The Armchair – HVS 5a – Lead Doorpost – HS 4b – Second
Pete, bless his cotton socks , had to be on his toe’s as I took to the air on Armchair. A silly mistake really. I missed the wet patch on what is a fairly polished route anyway. The result was unexpected flight time.
Ian on The Armchair
The start of Armchair is a real mental exercise. Ten years ago maybe the edges were a bit sharper and positive, but on this day everything seemed rounded and smooth. As it happened I negotiated the harder stuff and then fell off once things eased off. This though doesnt detract from the fact The Armchair is a top climb. It just get better and better the higher you go. Lots of tough exposed moves up the ramp add up to an exhilerating experience. One of my favorites.
Chris on the crux of P1 Paragon
Chris and Joe meanwhile tackled Zig Zag and Dave and Tom Doorpost. Because Pete and I took a little longer ( I had to strip some gear) by time we had finished lunch Chris and Joe has started off on Paragon. Shame they didnt take the guidebook, because they got lost on pitch three, missing the offwidth and ending up on Nameless. A lesson learned really in making sure a guide book is to hand on multi pitch routes. Still it means Chris and Joe have a target for the next time they go to Bosi.
Tom leading P1 Doorpost
I finished on Doorpost with Tom and Dave. Tom got his first experience of a Hard Severe on the lead. The big difference for him was placing gear on what is a tough traverse. Not sure Bosi had even heard of some of the language he used but Tom got there in the end for his first HS tick. Dave set off on P2. His confidence is brimming at the moment and it showed as he negotiated the crux move through the twin cracks on what must be one of the most exposed sections of bosi. Doorpost is remarkable in the exposure it delivers at the grade. Lots of adrenaline then.
The view down P2 Doorpost
So next time back at Bosi its going to be a full ascent of Paragon. Bring it on!
Sinister – VS 4c – Lead Pilgrims – HVS 4c – Second
View toward Carn Barra
The scramble onto Fox Promontory is almost as much fun as the climbing. It’s definitely a good warm up as you move along the narrow ridge to the far nose. Once again you are enveloped in the ruggedness and beauty of Cornwalls coast. The view out towards Carn Barra opens up with miles of Granite climbing on display.
A busy ab point
A few of us (6 to be exact) made our way here with the thought that when it heated up, which it was going to on this day, Fox would be fairly cool being a more north facing venue. Strange how durig the cooler months you look for warm venues and then as soon as it gets hot, the search is on for shady spots.
The ab in
Finding the ab point caused us the usual problems, but most of the edges are steep and we managed not to destroy Pete’s new rope in the process. We started again on the seaward nose with Joe and Pete on the Muzzle, me and Tom on Sinister and Chris and Dave having another go at the guano infested hairy monster that is the Whisker.
Pulling up into the groove of Sinister
The latter is given stars in the guide, but it would seem lack of traffic and nesting birds make what should be a great climb a little unpleasant in places. Still, Chris and Dave completed it this time, finishing up a tough and very dirty crack. No push over this one by all accounts.
Scouting out Pilgrims
Tom and I struggled to follow the described guidebook route, possibly because some of Sinister has fallen down. Either that or we were way of route. The mantleshelf described didnt appear to be there, but the moves around the corner and up over the flake are really good fun.
A busy belay as well
Fox Promontory is a stunning venue. Very secluded and a very different place when sunny to when its dark and grey. On this day it was brilliant, with water so clear that the seal watching us for most of the day could be seen in its entirety. Mind blowing.
Joe had been gunning for something with a bite all day and a venture up Pilgrim ticked all the boxes. After a short tantrum from me about not starting in the only damp niche on the south coast on this day, we set off up the bottom pitch of Mistaken Identity which links more obviously with the top pitch of Pilgrims. As a complete route it works well, but doesnt make the top pitch any easier. Joe did a brilliant job leading this one. Gear is OK but the balancey nature of the climb makes placing it difficult. Lots of small crimpy holds, careful footwork makes for a top route.
Joe on the top belay of Pilgrims
Dave and Chris were on Sunshine cracks, by all accounts a slightly run out HS with some tough moves and Tom found his usual degenerating pile of choss called Foxblood which led to Pete ageing a few years prematurely as Tom ran it out.
Once again, completely knackered we trudged back to Porthgwarra. For Tom myself and Joe it would be more of the same the following day as we were staying at Treen for the BMC meet.
Socket Wall – Severe 4b – Lead Crack in the Sky – E1 5b – Lead Exodus – VS 5a – Lead
Carn Barra was our second choice of venue, from the ‘cant make a decision crew’ in the van (Tom, Dave, Chris and Pete) but as it turned out it was the right one. With a quickly dropping tide and a small swell the main platform of CB was dry and we had access to some classic routes.
Socket Wall
Socket Wall was dry and we paired up to tackle two quite tough routes, Socket Wall and Cumbelloe. Both have physical starts and although the pro is decent neither are pushovers at the grade. They turned out to be good warm up routes for what was to come.
Chris moving up Cumbeloe HS 4b
The main event for me was an attempt at Crack in the Sky. I’d been meaning to have a go at another E1 and this was a route I’d had my eye on for some time. A difficult corner leads to a ledge and then comes the strenuous stuff. At first you cant see the holds, but once you’ve committed up onto the face the holds are there.
Pete finds the wobbly chock stoneThank god for arm bars!
When you reach the crack the jamming starts. Arm bars and fist jams help and there are some hidden edges in the crack but ultimately it is a power struggle and you need to keep going and use your feet as much as possible. I just made it with nothing left in the tank and a real sick feeling from the adrenaline rush. Amazing! One of the best climbs I’ve ever done just because of the effort it took to get to the top. Pete, after a little hesitation got stuck into CITS. The look on his face and Chris’s for that matter rivalled my own when they topped out. That top crack is great, matched equally by their smiles.
Pete fighting with the upper crack on Crack in the Sky
Meanwhile Dave and Tom were knocking off a few routes of their own. Peel Crack and Sleazy Corner to be precise. Two good V Diffs, especially Peel Crack which is atmospheric in its upper section. Both of them are growing in confidence each trip out.
Dave and Tom on Sleazy Corner a hard Difficult or V Diff in other words
A well earned lunch left just enough time for a quick assault on Axis and Exodus two VS’s on the higher Eastern platform. I went for Exodus which takes a line similar to Axis but branches off rightwards along a horizontal break. The traverse is great fun but there is a really tricky move up into the steep niche/crack and then another to reach the steeper ground. But its a really good climb as long as you avoid the rope drag and keep in touch with your belayer. Tom did a good job listening out for my jittery shouts, especially when my left hand cramped up due to a distinct lack of salt in my system.
Tom belaying on the Axis ledge
This whole event was capped off when Dave came up on his own because of time. Tom shimmied up Axis and Dave kept asking me to take in on blue. Typical of Sea cliffs, comms are not easy with the roar of the sea and wind. This would explain Daves suprise when I gleefully informed him that he was only on Yellow so what was the point of taking in Blue. Fortunately Dave had tied in on yellow and was past the unprotected traverse by then (all the pro was on blue). He would’nt have decked, but the swing would have been a long one!
God I love climbing.
The point where Axis and Exodus part company
Tom belaying on the Axis ledge
Socket Wall
Ian starting up Socket Wall
The first pumpy moves on Socket Wall
Chris moving up Cumbeloe HS 4b
The tricky middle section of Cumbeloe
Dave topping out on Socket Wall
The abb in
Ian on the opening corner of Crack in the Sky
Thank god for arm bars!
So pumped I was nearly sick
Pete finds the wobbly chock stone
Pete fighting with the upper crack on Crack in the Sky
Dave and Tom on Sleazy Corner a hard Difficult or V Diff in other words
Gravity Slab – VS 4c – Lead Green Streaks – VS 4c – Lead Loose Limpet Crack – HS 4b – Second
Just incredible
So it was back to Tregiffian. Such an incredible place and so much climbing was irresistable. This time we had Pete and Chris in tow, so it was their turn to experience the thorn jungle approach. In fact the whole walk in on this day was pretty arduous. Really hot and with the recent rain the nettles, brambles and hawthorn seemed to have exploded.
The boulder cave entrance
So once there we did the obvious and jumped in the sea (which was still hypothermic). What a brilliant place to swim. There is a natural swimming pool there and with the sun and turquise water it was like being in the mediterranean without the warmth. Tom’s reference to the whole experience being slightly Brokeback Mountain didnt phase anyone, although Tom’s posing on a boulder was slightly dubious.
Ian about to set off on the amazing but bold Gravity SlabPete on the crux of Gravity Slab
My first route of the day was gravity slab. Tregiffian has the habit of serving up a variety of good climbs at VS and GS didnt disappoint. Completely different to Acid Test, GS is mostly about one move. But it is bold, both in the lower section and on the crux. The crux is a mantleshelf, out wide from your last piece of gear (which is bomber) so it feels very exposed. Also it’s not easy, making you rely on small crimps and smears to get you over the top. It scared me, but that’s what it is about really. Just the start Chris, Pete and I needed.
Dave finishing off Exit at Tregiffian
Meanwhile Dave and Tom were working their way up Exit so we all met back at the top of the crag. After descending back down we were alittle trapped by the tide. There was no swell but the pool below Loose Limpet Crack was still a bit deep so we went for Green Streak.
Pete on the first and tough pitch of Green StreakIan negotiating the slime on Green Streak's second pitch
OK, so this one doesnt look too bad from the bottom but once again it is a real fight. The finger crack is strenuous and difficult to read. The crux move takes some working out on the first pitch, and pro is hard to place. When Chris followed later most of his gear ended up in the rock pool below, but he just wanted an epic – which he got. Pete though made it look easy a good indication of how his climbing is coming on this year.
Suprisingly the second pitch which goes through slimy green rock and a waterfall is great fun. After the strain of the first it adds some fun and I loved it. Even when the water started traveling down my belay setup it just provided a bit of cooling.
Chris getting balanced on Acid Test
Whilst I was on Green Streak, Chris was working his way up Acid Test. Talking to him later he had the same ordeal I did, needing to work out how to tackle the crack. Still the climb of the crag in my opinion.
Cooling my feetDave styling on Loose Limpet Crack
Dave had been eyeing up the main face and a great looking V Diff called Loose Limpet Crack. Harder than anything else Dave has done, this was a proper challenge. It involves two transfers from one crack to another, the first being the crux. Dave cruised through it, providing a fitting end to what was a fantastic day.
Tom high on Loose Limpet Crack
What I find startling is that having done so many top climbs here, there still seems to be loads more. I’m sure we’ll be back soon, hopefully before the end of the summer for another swim.
The Scillonian cruising by.
The boulder cave entrance
Ian about to set off on the amazing but bold Gravity Slab
Pete on the crux of Gravity Slab
Chris soloing high up on the main face
Pete goes bold… or does he?
Dave finishing off Exit at Tregiffian
Waiting for the tide to drop back
Chris getting balanced on Acid Test
Belay ledge on Green Streak
Ian negotiating the slime on Green Streak’s second pitch
Pete on the first and tough pitch of Green Streak
Dave styling on Loose Limpet Crack
Cooling my feet
Dave on the final transition to the awkward finishing crack.
Anvil Chorus – VS 4c – Alt Lead Alison Rib – Diff – Second
It was so bloody cold when we arrived. Dark and windy and not inviting at all. Bosigran had seemed the best shout for this day but it didnt look that way at first.
Belay view from P3 Anvil Chorus
Pete had brought along his new rack and I was giving Anvil Chorus the once over. With the corner of Ac looking like it might be the most sheltered spot we went for this first. I had always wanted to lead the third corner pitch ever since seconding it with Nick so this gave me the opportunity.
Pete on the first pitch of Anvil Chorus
It’s easy to forget how good a climb is until you get back on it. AC is not just about one pitch, although the 3rd is the most spectacular. All four have something to offer. Pitch one, two short slabs, can be tricky but it got me nicely warmed up.
Pitch 2 Anvil Chorus
Pitch two passes an overhang with a very airy move, requiring Chris to step out onto a poorly protected arete and a final push onto a large slab. By this point the sun was out and Bosi had transformed into acres of warm granite taking the chill off the day. So the corner pitch was done in sunshine, making the crack a lot more amenable. It’s strenuous in places but well protected; towards the top you need to push on to a brilliant rest point. A fantastic traverse to an atmospheric mantelshelf follows.
Pete on the third pitch of Anvil Chorus.
For me this was the crux, especially when my foot slipped and I almost whipped off. It made for a rather panic stricken udge onto the ledge. A shame really because 30 minutes later I did the same move again after retrieving a nut, but this time with more style.
Chilled walk back after AC
The final pitch was made harder for Chris because he completely ignored the obvious left hand crack. As a result he used a hard layback move off the arete to get established, making it a much more scary venture altogether.
After our exertions on AC it was Pete’s turn. With a new rope, new lead rack and me and Chris badgering him, he set off for his first lead up Alison Rib. It’s a great climb to make a first ascent on. Pete got good gear in and looked like he thoroughly enjoyed himself.
Pete on his first lead on Alison RibIan on Alison Rib
He even managed to find the top after some guidance from Chris.
I wonder if this will hold. Oh well its only Ian....
So no longer a lead virgin, Pete, Chris and I headed home. It’s amazing how 9 hours just flies by when you’re having so much fun.
Pete on the first pitch of Anvil Chorus
I wonder if this will hold. Oh well its only Ian….
Ian on Alison Rib
Belay this way?
Pete on his first lead on Alison Rib
Pete on Alison Rib, placing gear for the first time.
Nothing Much – HVS 5a – Lead Friends – VS 5a – Lead Wrist Climb – V Diff Economists Route – V Diff
The aim was to have a go at a set of 3 HVS’s at Pordenack, but the reality was that two is enough to fill you up. Or at least in my case it is.
I tend to think that the routes at Pordenack are in general quite hard for the grade and Nothing Much and Friends proved no exception to that theory. Chris’s assessment of Wrist climb would back that up, with the final traverse and crack being a real challenge for a V Diff leader. Even Economists climb, which Tom and Dave doubled up on for their first alternate lead, is bold in places if not technically difficult.
Ian actually chimneying. A rare sight.The tough sequence on Nothing Much
We paired up with Chris and Pete on Wrist Climb and me, Dave and Tom on Nothing Much. NM is actually a bit more than nothing. All the difficulty is below the crux, but in damp conditions it felt quite hard and the crux move is exposed and committing. The moves are good though, and getting through the niche is challenging culminating in a less than secure pull up around the obvious flake.
Soaking up the sunshine
Instead of finishing off the second pitch which we had done before, we scrambled back to the gearing up ledge, a pretty exhilarating route in its own right, traversing across the top of all the climbs with lots of airy drops around.
Group Climbing!
Then it was on to friends. In theory an easier climb, but in reality a strenuous and relentless climb once you’ve committed to the main crack. I had a real struggle with this having to work hard throughout and eventually succombing to the pump when I managed to create a really weird nut, Krab and rope knot which I couldnt undo.
Ian wrestling with his nuts....
To be fair I was on my limit then, so this just ensured I didnt make the onsite, but I was only a few moves from the top.
Chris in the upper niche on FriendsChris on the exposed top moves of Friends
Chris kindly then showed me how to do the top, wild moves finishing off what I had started. Its a brilliant climb, one of the best I’ve done and I’ll be back to clean it. Pete, who had been eyeing the climb up nervously, overcame any uncertainty and gave it everything, making a fantastic job of seconding Chris. Probably the hardest climb Pete’s done so far, so hats off! I made it up on the second, so its just a case of finishing the lead.
Tom and Dave on Economists RouteTom leading the first and relatively bold pitch of Economists Route
Meanwhile Dave and Tom were on Economists Route. Not technically the most difficult, but bold in places. For their first alternate multipitch lead it was a good choice. It’s easy to forget how challenging Sea Cliffs are at whatever grade so this was a real achievement and I’m sure opens the door to many more ascents.
Finally we all spent some time on Vietnamerica, an E1 with a tricky start, especially now the wedged boulders have fallen down. Its good practice on a climb with thin holds and balancy moves.
Dave high on Vietnamerica
What a cracking day. Hopefully the forerunner to many more this summer. I need to keep working on my stamina. It’ll come, back only with a bit more hard climbing.
Dave high on Vietnamerica
Pete having cleared the tough overhang on Friends
Chris on the exposed top moves of Friends
Chris in the upper niche on Friends
Chris getting established in the initial crack of Friends
The tricky initial move into the crack on Friends
Dave moving up the first pitch of Economists Route
Ian heading up the damp lower corner of Nothing Much
Ian wrestling with his nuts….
The sustained middle section of Friends
Tom leading the first and relatively bold pitch of Economists Route
The bloody BBC weather site has been shocking recently. I dont know whats going on, but they used to be pretty accurate and now they are way off the mark. Today was meant to be bright, with light Westerly winds. Drizzly with gusty Southerly winds is what we got.
Abseil ledge above the Southern Platform
To be fair the drizzle didnt last long, but the wind direction meant another abortive attempt on Fox Promontory. Carn Barra was a lot more sheltered and Niche Wall was an obvious choice for me.
Tom negotiating the tough groove on Niche Wall
For a Hard Severe, Niche Wall is quite intimidating. I didnt help that the 8ft swell had soaked the lower section, which was not easy to protect. The guide book seemed to suggest tracking rightwards, where the holds seemed better, but they also seemed wetter.
Me on Niche Wall
I trended left and found pro tricky to place and not as re assuring as it could have been. That said, as soon as I hit the ledge the rock became drier and the whole nature of the climb changed. From here on it was great varied climbing, with a little sting in the tail if you finished more directly, which I did.
Rope Management?????
Top climb really and Pete and Tom seemed to concur, even if Pete managed to leave one of my cams in place so that I could have another go at climbing it.
Clearing the hard lower cracks on DialecticPete digging into his energy reserves
We moved back to the gearing up ledge tyo the sound of thumping waves. With the tide pushing hard, only the Dialectic platform was out of range so Tom and Pete had a go at Dialectic. This had the desired effect as it raised the difficulty level substantially and introduced them to the steeper elements of Carn Barra.
Pete pushing on DialecticTom on Dialectic
Both made it up, Tom cleaning it first attempt. Pete had the added thrill of exploding surf which was sending spray up to the height of his head. Considering he was over half way up the climb this was impressive!
Pete thanks Tom for his encouragement
The rugged and intimidating atmosphere of the Cornish coast made this a memorable day and reminded me of the power of the ocean. The many faces of Cornish sea cliffs had shown us another mood. Brilliant.
Rosemergy Towers Flash Back – Severe 4a – Top Rope Go Shorty – E2 5C – Top Rope
This was a bit of a team outing and a chance to go through a few of the basics of setting up a belay and abseiling. Rosemergy was deserted as it often is, so we had carte blanche to set up a couple of top ropes on the main face and Go Shorty, the tough E2 on the right.
Team Rosemergy
Flash Back is a climb in its own right, with a chimney start and then slab and crack climbing up the centre of the central slab. However it also provides a lead into a number of other variations on the arete and right hand slab. The biggest advantage of this is that it gave everyone a chance to climb on a bit of everything and practice their technique’s.
Pete coming out of the chimney - Flash BackDave, high on Flash Back
Now ‘Go Shorty’ was a different proposition. From down slope it looks almost as though it is about a 45 degree angle, but once on it you realise this is just your eyesight playing tricks. This gave a chance to test out just how well we were all coming along after a winter of indoor climbing. As it happens, not badly at all…
Tony working hard - Go Shorty
It is a climb with two crux sections, but is tricky right through with a succession of 5b moves leading to a final move for the top which is given 5c but I think is probably harder. Either that or my fingers are very weak.
Dave working through the perplexing lower moves - Go ShortyCrimping on the top move - Go ShortyIt's not much, but its all there is.. - Go Shorty
Best of all it gave everyone a taste of what hard outdoor climbing is like and everyone duly donated blood to the cause. The granite here is very crystaline and some bits are like razor blades. Pete and Tom particularly felt generous on this day and all we needed was St Johns Ambulance here to complete the process.
Chilling between climbs
We all spent time falling off, but maybe that’s the advantage of spending time on a hard climb. It gives you an idea of where you are and what you need to improve. By the end of the day we were all knackered, but how lucky were we! Sunshine all day, a bit blowy, but ultimately a perfect day out on the rock.
Crimping on the top move – Go Shorty
Relieved! – Go Shorty
It’s not much, but its all there is.. – Go Shorty
Dave working through the perplexing lower moves – Go Shorty
The plan was good, but the weather was not going to play the game. Nick, myself and Pete had hoped to meet up at The Dewerstone for an afternoon climbing and the forecast was good all week. However, and unusually BBC got this one wrong.
At the base of Vala
The Dewerstone in the rain is how I always imagine the woods. Damp and full of mystery and shadows. In reality its not really like that at all. The Dewerstone is beautiful and exciting and rather than forebidding, the woods seem bright and alive. Its probably because of the river Dart which runs right through it and provides a constant centrepiece.
Everywhere seemed soaked when we arrived, but a few bursts of sunshine miraculously dried off the buttress face and by time I geared up and started climbing the conditions were fine on Vala. It didnt last though, with a few showers falling during my ascent to make it that bit more challenging.
Spot the crag
Vla doesnt really need to be more cahallenging though. Straight forward to begin with, it grows in intensity. As you move left through the overlaps using a series of undercuts and side pulls, you find yourself with a final exposed move up through the top overhang. This is what everything leads up to and I managed to scare Pete half to death when I plucked up courage and just went for it.
For Pete this was a step up in intensity. By far the toughest climb he has seconded with me. The heavy rain shower that greeted him half way up did little to settle his nerves, but to give credit where it’s due Pete battled on and went for the crux with gusto.
By time we abbed off the weather had decided enough was enough and killed any more chance of climbing. Walking out watching the climbing club fighting the elements we could only pat ourselves on the back for finding a little window to bag a cracking climb.
4th August 2011 The Lizard – Coastguard Cliff – The Holywood Walls Limelight – HVS 5a – Lead
Weather plays a huge part in life in Cornwall. We are very much at the mercy of Atlantic weather fronts and on occasions like today you can only hope that the squalls and showers miss you.
Coastguard Cliff was probably not the best place to go on a day when it was grey and windy, but I’d had my eye on an HVS called Limelight for a while. The top of the cliffs were blowy but after dropping down onto the gearing up ledge things settled a bit and at the base it was actually sheltered. The descent route is a little intimidating, with a steep narrow ramp the main acess to the base of the cliffs. They are though essentially non tidal, so even with a roaring sea we were well above the sets.
For Joe, who hadnt been climbing outside for a while it was a real senses fest. Wind, noise from the sea, damp conditions and a tough HVS. Not for the faint hearted! However it was not the climb which took centre stage but the patch of sea below us which during the coarse of the day claimed two of my ‘Rocks’ (nearly a third but Pete rescued it) and my Rockfax climbing guide which slipped out of Pete’s pocket when he was partaking in acrobatics on the opening moves.
This brings me into the climb. It has a thuggy start with a pull up a diagonal rising crack to get established on the main face. It didnt help that part of the crack was wet and to be fair it is a bit scary as you haul yourself up. Still once through this I found things settled down and good climbing led to the upper groove. This is really the crux, not the bottom part as I had thought.
There is gear, but you leave it below you as you move through a really technical section. It is brilliant climbing; really testing and it makes you think your moves out carefully. Loved it. The final top wall is atmospheric and provides a suitable climax to what is a solid HVS.
Pete struggled with the opening moves and having lost the book I dont think his heart was in it. Joe tackled it with his usual gusto, although by his own admission it was a scary return to the rock. That didnt seem to wipe the smile off his face though.
As the rain came in and we called it a day we tried to get a cup of coffee. The local cafe at The Lizard turned out to have a scary women and we were not flavour of the month when we queue jumped and grabbed the only remaining table, so we retreated before things got ugly. Chips at Pete’s turned out to provide a suitable end to a good days climbing.
Why it never rains on a Friday!
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