Tag Archives: 4b

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Seal Dogging

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8th February 2013

Carn Barra (Carn Barra)

Super Crack – VS 4c – Lead
Angel City – Severe 4b – Lead

It had been a few weeks since our little band of climbers had been out on the cliffs so to say we were a bit excitable was an understatement. Choice of venue came down to getting out of the northerly wind and the midday high tide – Carn Barra fitted the bill and the Upper Tier was an area we hadnt yet explored. Turned out to be a good decision.

The Cornish Sea Cliffs are just starting to come alive with spring. Lots of new green shoots, a bye product of all this rain. Even the Seals were getting amorous in the surf below us.

The Upper Tier at Carn Barra is reminiscent of Bosi. Perched above the main area it doesnt take long before ou get a real sense of height and exposure. Its a bit gritty, probably from lack of climbers and you have to be wary of brittle holds in places, but on the whole its top stuff.

Dave sets the belay scene.

Tom and Chris were the first to do battle. Tom on the excellent Chicken Head Crack, a V Diff which travels up to the right of Great Central Chimney and Chris on Super Crack, the aptly named route to the left of GCC.

Super Crack was a real surprise. The first pitch looked a bit disjointed but turned out to be really tricky. Fingery wall climbing becomes a groove/crack which is difficult to get established in. Some testing moves here leads to a ledge below the start of the second pitch.

Pete entering the tricky groove/crack on pitch one of Super Crack

From here you get a grandstand view of the top crack which is as good as it looks. I found it tough, but with a two month layoff  this shouldnt have been unexpected. Really sustained and exposed. It’s just brilliant. Pete found it a good early season test as well, a proper bicep buster, especially negotiating the early overhang.

Tom and Dave made short work of their route, a statement of intent for the rest of the year I think with both of them leading confidently. Thats why they went looking for something a bit more challenging and ended up on Taurus the Second. Despite snapping holds and a run out at the top of the tower, they both seemed to enjoy this one. One I now have marked down for the future.

Tom at the top of Chicken Head Crack

Chris, Pete and I randomly chose Angel City, mainly cos we were a bit cold. Turned out to be the right choice. I led the first pitch in what was a reversal of SC. The first pitch would be very bold for a Severe if led as per the guide. There is a dirty crack on the left but more importantly the face is fingery and difficult. I used the corner to balance things out and it felt more reasonable.

Pitch two was the main event though. The huge Sharks Fin of rock dominates the face, but the route actually follows the crack leading right up the wall. However its hard to ignore the lump of rock when you’re on the route as its so tempting to climb. As a belayer its hard to ignore the fact you are stood underneath a mass of rock that has no right to still be attached to the cliff. It looks completely undercut and precarious. So Pete and I moved the belay around the corner like the cowards we are. At least Chris would be on top of the block if it came off.

Chris testing out the fin on Angel City

As the sun set we wandered away feeling pleased with ourselves. A good start to 2013 and the discovery of a venue we’ll be back at shortly.

Climbing

One does not simply……

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7th December 2012

Dewerstone Woods

Armada – HS 4b – Lead
Raven Face – V Diff – Second

Another damp outing to Dewerstone brought rewards which seemed unlikely on the drive in. The 25-30 mph winds were the main reason for picking the shelter of the woods and this proved a good call as we spent the day watching the clouds scud over the top of the valley.

The damp woods

It was a bit wetter than last time and the fact Id once again forgotten my climbing shoes meant choosing a climb took a bit of thought. In the end Tom and I opted for Armada, a HS which boasted a tough top chimney. I needed to practice chimneys and big boots meant it was a good opportunity.

Dave checking out P2 of Fly on the Wall

Dave and Chris set up for Fly on the Wall. By all accounts Dave found this one a proper challenge due to the quality of pro. As I remembered it the pro was OK, but the loose rock gives the impression of instability which messes with your mind.

or does one?

Not that my mental state was much better. I hate chimneys! and they hate me. So it was time to sort things out and Armada was my candidate to do battle with. The crux of Armada actually turned out to be on the first pitch with a committing move past a bulge. The sopping wet rock didnt help, especially as the key hold was dripping. Still, it made it exciting.

Ian just before the crux of Armada

The chimney proved to be less difficult, but required a complete absence of elegance in its negotiation. I used all parts of my body to thrutch up the narrow gap and bizarly actually enjoyed myself in doing so. I think with rock shoes and a bit of dry it would be a lot easier proposition, but beggars cant be choosers.

The narrow top crack of Armada

We all met up above FOTW and Dave led the V Diff Raven Face. A tricky rock over onto a slab is the main feature of this climb. Quite difficult for a V Diff imo, but after our expoits on the previous climbs it seemed OK.

Dave leading Raven Face

We managed to catch Tom before he could throw himself off the top of the crag, so it ended well. A casual stroll out through the now quiet and stunning woods capped a great day out and there was just enough time for everyone to take the piss out of me a little more for leaving my climbing shoes behind… again!

Climbing

Enter the real fishermen

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23rd November 2012

Cribba Head

Unlike Siobhan – HVS 4c – Lead
Kernyk – HS 4b – Second
Boysens Cracks – E2 5c – Lead (dnf)

Talk  about the lull between storms. This was like climbing in the eye of the storm. Thursday was torrential, with full on gales and Saturday was a never ending downpour. Friday. Well Friday was dry and sunny as most Fridays have been this year. Its been very strange.

The highlight of the day was the pod of porpoise which roamed off the point and into the bay between Cribba Head and Logan Rock. The poor fisherman down below us didnt stand a chance. These critters really know how to catch fish and watching them ‘porpoise’ was wonderful.

Unlike Siobhan – The areteon the right of the chimney

In between this we got some top climbing in. I started on Unilke Siobhan an HVS which follows a set of overlaps up the arete on the left of the main face. Surprisingly I found this really enjoyable. I had to rely on the incredible grippy nature of the granite at Cribba (its very crystalline) as the route requires lots of smearing. Placing gear is tricky too, but its all there. Mind a fall into the gap might result in a few grazes.

OK. Now which way

Dave then got the chance to lead Kernyk. I remember from my own experience that its much harder than it first appears, especially in its upper reaches. Dave managed to contort himself into all the usual shapes the climb dictates, but as has been his forte over the past few months he climbed it in a contrlled and steady way.

Tom high on Kernyk

I dont think it will be long before he moves onto VS’s

Boysens Cracks

We finished on Boysens Cracks. I know I can lead this route, so why I f*#$k*d up so badly is beyond me. It was the crux move that undid me; I just didnt go for it and paid the price. I dont know why,. Pro’s good but my stamina was abit lacking. I’ll be back to do this and a number of the harder routes I’ve failed on recently. Time to get strong….

Gives an idea of how much Boysens Cracks leans out

Tom made a good fist of it making it to the top crack before tying his hands up in knots. A good route for a top rope and getting those fingers working.

Climbing

Just the one Magpie

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16th November 2012

The Dewerstone

Fly on the Wall – HS 4b – Lead
Needle Arete – V Diff – Second

Toms firm belief that he would could to a bad end on his lead was founded in the good old Magpie superstition. Not that I’m immune from it;  I too wave/salute Magpie’s when I see them, but Tom extended this a bit further than I normally do.

For all the fact a single Magpie signifies bad luck, it confined itself to our drive home where we ended up stuck in two road blockages due to accidents which made for a late day. The day itself was great, with The Dewerstone glowing gold in its autumn colours and the upper buttresses drying quickly making for good climbing.

View across to Fly on the Wall P2

I hadnt even heard of Fly on the Wall, but as we arrived at Raven Buttress it seemed the obvious route to pick. The first pitch is fine with a straight forward crack to negotiate, but for me its the second pitch which makes the route. Exposed with positive holds and reasonable pro it traverses under an overhang to a pumpy pull up into a finishing groove. Great fun!

Pitch 1 Needle Arete

Then it was Tom’s turn with all his superstitious baggage in tow. Needle Arete is a superb V Diff. We started on pitch two because of the damp, but this culminates in a strenuous pull up through a niche  to a tree belay.

Damn Magpies!!

The next pitch initially looks unlikely at the grade. A right to left rising crack cuts across a steep and quite blank looking wall. For Tom this was the crux. However with good pro in, he cruised to the arete and the exposed finishing moves. Tom 1 – Magpie 0.

Tom completes the exposed top move on Needle Arete

As Fridays seem to be the best day for weather  in 2012 we shouldnt have been suprised it held off right up to the point we left. Strange that. For such a wet year, Friday has proved as reliable as a clock for turning out dry. Lets hope it continues.

Climbing

One for the eternal optimists

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26th October 2012

Porthguarnon Cove

Moaning Minnie – V Diff – Lead
Strake – HS 4b – Top Rope
Coiled Stick – HVS 5a – Lead
Eternitys Few – VS 5a – Second

Stood on the gearing up platform shortly after our arrival it was hard to imagine we would be doing anything but heading for the Logan Rock Inn for a pint. Contrary to the forecast, there was drizzle and it was fairly persistant.

The traverse in.

I’ve never been one for giving up and so we decided to make our way over to the base of the lower tier climbs. This is a good warm up in its own right and in the wet with a bit of swell added, there was a bit of spice in the traverse.

Ian starts out on Moaning Minnie.

Erring on the side of caution Dave and I picked a Diff and V Diff respectively. Strangely, by time we got to the top the rain had stopped and the granite was drying fast. The rain didnt detract from Moaning Minnies qualities. Its a V Diff with good variety and it has a sting in the middle in the form of a narrow, skewed ramp. Climbing this with style is a major challenge as everything slopes the wrong way…. tricky.

Joe 'discovering' the narrow off balance ramp on Moaning Minnie

Dave meanwhile was making his way up Kellys Eye, the distinctive channel which bisects the main climbing area. So we all met at the middle tier platform. This gave Tom, Chris, Joe and Dave a chance to worm their way up Sloe Slab, the very different route with a crawl to finish. Having already done this I top rope Strake. I almost wish I hadnt. Its a bit grim, very overgrown and dirty. Without all the muck it might be a good route, but in this condition its best avoided.

The difficult start to Sloe Slab

Now Coiled Stick is very different. It has its moments with regard to dirt and moss, particularly on the middle crack, but overall its a great route. I cant deny that the middle section spooked me a bit. The pro would probably have been OK if the crack wasnt full of soil and weeds. Trying my best not to just rip everything out, I managed to eke out a few poor placements, but at no time did I think ‘That’s a bomber’. But the climbing is not hard at this point, just balancey.

The tricky middle crack

The top crack is a different proposition. Here the pro is good but the climbing much tougher as power starts to come into play. The damp conditions didnt help, but to be fair it was more a case of pushing on and getting established in the crack. Once I’d done this things became more manageable. Really pleased I did this one.

Ian on the tough top crack of Coiled Stick

Meanwhile Chris was on Porcupine. Given VS it is soft at the grade, but this doesnt detract from the quality of the climb. A great route which Dave and Tom thoroughly enjoyed as well.

Chris on the top section of Porcupine

We had time for another route (just) so Dave set off on the brilliant Iron Bells while Joe tackled the hard start on Eternitys Few. I knew Dave was in for a treat, but Joe’s route turned out to be good as well. The crux is a bold move about 6-7 metres up, probably why it is given 5a. It takes some working out and the slippy moss doesnt inspire you with confidence. A good lead by Joe.

Dave on Iron Bells.

Having to make our way back to the gearing up ledge, we ended up scattering across the crag. probably not a good idea as I spied Dave inching his way up what looked like hard territory. Joe needed a bit of help by Dave and Tom as he got stuck half way up a chimney. Maybe next time we’ll stick together. Chris and I traversed back on the lower slabs, back roping a dodgey wet decent crack and following the traverse back. main thing is we all arrived back safe just as we lost the light and trudged back to Penberth.

If you’d said the day would turn out this well at the start I wouldnt have believed you. Another stolen moment on Cornish granite.

Climbing

Three Tiers for Porthguarnon

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4th October 2012

Porthguarnon

Iron Bells – HS 4b – Lead
Sloe Slab – V Diff – Lead
Porcupine – VS 4c – Lead

Parking is a bit of a problem here although on this day we were lucky enough to be able to park on the campsite. Otherwise its a short walk from Penberth. I doubt that there is a lot in it really.

Our gearing up ledge after a thorny arrival

 

Pete and I rolled up not really knowing what to expect. I know that when you look at the crag it seems broken and disjointed, but after a couple of attempts we successfully managed to access the base of the cliffs via a very thorny and overgrown path. The next task was to get across to the main climbing area which is done by a series of traverses, a couple of which are quite airy, so you may want to rope up.

The bottom of Iron Bells

We started on Iron Bells, a climb very reminiscent of Anvil Chorus’s second pitch. In fact the crack is thinner, but its not as steep. However it’s a great pitch and loads of fun, especially the overhang which is taken directly on really positive holds. The granite feels grippy, probably a reflection of how little climbing this venue has seen over the years.

Eying up the squeeze on Sloe Slab

Pete and I were then faced with the next problem.To get back down to the lower tier involved some serious jungle bashing which we didnt fancy, so instead we decided to just keep going up. A great choice in fact as Sloe Slab turned out to be loads of fun. One for the rest of the group to have a go at and see if anyone can make the exit through the gap look elegant. Me and Pete failed big time.

Pete demonstrates the slug move

With the weather taking a turn for the worse (the sun had now disappeared and we were frozen) we launched for the top. Some poor route reading by me meant we did a sort of mixed route part of which at least was Porcupine, a VS. I had intended to tackle to enticing thin crack on the left of the upper slab, which would have been HVS but cold hands and impending hypothermia made me decide to just get up there as fast as I could.

Pete on the upper tier (Porcupine?)

 

So all in all a great venue. Each tier has a number of options all in the V Diff to HVS range and it should be a good return next week when we come back mob handed with a stay on Trevervan camp site thrown in.

 

Climbing

Was it left at the crack, second right at the groove and straight past the ledge???

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21st September 2012

Bosigran

The Armchair – HVS 5a – Lead
Doorpost – HS 4b – Second

Pete, bless his cotton socks , had to be on his toe’s as I took to the air on Armchair. A silly mistake really. I missed the wet patch on what is a fairly polished route anyway. The result was unexpected flight time.

Ian on The Armchair

The start of Armchair is a real mental exercise. Ten years ago maybe the edges were a bit sharper and positive, but on this day everything seemed rounded and smooth. As it happened I negotiated the harder stuff and then fell off once things eased off. This though doesnt detract from the fact The Armchair is a top climb. It just  get better and better the higher you go. Lots of tough exposed moves up the ramp add up to an exhilerating experience. One of my favorites.

Chris on the crux of P1 Paragon

Chris and Joe meanwhile tackled Zig Zag and Dave and Tom Doorpost. Because Pete and I took a little longer ( I had to strip some gear) by time we had finished lunch Chris and Joe has started off on Paragon. Shame they didnt take the guidebook, because they got lost on pitch three, missing the offwidth and ending up on Nameless. A lesson learned really in making sure a guide book is to hand on multi pitch routes. Still it means Chris and Joe have a target for the next time they go to Bosi.

Tom leading P1 Doorpost

I finished on Doorpost with Tom and Dave. Tom got his first experience of a Hard Severe on the lead. The big difference for him was placing gear on what is a tough traverse. Not sure Bosi had even heard of some of the language he used but Tom got there in the end for his first HS tick. Dave set off on P2. His confidence is brimming at the moment and it showed as he negotiated the crux move through the twin cracks on what must be one of the most exposed sections of bosi. Doorpost is remarkable in the exposure it delivers at the grade. Lots of adrenaline then.

The view down P2 Doorpost

So next time back at Bosi its going to be a full ascent of Paragon. Bring it on!

Climbing

I broke Stanage!

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17th September 2012

Stanage Popular

Right Hand Trinity – Severe 4b – Lead
April Crack – HS 4b – Lead
Hargreaves Original Route – VS 4c – Lead

I’d never been to Stanage. I’d read lots about it, but didnt really know what to expect. That and the almost religous way people talk about grit made it all the more anticipated.

The view out from Stanage

Finding the campsite proved to be a challenge. After my third circuit of Hathersage and the surrounding area I stumbled across it, but the wait was worth it as its a beautiful place nestled in the woods and a sheltered valley. At £7 a night its a bargain.

Barty's lonely tent at North Lees campsite

Greated by rain the signs were a bit ominous for the following day so Bart and I scouted the area and got our bearings with the climbing. We picked the April crack area which had a number of top 50’s at reasonable grades. It turned out to be a good idea.

The April Crack area - Hargreaves Original on the left, April Crack centre and Right Hand Trinity on the right (obviously)

Right Hand Trinity was a good starting point. The crux gave me a chance to see why people regard grit as so grippy. Its amazing how much friction you can generate on it and this proved useful when I got to Hargreaves Original. Whether the loose chockstone was broken already or if I did it didnt stop it suprising me when I tried to pull on it.

Bart on Hargreaves Original

All three climbs are great and for a first adventure on grit I am completely sold. Easy access, short technical routes and good camping facilities make this an obvious choice for a short climbing trip.

Bart finding out he hadnt charged up his camera. Doh!!!

The one factor which I was not used to is the crowds, but to be fair this just made the day more sociable. I still prefer the solitude of Penwith but Stanage has its merits.

Climbing

On a yellow rope and a prayer

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22nd August 2012

Carn Barra

Socket Wall – Severe 4b – Lead
Crack in the Sky – E1 5b – Lead
Exodus – VS 5a – Lead

Carn Barra was our second choice of venue, from the ‘cant make a decision crew’ in the van (Tom, Dave, Chris and Pete) but as it turned out it was the right one. With a quickly dropping tide and a small swell the main platform of CB was dry and we had access to some classic routes.

Socket Wall

Socket Wall was dry and we paired up to tackle two quite tough routes, Socket Wall and Cumbelloe. Both have physical starts and although the pro is decent neither are pushovers at the grade. They turned out to be good warm up routes for what was to come.

Chris moving up Cumbeloe HS 4b

The main event for me was an attempt at Crack in the Sky. I’d been meaning to have a go at another E1 and this was a route I’d had my eye on for some time. A difficult corner leads to a ledge and then comes the strenuous stuff. At first you cant see the holds, but once you’ve committed up onto the face the holds are there.

Pete finds the wobbly chock stone
Thank god for arm bars!

When you reach the crack the jamming starts. Arm bars and fist jams help and there are some hidden edges in the crack but ultimately it is a power struggle and you need to keep going and use your feet as much as possible. I just made it with nothing left in the tank and a real sick feeling from the adrenaline rush. Amazing! One of the best climbs I’ve ever done just because of the effort it took to get to the top. Pete, after a little hesitation got stuck into CITS. The look on his face and Chris’s for that matter rivalled my own when they topped out. That top crack is great, matched equally by their smiles.

Pete fighting with the upper crack on Crack in the Sky

Meanwhile Dave and Tom were knocking off a few routes of their own. Peel Crack and Sleazy Corner to be precise. Two good V Diffs, especially Peel Crack which is atmospheric in its upper section. Both of them are growing in confidence each trip out.

Dave and Tom on Sleazy Corner a hard Difficult or V Diff in other words

 

A well earned lunch left just enough time for a quick assault on Axis and Exodus two VS’s on the higher Eastern platform. I went for Exodus which takes a line similar to Axis but branches off rightwards along a horizontal break. The traverse is great fun but there is a really tricky move up into the steep niche/crack and then another to reach the steeper ground. But its a really good climb as long as you avoid the rope drag and keep in touch with your belayer. Tom did a good job listening out for my jittery shouts, especially when my left hand cramped up due to a distinct lack of salt in my system.

Tom belaying on the Axis ledge

This whole event was capped off when Dave came up on his own because of time. Tom shimmied up Axis and Dave kept asking me to take in on blue. Typical of Sea cliffs, comms are not easy with the roar of the sea and wind. This would explain Daves suprise when I gleefully informed him that he was only on Yellow so what was the point of taking in Blue. Fortunately Dave had tied in on yellow and was past the unprotected traverse by then (all the pro was on blue). He would’nt have decked, but the swing would have been a long one!

God I love climbing.

Climbing

Dont go chasing waterfalls

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27th July 2012
Tregiffian

Gravity Slab – VS 4c – Lead
Green Streaks – VS 4c – Lead
Loose Limpet Crack – HS 4b – Second

Just incredible

So it was back to Tregiffian. Such an incredible place and so much climbing was irresistable. This time we had Pete and Chris in tow, so it was their turn to experience the thorn jungle approach. In fact the whole walk in on this day was pretty arduous. Really hot and with the recent rain the nettles, brambles and hawthorn seemed to have exploded.

The boulder cave entrance

So once there we did the obvious and jumped in the sea (which was still hypothermic). What a brilliant place to swim. There is a natural swimming pool there and with the sun and turquise water it was like being in the mediterranean without the warmth. Tom’s reference to the whole experience being slightly Brokeback Mountain didnt phase anyone, although Tom’s posing on a boulder was slightly dubious.

Ian about to set off on the amazing but bold Gravity Slab
Pete on the crux of Gravity Slab

My first route of the day was gravity slab. Tregiffian has the habit of serving up a variety of good climbs at VS and GS didnt disappoint. Completely different to Acid Test, GS is mostly about one move. But it is bold, both in the lower section and on the crux. The crux is a mantleshelf, out wide from your last piece of gear (which is bomber) so it feels very exposed. Also it’s not easy, making you rely on small crimps and smears to get you over the top. It scared me, but that’s what it is about really. Just the start Chris, Pete and I needed.

Dave finishing off Exit at Tregiffian

Meanwhile Dave and Tom were working their way up Exit so we all met back at the top of the crag. After descending back down we were alittle trapped by the tide. There was no swell but the pool below Loose Limpet Crack was still a bit deep so we went for Green Streak.

Pete on the first and tough pitch of Green Streak
Ian negotiating the slime on Green Streak's second pitch

OK, so this one doesnt look too bad from the bottom but once again it is a real fight. The finger crack is strenuous and difficult to read. The crux move takes some working out on the first pitch, and pro is hard to place. When Chris followed later most of his gear ended up in the rock pool below, but he just wanted an epic – which he got. Pete though made it look easy a good indication of how his climbing is coming on this year.

Suprisingly the second pitch which goes through slimy green rock and a waterfall is great fun. After the strain of the first it adds some fun and I loved it. Even when the water started traveling down my belay setup it just provided a bit of cooling.

Chris getting balanced on Acid Test

Whilst I was on Green Streak, Chris was working his way up Acid Test. Talking to him later he had the same ordeal I did, needing to work out how to tackle the crack. Still the climb of the crag in my opinion.

Cooling my feet
Dave styling on Loose Limpet Crack

Dave had been eyeing up the main face and a great looking V Diff called Loose Limpet Crack. Harder than anything else Dave has done, this was a proper challenge. It involves two transfers from one crack to another, the first being the crux.  Dave cruised through it, providing a fitting end to what was a fantastic day.

Tom high on Loose Limpet Crack

What I find startling is that having done so many top climbs here, there still seems to be loads more. I’m sure we’ll be back soon, hopefully before the end of the summer for another swim.