What a filthy month this November has been. Good job I saved the decorating for now as there has been sod all opportunity toi get out on the rock. Except of course for today, during which Barry and me managed to pluck the only dry spell for weeks.
However the crag was dripping. The Devils Rock area was in no condition to climb at all. But The Pinnacle was ok. As a stand alone buttress it doesnt suffer from seepage as much as the other buttresses. I sort of got a bit mixed up with the routes. I actually thought we were doing Pinnacle Buttress a V Diff, but it turns out we were on Reverse Cleft a Severe.
It didnt matter as Barry and me had a great time on the route. A fairly straight forward first pitch, leads into a much steeper and more technical second pitch. Being damp added a bit more jeopardy and the jamming section was a bit grim, having to trust greasy cracks. I found it a tough lead for Severe in the conditions. Still, it honed technique. Barry, still very much learning the ropes so to speak, did excellently. The work on the indoor walls paying immediate dividends.
We walked out up the gulley between Needle and Raven Buttresses, probably the crux of the day, with slimy boulders and no grip. Finishing at the top of the Tor capped a great day out. The rain had held off all day and only came in as we reached the car. A very satisfying moment.
Silk – Severe 4a – Lead Satin – HVS 5a – Second Mozambique – VS 4c – Lead
Its been a while since Joe and I got to climb together, so this was always going to be a good day out. One thing I can guarantee is that I will end up being challenged and this day was no exception.
Foxhole Slabs feels remote and you can only access it a few hours after high tide. The Peregrines we annoyed by being in the area were testament to this. They are astonishing birds, sleek and powerful. Their cries are so distinctive. An adult and juvenile let us know they were around. Such a beautiful spot though, a bit King Kong’ish with all the dark rock spires and sea mist. And of course there was no one around. Only the odd voice drifting across from Welcome Mouth.
Joe had wanted to go to one of the few places on the Culm he’d not been to, so I was more than willing to give it a go. Just up the coast from Welcome Mouth is a series of slabs which offer great, steep climbing, typical of this area.
I got to start on the most amenable climb of the day in Silk. Never desperate, it still gives a great line following cracks and overlaps to a pretty dodgy belay. The bottom 2/3rds is fine. The top part, although not steep, needs some gardening, probably reflecting the little traffic it receives.
Joes lead followed a line to the right, which instantly was more difficult. Poor pro initially and spaced hand holds meant you had to rely a lot on friction with your feet. Easy enough on the second, but it must be intimidating on the lead. Mind you, Joe is like a limpet on these slabs.
Mozambique was a much greater test of my current mental strength. The opening 5a sequence is tricky and without Joe encouraging me to push through I would probably have sat on the ropes or come back down. Having made the initial move, there is another hard section. Strangely I found this easier, but I was still choughed to bits to have led this climb cleanly. It was for me the route of the day. Excellent climbing throughout and worth I think 3 stars in most peoples book.
Reflecting my current climbing fitness, I was knackered by the end of the day, but at the same time buzzing from what was one of the best days climbing I’ve had for a while. And more to come tomorrow with another new venue on the cards.
So another beautiful evening at Butter Hole and this one included an epic. Chris’ words to Mike, “Its always an epic with Ian!” rang truer than usual with an outing to a part of the cliff which can only be described as fluid.
As a start we backed up the pretty rusty in situ belay stakes with a couple of our own. Good job really as the abseil went straight over the cave and we all had a bit of air time. I should have know that the upper sections would be loose when a couple of large blocks detached as I gingerly abbed off the grassy ledge.
The hidden amphitheatre, as it is called, is actually very impressive. On a sunny evening like we had with no swell it was idylic. It probably warranted a swim, but we underestimated how long I would faff on the fairly tough 4b crux of MTP. My head is definitely not quite there yet. I feel good in my climbing, but cant combine the two at the moment. It will come.
The crux is through an overhang, into a groove. Good pro for the move into the groove, but the holds run out just above and so does the gear for a bit. Add a desire to not trust the rock and you have the perfect head game.
It seemed a bit unfair on Mike. Only his second outing in a while and we all ended up on a belay at mid height. It turned out to be the right move as everything above moved, fell off or was grass. The size of some of the boulders Chris was moving around as he threaded his way to the ab rope was definitely disturbing.
But, we all made it out alive which is a bonus. In review, a good lower section and a suicidal upper one. No stars this time, but for drama what more could you ask for. The mist at the end added to this as we all left fairly content with our achievements.
As for the fly I inhaled and which got stuck in my throat on the way in. Well, its the first meat I’ve eaten in 30 years.
The sloping ledge climb – V Diff – Lead The Cracks – Severe 4a – Lead The Little Mermaid – Severe 4b – Lead
Its not often that we go to a completely new venue, Why I’ve overlooked Wicca Pillar in the past I dont know, but its a really beautiful area. Surrounded by ancient bronze age field systems and on a not so travelled part of the coast it has quite a remote feeling. The walk in from Wicca Farm (bargain £2.00 parking) is lovely down lanes and tracks full of spring flowers and birdsong.
Stunning location as usual
It was Tom, Dave and me today. Looking for some relatively easy climbing as Dave continues his rehabilitation and tests his body on what is and is not possible. To be fair it suits me, as I am still very much in ‘post op’ recovery so gradually easing my way back into things.
The Pillar is basically a volcanic plug, sticking out from the base of the cliff. Accessible even at high tide, if there is no swell. Be warned though, any swell and the spray is likely to get you wet. Queue Dave who took another soaking. Seems to be a habit at the moment.
The Pillar. Note the sling on the left which we used as a final abseil
The rock is pretty crystalline and definitely needs care when you pull on it. The higher you go the more fragile it gets. There is also a surprising dearth of protection. For V Diff’s and Severe’s you would expect a lot more. But the climbing itself is straight forward. Getting off again is not as straight forward as the guidebook suggests. We rigged a temp abseil so we could go up and down, but the final climb meant throwing an old sling around a spike and leaving it there. I think we could of done the downclimb of the southern end of the pillar, but sea spray made it a bit slippy so we took the easy option.
Me on The sloping ledge climb
The gully containing The Little Mermaid is a good option when waves are spraying the main pillar. The rock on the flat topped ridge is even more unsound, but its sheltered and makes for a continuation of the day. The latter climb is given 4b purely for the opening moves. Its then all over. Again protected by micro’s which seem a bit extreme for a Severe.
Dave on The Cracks (Severe 4a)
The best of the routes I did was the V Diff in fact. Bold to start, but interesting technical moves. This is a good location for when you just want to rock up and get some easier routes done. Once again, Dave paid for past indiscretions with another soaking. You could say this is Karma. The sound of a raging sea around us definitely added to the atmosphere. Once a again a great day out with good mates.
Down Under, Up Top – VS 4c – Second Aoetearoa – HS 4b – Second Colonial Solidarity – Severe 4a – Lead Boomerang – HVS 5a – Lead
Three always sounds like a problematic number when your climbing and if it involves multi-pitch routes I’d agree. But we’ve been finding three a good sociable number and todays shared adventure was a pleasure from start to finish.
Looking down Down Under zawn
I,ve spent a fair few weeks exploring Preddanck Head with Dave, but this was the first for Chris and although Tom’s been there a few times this was his first outing in Down Under Zawn. And for me, I had a couple of routes in mind, both of which were new. This early in the year I never quite know where I’m at with stamina and strength, so I knew Boomerang would be a test.
April in Cornwall is a special time of the year. The Gorse is in full flower, with its Coconut and Buttery flavour, Pink Campion is all around and everything just feels fresh. New beginnings. Its inspirational, which I’m sure spurs your overall sense of wellbeing along.
Chris on Aoetearoa. On the amazing flake.
So where to begin. I knew both Aoetearoa and Down Under, Up Top would be classics for Chris and Tom and despite having climbed them a few times I never tire of the routes. Chris is on form at the moment and sailed through both. The vid below time captures DUUT and gives an idea of how good the route is.
For me, I found a little gem in Colonial Solidarity. Although Severe it packs a punch. A burly opening move leads into a crack which provides great climbing. Steep and entertaining.
Tom working his way up Colonial Solidarity
But Boomerang was my main target. I had a feeling it might be a bit beefy for me and after a tricky scramble to get to the starting block, I looked up to have my beliefs confirmed. It was going to be beefy. From below you can see the curved line but it is obviously overhanging at the top crack. Gear looked good and with Crack Gloves on, I set off.
Chris psyching up for Boomerang…… or not!
Its one of those climbs where each time you think ‘This is it, I’m off’ another hold appears. Lots of hidden juggy rails and crimps. It was a case of keep moving and hope the stamina stays there. And it did 🙂 In the end it went well. No really desperate moments, and I always felt safe. A really good tick and a climb I can thoroughly recommend.
Cosy belay of Boomerang
The way off is by means of an abb with a rope thrown around a rock bollard. You conveniently arrive back in the zawn just above DUUP. So it would have been churlish for Chris not to have led it.
Toms home made crack gloves
What I can also say is that COVID seems to have had a devastating affect on the local pub population. Looking for somewhere for a pint on the way home proved difficult with pub after pub looking derelict and shut. Lets hope some of these get back going again.
Andrew – V Diff, Severe, VS3c+ (take your pick) – Alt Lead Black Slab – Diff – Solo
There are days in climbing where you just don’t want any pressures. Where the ultimate enjoyment is going to be moving on the rock, effortlessly, with no pressure to put yourself out of your comfort zone. Chris and I decided this was going to be one of those days, although Andrew does provide a few surprises even at V Diff/Severe.
Pitch 1 Andrew
Some of the old V Diffs just don’t feel like V Diffs. Andrew is definitely one of those. Hovering around the Severe to V Diff grade in the guides, it has a couple of pitches which are guaranteed to give new V Diff leaders a run for their money.
Pitches 2 and 4 provide dilemma’s for the novice leader in different ways. And even for Chris, who would cruise V Diffs all day, the moves are perplexing. Pitch two start off a broad ledge with a step up onto a face. Looks easy 🙂 but its off balance and your feet never feel comfortable. Hands are not right either. I dont know how many times I started off when I first led it, and Chris found it exactly the same. Definitely a trust move.
Pitch 4 Andrew
And of course the final pitch. As out there as V Diff/Severe’s can be. Top of Bosi with an overhanging V groove/chimney. Everything’s there, but its intimidating and atmospheric. What a pitch to finish on.
The lower slabs and seaward area
And that was it for the lead and roped climbing. We dropped down to the seaward face to check out Geronimo which provided endless fun. Its not an easy climb down and we seemed to find a different way out up some sloping ledges. It seemed the only fitting way to end things was a solo of Black Slab. And how good is that. Big holds, big foot placements and a birds eye view across Bosi.
Black Slab
Two very satisfied climbers stopped for a quick Guiness at the Gurnards Head. My first post COVID bear out and sat in the sun in the garden there it was our own little bit of paradice as we congratulated each other in our smugness.
24th January 2020 Aire Point Night Flight – Severe – Second
On the odd occasion you realise you’ve picked the wrong sport. This was one of those days. We rocked up to Gwenver for a stroll to Aire Point, only to see an amazing left peeling in towards the point. Low tide with the bank almost exposed, I rekon it was about as good as it gets.
Unfortunately there wasnt a board between us and so we had to settle for a chilled day mooching around the point. It was just the wrong side of damp so many of the routes were not in condition for climbing, but our explorations identified a cluster of routes tucked away at the head of the small zawn that cuts through the seawrd face. These are going to be worth a return visit, but maybe when it is warmer and drier. Would suit a nice sunny evening.
Instead we sat around a lot (either side of Daves excellent lead on the cruxy Night Flight) and talked about how luck we were to spend relaxing days, doing very little with good mates. A little bit ‘Last of the Summer Wine’ really 🙂
Not I might add the actor, but the famous explorer Richard Francis Burton, purported to be one of the first Europeans to cross Africa from West to East. I read a story about how they had to cut their way through miles of jungle; so Tregiffian’s not Africa but today’s outing felt like it for a while.
Sophie in the Jungle
It was a pretty harsh introduction for Sophie as a new member of the group. Shame I forgot to mention that we would be hacking our way through 100 metres of dense thorn, stingers and brambles. Still, I managed to forget my trousers as well, so shorts it was and the tingling sensation is still there in my legs 6 hours after leaving. I suppose its a right of passage though. Here’s Rule 4…. live with it!
Me on Acid Test
However despite the pain it was an amazing day. Sunshine, perfect rock and great climbs. And finally a plunge in the freezing briny. Tregiffian is a truly magical place. Remote; a hard slog to get to and requiring commitment to jungle bash your way in, but the climbing is very fine.
De-rigging after Acid Test
Sophie and I started on Thea, a nice Severe with a tricky leftwards move at half height. Th rocks not perfect on this route, but the final slab makes it worthwhile. And then on to Acid Test, one of my favourite VS’s. Joe explained that I was doing it all wrong because I just step into the crack and try to walk up it. Precarious, but fun, but there’s nothing for your hands so its a bit of a trust things using the crack to cam your body on.
No explanation required!!
Our final swim capped off a great day. Still a bit cold, but actually not too bad once you’ve been in for a few minutes. Not a bad turn out for this one. 6 of us with Dave, Piers, Chris, Joe (back from his adventures in Norway), Me and Sophie.
Second Slip – Severe 4a – Lead Gymslip – VS 5a -Lead Foam Follower – HVS 5a – T/R Sea Music – V Diff – Solo
Its been a long time since Joe and I rocked up to Pendeen in the mist and first explored its slightly under-graded routes. Its a strange but slightly enchanting place with surprisingly good quality routes for a small venue.
The seaward Cliffs at Pendeen
Not one that always springs to mind, but after a quick rekki to the South coast Chris and I opted for the more sheltered North, given the Easterly winds. A good choice as it turned out. The obvious place to drop in is next to a cleft on top of the seaward buttress; which of course we did. But this leads to a freaky but fun drop inside the the huge boulder into a sort of cave. OK the first few times but as the tide pushed it made for an exciting challenge, timing when to drop so that you didnt get hit by a wave!
Chris on Second Slip at Pendeen
The two climbs I led on the seaward cliffs were both tough for the grades.With my head still not in full trad mode, I made a bit of a meal of both, but was glad that I persevered to bag both of them. For Second Slip (a repeat) its the step off the boulder which is unprotected but actually straight forward. I dont know why I was so hesitant. Gymslip is a different proposition. Another hard move to get established, but then a decided absence of gear leads to some thought provoking moves. For me I couldnt commit for a long time. Only Chris’ constant reassurance and encouragement got me through. Turns out it was all about one move with little gear. Then everything pans out.
Both routes are really enjoyable and worthwhile, with great moves and absorbing climbing. The same cant be said for either of the other two. While Sea Music was a ladder, it was a decidedly ropy ladder. No point protecting it. You were more likely to kill your belay partner with the falling choss than save yourself. Still it was fun if nervy. Foam Follower is described as ‘poorly protected’ which it isnt. I know I didnt lead it but I checked it out and there are a number of placements. However, the overall quality of the rock has to be considered as well. So maybe it is poorly protected, just in a cliff collapsing sort of way 🙂
Joe on Pork Ordinaire
The coastline here has a timeless air to it. Plenty of old mine workings around and on this day a haze which made it seem surreal. I do love Cornwall… all of it. But places like this make you feel alive when you visit.
Fences – HS 4b – Lead Sloe Slab – V Diff – Solo Porcupine – VS 4c – Semi Solo 🙂 The Hearse – V Diff – Second Toy Story 2 – Severe 4b – Second
Wow what a windy cold day this was! Got things slightly wrong with the weather, as the wind was whipping into the Cove like it was going through a funnel. A few more degrees to the north and we would have been ok, but it was a bit of a trial of endurance.
Bouldering in
Coming in from the bottom of the valley is described as arduous in the guide book because it involves a boulder hop to get to the main face. But contrary to this, we all found the traverse good fun and it involved some nice climbing. For those not comfortable with scrambling about with fairly high steep drops, I would recommend the alternate abseil or walk from the ridge. But this is definitely the fun way in.
Dave enjoying the freezing wind… if only you could see it!
I was also surprised that the main face section was reasonably accessible even at high tide (only a small swell running). For some reason I seem to remember it being a problem on the high tide, but the landward climbs are all available almost through to ‘Iron Bell’. We (Tom, Dave and I) all had a lead. Fences is a textbook corner, as is The Hearse. Dave’s Toy Story 2 was a bit steeper but good holds all the way. All three are worth doing, with strangely Toms lead, The Hearse being the hardest to protect.
The rock here though is second to none. Unpolished, grippy and immaculate granite in a stunning location. What more could you ask for except less wind?? And as is always the case when we’re out, we turned a fairly normal (and normal is not always normal) day into one of adventure by deciding to solo out. Sounded like a good plan to start with but ended with Dave having an epic tussle with lichen and a gnarly arete and me and Tom wondering how we were going to get up a tricky VS with two cams and a nut (and I’m not referring to Tom).
Me and Tom semi soloing Porcupine
The solo up Sloe Slab had been an adrenaline rush. Nothing like squeezing through a tortuous mantle shelf, after a smooth slab with no rope or gear. But Porcupine is a foot grinder. Positive flakes but its a case of jam that foot in and soak up the pain. Seeing as Dave had wandered off with all the gear and the second rope (doh!!) Tom and I jury rigged a few dubious gear placements and alt led the pitch in semi solo stylee. What a buzz. Must do this soloing malarkey more often if you get that kind of adrenaline :-). Mind you we’re no Alex Honnold, but I sort of get where he’s coming from. Free soloing focuses the mind like no other kind of climbing. Easy moves become a challenge when you are trying to influence the percentages of success in your favour. And you get real freedom.
Dave…. On the wrong crag???
And so ended a typically adventurous day with good mates. As we collected Dave for the walk back to the bags I couldn’t help but reflect how lucky we are. Turning a pretty shite day into a good one by seeking out a great location and having a good crack with good friends. Coming back here shortly by the way as its a top place to climb and there’s loads of routes I want to do.
Oh and did I mention that Tom licks his gear as a form of corrosion test for salt air. Well, each to their own ha ha
Dave…. On the wrong crag???
Me and Tom semi soloing Porcupine
Dave enjoying the freezing wind… if only you could see it!
Bouldering in
Tom about to explode his knee….
Why it never rains on a Friday!
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