Tag Archives: Pete

Dave does descending

17th January 2014

Trewarvas – West Crag

Mouseproof – S 4a – Lead

A late start meant that Pete and I only had time for one route and Mouseproof proved to be a worthwhile undertaking.

The big Reach
The big Reach

For a Severe it is quite bold. Pro is tricky to find and a couple of the balancy moves require you to gain height before placements become available. I really liked it and enjoyed the exposure of the final moves.

Dave high on Avalanche Direct
Dave high on Avalanche Direct

Meanwhile Dave, Chris and Tom were on Avalanche having a go at the direct variation. This is an entirely different proposition to the regular route. Much thinner in the top section and much more difficult. Dave could testify to this as he put in some air time during a valiant attempt to clean the final few moves. Pete managed to sail through Avalanche making the top moves look fairly tame. They’re not!

Pete on Avalanche
Pete on Avalanche

A short day really, but hopefully just a taster for what is to come.

It’s behind you!!!!

5th July 2013

Carn Kenidjack

Seadreams Cliff and The Main Face

Seadreams – HS 4b – Lead
Great Central – Severe 4a – Lead
The Shield – E1 5a – Lead

The first time anyone goes to Carn Kenidjack it has the same wow effect on them. A near vertical wall which at first glance looks featureless is an intimidating sight. For four of the team on this day it was their first time and I’m sure it didnt disappoint.

Pete setting off on Seadreams
Pete setting off on Seadreams

We started on the Seadreams Cliff thinking we had plenty of tide and that there was little swell. Wrong on both counts I’m afraid. Plenty of swell which kept washing up the ramp below the routes and threatening to engulf our feet. Chris and I went haring off up a route each thinking that we’d only get one in, only to find we had time for a second and had only succeeded in cocking up the rotating leads. Oh well, it turned out well for me which is the important thing. 🙂

A killer belay..... at least it will be when that rock lands on Chris!
A killer belay….. at least it will be when that rock lands on Chris!

Both routes on the Seadreams cliff were good if a bit short in stature. We all got a crack at both pitches. Seadreams is the better of the two, but with a stunning view across to Cape Cornwall both seemed brilliant on this day. The pushing tide was threatening to swamp someone on the ramp. Chris as the last man standing confidently watched a surge miss him on the cliff side without realising that it nearly got him from behind although he was totally oblivious to this.

Chris enjoying Great Central
Chris enjoying Great Central

The it was time for the main event! We down climbed into Kenidjack. Its steep and is intimidating at first, but secure enough if you are confident. As you walk into the amphitheatre you suddenly realise how magnificent the main face is. A shear wall that seems blank at first but is full of holds and cracks.

First view of the main face for the crew.
First view of the main face for the crew.

Chris and Dave set up for Saxon Direct. This is probably my favorite climb of all time. It has everything. It seems unlikely at the grade but as it unfolds you realise there are holds a plenty. Gear can be hard to find unless you think carefully. It’s there, but it takes some finding.

Dave at the horizontal crack before the tough top wall of Saxon Direct
Dave at the horizontal crack before the tough top wall of Saxon Direct

The same could be said for the Shield. The bottom pitch has spaced gear but its good. The climbing is pretty good too and no pushover. Tom and Pete seemed to really enjoy this pitch and we all ended up at a very cosy belay. From here the character of the climb changes. No longer good gear and larger holds. Now it becomes small crimpy holds and foot placements and poor gear for about 10 metres.

A very relieved me after getting through the bold section of P2 The Shield
A very relieved me after getting through the bold section of P2 The Shield

Once you get to the groove of Thane there is something and you can breathe a sigh of relief. Up to that point the motto is ‘dont fall off’. We all made it though and a very satisfied team collected at the gearing up ‘hole’ to pat each other on the back a recollect at what was an amazing day.

View to Cape Cornwall
View to Cape Cornwall

Cornwall delivers again with excitement, beauty and in our case, comradery.

REBORN!

18th May 2013

Pen Olver – (The Lizard)

Songs from a Gentle Man – VS 4c – Lead 
The Peoples Queen – VS 4c – Lead
Dolphin Surprise – HS 4b – Lead
Songs from a Broken Heart – VS 4c – Lead
The Womb Tomb – Severe – Second

Despite our round about route to The Lizard via St Erth (caused by our usual indecision)  this turned out to be a good choice. 2013 is going to be the year of the never ending winter. Lots of sun on this day, but accompanied by a cold North Westerly which we were fortunate to be sheltered from.

Gearing up.
Gearing up.

We managed quite a few climbs on this day. With all the routes being single pitch and access very easy we were up and down all day. Dave and I kicked off on a cracker called Songs from a Gentle Man, a route which follows an exposed arete. It looks bold at first but there’s gear where you need it. The rock is fragile in places, but you dont need to haul on it. Use your feet well and it feels secure. I thought it was great, one of the best at this venue.

The arete of Songs from a Gentle Man
The arete of Songs from a Gentle Man

Meanwhile Tom was leading the tricky Vumba, which has some good moves in its final section. Dave set off on Peoples Queen, which is hard VS. The difficulties are short lived, but the main groove pushes you out and if you get your shape wrong its tough.

Pete exiting the difficult groove of Peoples Queen.
Pete exiting the difficult groove of Peoples Queen.

Pen Olver_May13 014

My attempt on Dolphin Surprise was delayed whilst I tried to work out the opening moves. Considering this was graded HS 4b it was the hardest move I did all day. It’s a real pumpy pull up to the first ledge using a less than perfect hold. Once past this the rest of the climb is straight forward, but its a shock to the system.

The view from the start of Womb Tomb. Tom about to head off.
The view from the start of Womb Tomb. Tom about to head off.

The four of us left the best till last. The Womb Tomb is brilliant. You get to the start through a narrow gash in the rock which brings you into a dark almost enclosed chimney which widens as it rises. Climb this on surprisingly grippy rock until you break out into the sunrise with a wide bridging move.

The bold move out of the dark chimney.
The bold move out of the dark chimney.

A bold step across lets you exit onto the seaward side of the pinnacle on the right (facing landwards). A climb that is guaranteed to put a smile on your face.

Ian and Pete’s alternative start to Commando Ridge

7th May 2013

Bosigran Ridge Area

Gallipoli – E1 5c – Lead
Commando Ridge – HVS 5a Variation – Lead

An early finish from work was the call, especially with the news bleating on about a change in weather. A rain front was due around 6pm so we thought we could grab a few hours before it arrived.

The last time we came to this area we got caught out by rain so this time it was a pronto decent to the bottom platform. Gallipoli caught my eye a while back. A fantastic line up immaculate granite. It’s given 5c in the guide, but from the bottom doesnt look too bad.

The line of Galipoli
The line of Galipoli

Looks can be deceptive though and I was soon taught a lesson in how to miss-read a crux from below. Pete, diligent as always witnessed me try a number of different variations to nail the crux, before I realised it was a case of ‘manning up’ and going for it. I made it, but I cant say I felt secure. Once committed the holds become apparent but they are not helpful as a whole.

I’ve not done a lot of 5c moves and this felt significantly harder than the 5b’s I’d done recently. It gives me confidence for having a go at some of the E2’s in this range though.

Looking back at our alternative start
Looking back at our alternative start

Pete declined Gallipoli but we spotted a slightly different line following a crack which finishes in the niche at the top of Pitch 2 of commando ridge. Not in the guide I would guess it to be in the HVS 5a region. Strenuous and sustained but with good pro. The two Herring Gulls guarding their nest looked on in amusement and a bit of angst as Pete and I struggled up and traverse around into the niche. (we kept well clear of them and their eggs)

Eggs!
Eggs!

Once on the ridge we thought it would be churlish not to tackle the big fin. This is probably the best pitch on the ridge and I didnt want to rob Pete of the chance of standing on the pinnacle which he did in good style.

Pete on the fin
Pete on the fin

We abandoned the ridge with grey clouds building all around us. Perfect timing and back in time for tea this time. Next up….. Lands End me thinks.

Dont forget your vitamin supplements

Chudleigh Rocks

19th April 2013

Great Western – VS 5a – Alt Lead
The Slot – HVS 5a – Lead
Sarcophagus – VS 4b – Alt Lead

At last we have the first proper summer day. Chudleigh delivered on the sunshine and the fun and gave our wintery white pasty bodies a treat of Vitamin D and a boost of energy.

My House??
My House??

After a number of alternative locations had been considered we chose Chudleigh and as it turned out it was the right place to be. Sometimes Chudleigh suffers from seepage, but the rain had kept off the limestone for a few days and it was in perfect condition.

Nick and I started off on Great Western, a VS which weaves its way up the most southerly face. Its brilliant and Nick was considerate enough to let me link pitches 2 & 3 together so I got to tackle the testing overhang on P3. P1 is no push over though. A delicate traverse up to the belay which is capped off by a tricky mantle which Nick cruised through.

Nick after P1 on Great Western
Nick after P1 on Great Western

I was not quite so smooth on the overhang. Dithering over a micro which I eventually backed up by clipping the peg (should’ve done that in the first place). Its a great move though and once I got going it was fine.

The line of Great Western
The line of Great Western

Meanwhile Tom and Pete were working their way up the glassy Barn Owl Crack which I gather is not so enjoyable. However  they made up for it with ascents of Salome and the inappropriately named Wogs, both of which were very good. Considering it was their first time on Limestone, they both seemed to take to it well. Limestone is very different from Granite and Chudleigh acts the additional dimention of ‘polish’ which can make even the easiest climb seem treacherous.

Dave on the exposed top pitch of Never on a Sunday
Dave on the exposed top pitch of Never on a Sunday

Dave and Chris started on an HS called Never on a Sunday. This takes a striking line up the face with the final pitch being very photogenic. By all accounts the exposure on this pitch is equally dramatic. And then of course Inkerman Groove, a must. Both Chris and Dave were raving by the end; quite understandably because it is an outstanding climb with one of the most memorable traverses you’ll find.

Top pitch of Never on a Sunday a tough HS
Top pitch of Never on a Sunday a tough HS

For me, climb 2 was The Slot. Nicks smile should have given away what the Slot would deliver. My smile was firmly absent whilst I tried to work out how to move up into ‘the slot’. Having got there things didnt get easier. The main crack is seriously hard work, but the higher you go the less strenuous it becomes. I was really pleased to get this one as it was a tough.

The best though was saved till last. Sarcophagus is a fantastic journey up a corner with truly three dimensional climbing. According to all that you read it is a nightmare of polish but this is only part of the story. Yes the opening moves are tense and Nick had to take care with pro and the moves over very polished foot placements. But once past this you get so absorbed in the climbing through grooves and overhangs that both of us agreed you become oblivious to any wear. I thought it was engrossing and in the end over too quickly. Even the top pitch (Nick ran the bottom two together which made a lot of sense) finishes off the climb nicely leaving lts of smiles.

A comfy seat on Sarcophagus
A comfy seat on Sarcophagus

A pint of local ale on the way back topped off a great day out although probably we would have been wiser to drink water not alcohol. But where’s the fun in that!

 

What a difference a day makes…

Bosigran

12th April 2013

Flat Top – HS 4b – Lead
Crazy Man Michael – VS 4c – Second
Little Brown Jug (Variation Start P1) – HVS/VS 5a? – Lead
Thin Wall Special(P2) – E1 5b/5a – Lead
Trapeze – HVS 5a – Second

I challenge you to read the title and not hum the tune in your head (or I’m a bit abi normal) I’m sat here looking out the window at drizzle, whereas yesterday at Bosi we were treated to Sunshine and a glorious day.

It was a strange day actually for me. Five climbs in my logbook, but in reality it was three. This was on account of a mix and match approach to our routes. Having walked away from Sinistra which looked more like a waterfall, we started on Flat Top, a really nice HS with some good moves getting past the overhang to the corner.

Me on Flat Top

As it happened overhangs played quite a part on this day. Joe’s lead on pitch two was Crazy Man Michael which starts with a … you’ve guessed it… a overhang. A lot tougher than Flat Top though. You never feel in balance and its strenuous. Having cleared this though the climbing continues up the exposed arete at a much more amenable level. It is well worth doing.

Joe about to set off on the tough opening moves of Crazy Man Michael
Joe high on CMM

Meanwhile the rest of the crew (Tom, Dave, Pete, Chris and Nick who made the long journey down from the wilds of Dartmoor) were on their own routes. Chris and Nick on the by all accounts very good Venusberg and the others on the classic Andrew. A climb I have fond memories of as it was my first multi pitch route with Bart. The step out from the ledge onto the slab is always tense because you never quite feel settled. A good lead from Dave on this one. Venusberg is definitely on my list for next time out.

Pete moving onto the delicate traverse on P2 Andrew

Having taken a closer look at Visions of Johanna, discretion finally got the better part of valour and I opted for a try on Little Brown Jug’s variation start in order to get to P2 of Thin Wall Special. Originally we had planned this for a threesome, but it made sense for Nick and Chris to get on a route instead of hanging around so they went off to do the brilliant Paragon.

LBJ P1

The overhang start (there it is again) seemed OK to me, but the next move is very tin if you continue on a direct line. A bridging move right opens up the good holds higher up and then the climbing is fun right up to the belay ledge of Doorway/Thin Wall Special. Joe kindly deferred this one to me as I had wanted to lead TWS and the top pitch looked wild.

It didnt disappoint. The corner of Doorway is good climbing in its own right and when you get to the roof it seems a bit improbable that it goes at 5a. A move up into the niche gives a chance for a breather and then its stepping out under yet another overhang and aiming for the gap. I found it really scary and although the holds are quite positive you need to shape yourself to get across to the finishing jugs. I just made it but hanging off the final jug dangling 150ft up is amazing.

Joe through the crux on Trapeze

Joe had to go one better by cutting loose with his feet, but his grin gave away how much he enjoyed himself, even if he looked thoroughly knackered.

Dave on Flat Top

Back at the bags with Nick and Chris still on Paragon and Dave leading Flat Top we decided on a last route so Joe had a go on the fierce but short Trapeze. Its all packed into two crux’s, but with the big No 4 Camelot on board Joe could protect the top offwidth crack. I like the route, but I imagine Pete doesnt having given it his best but on this occasion been defeated. I know the feeling well. Another day then.

As usual 7 hours passed like 7 minutes and we were late returning, but it was the culmination of another great adventure on the Cornish Coast and we have many more planned.

It’s raining frogs and fruitbats

8th March 2013

Trewellard – Goldsworthy Buttress

Return of the Lemming – VS 4c – Lead
Bright Morning – V Diff – Lead (P2)
Sea Fever – Diff/Severe 4b – Second

Trewellard was looking a little different from the last time Dave and I climbed here. On that day the wind was about 40mph and it was pretty grey. This time, sunshine and good conditions.

View towards Bible Wall

That said, it is not the most attractive of venues unless you like industrial backdrops of broken ground, churned earth and arsenic. Yes arsenic, something worth keeping in mind – if it’s green dont touch it, lick it or dip your lunch in it cos it’ll probably kill you!

Belay Platform – Wide Ledge

A number of places show the vivid green streaks seeping out of the cliffs, but Goldsworthy isnt one of them. On this day it was relatively dry and we stuck to the buttress climbs and not the zawn which did look damp. One for another day as there are some cracking looking climbs there.

Pete styling on ROTL

ROTL looks a bit like a cliff which is rotting in front of your eyes. Similar to Coastguard Cliffs actually. The first pitch looks bold and pro (at least good pro) is difficult to find. I’m not sure I would have wanted to fall on half the gear I placed and there is a run out section in the middle. But, it is laced with small foot placements and little sharp edged holds. They look brittle but I found then solid and none snapped on me.

Chris leading P1 ROTL

All the above taken into account, the first pitch is great. Balancy, technical and just good fun. The other two match up well. Pitch two’s overhang is committing but well protected and Pitch 3 has a hard start and a camera friendly finish.

Top Pitch of ROTL

It was getting late when we all finished, but we had enough time to get another climb in. Chris and Tom went for Bright Morning, a climb Dave had led earlier. A difficult V Diff is the best way to describe it. Probably more towards Severe actually. Dave took Joe and myself for a wander onto the seaward face of the buttress where booming surf greeted us and a very wet chimney on Double Take.

Booming Surf below the belay on Sea Fever/Double Take

Dave wisely left this alone but contrived a new line between the Diff of Sea Fever and Double Take which was probably at around Severe 4b. A tricky mantel into a sparsely protected groove made for a good pitch. Well done to Dave for climbing this blind effectively. Maybe its worth listing as a new route.

Dave new routing

I finished on the second pitch of Bright Morning, an excellent pitch in its own right. Meanwhile Joe went off soloing the arete, probably looking for something hard to get stuck into.

P2 of Bright Morning

We were greeted by persistent rain as we packed up (perfect timing) which made the journey back interesting with strange animals flying past the van and the road littered with suicidal frogs.

View back to Pendeen

Cant wait to get back a do the traverse Chain Link in the zawn. looks scary and classic!

 

 

Days of the week.

22nd February 2013

Sennen
Sunday and Monday Face

Dexter – VS 4c – Second
Slim – VS 5a – Lead
Vertical Crack – VS 4c – Second

OK. The thin snow drifting around when we arrived gave a clue to the days conditions. Cold. And i therefore offered myself some advice. Stick to climbs with big holds and stay away from finger routes.

Looking across Monday Face with Dave on CWD.

It’s a shame I cant follow my own logic then. But over confidence will do that to you forcing a disregard for the blindingly obvious. Your hands are going to get cold!

Tom leading the tough bottom crack of Church Window Direct

Tom and Dave kicked things off with an attempt on Church Window, Tom preferring the direct and harder start to the traditional flop onto the high shelf. For an initial pitch it is a pumpy start, but Tom made good work of it, finishing via the corner in the alter niche.

Chis hangin.. on Dexter

Meanwhile Chris was leading the tricky and exposed Dexter. This route is all about the top traverse and finish. Moving off the pinnacle at the top of the crack you’re faced with a swing out onto the main face using the rising flake as a rail. It feels very bold, but not as bold as the step up at the end. That’s special. All in all a great lead by Chris in the conditions.

Pete on Dexter.

Pete found it difficult, but to his credit he stuck at it and made it through. I also found it exposed. The conditions meant your hands felt cold and it was difficult to trust your grip at times.

Chris about to go for the top move on Dexter.

Which is why it was all the more surprising that I chose a tasty finger crack  Slim for my lead… which proceeded to remind me that I was not as good as I thought I was. More of a mental state though, than a lack of physical ability. Four attempts later I finally cleared the early 5a move and the remainder of the climb was stright forward. Looks like I’ll have to come back and repeat this one.

Dave on the top cracks of CDW… just after taking to the air.

Both Dave and Chris lead vertical crack on this day. It’s been upgraded now to VS which is understandable so Dave has now bagged a VS which is brilliant going for so early in the year. It is well protected so it helps to settle the nerves, but is still technically a challenge.

Tom on CWD.

The same can be said for the top section of Church Window Direct, although Dave decided to put in some air time after peeling off on the tough top moves. CWD is one of my favorite climbs at Sennen. I want to give it another go next time we’re back.

Dave looking relaxed on CWD. He shouldnt have been???

Hopefully things will now warm up for the rest of the year. I’m definitely looking forward to summer.

Seal Dogging

8th February 2013

Carn Barra (Carn Barra)

Super Crack – VS 4c – Lead
Angel City – Severe 4b – Lead

It had been a few weeks since our little band of climbers had been out on the cliffs so to say we were a bit excitable was an understatement. Choice of venue came down to getting out of the northerly wind and the midday high tide – Carn Barra fitted the bill and the Upper Tier was an area we hadnt yet explored. Turned out to be a good decision.

The Cornish Sea Cliffs are just starting to come alive with spring. Lots of new green shoots, a bye product of all this rain. Even the Seals were getting amorous in the surf below us.

The Upper Tier at Carn Barra is reminiscent of Bosi. Perched above the main area it doesnt take long before ou get a real sense of height and exposure. Its a bit gritty, probably from lack of climbers and you have to be wary of brittle holds in places, but on the whole its top stuff.

Dave sets the belay scene.

Tom and Chris were the first to do battle. Tom on the excellent Chicken Head Crack, a V Diff which travels up to the right of Great Central Chimney and Chris on Super Crack, the aptly named route to the left of GCC.

Super Crack was a real surprise. The first pitch looked a bit disjointed but turned out to be really tricky. Fingery wall climbing becomes a groove/crack which is difficult to get established in. Some testing moves here leads to a ledge below the start of the second pitch.

Pete entering the tricky groove/crack on pitch one of Super Crack

From here you get a grandstand view of the top crack which is as good as it looks. I found it tough, but with a two month layoff  this shouldnt have been unexpected. Really sustained and exposed. It’s just brilliant. Pete found it a good early season test as well, a proper bicep buster, especially negotiating the early overhang.

Tom and Dave made short work of their route, a statement of intent for the rest of the year I think with both of them leading confidently. Thats why they went looking for something a bit more challenging and ended up on Taurus the Second. Despite snapping holds and a run out at the top of the tower, they both seemed to enjoy this one. One I now have marked down for the future.

Tom at the top of Chicken Head Crack

Chris, Pete and I randomly chose Angel City, mainly cos we were a bit cold. Turned out to be the right choice. I led the first pitch in what was a reversal of SC. The first pitch would be very bold for a Severe if led as per the guide. There is a dirty crack on the left but more importantly the face is fingery and difficult. I used the corner to balance things out and it felt more reasonable.

Pitch two was the main event though. The huge Sharks Fin of rock dominates the face, but the route actually follows the crack leading right up the wall. However its hard to ignore the lump of rock when you’re on the route as its so tempting to climb. As a belayer its hard to ignore the fact you are stood underneath a mass of rock that has no right to still be attached to the cliff. It looks completely undercut and precarious. So Pete and I moved the belay around the corner like the cowards we are. At least Chris would be on top of the block if it came off.

Chris testing out the fin on Angel City

As the sun set we wandered away feeling pleased with ourselves. A good start to 2013 and the discovery of a venue we’ll be back at shortly.

Three Tiers for Porthguarnon

4th October 2012

Porthguarnon

Iron Bells – HS 4b – Lead
Sloe Slab – V Diff – Lead
Porcupine – VS 4c – Lead

Parking is a bit of a problem here although on this day we were lucky enough to be able to park on the campsite. Otherwise its a short walk from Penberth. I doubt that there is a lot in it really.

Our gearing up ledge after a thorny arrival

 

Pete and I rolled up not really knowing what to expect. I know that when you look at the crag it seems broken and disjointed, but after a couple of attempts we successfully managed to access the base of the cliffs via a very thorny and overgrown path. The next task was to get across to the main climbing area which is done by a series of traverses, a couple of which are quite airy, so you may want to rope up.

The bottom of Iron Bells

We started on Iron Bells, a climb very reminiscent of Anvil Chorus’s second pitch. In fact the crack is thinner, but its not as steep. However it’s a great pitch and loads of fun, especially the overhang which is taken directly on really positive holds. The granite feels grippy, probably a reflection of how little climbing this venue has seen over the years.

Eying up the squeeze on Sloe Slab

Pete and I were then faced with the next problem.To get back down to the lower tier involved some serious jungle bashing which we didnt fancy, so instead we decided to just keep going up. A great choice in fact as Sloe Slab turned out to be loads of fun. One for the rest of the group to have a go at and see if anyone can make the exit through the gap look elegant. Me and Pete failed big time.

Pete demonstrates the slug move

With the weather taking a turn for the worse (the sun had now disappeared and we were frozen) we launched for the top. Some poor route reading by me meant we did a sort of mixed route part of which at least was Porcupine, a VS. I had intended to tackle to enticing thin crack on the left of the upper slab, which would have been HVS but cold hands and impending hypothermia made me decide to just get up there as fast as I could.

Pete on the upper tier (Porcupine?)

 

So all in all a great venue. Each tier has a number of options all in the V Diff to HVS range and it should be a good return next week when we come back mob handed with a stay on Trevervan camp site thrown in.