All posts by dillwat

Magic Light

March 22, 2011 dillwat Leave a comment

Magic Light

22nd January 2011

Cuckoo Rock and Coombeshead Tor
Cracked Boulder Traverse V2 5C – dnf

Sometimes days have a special light which makes everything seem that much sharper and more colourful. This was one of those days. Dartmoor demonstrating just how beautiful it can be. The light gave the illusion of warmth, but part of the reason Nick and I were bouldering this day was the cold.

It turned out to be the perfect choice. Coombeshead is an area I have never climbed in and not somewhere I’d even heard of. So to come upon and small outcrop of perfectly positioned boulders was a suprise. The first area we climbed in was slightly removed from the main track to Cuckoo Rock. The view back towards Burrator Resevoir was outstanding though and the bouldering excellent.

Bouldering is not something I’ve done a lot of and when I first attempted a fairly high but exposed face I found it intimidating. It’s strange how your mind plays games with you. What would be a straight forward move when protected by a rope suddenly becomes a major endevour. The first face we climbed on was just like this. However two or three attempts later and my nerves calmed down and I found myself enjoying things more and more.

We worked a number of problems here and then moved on to a larger single boulder. This had a steep sloping face and a wicked arete. With my mind buzzing around protecting my knee for sking I didnt make a particularly full blooded attempt at either. However Nick despatched both in style. A number of other climbers (yes we wer’nt aloneat this point) had a crack at the arete but Nick was the only one to send it on that day. Cap and feather spring to mind!

Our final location was Cuckoo Rock itself. I made a much better fist of attempting the traverse here on Cracked Boulder. With a little more finger strength I think I would have done it. However its one for me to return to and try again. It consists of a series of moves following a horizontal crack. Each is tough, but as an accumulation they gradually wear you down. Really enjoyable though.

Finishing off on the Tor meant we caught the final amazing light on the moor. It turned out to be a good call and I want to return soon.

Climbing

You and who’s arm’ees

September 29, 2010 dillwat Leave a comment

24th September 2010
The Dewerstone

Silken Thread/Imperialist – HVS 5a, 5a – Second
Gideon – E1 5b – Second

The trip up to Devon was not an auspicious start. Numerous traffic jams and road blockages started me thinking that maybe climbing wasnt on today. This was all put firmly behing me once I ‘d met up with Nick and trekked into the Dewerstone. What a beautifull place, especially when the sun shines through exposing the tall buttresses which poke up elusively through the tree tops.

I’d been here before both walking and on a climbing trip with Bart a long time back, and we ended up on a vegetated crag which was entertaining but not a proper route. This was different. I got a chance to view the main face which has a number of cracking climbs on it.

As it happened we started off on Raven Buttress on a tricky HVS. The first pitch is balancy and not well protected at first. The move around the corner is great though, but not designed for taller people. I must have banged my helmet a dozen times on the way around. The second pitch is a steep chimney followed by some grunt work past a overhang and up onto the slab above. A great varied climb which reminded me what arms are for in climbing.

Gideon just built on this. The first pitch is amazing, although it proved a bit too much for me. Lots of mental and physical battles up to the crux. As it says in the book, “He who hesitates is lost”. So I lost! A shame really because I actually made the move to the first juggy hold but ran out of gas with my arms turning to stone. A brief rest and I was back on it. All credit to Nick for a top lead in drizzle no less. I need to improve my stamina if I am serious about getting on E numbers. Still, what an amazing afternoon.

The walk out in the dark capped a great outing and left a satisfying feeling of using up the whole day. Not a minute of wasted daylight. Oh yes, and the new rockfax guide is brilliant. So if you get one, keep it close….

Climbing

Return of the Cruncher

September 15, 2010 dillwat Leave a comment

12th September 2010
Pentire Point

The English Way – HS 4b – Second
Nipped in the Buddha – VS 4c – Lead
Our Stars, Our Sky – VS 4c – Alt Lead P2

This was a day for calendar shots so we took a couple, ensuring the magazine pose was just right. I think I’ll need to stick with the day job though.

Pentire Point in my mind was the playground of ‘grown up’ climbers. People who see E5 as a reasonable grade. So it was great to discover that there is a real mixture of climbing here and some amazing routes. Nick and I ended up doing three great climbs.

Black Zawn is aptly described in its name. It is a place that the sun does not often reach and therefore is a bit forbidding when you first drop down on an abseil. It is also wet in places, mainly due to run off. Having said that there is something magnetic about the climbing there. The two routes we did were both great. The English Way was just a means to climb out at first, but turned out to be worthwhile in its own right. An awkward move at mid height destroys all pretences of elegence and makes your mind work hard.

Nipped in the Buddha was not dry enough in the morning so we considered a couple of options: play around on a top rope on the more difficult climbsor have a go at a route I remembered from somewhere callesd Our Stars, OUR sKY. The latter won out and we lucked into a fantastic route, which provided a great deal of adventure and two good pitches. I led the second pitch which follows a line across the shield face just above the undercut. It’s amazing, one of the best pitches I’ve evr led. Not the hardest, but committing with perfect foot and hand placements where you need them. I had my crunchy moment, as I stepped into a crystalline pocket, but this seems to be a trend with me. Of course my attempts to follow Nicks instructions on communicating with my second went slightly arrae so we sat there like lemons for ten minutes waiting for a signal to move. My fault, but as Nick said, a lesson well learnt.

Still buzzing, I managed to get the lead on Buddha as well. This one is much harder climbing, with some wet areas. To be honest this didnt effect the route and I think I got it as good as you can get it in the dark, dank zawn. Once again, brilliant climbing, pushing me all the way with a tricky crux a few metres above the slab. Its great to have routes where the rock feels really positive and all of them were like this. It can be brittle in places, but take care and you can climb with confidence.

With the sunny day fading we climbed back towards Pentire Farm (just long enough to get another calendar shot). Another new venue for me and somewhere else to add to my long list of places to return to.

Climbing

Mix and Match

September 10, 2010 dillwat Leave a comment

10th September 2010
Carn Boel

Kari – V Diff – Lead

Not happy with having caned our legs last outing, Pete and I decided to march into Carn Boel. Why pick a crag close to the road when you can get away from it all?

Still, it was well worth it. Heavy discussions on Religion and life did not result in the outbreak of hostilities (like it normally does in the world) but helped pass the time as we wandered past the petting zoo. Carn Boel is another exercise in crag finding, although easier than Black Head.

Having found the decent chimneys we made our way to the Terrace ramp only to be faced with trying to work out which route was which. I think in the end we did a Wandering Worlds – Kari – Four Directions combo.

Whatever we did, it seemed harder than V Diff, or else Kari is hard. We ended up doing four pitches but it probably should have been five as we solo’d out the top section. There are lots of holds and foot placements throughout, but pro can be hard to place and particularly on the last narrow sloping ramp there is a committing move which draws you out left forcing you off balance and requiring a bit of boldness. The ramp is steep and slopes away from the cliff making the whole exercise awkward as it says in the guide. As a V Diff leader I would be surprised to be faced with a pitch like this, but alternatively I could be making too much of it.

Pete and I were pleased at how entertaining the whole climb was. Each pitch different technically (the overhang on P3 requires a bit of brute force), whereas the bottom crack is fingery and more balanced. Lots of lichen and vegetation in places, but nothing you cant get around. Altogether another fantastic evening on Cornish granite. Beats being at work!

Pics to follow

Climbing

How far?

September 10, 2010 dillwat Leave a comment

5th August 2010
Black Head

White Russians – VS 4c – Lead

It is noticeable that walking in to a crag always seems easier and quicker than walking out. Black Head is a good 30 – 40 mins from the car park and gives your legs something to think about by time you get there. Couple that with our zig zagging down the bouldery slope to get to the climb and we were well warmed up to say the least.

I found it quite tricky locating the main face, despite my previous visit and Pete and I found a less than direct route to the foot of the crag. This then leaves you with another awkward drop down to a belay stance below White Russians.

We left a short ab rope in situ which we also used to anchor Pete into as part of his belay. If the swell had been bigger the gulley he was in would not have been the place to be!

White Russians is a brilliant climb. Not hard technically, but committing with a sting in the tail. Its the sting that makes it really forcing you out and upwards in an exposed position. What I would say is watch out for loose rocks particularly on the left face of the top arete. There are some football sized lumps just begging to be released. The sea on this evening looked magnificent, turquoise in places studded with rocks and islets. While sat soaking in the spectacle from the belay ledge, Pete found an ankle strap from a racing pidgeon. Turns out it was on its way to Ireland but the fact it was on the ledge next to a pile of feathers suggests it met up with something significantly bigger and more hungry.

As I pointed out at the beginning, the walk back seemed to take forever, but the lights of Coverack were welcoming as we eventually staggered into the pub car park. Amazing evenings climbing, but I was knackered. I think age is gradually catching up.

Climbing

On the not often beaten track

September 10, 2010 dillwat 2 Comments

28th July 2010
Rosemergy Towers

Finger Winch – VS 5a – Lead
Flash Back – Severe 4a – Lead
East Tower Arete – Diff – Lead

Considering its proximity to the coast road, Rosemergy Towers gives you a sense of being in the wilderness. Within minutes of dropping down the track to the Coast Path you feel remote and from the state of the access trail it is a not often climbed venue.

For me and Pete it was our first venture to this area. Viewing the crag from across the valley, we were not aware of the variety of climbing that was going to be available. Once down at the crag it gradually reveals its secrets as you skirt the southern face.

We picked a severe to start on and it proved to be a challenge at the grade. Pleanty of pro except on the crux crack, high on the climb. This proved tricky, but added a level of excitment I was not prepared for. Saying that, it woke me up and prepared me for Finger Winch and different proposition entirely.

I enjoyed this climb, even if it did force an early retreat for me to gather my strength and go go again. Its name does what it says. Small but positive holds enable you to pull up into a series of rounded buttresses. Very rewarding. We finished up the Arete due to dwindling levels of energy and tiredness and made our way to the tea rooms. I can recommend these to all, especially if you catch them like us in the sun and evening warmth.

We’ll go back to the Towers. There is an HVS and E1 which I would like to have a crack at.

Climbing

Feathered Friends

July 13, 2010 dillwat Leave a comment

11th July 2010 Carn Kenidjack

Saxon (Original) – HVS 4c, 4c – Alt Lead P1
RockDancer – E1 5b – Second

After our previous attempt (Nick and I ) to climb at Kenidjack which ended in a thorough drenching we were hoping for more favourable weather. We had cancelled our arrangements for both Friday and Saturday because of the weather report so this was our last chance and things turned out well.

We had targeted three climbs. In the end Thane turned out to be a bit ambitious in the time (especially given my turn of speed) and an attempt at Gneiss Gnome ended in retreat when I found fledglings on a ledge part way up. So it was straight into Saxon and what a climb!

A strenuous start sees you pull up onto a long sloping ramp. The guides are a bit all over the place here in terms of route finding. One says to go to keep going almost to the end of the sloping ramp/crack. The opther suggests tackling the smooth large niche directly. The latter is bold with little gear and does not seem right and the first avoids the main face which is at the heart of Saxon.

So instead I went just to the left of the niche and followed a logical line from there. Great holds and foot placements and adequate gear takes you up the exposed face. Its brilliant fun and once my nerves were settled I loved it. The traverse is straight forward but exhillerating and to cap it I made a hash of the belay in my excitement. Safe, but not making best use of the large block.

Nick finished the top pitch off leaving me to untangle myself. The move off the belay is tricky and you have to move a few metres before gear becomes available, but it caps Saxon off in a suitable way. For me, this is one of the best climbs I’ve done and I want to do it again!

Climb two was equally as good. Bold in places needing a lot of work to find good gear. Again a strenuous start and for half the climb the holds kepp coming. Then you pass a central horizontl crack and the climb ramps everything up a notch. From here on you have to work hard, culminating in a fantastic move up onto a thin ledge (the crux for me). Find the hidden holds……

An excellent lead from Nick who as usual climbed with style. For me… I was left feeling really satisfied with the route which challenged me and pushed me into moves I dont often have to make when on my usual VS’s. A great confidence booster making me want more.

The weather held off and Kenidjack provided its usual spectacular scenery from our lunch spot.

Cornwall just keeps providing. Role on next week.

Climbing

Staring into the void

July 3, 2010 dillwat Leave a comment

2nd July 2010
Zennor Cliff – Upper Cliff

The Royal Forrester – VS 4c – Lead
Sheep Crook, Black Dog – VS 4c – Second

In keeping with this years attemp to visit some of the less well known crags, we headed for Zennor. This is somewhere I’ve been to often, but only when walking, never climbing. You cant see the crags from the path, so as we descended through vegetation made lush by the recent sun and rain we were suprised to come face to face with a lovely 30m high wall.

The upper cliff is split by a destinctive chimney (1923 Route), but there are plenty of obvious lines up the lichenous face. Fortunately, the rock comes through where it counts and the lichen did not prove to be a problem on the two climbs we selected.

However the main shock was the precipitous drop on the seaward side of the lawn we were sat on. It appeared as is often the case that the cliff sloped away, but take a step near the edge and it is straight down for a few hundred feet. – something that inspired an immediate attack of vertigo in both of us.

The Royal Forrester was a great climb. A tough V groove leads up to a niche below an overhang. This is taken on the right and calls for a step into lots of exposure and a committing move up. Find the ‘thank god hold’ and you’re away. You then follow a crack upwards and around a flake. Very enjoyable and feels higher because of the height of the base of the crag. Pro is good, but much to Chris’ annoyance it ‘sinks’ and is hard to retrieve for the second.

However Chris got his revenge on Sheep Crook, Black Dog, a steep VS with a real sting in the crux move. Not as high as The Royal Forrester, it packs a lot into a small section. The moves up to the base of the crack put you in all kinds of shapes and Chris did well protecting the crux. It’s there but you need to think about it.

Chris spent a while summoning the courage to go for the pull up into the crack ( I rekon its a 5a move) but once he went he made a good job of it, even if he did look like he might run out of steam at one point. All credit he hung on and once past the crux it eases and pro becomes easier to find.

All in all though these were two great climbs, worth stars for different reasons. Having grunted our way up the two VS’s we decided we’d had enough fun for the day and took and early bath. However there are a couple more routes on the crack we will return to tackle.

Climbing

You cant climb without ropes

July 3, 2010 dillwat Leave a comment

23rd June 2010
Trewavas Main Crag – West Face

Bending Chimney – V Diff – Lead
Cornel – HS 4b – Lead

This was the first of what will hopefully be many evening sessions at Trewavas. With the amazing weather we’ve had recently the crags are bone dry and in great condition…. in fact it’s better when they’ve cooled down a bit.

As this was Pete’s first experience with double ropes, we started on a classic V Diff. Bending Chimney is the most prominent feature of Trewavas. You can see it from the coast path as you walk in and it is striking. its also great fun to climb. The bottom section is straight forward with a tricky move across to the bottom of the final chimney. But its the main chimnet that is best, squeezing up and emerging through a slit in the slab above.

We had set up an abseil to make things quicker for descending and after showing Pete how to use a prusic and watching him test it fully by releasing all control (which nearly took both of us over the edge – we were tied in so we wouldnt have gone far) we dropped down to start climbing. However….. without ropes its hard, so I had to walk back up and fetch them.

Cornel is a bit harder and hard to protect in the top section without a big CAM. Mine was just big enough, although a backup of a chock helps. Remember your seconder needs small hands to retrieve it though as it sits back very deeply in the crack. The climbing though is good, some bridging and an akward mantelshelf to finish with.

All in all though a good session. Next week we’ll try the East face and some of the slightly longer routes.

Climbing

Not always in Harmony.

May 26, 2010 dillwat Leave a comment

Treen
21st – 23rd May 2010

St Loy
Harmony – HVS 5b – Lead (Dnf)
Monochrome Men – E1 5b – Belay

St Levans Wall
Phenocryst – HVS 5a – Lead
Gentlemans Relish – Severe 4a – Second
The Scorpion – E1 5b (provisional) – Second

The decision to camp at Treen on this weekend could not have been a better one. Probably the best weather of the year and perfect conditions for climbing and camping. Joe, Nick, Kath and I met up in the evening and after setting up spent a relaxing evening down at the The Logan Rock Inn.

It was probably here that Joe and I made a questionable decision to climb at St Loy the following day. Probably the hotest crag in Cornwall on the hotest day of the year so far. We should have foreseen a few problems.

Saturday

Still, its a great venue and we had two climbs in mind (Harmony and Monochrome Men). The former was mine to lead and wasting no time I set off up the first corner/niche before the sun came around onto the face. Well, Harmony proved to be a bit much for me in the end… an opening difficult corner leading into an even harder one. It was the second that stopped me in my tracks. I was just not strong enough or lacked the technique. On reflection I have considered a different approach which I will try next time which will hopefully be shortly.

So then it was on to Monochrome Men, an E1 with a strenuous start. Joe made good work of the opening moves, moving up onto the slab with relative ease. MM is fairly well protected, but Joe’s decision to stay left meant he eventually ran out of holds and pro only a metre or so from the top. Two falls later and well pumped Joe retired to give it a go another time. Meanwhile, I was wilting in the sun and after an brief foray up to the starting ledge I decided discretion was the better part of valour. That and the fact I was kna…d.

So a frustrating day, one which knocked my confidence a bit and made me a tadge grumpy. A BBQ on Pendvounder Beach with our gang and LECC cheered me and Joe up. Stunning views and a sense of isolation make this a perfect spot to end the day with lots of new food to try courtesy of Nick and Kath. I will have to be more inventive when we have BBQ’s.

Sunday

A chance to explore St Levans Wall area or Pedn-men-an-mere. Parking up in the church car park down a quiet lane (with a lovely lady security guard making sure we were all honest) we made our way down to the wall via a series of grasy steps and boulders.

The wall is very impressive with a series of crack running up and across, all of which looked difficult. The E1, Midnight Express, looked unlikely at the grade, but at a later point we were assured its OK. Having just missed Redfish because of the tide, I went for Phenocryst, described as ‘cheese grater granite’. I soon found out why with the rock being crumbly and not giving me the feeling of maximum reliability.

Still, I enjoyed the climbing and reached the top virtually on empty, but very happy with myself. With my breath back I belayed Joe up, who in keeping with his exploits on this weekend snapped a hold and fell off. He was not happy. Nick joined us at the top making me wonder what all the fuss was about… how come I make it look so difficult?

Instead of dropping back down we moved off to the Marconi Slab area and Nick tackled a Severe which led us nicely onto the middle tier. The rock in the Marconi Slab area (lower tier) is not brilliant, but it improves as you move towards the centre recessed cliffs. We found a number of lines here, but finally settled on twin cracks on the headwall of a descent slope. Both Joe and Nick had spotted these and Joe, determined to redeem himself led them.

Later we decided they were around E1 5b, but were not named in the guide. We named it The Scorpion (it may well already have a name) because the climb, which is strenuous from the off leads you to believe that having nailed the final large black chicken head its over. Oh no… the sting in the tail is the final move which is hard, as Joe found out and took his fourth fall of the weekend. Nick took over the lead and finished the route, acknowledging the final tricky move. We’re not sure what the route is, but as Nick remarked just seeing a climb and getting on it is climbing at its purist.

We packed up in pristine weather, with views over Hella Point and the Seagul’s feeling relieved that we were leaving their nesting grounds, walking back to the car park and stopping at the Logan Rock for a beer and a bit of reflection on the weekends events.

For me it was mixed, for Nick his highlight had been Boysens Groove a tough E2 at Cribbar Head and for Joe it had been a weekend of pushing his grades, culminating in a few falls. At least it is a sign of progression that we are tackling climbs of these grades and stature.

Rest of the photos here

The Magik Rock

All posts by dillwat

Magic Light

You and who’s arm’ees

Return of the Cruncher

Mix and Match

How far?

On the not often beaten track

Feathered Friends

Staring into the void

You cant climb without ropes

Not always in Harmony.

Why it never rains on a Friday!