This is becoming a regular outing, one way or another. On this occasion Dave, Tom, Chris and Tony were along for the trip, with a cameo from Bart and his mate Adam. And each year brings something a little different. Last year it was torrential rain, with the paths flowing like rivers; the year before heavy snow and this year probably somewhere in the middle. Only once have the conditions been spot on for climbing, so maybe its time to move the trip to earlier in the year.
Contemplating the North Ridge
In usual fashion we arrived in the dark to set up on a very wet site. My tent decided it had had enough and became wetter on the inside than outside. For a Macpac I’m a bit disappointed. They are regarded as bombproof but this is anything but, with the bucket sheet losing its hydrostatic ability completely. Still, Macpac have offered to replace it, so it’s not all bad.
Getting stuck in
The two days ended up being centred around walking and scrambling. Not a bad thing, although I’d set my heart on climbing. The hills had a fair amount of snow on them and the decision to do the North ridge turned out to be a good one. Although a bit icy, it was great fun and some sections needed a bit of tenacity to get past slippy and damp slabs and holds. As usual the views from the ridge were stunning.
Success. Close to the summit.
The next day proved a bit of a dilemma. I wanted to check out Criag yr Ysfa with a view to doing one of the V Diffs there, but in the end the cold beat us and we set off on the Carnedd ridge walk finishing at Pen yr Ole Wen.
Craig yr Ysfa but a bit cold for 7 pitches
With strong winds, snow/hail storms and generally inhospitable conditions it was fantastic. Regulating your temperature is so difficult in these conditions. One minute hot, then freezing – I must have taken my jacket off a dozen times during the day.
The weather closes in
Having done this walk, I would like to do a bit more in snow and ice. Maybe some of the scrambles as long as I have crampons.
Descent off Pen yr ole wen
What I have discovered though is that cold is not my favorite condition, as I know from my surfing. Maybe its time for some winter sun destinations instead!
Magnificent Triffan
Contemplating the North Ridge
Getting stuck in
Success. Close to the summit.
Craig yr Ysfa but a bit cold for 7 pitches
The weather closes in
Stunning views back along the ridge on Carnedd llewelyn
Moaning Minnie – V Diff – Lead Strake – HS 4b – Top Rope Coiled Stick – HVS 5a – Lead Eternitys Few – VS 5a – Second
Stood on the gearing up platform shortly after our arrival it was hard to imagine we would be doing anything but heading for the Logan Rock Inn for a pint. Contrary to the forecast, there was drizzle and it was fairly persistant.
The traverse in.
I’ve never been one for giving up and so we decided to make our way over to the base of the lower tier climbs. This is a good warm up in its own right and in the wet with a bit of swell added, there was a bit of spice in the traverse.
Ian starts out on Moaning Minnie.
Erring on the side of caution Dave and I picked a Diff and V Diff respectively. Strangely, by time we got to the top the rain had stopped and the granite was drying fast. The rain didnt detract from Moaning Minnies qualities. Its a V Diff with good variety and it has a sting in the middle in the form of a narrow, skewed ramp. Climbing this with style is a major challenge as everything slopes the wrong way…. tricky.
Joe 'discovering' the narrow off balance ramp on Moaning Minnie
Dave meanwhile was making his way up Kellys Eye, the distinctive channel which bisects the main climbing area. So we all met at the middle tier platform. This gave Tom, Chris, Joe and Dave a chance to worm their way up Sloe Slab, the very different route with a crawl to finish. Having already done this I top rope Strake. I almost wish I hadnt. Its a bit grim, very overgrown and dirty. Without all the muck it might be a good route, but in this condition its best avoided.
The difficult start to Sloe Slab
Now Coiled Stick is very different. It has its moments with regard to dirt and moss, particularly on the middle crack, but overall its a great route. I cant deny that the middle section spooked me a bit. The pro would probably have been OK if the crack wasnt full of soil and weeds. Trying my best not to just rip everything out, I managed to eke out a few poor placements, but at no time did I think ‘That’s a bomber’. But the climbing is not hard at this point, just balancey.
The tricky middle crack
The top crack is a different proposition. Here the pro is good but the climbing much tougher as power starts to come into play. The damp conditions didnt help, but to be fair it was more a case of pushing on and getting established in the crack. Once I’d done this things became more manageable. Really pleased I did this one.
Ian on the tough top crack of Coiled Stick
Meanwhile Chris was on Porcupine. Given VS it is soft at the grade, but this doesnt detract from the quality of the climb. A great route which Dave and Tom thoroughly enjoyed as well.
Chris on the top section of Porcupine
We had time for another route (just) so Dave set off on the brilliant Iron Bells while Joe tackled the hard start on Eternitys Few. I knew Dave was in for a treat, but Joe’s route turned out to be good as well. The crux is a bold move about 6-7 metres up, probably why it is given 5a. It takes some working out and the slippy moss doesnt inspire you with confidence. A good lead by Joe.
Dave on Iron Bells.
Having to make our way back to the gearing up ledge, we ended up scattering across the crag. probably not a good idea as I spied Dave inching his way up what looked like hard territory. Joe needed a bit of help by Dave and Tom as he got stuck half way up a chimney. Maybe next time we’ll stick together. Chris and I traversed back on the lower slabs, back roping a dodgey wet decent crack and following the traverse back. main thing is we all arrived back safe just as we lost the light and trudged back to Penberth.
If you’d said the day would turn out this well at the start I wouldnt have believed you. Another stolen moment on Cornish granite.
Ian on the tough top crack of Coiled Stick
Dave on Iron Bells.
The traverse in.
Ian starts out on Moaning Minnie.
Dave on Kellys Eye
Joe ‘discovering’ the narrow off balance ramp on Moaning Minnie
Dave and Joe on the bottom tier
Joe completes Moaning Minnie
The difficult start to Sloe Slab
Chris on Sloe Slab
Chris contemplating the squeeze
Chris disappears into the ‘hole’ on Sloe Slab
The belay above Sloe Slab
Chris on the top section of Porcupine
The tricky middle crack
Chris high on Porcupine as Ian gets nervous on Coiled Stick
The Armchair – HVS 5a – Lead Doorpost – HS 4b – Second
Pete, bless his cotton socks , had to be on his toe’s as I took to the air on Armchair. A silly mistake really. I missed the wet patch on what is a fairly polished route anyway. The result was unexpected flight time.
Ian on The Armchair
The start of Armchair is a real mental exercise. Ten years ago maybe the edges were a bit sharper and positive, but on this day everything seemed rounded and smooth. As it happened I negotiated the harder stuff and then fell off once things eased off. This though doesnt detract from the fact The Armchair is a top climb. It just get better and better the higher you go. Lots of tough exposed moves up the ramp add up to an exhilerating experience. One of my favorites.
Chris on the crux of P1 Paragon
Chris and Joe meanwhile tackled Zig Zag and Dave and Tom Doorpost. Because Pete and I took a little longer ( I had to strip some gear) by time we had finished lunch Chris and Joe has started off on Paragon. Shame they didnt take the guidebook, because they got lost on pitch three, missing the offwidth and ending up on Nameless. A lesson learned really in making sure a guide book is to hand on multi pitch routes. Still it means Chris and Joe have a target for the next time they go to Bosi.
Tom leading P1 Doorpost
I finished on Doorpost with Tom and Dave. Tom got his first experience of a Hard Severe on the lead. The big difference for him was placing gear on what is a tough traverse. Not sure Bosi had even heard of some of the language he used but Tom got there in the end for his first HS tick. Dave set off on P2. His confidence is brimming at the moment and it showed as he negotiated the crux move through the twin cracks on what must be one of the most exposed sections of bosi. Doorpost is remarkable in the exposure it delivers at the grade. Lots of adrenaline then.
The view down P2 Doorpost
So next time back at Bosi its going to be a full ascent of Paragon. Bring it on!
Friends – VS 5a – Lead Immaculate Groove – E1 5b – Second
A really foggy morning greeted us from our tents at Treen. Treen has a great campsite and was a good choice of venue for the BMC meet. Shame then that most of the BMC was at Treverven Farm campsite on the other side of the valley! It appears Treen hadnt been warned so we ended up on the wrong site.
Even with an inauspicious start the day turned out to be a cracker. The previous evening in the Logan Rock I’d arranged with Nick to meet at Pordenack which would give me a chance to have another go at Friends, the VS that had bested me previously.
Hot. The weather that is... not me!
With everything heating up nicely Tony and Joe set up for the tricky Nothing Much. I set off hoping that things would be easier second time around. They werent. But Friends is such a good climb. Once you are past the overhang the pressure is on to get through it. There are no good rests so by time I reached the atmospheric top out I was fairly pumped, but well chuffed to have made it clean this time.
Tony on the final section of Nothing Much
For Tony, it was straight in at the deep end on Nothing Much but he made a good fist of it, making it clean and getting Joe’s pro out, including the bit he fell on doing the difficult traverse. I think after three HVS’s in a row Joe was pretty knackered.
Me and Nick after some strenuous climbing on Immaculate Groove
Nick had his eye on an E1 on the point across the bay called Carn Boel. Immaculate Groove turned out to be just that. A brilliant technical slab leads to a brutal overhang which needs to be dealt with through jamming. Nick made the slab look straight forward, but found the crack tough on the overhang. Fair play though, he made it even if it cost a little blood. I didnt fair so well, slipping on the slab and then just running out of energy and strength when I needed it most.
So a fair trade. One nemisis conquered in Friends and another created in Immaculate Groove. I will return…
The upper section of Carn Boel, called Terrace Cliff has some meandering routes. From the bottom they look poor, but actually they offer good climbing. I’ve done Kari before which turned out to be a tough V Diff. Tom led Bitter End, another challenging climb which goes up through the heart of the cliff.
Pordenack Point from Carn Boel
And so ended another great weekend. Lots of good routes and good company.
Pordenack Point from Carn Boel
Hot. The weather that is… not me!
Tony on the top section of Nothing Much
The final section of Nothing Much
Me and Nick after some strenuous climbing on Immaculate Groove
Sinister – VS 4c – Lead Pilgrims – HVS 4c – Second
View toward Carn Barra
The scramble onto Fox Promontory is almost as much fun as the climbing. It’s definitely a good warm up as you move along the narrow ridge to the far nose. Once again you are enveloped in the ruggedness and beauty of Cornwalls coast. The view out towards Carn Barra opens up with miles of Granite climbing on display.
A busy ab point
A few of us (6 to be exact) made our way here with the thought that when it heated up, which it was going to on this day, Fox would be fairly cool being a more north facing venue. Strange how durig the cooler months you look for warm venues and then as soon as it gets hot, the search is on for shady spots.
The ab in
Finding the ab point caused us the usual problems, but most of the edges are steep and we managed not to destroy Pete’s new rope in the process. We started again on the seaward nose with Joe and Pete on the Muzzle, me and Tom on Sinister and Chris and Dave having another go at the guano infested hairy monster that is the Whisker.
Pulling up into the groove of Sinister
The latter is given stars in the guide, but it would seem lack of traffic and nesting birds make what should be a great climb a little unpleasant in places. Still, Chris and Dave completed it this time, finishing up a tough and very dirty crack. No push over this one by all accounts.
Scouting out Pilgrims
Tom and I struggled to follow the described guidebook route, possibly because some of Sinister has fallen down. Either that or we were way of route. The mantleshelf described didnt appear to be there, but the moves around the corner and up over the flake are really good fun.
A busy belay as well
Fox Promontory is a stunning venue. Very secluded and a very different place when sunny to when its dark and grey. On this day it was brilliant, with water so clear that the seal watching us for most of the day could be seen in its entirety. Mind blowing.
Joe had been gunning for something with a bite all day and a venture up Pilgrim ticked all the boxes. After a short tantrum from me about not starting in the only damp niche on the south coast on this day, we set off up the bottom pitch of Mistaken Identity which links more obviously with the top pitch of Pilgrims. As a complete route it works well, but doesnt make the top pitch any easier. Joe did a brilliant job leading this one. Gear is OK but the balancey nature of the climb makes placing it difficult. Lots of small crimpy holds, careful footwork makes for a top route.
Joe on the top belay of Pilgrims
Dave and Chris were on Sunshine cracks, by all accounts a slightly run out HS with some tough moves and Tom found his usual degenerating pile of choss called Foxblood which led to Pete ageing a few years prematurely as Tom ran it out.
Once again, completely knackered we trudged back to Porthgwarra. For Tom myself and Joe it would be more of the same the following day as we were staying at Treen for the BMC meet.
Socket Wall – Severe 4b – Lead Crack in the Sky – E1 5b – Lead Exodus – VS 5a – Lead
Carn Barra was our second choice of venue, from the ‘cant make a decision crew’ in the van (Tom, Dave, Chris and Pete) but as it turned out it was the right one. With a quickly dropping tide and a small swell the main platform of CB was dry and we had access to some classic routes.
Socket Wall
Socket Wall was dry and we paired up to tackle two quite tough routes, Socket Wall and Cumbelloe. Both have physical starts and although the pro is decent neither are pushovers at the grade. They turned out to be good warm up routes for what was to come.
Chris moving up Cumbeloe HS 4b
The main event for me was an attempt at Crack in the Sky. I’d been meaning to have a go at another E1 and this was a route I’d had my eye on for some time. A difficult corner leads to a ledge and then comes the strenuous stuff. At first you cant see the holds, but once you’ve committed up onto the face the holds are there.
Pete finds the wobbly chock stoneThank god for arm bars!
When you reach the crack the jamming starts. Arm bars and fist jams help and there are some hidden edges in the crack but ultimately it is a power struggle and you need to keep going and use your feet as much as possible. I just made it with nothing left in the tank and a real sick feeling from the adrenaline rush. Amazing! One of the best climbs I’ve ever done just because of the effort it took to get to the top. Pete, after a little hesitation got stuck into CITS. The look on his face and Chris’s for that matter rivalled my own when they topped out. That top crack is great, matched equally by their smiles.
Pete fighting with the upper crack on Crack in the Sky
Meanwhile Dave and Tom were knocking off a few routes of their own. Peel Crack and Sleazy Corner to be precise. Two good V Diffs, especially Peel Crack which is atmospheric in its upper section. Both of them are growing in confidence each trip out.
Dave and Tom on Sleazy Corner a hard Difficult or V Diff in other words
A well earned lunch left just enough time for a quick assault on Axis and Exodus two VS’s on the higher Eastern platform. I went for Exodus which takes a line similar to Axis but branches off rightwards along a horizontal break. The traverse is great fun but there is a really tricky move up into the steep niche/crack and then another to reach the steeper ground. But its a really good climb as long as you avoid the rope drag and keep in touch with your belayer. Tom did a good job listening out for my jittery shouts, especially when my left hand cramped up due to a distinct lack of salt in my system.
Tom belaying on the Axis ledge
This whole event was capped off when Dave came up on his own because of time. Tom shimmied up Axis and Dave kept asking me to take in on blue. Typical of Sea cliffs, comms are not easy with the roar of the sea and wind. This would explain Daves suprise when I gleefully informed him that he was only on Yellow so what was the point of taking in Blue. Fortunately Dave had tied in on yellow and was past the unprotected traverse by then (all the pro was on blue). He would’nt have decked, but the swing would have been a long one!
God I love climbing.
The point where Axis and Exodus part company
Tom belaying on the Axis ledge
Socket Wall
Ian starting up Socket Wall
The first pumpy moves on Socket Wall
Chris moving up Cumbeloe HS 4b
The tricky middle section of Cumbeloe
Dave topping out on Socket Wall
The abb in
Ian on the opening corner of Crack in the Sky
Thank god for arm bars!
So pumped I was nearly sick
Pete finds the wobbly chock stone
Pete fighting with the upper crack on Crack in the Sky
Dave and Tom on Sleazy Corner a hard Difficult or V Diff in other words
Ochre Slab 1 – VS 5a – Alt lead (P2) Ding – VS 4c – Alt Lead (P2) Limpet Slab – V Diff – Second
On occasions the Ochre Slab area of Bosi is almost like a seperate venue to the main cliff. A large gulley seperates it from Raven Wall and whilst the well known multi pitch routes around the Doorpost area can be busy, this area has the feeling of seclusion.
Looking out towards Commando Ridge
And it was like that on this day. I’d earmarked Paragon initially, but OSR1 was clear and I’d always wanted to have a crack at the wild chimney on its final pitch.
With Dave and Tom tackling the classic Black Slab we scrambled our way across to the start via some soloing. OSR1 has two completely contrasting pitches. The first is all about finesse with a crux that involves traversing blind around the arete on the right. Pro’s ok but it’s a tricky move and you have to have faith that there is something there for your feet and hands. Chris made it look easy, finding the invisible holds and foot placements and looking like he was thoroughly enjoying himself. The whole line flows very nicely and although the top slab is bold, the climbing is not tough as you get higher.
Dave on Black Slab
The chimney is entirely different. Still requiring a bit of faith that holds will come, it’s all about pulling up into the space and then searching out the jugs. My first attempts, while Tom was belaying directly below were abandoned on account of my landing on his head if I fell. After a nervous couple of minutes I hauled up and ‘behold’ it all becomes clear how its done. Just have faith!
Dave leading Ochre Slab Route 2
Chris and I moved onto Ding while Tom and Dave went for OSR2 a fitting companion to our previous route and a brilliant climb as well. Chris got the first pitch of Ding which to be honest is the best one. He remarked later how all the climbs on this day seemed to flow and this is particularly the case with Ding. It follows a superb line up the face with a series of hard moves.
Ian demonstrating how not to chimney
My ventures on the second pitch once again exposed my failings on chimneys. Still, I had fun and the final swing out on the overhang (we were off route by this time, probably on Dong) capped two amazing routes. Big smiles all around then and only one course of action…..
To the Cove for a swim!!!!
and jump!
Having cooled off nicely on what was a baker of a day we finished on two side by side routes at Halldrine Cove, which Dave and Tom led. Contrasting, mine which Tom led, was an exposed arete and Chris’ which Dave led was an akward chimney. Both done really well by their respective leaders.
Dave and Tom leading at Halldrine
Tom and Dave are coming on really fast with their leading. I remenisced with Chris on the fact that it took a couple of years for us to get to the same stage that they are at after a few months. The big difference I suppose is that Chris and I had to learn everything for ourselves and we had no one to push us. Didnt stop us having fun though and this year we’re checking out E1’s so we got there in the end.
Chris on Shrimpet
Oh Yes! Nearly forgot about the encore. A pod of Risso’s Dolphins appeared literally as we finished the day. Could it get better. Yes. A stop for a beer at Zennor capped what was a truly memorable day.
Tom checking out the dolphins off Halldrine
Tom checking out the dolphins off Halldrine
Dave on Black Slab
Dave leading Ochre Slab Route 2
Looking out towards Commando Ridge
Ian demonstrating how not to chimney
Belay on Ding
The amazing walk out to Halldrine over the top from Bosigran
Agent Provocateur – F7b – Worked Potential Energy – F6c+ – Worked
The Cheesewring is not the first place that springs to mind when you are considering finding a crag on a showery day, but the secret is to make sure you know which direction the wind is coming from.
The Agent Provocateur wall faces North East, so if the wind is from the South West it blows any rain straight over the slightly overhanging wall and keeps it dry. And this was the case, with only the belayer getting a bit damp.
I clipped a load of drawers on all the bolts and we pre clipped the rope on Agent Provocateur as a start, which is an alternate start for Potential Energy. The beginning of this is tough and takes time to work out (particularly if you’re not used to this grade).
We gradually worked our way up. I can now link the whole route with the exception of the last move onto the shelf. I intend to try and lead it next time there and also have a crack at Double Agent a more realistic finsh than that of AP.
Tom and Dave had fun on their first experience of hard sports routes spending the required amount of air time. It’s strange how what seems impossible at first gradually becomes a posibility as you find the little holds and foot placements.
I find the whole exercise good practice and it definitely improves your climbing. There are loads of other routes there for us to explore, so I imagine we’ll be back shortly to try again.
Maybe next time I’ll actually get to climb at the Cheesewring in dry sunny weather.
Gravity Slab – VS 4c – Lead Green Streaks – VS 4c – Lead Loose Limpet Crack – HS 4b – Second
Just incredible
So it was back to Tregiffian. Such an incredible place and so much climbing was irresistable. This time we had Pete and Chris in tow, so it was their turn to experience the thorn jungle approach. In fact the whole walk in on this day was pretty arduous. Really hot and with the recent rain the nettles, brambles and hawthorn seemed to have exploded.
The boulder cave entrance
So once there we did the obvious and jumped in the sea (which was still hypothermic). What a brilliant place to swim. There is a natural swimming pool there and with the sun and turquise water it was like being in the mediterranean without the warmth. Tom’s reference to the whole experience being slightly Brokeback Mountain didnt phase anyone, although Tom’s posing on a boulder was slightly dubious.
Ian about to set off on the amazing but bold Gravity SlabPete on the crux of Gravity Slab
My first route of the day was gravity slab. Tregiffian has the habit of serving up a variety of good climbs at VS and GS didnt disappoint. Completely different to Acid Test, GS is mostly about one move. But it is bold, both in the lower section and on the crux. The crux is a mantleshelf, out wide from your last piece of gear (which is bomber) so it feels very exposed. Also it’s not easy, making you rely on small crimps and smears to get you over the top. It scared me, but that’s what it is about really. Just the start Chris, Pete and I needed.
Dave finishing off Exit at Tregiffian
Meanwhile Dave and Tom were working their way up Exit so we all met back at the top of the crag. After descending back down we were alittle trapped by the tide. There was no swell but the pool below Loose Limpet Crack was still a bit deep so we went for Green Streak.
Pete on the first and tough pitch of Green StreakIan negotiating the slime on Green Streak's second pitch
OK, so this one doesnt look too bad from the bottom but once again it is a real fight. The finger crack is strenuous and difficult to read. The crux move takes some working out on the first pitch, and pro is hard to place. When Chris followed later most of his gear ended up in the rock pool below, but he just wanted an epic – which he got. Pete though made it look easy a good indication of how his climbing is coming on this year.
Suprisingly the second pitch which goes through slimy green rock and a waterfall is great fun. After the strain of the first it adds some fun and I loved it. Even when the water started traveling down my belay setup it just provided a bit of cooling.
Chris getting balanced on Acid Test
Whilst I was on Green Streak, Chris was working his way up Acid Test. Talking to him later he had the same ordeal I did, needing to work out how to tackle the crack. Still the climb of the crag in my opinion.
Cooling my feetDave styling on Loose Limpet Crack
Dave had been eyeing up the main face and a great looking V Diff called Loose Limpet Crack. Harder than anything else Dave has done, this was a proper challenge. It involves two transfers from one crack to another, the first being the crux. Dave cruised through it, providing a fitting end to what was a fantastic day.
Tom high on Loose Limpet Crack
What I find startling is that having done so many top climbs here, there still seems to be loads more. I’m sure we’ll be back soon, hopefully before the end of the summer for another swim.
The Scillonian cruising by.
The boulder cave entrance
Ian about to set off on the amazing but bold Gravity Slab
Pete on the crux of Gravity Slab
Chris soloing high up on the main face
Pete goes bold… or does he?
Dave finishing off Exit at Tregiffian
Waiting for the tide to drop back
Chris getting balanced on Acid Test
Belay ledge on Green Streak
Ian negotiating the slime on Green Streak’s second pitch
Pete on the first and tough pitch of Green Streak
Dave styling on Loose Limpet Crack
Cooling my feet
Dave on the final transition to the awkward finishing crack.
Our luck this year was always going to run out eventually. We have dodged the rain on numerous evenings and got away with it, but this was to be blind optimism taken a bit too far.
Un-named Traverse
Tony spotted the storm heading our way and there was no avoiding it. It’s quite elemental watching a dark mass of rain gradually obscure the north coast of Cornwall. Of course we were certain it would miss……
We managed one traverse and then bolted for the summit and shelter. And that was it as the rain set in. Oh well. Next time eh.
Un-named Traverse
Chris shows us how its done
Tom making the most of the slight footholds
Dave hanging in there
Why it never rains on a Friday!
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