Tag Archives: Dave

Climbing

Avoiding the squeeze

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4th May 2012

Pordenack Point

Nothing Much – HVS 5a – Lead
Friends – VS 5a – Lead
Wrist Climb – V Diff
Economists Route – V Diff

The aim was to have a go at a set of 3 HVS’s at Pordenack, but the reality was that two is enough to fill you up. Or at least in my case it is.

I tend to think that the routes at Pordenack are in general quite hard for the grade and Nothing Much and Friends proved no exception to that theory. Chris’s assessment of Wrist climb would back that up, with the final traverse and crack being a real challenge for a V Diff leader. Even Economists climb, which Tom and Dave doubled up on for their first alternate lead, is bold in places if not technically difficult.

Ian actually chimneying. A rare sight.
The tough sequence on Nothing Much

We paired up with Chris and Pete on Wrist Climb and me, Dave and Tom on Nothing Much. NM is actually a bit more than nothing. All the difficulty is below the crux, but in damp conditions it felt quite hard and the crux move is exposed and committing. The moves are good though, and getting through the niche is challenging culminating in a less than secure pull up around the obvious flake.

Soaking up the sunshine

Instead of finishing off the second pitch which we had done before, we scrambled back to the gearing up ledge, a pretty exhilarating route in its own right, traversing across the top of all the climbs with lots of airy drops around.

Group Climbing!

Then it was on to friends. In theory an easier climb, but in reality a strenuous and relentless climb once you’ve committed to the main crack. I had a real struggle with this having to work hard throughout and eventually succombing to the pump when I managed to create a really weird nut, Krab and rope knot which I couldnt undo.

Ian wrestling with his nuts....

To be fair I was on my limit then, so this just ensured I didnt make the onsite, but I was only a few moves from the top.

Chris in the upper niche on Friends
Chris on the exposed top moves of Friends

Chris kindly then showed me how to do the top, wild moves finishing off what I had started. Its a brilliant climb, one of the best I’ve done and I’ll be back to clean it. Pete, who had been eyeing the climb up nervously, overcame any uncertainty and gave it everything, making a fantastic job of seconding Chris. Probably the hardest climb Pete’s done so far, so hats off! I made it up on the second, so its just a case of finishing the lead.

Tom and Dave on Economists Route
Tom leading the first and relatively bold pitch of Economists Route

Meanwhile Dave and Tom were on Economists Route. Not technically the most difficult, but bold in places. For their first alternate multipitch lead it was a good choice. It’s easy to forget how challenging Sea Cliffs are at whatever grade so this was a real achievement and I’m sure opens the door to many more ascents.

Finally we all spent some time on Vietnamerica, an E1 with a tricky start, especially now the wedged boulders have fallen down. Its good practice on a climb with thin holds and balancy moves.

Dave high on Vietnamerica

What a cracking day. Hopefully the forerunner to many more this summer. I need to keep working on my stamina. It’ll come, back only with a bit more hard climbing.

 

Climbing, Uncategorized

A late lunch

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12th April 2012

Black Head

Spriggans Chimney – VS 4c – Lead
Archangel – HVS 5a – Lead

I love climbing at Black Head. There’s something about the place that just makes you happy. It’s a hidden amphitheatre with turqoise sea and stunning vista’s across the bay. I never tire of the walk in and on this occasion we managed to get quite a bit closer thanks to a friendly local who told us where to park.

Traversing to the abseil point above Sprigans Chimney

Dave and I were looking to have a go at Archangel, a climb Dave had tagged last time we were there. But the tide was high for the morning so we took on pitch 2 of Spriggans Chimney. To be honest, pitch 2 is the best pitch starting with a steep crack and leading into a corner bypassing a large overhang. As usual it took me a little while to get going, the bottom crack being a little akward with footholds that dont inspire confidence. But the top moves are fun and the traverse across the top of the overhang is exposed and exciting.

Top of Sprigans Chimney

We decided to push straight on with Archangel. A solo down Black Dyke and we were at the belay. This route is superb. Great climbing up the striking corner crack gets you to a small roof. Traverse right here across the face in a great position to find the first belay. Not hard for the grade, but the crux requires good footwork and commitment.

Ian on Pitch 1 Archangel

The top half is fairly easy climbing, disjointed, but fun with strange rock and peculiar moves. By this time we had lost all track of time and we ended up having lunch at 6p.m.! This probably accounts for why I felt rubbish for the next couple of hours.

Belay at the trop of pitch 1 Archangel

Dave however was still raring to go and tackled Rebel Yell, the E2 which goes up the steep headwall. Small holds and balancy moves put him to the test, but he wasnt found wanting, and made it up with a big smile on his face.

Fortunately we didnt have the long walk out. My blood sugar levels were still grumbling so I probably would have struggled. And so ended a fantastic day out. Only Rebel Yell to return to now, which I fancy leading at some point.

Climbing

Moor please

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30-31st March 2012

Hawks Tor and Trewortha Tor

West Chimney – V Diff 4a – Lead
Crack,n,up – V Diff 4b – Lead
Cat Nap – Severe 4b – Lead

This trip came about because of a discussion on camping out on the moor. We had been thinking about doing this later in the year, but with the warm spring it was a case of striking while the iron was hot.

Tony getting ready to take care of those pesky Squirrels!
Our backyard for the night

Hawks Tor is a stunning location. Bodmin moor is bigger than you may think and the collection of Kilmar, Trewortha and Hawks Tor’s are isolated and give a remote feeling you would not expect. We found a perfect spot, flat ground and sheltered from the cold northerly. Fire bucket in tow and Jagermeister stowed in the hip flask we were destined to have a great night.

Bed pal. Courtesy of by Jane

Those pesky Squirrels were back, this time hiding in my sleeping bag, but I made short work of this one; taming it by the morning. Whilst Tony fry’d up his three course breakfast, to complement his steak from the night before  and as an appetiser for his sausages at lunch, I eye’d up the climbs. Tom wanted to do some leading so we concentrated on the South end of the Tor.

Tony negotiating the hard start on Cat NapDave on Cat Nap

The two V Diffs I lead were both good climbs. West chimney was slightly better, but both had challenging finishes. I would say that for a V Diff West Chimney is bold. Straight forward climbing but little gear. The final move can be protected by a carefully placed cam, but your last gear is a long way below and it is an awkward move.

Cat Nap….. Welcome to the ultimate sandbag of the Tor. Graded Severe, but knocking on top end Very Severe. It’s more friendly with a bouldering mat under you, but placing gear is challenging (it is there though) and there are a series of slopers and jams to negotiate, and blood to leave.

Mats heading for Trewortha

Tony, Dave and Tom made it up with varying degrees of style and success. Nick showed us how it should be done. Shame I hadnt given the same example of technique as I fell off the opening moves about a half dozen times! I finally worked out that it was better to undercling than go for the slopers.

We wandered over to Trewortha were I was thoroughly defeated by Just Good Friends, a climb I cruised through the last time I was here. Still, it happens. The best thing about Trewortha is the bouldering. There is loads, and lots of it very hard. We found an 8 inch offwidth on a curved boulder. Laybacking all the way, but suprisingly the hard parft is when the lopes eases. You end up in a quandry as to continue laybacking or get your foot on the face. We all bellyflopped the top which as Nick said, could be the best way to finish it. The whole team negotiated this one which was a great end to a fantastic couple of days on the moor.

Ian's Atlas impression
Climbing

Perfection all around us

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23rd March 2012
Pedn-men-an-mere (St Levan’s Wall)

Geriatrics – Severe 4a – Lead
Midnight Express – E1 5b – Lead

St Levan’s Church is tucked away in a valley near the Minack theatre. Idyllic is probably the best word to describe it, nestled in amoungst a small copse with probably one of the best beaches in Cornwall a few hundred metres away.

The view across to Porth Chapel Beach

There is an honesty box for the grass car park run by a friendly women attendant, who appeared as we were about to leave. Luckily we had ‘been honest’ as ours was the only van in the car park and it would have been fairly obvious if we had not been. The walk in brings you out on a headland  with an absolutely stunning view across Porth Chapel beach.

Getting down to the main face can be tricky but follow the most obvious path to the left of the lookout and it takes you down through boulders and grassy gulleys until you arrive above the Bemuda Wall area. A quick ab down and you’re faced with the two amazing crack lines of Midnight Express and Devils Meridian.

With Tom and Dave making up the trio, we set about Geriatrics, a Severe just above the lower rock pools. It’s a strange line with a tricky start. Wet rock (which it was because of the tide and good sized swell) always un-nerves me and this proved no exception. So the warm up route became an adventure in its own right, with poor rock quality and unreliable holds.

Ian on Geriatrics
Dave on Geriatrics

It did though get me focused on Midnight Express, a line I saw the previous time I was here, and which looks hard but magnetic. After a nervy start where micro’s are the only thing stopping you taking a splash in the rock pool below, the route goes through a series of delicate bridging moves. Unfortunately I spent too long trying to fiddle in pro just below the horizontal break which blew out my arms so I ended up sitting on my gear.

Ian on Midnight Express

I think its something I’ll have to work on. Being confident enough to push on when I need to and leave my gear a bit below me.

Midnight Express - Before the final ramp

Still, I was pleased with my climbing and I’ll return shortly to clean it. Tom and Dave both made it up which was impressive given that it was top end E1 and I reckon a tough 5b on the crux. Be warned though, there is a sting in the tail and on rock with the texture of weetabix.

We finished what was a fantastic day near the marconi slab on a climb originally attempted by Joe. It proved as hard on the repeat, but gave a good bit of climbing to finish on.

Dave on the 5b finale

I’ll be back shortly to do Midnight Express again and possibly have ago at Devils Meridian, although it too looks hard. But it wouldnt be fun if it wasnt!

 

 

Climbing

Squirrel!

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16th March 2012
Dewerstone Woods – Main Face

Climbers Club Ordinary – VS 4b – Lead
Central Groove – HS 4b – Lead

The wind pushed us into choosing The Dewerstone over The Cheesewring. It turned out to be a top decision. With both Chris and myself there, we split into two pairs, Tom teaming up with Chris.

The Dewerstone wove its magic on the walk in, putting us all in a good mood. So when we reached the main face we were ready to go. My original intention was to climb on Raven buttress, but I had a look at CCO and thought it looked OK. So Dave and I geared up and I set off upand across the traverse. CCO is bold in it’s early stages. There is some gear, but you have to look for it and be inventive.

Dave on CCO
Dave on the second overhang on Climbers Club Ordinary

The flakes which at first seem to be a godsend, turned out to be more scary than safe. I got the feeling that if you managed to dislodge one of them, you’d bring down half the cliff face. So I used my feet and tried not to think about the flakes too much.

Chris going directly through the overhang on Climbers Club Ordinary

The overhang below the first belay ledge also adds some excitment. I went straight up it, strictly part of Climbers Club Direct, but wild and fun. Gets the adrenaline flowing.  When Chris led CCO later on he too went direct so we all made the most of it.

The spooky traverse at the top of Pitch 2 CCO

Pitch two we all agreed had another unnerving traverse, different from the first, in that there was pro, but  probably a bit more exposed. By this time you are high up on the face with the woods stretching out below. It’s quite surreal and very beautiful.

Tom concentrating on the second pitch of CCO

The only spoiler for me was the pesky woodland critter (Squirrel) that ate through my pack, then my fleece and managed to steal my crisps and sandwich. Even my strategically lobbed Krab missed it, hit a rock and bounced into the river. There’s no justice. (Tom did retrieve it for me though)

Squirrel!!!!

Our second climb on Central Groove was equally as good and finished up the same top groove meaning that all of us ended up meeting at the end of a brilliant day.

Dave on the upper slab of Central Groove Pitch 1

Two top climbs.

 

Climbing

Deception!

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3rd March 2012

Rosemergy Towers
Flash Back – Severe 4a – Top Rope
Go Shorty – E2  5C – Top Rope

This was a bit of a team outing and a chance to go through a few of the basics of setting up a belay and abseiling. Rosemergy was deserted as it often is, so we had carte blanche to set up a couple of top ropes on the main face and Go Shorty, the tough E2 on the right.

Team Rosemergy

Flash Back is a climb in its own right, with a chimney start and then slab and crack climbing up the centre of the central slab. However it also provides a lead into a number of other variations on the arete and right hand slab. The biggest advantage of this is that it gave everyone a chance to climb on a bit of everything and practice their technique’s.

Pete coming out of the chimney - Flash Back
Dave, high on Flash Back

Now ‘Go Shorty’ was a different proposition. From down slope it looks almost as though it is about a 45 degree angle, but once on it you realise this is just your eyesight playing tricks. This gave a chance to test out just how well we were all coming along after a winter of indoor climbing. As it happens, not badly at all…

Tony working hard - Go Shorty

It is a climb with two crux sections, but is tricky right through with a succession of 5b moves leading to a final move for the top which is given 5c but I think is probably harder. Either that or my fingers are very weak.

Dave working through the perplexing lower moves - Go Shorty
Crimping on the top move - Go Shorty
It's not much, but its all there is.. - Go Shorty

Best of all it gave everyone a taste of what hard outdoor climbing is like and everyone duly donated blood to the cause. The granite here is very crystaline and some bits are like razor blades. Pete and Tom particularly felt generous on this day and all we needed was St Johns Ambulance here to complete the process.

Chilling between climbs

We all spent time falling off, but maybe that’s the advantage of spending time on a hard climb. It gives you an idea of where you are and what you need to improve. By the end of the day we were all knackered, but how lucky were we! Sunshine all day, a bit blowy, but ultimately a perfect day out on the rock.

Climbing

Crows vs Owl. Who would win? Only one way to find out!

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25th November 2011

Black Head
White Russians – VS 4C – Lead rpt

I always love going to Black Head. The walk in from Coverack is second to none, although it requires a bit of effort. The path twists along the coast rising and falling, passing a couple of headlands until it reaches the old coast guard hut above the crag.

Of course you never get surf at Coverack because its on the East side of the Lizard and completely sheltered from the Atlantic swells. So why was it 3ft and clean, almost good enough to pop a wetsuit on and get in; except that it was closing out. This of course made me look stupid in front of Dave and Tom to whom I had given assurances about the absence of waves.

The Damp Belay

The base of Black Head consists of a V gulley where it is possible to set up a belay for all the routes on the main face. This acts like a barrel for the waves as the tide pushes, funneling them straight at whoever remains at the belay. This of course was Tom and Dave. We had a while before the tide got too high so I quickly got started on White Russians, one of my favorite VS’s in Cornwall. The original intention was to tackle Archangel, the HVS but given the volatile conditions at the base of the crag I decided speed was of the essence.

White Russians - 1
White Russians - 2
White Russians - 3
White Russians - 4

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

WR starts with a traverse into Black Dyke and then sets off up the slab. Loads of positiv small holds and foot placements gets you to the rising ramp and the best part of the climb. Over all too quickly but with a fantasticaly atmospheric crux as you move around the corner – which gave me a birds eye view of Dave and Tom dodging waves which were getting closer and closer to them.

Dave playing with water

This was a change to the last two VS’s I had them on at Carn Barra. They were strenuous, this was balancey and just a pleasure to climb- if a bit loose in places. So both arrived with big smiles next to the Rooks nest.

Dave starting on the initial crack
Dave moving onto the ramp

With no chance of getting another route in, we set of for Chynhalls Point just before Coverack. The walk through the bronze wildlife created by Terence Coventry is odd. There is a field full of statues, left open for anyone to wander through. A bit sureal, but fun to see. Watch you dont tread on the real rabits.

Bronze Crows

It turned out there were some boulders here and we messed around on these for a while until it started to get dark. The rock is a bit snappy so care is needed, but the route up the front face is challenging. Traversing the bolder turned out to be the hardest with a tough move across into a vertical crack.

The boulder - Straight up the face
Chynhalls Point Bouldering

 

 

 

 

 

 

The three crows giving a Barn Owl a really hard time of it, (chasing it off down the point) reminded us that it was time to go. The walk back towards the lights of Coverack was a great finish to a day of spectacular views and climbing.

Jenga rock at Black Head

 

Climbing

No sensible shoes…. In fact, no shoes at all!

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Trewellard
13th November 2011

West Face
Solo – Severe 4a – TR
Microcosm – V Diff – TR

A strange day not helped by one of those hangovers which doesnt make you feel ill but reminds you that you’ve drunk a little too much wine the night before.

This also manifested itself in the form of early memory loss, which in turn messed up all our carefully laid plans. Our initial target was to have a look at the Pedn Kei Area, but a howling (and I mean howling) wind put that in jeopardy. Being a North Easterly we new the cliffs would be sheltered low down, but the walk in via Gurnards Head proved to bracing – bracing enough to make me remember that my climbing shoes were nicely tucked away in my garage on the trailer. Doh!

View to Robins Rocks

Unfortunately the previous days rain had made the whole area greasy and damp so we decided to have a look at what I though was Sensible Shoes at Robins Rocks but turned out to be Carn Gloose. There were two climbers coming back up from the point and they kindly put me right explaining they had been looking at Astrol Stroll but had backed off because of the wet.

The views all around the headland are pretty primeval, especially in this days conditions. Its a fantastic setting for climbing and we will return, but on a day when I have shoes and the rock feels abit more grippy.

And so started a hunt for a climbing spot. Being a Sunday and with the wind from the East the North Coast was busy… or as busy as Cornwall gets.

Rosemergy Cove

So we moved on from Rosemergy and Bosi and ended up at Trewellard. A new venue for me. Trewellard looks like it has been stripped of everything living. A real reflection of the mining activity of this area. The rock is fractured and worked with strange coloured liquid seeping from it. A total contrast to the natural cliffs, but just as dramatic. Getting your bearings is difficult. The guide was fairly precise but given the random nature of the rock formations obvious landmarks seemed hard to find.

Brown Buttress and Black Cliff
Dave on the Solo Belay

We ended up on the West Face, the most protected from the wind. Given that I only had my walking boots I decided to set up a top rope so that we could play on a couple of climbs. This turned out to be a good call, giving us a few hours of quality climbing. The best climbing looked to be on the main face, but I want to lead these so we saved them for another day.

Solo Severe 4a - West Face
Strange Seepages

Overall a quirky day but really enjoyable. More of an opportunity to explore some areas I’d not been to and yet again an assault on the senses with the combination of breath taking views and raging weather.

Climbing

Two of a kind

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28th October 2011
Carn Barra
Weasle – VS 4c – Lead
Axis – VS 5a – Lead

A glorious Friday provided a perfect setting for a trip to Carn Barra. I thought I’d go for a couple of stiff VS’s having seen how well Tom and Dave climbed on our last outing to Pordenack Point.

The ab in

This turned out to be a good and bad decision. I wanted to lead both, but adding the extra dimension of seconding and removing gear is a lot tougher than maybe I’d factored in. Carn Barra is a stunning setting. Golden granite and solitude are typical and the quality fo climbs is second to none.

Weasle
Weasle

Weasle is a low tide, low swell climb. Rising from right to left its two main features are overhangs which have to be negotiated with exposed and slightly wild moves out onto the face. Its a brilliant strenuous route and has risen to one of my favorite. Negotiating the first overhang is a bit heart in mouth until you find the better holds – its well protected but is exposed enough to get the heart pumping.

Tom on Weasle
Dave on Weasle

The top crack is brilliant. I did the left hand variation which is a little harder but more fun and continues the line of the main crack. Because of the angle of the crack, footwork plays a big part and some of the moves can be a bit baffling. Despite a short spell of confusion on the second overhang, Tom worked it out and negotiated the top wall. For Dave, unfortunately a stuck chock (which is still there) , put paid to a clean ascent as he spent a considerable amount of time trying to get it out and in doing so blew his arms. In the end he pushed himself to finish on spent muscles and no grip. A great effort.

Axis - the bit I didnt make

Axis extends the strenuous nature of Weasle, but is steeper. The short bottom wall is difficult and not really protectable. With my knee I decided to give it a miss and solo’d up the first part of Dialectic. As it turned out I too ran out of steam on this one. The crack was a bit wet and short slip half way up cost me the onsite. It also caused me to faf around for 5 minutes trying to put in gear when the correct choice was to move on. I’m going to come back soon and complete the climb in full, bottom wall and all.

Dave on Axis

 

Ian on Axis

Both Tom and Dave clearly found this one easier than Weasle, because they both cleaned it – although I had to ab down to retrieve some left gear. Still it gave me another opportunity to climb the crack again which I did. By this time we were rapidly running out of daylight so a nice slow walk back along the stunningly beautiful and quiet coastpath capped off a great day out.

Packing up

 

Carn Barra Shadow
Climbing

A Different church

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15th October 2011
Pordenack Point
Wrist Climb – V Diff – Lead
Vietnamerica – E1 – TR

After you’ve watched 127 hours, the access to the main cliff at Pordenack takes on a different complexion. The huge chockstones wedged in the narrow gap make you think. Fortunately Dave, Tom and myself didnt need a blunt knife to make it through.

Pordenack Point

 

For Dave and Tom Pordenack was a new experience and it never ceases to make me smile when you emerge onto the seaward face from the dark damp gap. Only pausing briefly to gear up we dropped down to the base and around to the bottom of the gulley area.

Tom on Vietnamerica

Wrist climb, as it turns out, is like a mini Diocese. A straight foraward ascent of the groove brings you to a large platform and its at this point the fun really begins. For Dave and Tom there was some added risk as a second, because the first move is a drop across a gulley where a fall would result in a good swing and some close contact with the cliff. Then its a very airy traverse under a huge overhang. No where near as hard as Diocese but with enough exposure to make you consider religion. I think its a fantastic climb for the grade. Completely underated in the guidebooks, but an absolute must for anyone who just loves to climb.

There’s a sting in the tail as well! The final very short pitch is considerably harder than the rest of the climb and provides a suitable finale. Dave made a comment which probably sums up the climb. He felt you could never see what was coming next. Full of suprises….

Dave on Vietnamerica

We finished on a top rope on Vietnamerica, a climb I have done before but now in different condition having seem part of the lower section fall away. This makes it considerably harder,  but Tom and Dave seemed to cope with this fairly straight forwardly. Unlike me who struggled with it. It was the upper reaches which defeated them both, but its here that the climb becomes more about little pinches and crimps and careful footwork. That said, to be doing E1’s after only a few weeks outside is pretty good going!

Ian after the hard start

And so ended a great day. The walk out yielded one last event. We bumped into a group of lads from London (their first time in Cornwall) who were buzzing over how fantastic Lands End was. It called for a guided tour of the narrow gap which hopefully will give them some everlasting memorys of Cornwall.

Emerging from the 127 gap