunakhod soars up the left side of the middle fin, following an easily identifiable line. Its a corner which just keeps on going. From a tricky start you get stuck into the climb proper with a couple more awkward sections following. It’s the last few metres which are the wildest though. The moves up through the overhang come at a point when your starting to feel the strain. Plenty of gear so it is more of a physical struggle than a mentle one. Look down though and you get a real taste of exposure. Tom clearly enjoyed it as much as I did but both of us felt the 42 metres of climbing.
Tom working hard on Lunakhod
The reams of tat at the top provide the abseil point. 5 carabiners and 5 slings are just about adequate given their condition. I let Tom test them out and when they didnt gice way figured it was safe for me to go. Ta Tom!
The ab off
We had seen The Smile from above as we inadvertantly abbed off right above it. From above it looks overhanging although it is more of a bulging. We both found the start tricky, more so for Tom as he’s shorter than me. But once into the left trending groove you are on power all the time with only a few semi rests. It really is a stamina test and by time I arrived at the vertical crack I was feeling the pace.
The line of the traverse on The Smile
This also holds the crux moves so it’s a case of get stuck into it asap and keep on going. I really enjoyed this even though I felt near to the end of my reserves. There is nothing like the feeling you get when you make it to easier ground and the sense of satisfaction. Tom remarked he preferred this route and I can see why. I’d give them both top marks though. Two classics.
The rounded boulders are refreshing after course granite.
Lunch sat above the fins just reminded us once again how lucky we are to live in the West Country. Sharpnose is pretty unique and awe inspiring. I’m sure we will return soon to take a look at some of the E2’s!!!
A glimpse of the middle fin
Stunning Sharpnose
The Smile, second time around!
The line of the traverse on The Smile
The ab off
Chilling at the belay
The difficult final moves of Lunakhod
Tom working hard on Lunakhod
The rounded boulders are refreshing after course granite.
Seadreams – HS 4b – Lead Great Central – Severe 4a – Lead The Shield – E1 5a – Lead
The first time anyone goes to Carn Kenidjack it has the same wow effect on them. A near vertical wall which at first glance looks featureless is an intimidating sight. For four of the team on this day it was their first time and I’m sure it didnt disappoint.
Pete setting off on Seadreams
We started on the Seadreams Cliff thinking we had plenty of tide and that there was little swell. Wrong on both counts I’m afraid. Plenty of swell which kept washing up the ramp below the routes and threatening to engulf our feet. Chris and I went haring off up a route each thinking that we’d only get one in, only to find we had time for a second and had only succeeded in cocking up the rotating leads. Oh well, it turned out well for me which is the important thing. 🙂
A killer belay….. at least it will be when that rock lands on Chris!
Both routes on the Seadreams cliff were good if a bit short in stature. We all got a crack at both pitches. Seadreams is the better of the two, but with a stunning view across to Cape Cornwall both seemed brilliant on this day. The pushing tide was threatening to swamp someone on the ramp. Chris as the last man standing confidently watched a surge miss him on the cliff side without realising that it nearly got him from behind although he was totally oblivious to this.
Chris enjoying Great Central
The it was time for the main event! We down climbed into Kenidjack. Its steep and is intimidating at first, but secure enough if you are confident. As you walk into the amphitheatre you suddenly realise how magnificent the main face is. A shear wall that seems blank at first but is full of holds and cracks.
First view of the main face for the crew.
Chris and Dave set up for Saxon Direct. This is probably my favorite climb of all time. It has everything. It seems unlikely at the grade but as it unfolds you realise there are holds a plenty. Gear can be hard to find unless you think carefully. It’s there, but it takes some finding.
Dave at the horizontal crack before the tough top wall of Saxon Direct
The same could be said for the Shield. The bottom pitch has spaced gear but its good. The climbing is pretty good too and no pushover. Tom and Pete seemed to really enjoy this pitch and we all ended up at a very cosy belay. From here the character of the climb changes. No longer good gear and larger holds. Now it becomes small crimpy holds and foot placements and poor gear for about 10 metres.
A very relieved me after getting through the bold section of P2 The Shield
Once you get to the groove of Thane there is something and you can breathe a sigh of relief. Up to that point the motto is ‘dont fall off’. We all made it though and a very satisfied team collected at the gearing up ‘hole’ to pat each other on the back a recollect at what was an amazing day.
View to Cape Cornwall
Cornwall delivers again with excitement, beauty and in our case, comradery.
Dave on Seadreams
A tired crew return home.
Pete working his way up the technical upper wall.
A very relieved me after getting through the bold section of P2 The Shield
Getting gear out.
Dave at the horizontal crack before the tough top wall of Saxon Direct
Dave setting out onto the main wall on Saxon.
The belay on The Shield
Tom looking good on The Shield.
High on The Shield
Chris working his way up the brilliant Saxon.
Some of the tricky moves at the end of pitch 1 The Shield
The team take on Kenidjack. Chris on Saxon, me on The Shield.
Lift off.
Chris after the tough bouldery start to Saxon
Me contemplating the start of The Shield. Now where have those holds gone?
First view of the main face for the crew.
The awe inspiring Carn Kenidjack
Chris enjoying Great Central
Its behind you Chris!
Stunning spring blooms – and I dont mean Tom and Dave.
Pete topping out on Seadreams
Pete setting off on Seadreams
Tom on Great Central
A killer belay….. at least it will be when that rock lands on Chris!
Tomio – 4 – Second Roxanne – 5+ – Second Dure Limite – 6b – Lead (dgg’d) Chippie – 5+ – Second Grimsel – 6a – Second Bassine – 5+ – Lead La Sabine – 5+ – Second
This was to be a final busy day climbing. We returned to Auzat, a favorite of ours over the trip, but this time to the main sector.
More of Roxanne
I had it in my mind that this would be the day I tried an 6b and so it turned out. After a getting warmed up on a couple of routes we ended up at the base of a fierce looking crack. With my confidence high I set about tackling the first section which went well until the traverse. This stopped me in my tracks and despite trying to force myself through it by shear will power I couldnt get it wired.
Chris rests a bit on Dure Limite
Chris stepped up and made the move that I had struggled on so badly only to come unglued at about 2/3’s height through the shear strenuousness of the route. However he got himself back on and finished the route for a great first 6b for the team.
Tom at the Crux moves of Dure Limite
Tom after initially struggling on the same move as I had, then proceeded to climb the route which left me in a real dilemma. I needed to lead it again… despite being a bit bollox’d. So once again I set off to tackle the crux moves, which laughed at me as I peeled off, level with the second bolt having run out of steam. The fall was exciting to say the least, with me finishing a few feet off the ground and Chris having to work hard to catch me. (Many thanks Chris).
Me after finally getting through the crux
By this time I was seeing red and I’d decided I was going to get this done if it was the last thing I did… which was a possibility if I kept taking falls like that. Reaching the same point as I had previously I moved a few feet higher so I could lock out on a good juggy hold and clip the second bolt to my relief. Yee haaa… at last. Mind you the effort of getting here meant I had little left for the remainder which I unashamedly dogged all the way to the top. Sometimes its the finishing that counts, not the way you do it. Elegant I was not!!!
Tom on Grimsel
The three remaining climbs of the day were all crackers. They are all on the same face and all given loads of stars and quite rightly. Each has its own character but all are challenging. Tom’s final lead on Sabine (probably the best of the three) was a job well done and probably his toughest lead of the trip.
Tom nearing the end of La Sabine
So with everyone absolutely spent we returned to Tarascon for a final Leffe in the beer garden and a chat with two travellers heading for a party in Spain. Cool road trip.
I think we will be back to Ariege next year. There is so much climbing, and the area so beautiful it will be hard to resist. Next time it will be with Dave so that he too can experience the beer and cheese.
Tom nearing the end of La Sabine
La Sabine, probably the best route on this section of cliff.
Le Bon Sens – 6a – Lead Mehare – 5+ Second Pussicat – 6a – Lead Oriane – 6a – Second La Vista – 5+ – Lead
You would think that this trip just consisted of getting up and climbing. On the contrary, we had a number of routines which became part of this extended climbing trip.
The Dining Room
Mornings were not early. We knew they should b,e but we couldnt roust ourselves that well and so a leisurely breakfast and ubiquitous cup of coffee sorted us out for the short but beautiful drive down to Tarascon. Aston is a really sleepy village and nothing seemed worth rushing for when you’re there. A quick stop at the patisserie for Pain aux raisin’s and then off to the crag. On this day we were in for a treat.
View towards Andorra
Baychon is probably my favorite venue in Ariege. Set away from the crowds in an idil valley above a small Hamlet it has a real feeling of remoteness and solitude. Getting there isnt a problem unless you have a Chris with you. Then you have to contend with reversing out of a tiny hamlet which you should never have gone to in the first place. Chris needs to read more than one line at a time. Then the clearly marked ‘DO NOT DRIVE INTO THE HAMLET’ may have been on his mind.
Mountain Village
There is though very good parking just across the road which made things easier and once again we were the only ones at the crag.
The tricky slab of Le Bon Sens
Le Bon Sens is a very cruxy 6a. The climbing is straight forward until you reach the slightly overhanging thin corner crack. You need to tackle this with conviction in order to make the jugs higher up. Once through here there is a technical corner but its all in the one move really. Pussicat was a far better 6a. Much more challenging with a very thin move onto the upper slab where friction is your friend.
Pussicat – not quite.
Chris took on the devious Mehare, which has a step up that took me ages to figure out. It’s completely off balance and at no point did I feel in control. Great fun! Oriane proved to be Chris’ undoing on this day.
Chris on Oriane
Too many long and tiring days probably contributed but Chris came off a couple of times, both at very unexpected points and probably due to a lack of concentration. I think by this time we were all feeling the heat and after one final route called La Vista, which was confusing, we made tracks back for an early supper (after our traditional Leffe at the hotel of course).
The river kept rising cos of the meltwater. Kayakers dream
In the evening we set off on a walk through the woods up the valley. The river produces a wierd effect. The air surrounding it is freezing, but either side it was boiling. Just goes to show how cold the meltwater was. The woods turned out to be a great walk. By time we returned it was pitch black and very spooky.
Spooky Woods
Clearly this trail is an old shepherds trail, with now unused field systems either side. It gives an insight into times long gone in the area. All we needed was Bears and Wolves and strangely enough……………….
Chris on Oriane
The chains on Pussicat
Pussicat – not quite.
The tricky slab of Le Bon Sens
Tom on Le Bon Sens
Chris on Le Bon Sens
View towards Andorra
Mountain Village
An old hill fort near Baychon
Early morning mist before the heat really set in.
Spooky Woods
Cool
The river kept rising cos of the meltwater. Kayakers dream
The Dining Room
Pitch 2 of the camping
Hot and Sunny climbing – you cant beat it.
La Vista
Chris on La Vista
Why it never rains on a Friday!
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