Tag Archives: VS

The new improved moving belay….

April 6, 2015 dillwat Leave a comment

6th April 2015

Carn Barra

Weasle – VS 4c – Lead
Sea Fox – HS 4b – Second
Rapido – E1 5a – TR

When you anchor yourself in at the top of a climb the most reassuring aspect is the ‘imouveable’ feeling of the rock around you. There again, you can find yourself in among a heap of large fairly unstable boulders which you can re arrange to construct a sort of bespoke belay. “I think I’ll have a rock here” and “actually that boulder might be better at this angle”.

The stack above Rapido and Sea Fox was just this kind of jumble. Safe, but slightly disconserting when a 2 ton boulder moves around a bit.

My list above doesnt include two very steep routes which Joe and Tom spent the day on. Mean Street a hard E4 and Sunny Corner Lane and equally hard E3. Probably too much for me and Dave, but after their recent training regime, Tom and Joe tackled them with relish.

Dave and I went exploring down the South end of Carn Barra. I’d always intended to repeat Weasle and the distant memory of exposed commiting moves past the overhung corners soon came flooding back. This really is a totally underated route. For VS it is very good value, probably being nearer 5a and def close to HVS. The excellent pro probably makes it VS but dont let this fool you. It’s still scary…

So returning to the platform we set off on a fun sea level traverse with the small waves washing around our feet. A quick chimney above a rock pool led to a hidden area and Sea Fox. This follows two steep 90 degree corners, needing a fair amount of lay backing and trusting your feet. It is a bit crunchy at the top, but otherwise is a great climb. It probably needs more traffic to tidy it up.

Rapido - Follows the right hand arete — Rapido – Follows the right hand arete

Rapido is a technical E1. Not strenous or pumpy it has a couple of balancey moves around 5a. The reason it is given E1 is because the first pro of any value is at half height and although the flake provides placements I’m not sure I’d trust them. This is why we top roped it! It is one that I know I could lead fairly easily, but its one I never will (because I dont want to die). The slightly unreliable holds adds the final dimension to a good but lethal route.

Carn Barra continues to deliver. Maybe next time I’ll get on Illustrated Man and tick that one. Who knows.

Climbing

Everyone needs a boost

November 28, 2014 dillwat Leave a comment

28th November 2014

Sennen

Corner Crack – Severe 4b – Second
Monday Face – VS 4c – Lead

It was a bit of a disappointment really. The forecast had been suggesting all week that Friday would be dry and sunny, but although the sun did its best, the faces of the crags were sopping. It didnt stop the coast from shining in all its glory, but as regards climbing it would be a frustrating day.

Our first stop was Pentire. I had it in my mind that this would dry quickly on a day like this, but alas it was not the case. Both Rip Tide gulley and the main point were unclimbable so it was on to Sennen for what was a fall back location.

This continued the mood of the day with all the faces being in poor condition. When the rock is wet it does not inspire you to climb hard and I started to get a feeling that maybe we should pack up and go.

Tom however got us started with Corner Climb, probably the first route I ever climbed back with Bart and Tony. It sandbagged me then, but this time I had the better of it taking a slight deviation to finish on the bulge.

Tom and I mumbled about going to the pub, but it was Dave who had more determination on this day, eventually cajolling me into taking on another route. To be fair he was out to test his ankle and one route was not enough.

Monday face is a good route to do when its damp. Juggy and confidence promoting (despite the less than bombproof pro) it was a good finish to the day and set us all in a good mood for the return journey.

Equally inspiring was the amazing view towards longships, with a golden sun and battleship sea. Just amazing.

Climbing

Crock Fest

October 31, 2014 dillwat Leave a comment

31st October 2014
Carn Barra
Edge Street – VS 4c – Lead

This was a long awaited return for both Dave and Pete to the group, having spent the last weeks recouperating from ripped tendons/ligaments and a broken ankle respectively.

We spent a couple of hours checking out Black Carn North which shows loads of promise but was a bit exposed and damp on this day. We spotted three good routes and an E2 which looks tough but do-able.

Retreating to the upper cliffs of Carn Barra turned out to be a good call. A little less exposed and Edge Street was very worthwhile. A technical first pitch leads to a run out second. The arete is very bold if followed religously, but I veered off left to place some pro before returning for the final exposed moves.

Dave finished it off with a strenuous final pitch involving a a bouldery move to get established on the face. Tom and Pete meanwhile were engaged in a sort of jigsaw climb where they pieced together pitches from at least three routes into what looked like a reall good climb.

A fun and welcome return to climbing for all of us.

Climbing

Go on punk… Make my day

October 2, 2014 dillwat Leave a comment

2nd October 2014
Luckey Tor (aka Eagle Rock)

Ivy Wall – VS 4c – Lead (dnf)
Right Hand Chimney – V Diff – Second
Black Jam Crack – VS 4c – Lead

I returned to Luckey Tor full of confidence. It had been many years since Ivy Wall kicked my arse resulting in the biggest fall I’ve had to date. This time I knew it was my turn to get the glory.

After some iffy navigating on my part, we arrived at Dartmeet (the real one this time) and set off on the quite stunning walk in, down the bank of the Dart. Having had our lives affirmed thoroughly, we wandered into the clearing and shared the rest of the day with two ponies in the clearing.

So, onto Ivy Wall. It looked easier than last time, although I noticed that the convenient chockstone was missing. Still it wouldnt make any difference. Actually it didnt, cos I messed up completely and ended after an hours worth of frustration walking away in disgust.

The problem I have is that I’m not that flexible so squeezing into the niche was not enticing, so I went for the direct start which is pump and strenuous. It was a poor effort, brought on by over confidence. next time hopefully. Tom suffered a similar experience and so we went to the far side of the tor where we found a couple of classics.

Tom’s route was actually graded Diff, but I ca assure potential leaders that there are a couple of difficult moves, one with poor pro. Not Diff, but great climbing that makes you think a lot.

The jam fest of Black Jam Crack was also good. As usual I didnt make it look easy, but I did enjoy squeezing up and making a desperate lunge for the top. I made it… just.

And so ended another brilliant journey into Dartmoor. Must return here next summer and camp. A swim in the river beckons!

Climbing

Stakes are high

July 31, 2014 dillwat Leave a comment

31st July 2014

Carn Gowla

Supernatural – VS 4b – Second

Dave and I decided to grab a late climb at Gowla. Initially we’d thought about Silver Dollar, but with a brooding sky and the possibilty of rain we felt 2 pitches could be pushing it.

I knew how Dave would be feeling as we abbed in. The cliff here is intimidating and given the conditions it felt bang on for a Gowla epic. As it happened Dave thoroughly enjoyed the climbing after anervous start. The crack is way harder than 4b and its sustained in places. The whole venue pushes the route into HVS territory. A VS leader embarking on this one would have a rude awakening.

The loose top out provided the most nervous part as usual, but we couldnt help but realise we’d stolen a march on the weather to get this one in.

Climbing

The Aviators brought Low

July 15, 2014 dillwat Leave a comment

15th July 2014

Low Man (Haytor)

Aviation – E1 5b – Lead
Raven Wing – VS 4c – Second
Outward Bound _ HVS 4c – Lead

There was only one reason for Dave and my venture to the Devon Moors and that was to have a crack at Aviation, an iconic E1 and one which I’ve had on my wish list for a while.

The view of Raven Wing and Outward Bound behind Dave

But it was to be Outward Bound which provided the early entertainment, with the aspiring avaitors getting plenty of air time. You know Outward Bound is going to be powerful and pumpy, but as it did the first time I tried it, it caught me out. Maybe we should have warmed up on something less intimidating, but it provided plenty of fun. I kept getting stuck on the transition onto the main face and Dave decided the prow was a good rest point to sit on while he contemplated the next moves.

It’s easy to think OB is all about the powerful moves, but the upper wall is delicate and needs thoughful work on protection. All together its a good varied route and well worth doing (after warming up!).

Daves lead on Ravens Wing was equally adventurous. The move onto the arete is spicy and is followed by some lean climbing with sparse protection. One for a cool head and Dave did brilliantly to keep it all together and climb it with style. Definitely at the top of the grade for VS imo. Not technically hard but needs thought.

There were plenty of people around on Haytor, but we were left in splendid isolation for the most part. The flowers below Raven Gulley were obviously a memorial to a faller although it was hard to know who. The toy car left on the rock indicated it probably related to a child and made the whole scene very poignient and sad.

By this time Dave and I were pooped, but it was hard to ignore the amazing line of Aviation. So it was grab the ropes and ‘lets do it!’. My first attempt resulted in me being stopped in my tracks by the first move. After backing off and contemplating how to get through I decided to just push through, utilising a bit of powerful laybacking to negotiate the bulge. After this it was sustained and varied. Delicate traverse followed by a wide groove/crack where pro was spaced. Fantastic route and one to be firmly filed away in the ‘adventure’ drawer.

With the sun starting to go down,Dave and I left for the long drive back and me promising not to go to sleep….

Climbing

Yoga is good for you

July 14, 2014 dillwat Leave a comment

14th July 2014

Doyden Point

Caprice – VS 4c – Second
Lotus – E1 5b – Lead

Ever since I seconded Lotus with Nick 4 yrs ago I have wanted to return. One to lead the route and second to reclimb what is one of the most memeorable climbing experiences I’ve had.

Dave had a hankering to get on Caprice as well so we rocked up on the dull grey day to contemplate the awful abseil in. Its a choice between descending in amoungst loose rock or dropping over an edge into nothingness. Given that we didnt have the ab rope this meant using my old 10mm dynamic so it was nice and bouncey.

Doyden is both spectacular and scary/intimidating. Fortunately the surf was small, but there was a good wind going and the drizzle as we descended didnt bode well. However as the day progressed so did the weather; into a bright sunny day.

Dave thoroughly enjoyed Caprice, a tricky VS which traverses the lower face on mainly good rock. It has its moments though and can be intimidating in its middle section which needs a steady head. A good spike runner settles things for a while but the scoop in the centre of the face only provides mediocre pro.

Lotus is probably the single best E1 I’ve led along with Rock Idol. It can be broken down into two sections. The initial crack which is pumpy and tough going. Move fast or burn out. Followed by a traverse across really expose ‘out there’ territory. Both are amazing but the move onto the sloping shelf are particularly memorable. Just amazing.

With the tide pushing and the weather closing in Dave and I checked out Kellan Head which is well worth a visit, especially with this being such a dry year. One for our weekday evenings.

Climbing

Straight forwardly harrowing

July 11, 2014 dillwat Leave a comment

11th July 2014

Hippa Rock

Coitionary Tales – HVS 5 a – Lead
Virgo – VS 4c – Second

I always enjoy a trip to the Culm. This one was full of promise as we were heading for Oldwalls Point. In the end the descent defeated us with a mix of loose shale and thick gorse. As we dropt down the path became less distinct and more treacherous. In the end ignorance and uncertainty got the better of us and we decided to abandon this attempt and head for Hippa Rock instead which according to the guidebook was a straight forward scramble down the point.

Wrong!!! After eventually finding an indistinct path we came to a steep gulley full of loose manky rubble and looking like it was ready to fall down the same chute of a recent landslip. Every step was one of uncertainty and dread for me. I hate loose shit and this really was shit. From then on it was just one more pile of teetering rubble after another.

The climbs though were worth it ( I think). Coitionary Tales is a diagonal crack climb of top quality. Some very thoughtful moves greet the climber and it has a sting in the tale with the crux occurring in the final moves. I loved it.

Dave’s VS was no pushover either. The main body is solid 4c but if you finish it directly the top moves are solid with a very sketchy move onto a smooth slab. 5a+ IMO or harder if you miss the hidden holds. A good lead by Dave who put in some air time as a reward for his efforts.

The tide eventually drove us away and into the jaws of the walk out which was equally as unenjoyable as the walk in. Still it was a beautiful evening and you can’t complain too much when you have great adventure and this was yet another one.

Climbing

Falling on hard times

July 5, 2014 dillwat Leave a comment

5th July 2014

Rosemergy Towers

NC Madness – VS 4c – Lead
Go Shorty – E2 5c – Second (dnf)
Hard Times – E1 5c – Lead (dogged)
Boulder Problem – HVS 5b – Second

Where do you go when the BMC meet is on and most venues will have climbers galore. Rosemergy seemed a good bet although we were joined by another couple for a change.

Climbing

Block Party

May 16, 2014 dillwat Leave a comment

17th May 2014

Bashers Harbour

Footloose – VS 4c – Lead
The Flake – VS 4c – Lead (Dogged)
Mince Pie Problem – Diff – Solo

Everyones entitled to do something stupid once in a while. It helps if the consequences of that stupidity wont be fatal.

In hindsight and after reading an article on UKC titled ’10 ways to stay alive while climbing’ I wish I had done things differently. Maybe taken a bit more time thinking things through. The Flake turned out to be a bit of a nightmare really. A very hard (and wet) start with a nice 2ft square moving block finale. All of which added up to Tom not being able to second me because of the danger of the whole lot going. As dodgy as my abseil looked this was not really the danger point. It was backed up by two bomber nuts. The danger was the top blocks breaking loose while I was cleaning my gear and pulverising me.

Half of my rack was commited into the climb so the consequences of not retrieving it would be expensive. But gear is meant to save your life, not put it in danger. £200-£300 is a small amount in the scheme of things. Maybe next time I’ll just leave it and renew my rack.

View back to Dave and Chris on the initial buttress.

That adventure aside, the other climb we did was brilliant. Footlosse is balancy, edgy and technical. Pro is adequate but not abundent, but altogether it is a super climb. Setting up the belay can be tricky as Chris found out, having to down climb back to a safe spot. And its not comfortable, but its worth it.

As is all of Bashers Harbour. A lovely (if loose place), with a remote feel to it and a real spirit of adventure. We had it all on this day; falling rocks, dodgey abseils and a tide that waits for no man and nearly claimed Dave and Chris’s rucksacks, except for the quick witted Tom who leapt across the bolder field to rescue them.

The day ended with the demise of my long suffering Lumix Camera as it finally gave it up after having been bashed around the cliffs for 3 years and a solo on Mince Pie Route. Quite enough excitement for one day.