Tag Archives: Dave

Climbing

First fin of the year.

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6th July 2012

Vessacks West/Vessacks Point

Phallus – Severe 4a – Second
Elizabeth – HVS 5a – Lead
Vessactomy – Severe 4a – Second

Vessacks Point

Vessacks is not the easiest place to find. The directions in the guide book referred to a balanced boulder which we never found. Approaching from St Levens Church we went further west and came back along the coast path. The most prominent feature is a rugged island sat to the west of the main point and this is a good landmark for finding Vessacks West which is down to the right facing out.

Chris moving up Phallus

It’s tidal so it took a while to dry and to make the most of the drying time we scouted out the point. There are a series of Severe’s and V Diffs here and Dave set off on Phallus for the first lead of the day.

Crux of Phallus

The clue is in the name. A series of ledges leads to a top wall and a striking appendage. This forms the crux of the route with an exposed move through the overhang. During the course of Dave’s ascent we were lucky enough to see our first ‘Basker’ of the season. It’s always brilliant to see these huge ceatures cruising by and a good sign summer is here (as long as you ignore the rain).

Ian gripped on Elizabeth

Back at Vessacks West we were struggling to find a route not wet. Elizabeth being an arete seems to be fairing better than the corners although it too had damp patches. I think the wet always undermines my confidence and this was no exception. I faffed around for ages before finally moving up into the second niche. The pro wasnt brilliant and the holds greasy so it was all a head game. The fact Chris had pulled a ist sized chunch of rock away while we were bouldering around probably didnt help either.

Ian moving into the upper niche on Elizabeth
High on Elizabeth

Once underway the route is fine although another tricky section awaits near the top. The climb is a little spoiled by a chossy top ramp which is vegetated. But the location makes up for it providing a belay with a stunning view over the rock pools below the buttress.

Chris at the first overhang on Elizabeth

The final climb of the day lead by Chris proved to be deceptive. The guide indicates going straight up the central top spike. A series of tricky rounded ledges leads to a totally unprotected and rounded top slab. Not possible at Severe and most likely in the E’s realistically. The groove to the right gives a better finish at the grade.

Chris working hard on Vessactomy

This capped off another terrific day out. I want to try Madonna of the Waves next time. Harder, but if dry I think it will be good.

Climbing

So much to choose from

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28th June 2012

Trewavas East Buttress

Mascara – VS 4c – Lead
Sams Indirect finish to bending chimney – VS 4c – Second

We needed somewhere dry and not blown away by the fresh breeze and Trewavas seemed a fair bet. For Chris it was his first visit and for Dave it was a return after a fairly lengthy break. In fact when he was last here I was just starting off with my own climbing and I remember well how I struggled to get going on Joy.

Stunning!

On this excursion I picked an adjacent climb called Mascara. I’d seen a photo online and ever since wanted to have a crack at it. The initial section is straight forward until you reach the top of the corner underneath the overhang,

The scary bit on Mascara

Then it gets interesting. A long bridge opens up the arete and you need to swing out and pull up onto the face around the corner. Tricky but just keep looking for the  holds and you’ll find them.

Chris getting flexible with Mascara

I actually found the top crack the most nervewracking, because of the lack of decent pro. It’s not difficult but adds an edge to the end of the climb. Mascara gets a thumbs up in my book though. A top climb.

Bending Chimney - A classic route

Deviously I suggested Sams indirect finish to Bending Chimney as a possible lead for Chris. Having done the top section as part of Flanker a few weeks back with Pete I knew what he was in for.

Probably the crux move on SIFTBC

And it didnt disappoint. Chris cruised through the chimney and came to an abrupt stop at the base of the crack. The usual result in my experience.

Dave trying a layback on SIFTBC

The biggest factor is the sudden exposure and then going from relatively relaxed climbing in the chimney to strenuous work getting up the initial part. of the narrow crack. With the pump on from the start Chris found himself running out of energy with 3 feet to go. The result was a desperate push for the top  before the arms gave out. This time Chris made it and deprived us of the spectacle of a lob off the steep face. A really top effort.

Dave on the top crack of SIFTBC

With so many climbs in a small area we’ve plenty more to go back to. Including South Groove an E1  I ‘ve been meaning to have a go at for a while.

 

Climbing

Jungle Warfare

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22nd June 2012

Tregiffian

Thea – Severe 4a – Second
Acid Test – VS 4c – Lead
Prior Claim – Severe 4a – Second

The hardest part about climbing at Tregiffian is getting there. A solid walk in from Boskenna Cross gets you to a low granite wall and a very indistinct path that just disappears into massive stinging nettles and brambles.

Tregiffian in all its glory

A machette would be handy here, but after getting scratched and stung in the cliff jungle you burst out onto a glorious meadow which sits above the crag. There below is Tregiffian, a small amphitheatre of ochre granite. It’s beautiful.

Dave high on Thea
Thea top to bottom

Finding your bearings takes a while, but if you follow the rocky buttress on the right facing out you come to a cave made out of precariously balanced boulders. This leads to the main crag. The swell meant the far side of the crag was wave washed an unaccessable even at low tide, but there were a number of routes close to the cave. The first of which was Thea which Dave set about leading.

Dave on the crux of Thea
Tom just above the crux of Thea

Graded Severe, Thea has a tricky and poorly protected crux. The rock is a bit suspect too in the lower reaches, but the higher you get the better everything becomes, culminating in some brilliant face climbing below the pinnacle. A good climb in my books and a great first Severe lead for Dave.

Tom in the niche of Prior Claim

Tom lead the last climb of the day, Prior Claim, also his first severe, making it a landmark day. This was a complete contrast in technique to Thea. Protection was good throughout, but there were a number of exposed and tricky moves, both low down and near the top.

Dave about to step out on Prior Claim

Riding high on the rounded crest of the ridge, it is spectacularly placed and was agreat climb to finish the day on.

Ian about to start the crack of Acid Test
Looking down from the belay of Acid Test

Sandwiched in between these two was my lead on Acid Test. It is worthy of it’s stars. Innocuous from the ground it proves a lot more trcky when you get up to it. I thought it was a hand traverse, but instead in became an exercise in balance, requiring some contortions to place gear.

Looking across at Acid Test the right to left thin rising crack.

As much as it scared the pants of me at first, I thought it was excellent and I want to do it again – this probably says it all about how much I rate it.

Dave soloing high above Acid Test

The walk back out was long and hard and we were all knackered by time we got to the car (having chased a fox out of the adjacent field). Tregiffian is already marked in my diary for an early return. This time with the full crew and with a smaller swell so we can tackle the whole crag. Oh yes and with a fishing rod!

Climbing

How Old?

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17th June 2012
Penberth

They do at that age – HVS 5a – Lead

I’m not sure what age this climb refers to, but its one I’ve wanted to lead right from when I first started climbing. Penberth was a regular destination back in the mid 00’ies. Lots of top roping and soloing, but I avoided the main problems. Probably because I didn’t feel confident to tackle them.

Gearing up for They Do At That Age

My recollection of TDATA was that I  fell off it on a Top Rope way back and that it was hard. It lived up to my memories. A great but balanced and airy traverse leads to an awkward crack.

Dave on the traverse into the crack

There are plenty of protection opportunities but as you go higher the crack runs out resulting in a transfer across to another crack on the right. This is the crux imo, and takes a bit of working out. The thank God flake tops it off.

Pre crux on They Do At That Age

There is an offwidth to finish on, but it is very hairy with lichen and gritty. Also there is no pro and a fall off the top here would result in a 30-40ft wipper. So I balked and escaped sideways, content I’d done what was a fantastic face climb. 3 stars.

Both Dave and Tom finished the wide top crack, which is great for laybacking. It just needs more traffic.

Hornet looking deceptively easy angled....

We moved across to Hornet and short but great VS. As with many climbs it looks easier than it is. Dave and Tom practised on gear placement, which on Hornet is not easy.

The flared cracks of Hornet

The direct finish is committing. The pro for it is low and in a flared crack so probably not reliable. Take the niche and there are more options. Personally I prefer the groove finish. More technical and rounds off the climb nicely.

Tom topping out on Hornet
Climbing

A case of mistaken identity

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9th June 2012
Helman Tor

Hell’s Tooth – E2 5c – Lead

A very late decision to get out and climb brought Dave and myself to Helman Tor. The easy option for us when in a bit of a hurry (The Euro’s are on and as much as I want to climb I also want to watch the football) and given the unsettled weather a chance for some bouldering… or so I thought.

I also forgot the guidebook so it was a case of climb what you think looks good. And the rounded arete on the lower section looked good. After explaining to Dave that I thought it was about E1 we set up.

The biggest issue is the pro. The bottom section is bold and despite a runner out wide I was aware that a fall here would hurt. Dave’s advice was to start on the ‘Bloody Hellman’ face a swing round onto the arete and this proved right. A sketchy move to the break lets you get some gear in and then it’s a case of tackling each rounded overlap until you get to the the final move.

This was not as bad as I thought it would be. The potential for a drop into the fissure between Bloody Hellman and the adjacement rock is there, but there are a couple of good holds. After farting around for a bit double checking my pro I went for it, discovering that I need to do a bit more flexibility training in the process. My leg just doesnt go that high most of the time.

Finding out it was my first E2 was brilliant, although I would say it is E2 for the boldness as much as anything. 5c is probably a bit high for the technical grade, although I think this depends on how you climb it!

 

Climbing

A right good spanking

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1st June 2012

St Loy

Ivy Incorporated – V Diff – Second
Harmony – HVS 5b – Lead (dnf)
Monochrome Men – E1 5b – Second
Supercruise – HVS 4c – Lead

I returned to St Loy for one specific reason on this day and as with my attempt before with Joe, Harmony gave me a good seeing to.

Once again things just did not flow on this HVS. I thought I new what I was going to do, but its easy to forget how akward the climb is and how pumpy it is too. Add to this my sweaty hands and I had a recipe for disaster which I duly served up to myself.

Ian making it look like a straight forward step up. IT ISN'T!

I have resolved now to return on a cool evening and remember the lessons I have learnt so far.

  • Dont place pro on the high crucial hold on the first niche. Otherwise you just make it even harder.
  • Wait until my hands are not as sweaty so I can get the jam working on the second niche.
  • Do this climb at the end of a session, otherwise the bitter taste of defeat stays with you.
Ian about to get his second spanking of the day on Harmony
At least this time I didnt spit my dummy out…..just.
Otherwise this was a great session, mixed with Chris adding to his E1 tally and Dave tackling a stiff V Diff. And we had the company of Dolphins, which always brings a smile to your face.
Dave kicking things off on Ivy Incorporated

 

Ivy Incorporated is not a straight forward V Diff. The bottom section is steep and unusually for a climb of this grade you place gear in a not very relaxed position.
Dave looking after Ian on Ivy Incorporated
But it is a fine climb, leading to a high top out above the main face. Dave managed to find the biggest pro placement I’ve ever seen looping a sling around a three ton boulder. Its what you might call ‘bomber’.
Chris moving onto the face on Monochrome Men
Chris had great fun on Monochrome Men, a demanding E1 but well protected. It really should get four stars it’s that good. As some passing climbers said, if MM was up country there would be people on it all day and I could see why. A committing swing on to the face leads to good holds and pro.
Chris getting balanced before the final tenuous moves on Monochrome Men
But as you get higher the holds and foot placements start to get thin culminating in a desperate move for the thank god holds at the top. Just brilliant.
Dave about to encounter the difficult stuff on Monochrome Men
My final climb of the day was Supercruise, a soft HVS given 4c, but really more 4b in my opinion. I think it gets the HVS for the bold moves high up where you leave your pro a way behind.
Cruising on Supercruise
Having said that, its a good climb, if a little taxing on the toes. I thoroughly enjoyed it and it is a good candidate for a warm up if your going to tackle the other more demanding E numbers at St Loy.
And with that we walked out a lot quieter than we had arrived. Exhausted but happy.
…. as Larry
Climbing

Old Guns!

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29th May 2012

Carn Gowla – Triple Buttress

Rainbow Games – TR
Four for Texas – TR

I thought that with the dry conditions of recent weeks an inaugeral trip to Carn Gowla for our little group was in order. It turned out to be a good call with perfect conditions.

The perfect Evening

To keep up the momentum of recent weeks, we set up for some top roping. Time to just climb hard and enjoy it without the hard work and mental stress of leading. Mind you, Carn Gowla is intimidating in its own right and coming face to face with the overhanging Buttress C sobered everyone up quickly.

Chris tackling the tricky start on Rainbow Games

By the end of the session though everyone had got some good strenuous routes done and given the jump in grade it was a good effort. Both climbs are slightly overhanging and both have tricky starts.

Dave low down on Rainbow Games

But once going the climbing is strenuous but fun. The hardest part is setting up the belay on rock your never quite sure about.

Ian on FFT

Having climbed Rainbow Games for the second time and intend to go back shortly and lead it. It suites my style of climbing perfectly, and whilst not being an onsite it would make a great first E2 lead.

Climbing

Sea Breeze

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25th May 2012

Pen Olver

Blind Pew – V Diff – Second
Great Slanting – V Diff – Second
Bilsons Foul Play – V Diff – Second
Mule – HVS 5a – Lead

Probably the trickiest part of climbing at Pen Olver is finding your way there and down to the base of the crag. If you approach past the Housel Bay Hotel its not obvious where the climbing is. The best bet is to head for the end of the headland and when you are about 100yards away head down to the edge on what is a small rocky outcrop.

Pen Olver in all its glory.

This soon turns into a more substantial piece of rock and unlikely as it seems at the time if you keep heading down you eventually reach the top of a narrow and exposed descent ramp. Good luck in finding it, but ultimately it is worth it.

The weather being what it is in Cornwall decided to go from cool to baking overnight which meant we were scratching our heads thinking of a venue which wasnt going to overheat. Pen Olver matched up nicely.

Why me? I could be at home working, but no, you make me come climbing.....

Its a great venue and we spent the day on the main ledge giving access to the Pen Olver Slab and the climbs on the Western sector. With Tom and Dave eager to get some more leading in we started on Great Slanting, a tremendous climb with a really open finish. Described as steady, this is a good description requiring Dave to work hard for pro. Probably the most technical of the V Diffs we climbed this day.

Dave on the early stages of Great Slanting
Dave high on Great Slanting

Tom moved onto Blind Pew which carves a way straight up the middle of the slab. This one saves its crux for the last third with some exposed climbing on a vertical niche. The pro too gets harder to place the higher you get. Its a great line and deserves stars.

Tom moving up Blind Pew.
Tom on the crux of Blind Pew

I had been eyeing up ‘Mule’ an HVS between the two. This turned out to have a well protected, but pumpy start and a poorly protected but technical finish. A bit of everything really which made it really enjoyable. I was quite suprised at how good it was, so finished it with a big smile.

Dave on the top and poorly protected slab of Mule

Last of all was Bilsons Foul Play. As the tide had swamped the main platform, this was an obvious choice. A good climb, steep and following a distinct chimney, but probably not as good as the two main face climbs.

Dave leading Bilson's Foul Play

Still, you cant complain when you’ve had sunshine and fantastics views all day and the climbing has matched up. A brilliant day out in a beautiful part of Cornwall.

 

 

Climbing

True Grip

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22nd May 2012

Roche Rock

Swink Chimney – VS 4c – Lead
Lord Falmouth – E1 5b – Lead

Our regular Tuesday evening focused on Roche Rock and a number of great climbs on the South and South West face.

Chris and Tom got stuck into Porkys, whilst Dave and I set about having a minor epic on Swink Chimney. Described as VS the bottom part of the pitch seems overly easy, with just a short strenuous pull into the initial crack. But the suprise is in the top section. From below this looks fairly innocuous, but up close it overhangs and isnt the easiest crack to get established in.

After a while of trying to figure out the easy way to do it, I decided there wasnt one and just launched up into it.  It remains strenuous, but the holds improve with height to an airy top out. Better than I thought it was going to be to be honest.

The end of the session was a suprise. Both Chris and I took on Lord Falmouth, the E1. To be fair it is given E1 because of the relativelt unprotected slab at the start. However there is a micro placement fairly high up and an agile belayer would ensure you didnt deck. The fantastically grippy Roche ‘rock’ came to our aid and Chris and I made short work of the slab. Most importantly this was Chris’ first E1 and a real landmark, so we all left on a high.

Climbing

The Guano Glacier

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18th May 2012
Fox Promontory

Reveille – HS 4b – Second
The Muzzle – HVS 4c – Lead

I dont know how many times I looked at the photo of The Muzzle in the Rockfax guide and thought that I’d like to try it.

Looking back up the promontory

So with cracking weather and the right tide plus no swell, the opportunity presented itself. Chris, Tom and Dave accompanied me on what was my first visit to the crag. I’ve walked past it plenty of times and it always looked spectacular. The north face is dark, but once you’re down there it looses some of it’s menace. The lines are obvious and there are plenty of the them.

Dave and Tom on Vixens Crack
Belay at the top of Vixen's Crack

With Tom and Dave getting on the steep and exposed Vixen’s Crack, Chris and I set up for Reveille. This climb rises leftwards across the main face to finish up a steep narrow slab next to a crack.  There are a couple of tricky sections; the start is quite bold and needs thought on protection and then comes the best part, a very balancy traverse at about mid height. It’s great, but you need to keep your nerve when there are few holds. Brilliant fun and a top climb.

Chris just after the tricky traverse on Reveille

Unfortunately the tide pushed up fairly quickly so we had to abandon the attempt on The Curtain Raiser, what looked like a top route following a vein of crystals. So it was onto the nose to have a go at the two classic routes there. Or so we thought.

Ian at the base of The Mussle

There was one fly in the ointment. The Whisker, the VS on the right of the promontory facing in, turned out to be in the hands of the guls and cormorants. The slab round the arete looking like a snow field with the amount of guano on it.

Chris and Dave after completing The Mussle

So we all had a go at the Muzzle with Chris clocking up his second HVS lead. The Muzzle is as good as it looks. The crack is strenuous but has positive holds and plenty of pro. The move out under the overhang is a bit more scary. It’s a case of move out and keep going into open fresh air. The holds are there but you have to look and keeping your feet on the rock is interesting. At one point I managed to leaver off my only grip just snatching another hold before I did some air time.

Chris finishing off The Mussle

The day added up to another brilliant adventure on Cornish Rock, with Dave and Tom recording another route together. We spent a while snoozing in the sunshine before sauntering off back to the van. We will be back at FP shortly I am sure.

Chilling after tide finished our session at Fox Promontory