Chudleigh Rocks – South Face Inkerman Groove – VS 4c – Lead
Of the four people Tony and I spoke to at Chudleigh all mentioned the ‘polish’. I think this probably gave a good indication of what we could expect from the venue. Having said that all said how good the climbing was so there must be a balance somewhere.
Chudleigh Rocks isnt hard to find, but its nicely tucked away in the woods and feels quite isolated despite its proximity to the village. The climbs are fairly straight forward to identify, especially as Oesophagus, a destinctive crack E1 is one of the first you come across. The other climbers recommeded a couple of routes but the one that looked in best condition on what was a damp day was Inkerman Groove.
It was a good choice. The start was hideous, covering the same ground as the inappropriately named ‘Wogs’ and very wet and slippery. This was almost the crux for me, but I’ve never liked climbing in the wet. Once I reached the traverse everything became much more enjoyable. Its quite technical and exposed but just brilliant climbing. The groove continues the adventure capping off a very memorable climb.
I checked the comments in UKC later when I got home, and many consider this to be the best limestone VS in the country. As its the only one I’ve led I cant comment except to say I’d recommend it to anyone.
Clearly loads of climbing to be had
In a bid to avoid getting washed out on another climb (we’d ridden our luck a lot on this day) we decamped and headed up to Hound Tor for a mooch. This is a startling place, very moody in the late evening sun and packed full of good climbing. In the pub on our return Tony and I agreed we needed to return with the full crew for a days bouldering and to do the great looking suspension flake.
The suspension flake buttress
Speaking of the pub. What a starnge place. No power (you can hear the generator), full of youngsters (I mean twenty somethings, not just peole who are younger than me) and completely isolated in the middle of the moor. I wish I could remember its name….
Iron Bells – HS 4b – Lead Sloe Slab – V Diff – Lead Porcupine – VS 4c – Lead
Parking is a bit of a problem here although on this day we were lucky enough to be able to park on the campsite. Otherwise its a short walk from Penberth. I doubt that there is a lot in it really.
Our gearing up ledge after a thorny arrival
Pete and I rolled up not really knowing what to expect. I know that when you look at the crag it seems broken and disjointed, but after a couple of attempts we successfully managed to access the base of the cliffs via a very thorny and overgrown path. The next task was to get across to the main climbing area which is done by a series of traverses, a couple of which are quite airy, so you may want to rope up.
The bottom of Iron Bells
We started on Iron Bells, a climb very reminiscent of Anvil Chorus’s second pitch. In fact the crack is thinner, but its not as steep. However it’s a great pitch and loads of fun, especially the overhang which is taken directly on really positive holds. The granite feels grippy, probably a reflection of how little climbing this venue has seen over the years.
Eying up the squeeze on Sloe Slab
Pete and I were then faced with the next problem.To get back down to the lower tier involved some serious jungle bashing which we didnt fancy, so instead we decided to just keep going up. A great choice in fact as Sloe Slab turned out to be loads of fun. One for the rest of the group to have a go at and see if anyone can make the exit through the gap look elegant. Me and Pete failed big time.
Pete demonstrates the slug move
With the weather taking a turn for the worse (the sun had now disappeared and we were frozen) we launched for the top. Some poor route reading by me meant we did a sort of mixed route part of which at least was Porcupine, a VS. I had intended to tackle to enticing thin crack on the left of the upper slab, which would have been HVS but cold hands and impending hypothermia made me decide to just get up there as fast as I could.
Pete on the upper tier (Porcupine?)
So all in all a great venue. Each tier has a number of options all in the V Diff to HVS range and it should be a good return next week when we come back mob handed with a stay on Trevervan camp site thrown in.
Right Hand Trinity – Severe 4b – Lead April Crack – HS 4b – Lead Hargreaves Original Route – VS 4c – Lead
I’d never been to Stanage. I’d read lots about it, but didnt really know what to expect. That and the almost religous way people talk about grit made it all the more anticipated.
The view out from Stanage
Finding the campsite proved to be a challenge. After my third circuit of Hathersage and the surrounding area I stumbled across it, but the wait was worth it as its a beautiful place nestled in the woods and a sheltered valley. At £7 a night its a bargain.
Barty's lonely tent at North Lees campsite
Greated by rain the signs were a bit ominous for the following day so Bart and I scouted the area and got our bearings with the climbing. We picked the April crack area which had a number of top 50’s at reasonable grades. It turned out to be a good idea.
The April Crack area - Hargreaves Original on the left, April Crack centre and Right Hand Trinity on the right (obviously)
Right Hand Trinity was a good starting point. The crux gave me a chance to see why people regard grit as so grippy. Its amazing how much friction you can generate on it and this proved useful when I got to Hargreaves Original. Whether the loose chockstone was broken already or if I did it didnt stop it suprising me when I tried to pull on it.
Bart on Hargreaves Original
All three climbs are great and for a first adventure on grit I am completely sold. Easy access, short technical routes and good camping facilities make this an obvious choice for a short climbing trip.
Bart finding out he hadnt charged up his camera. Doh!!!
The one factor which I was not used to is the crowds, but to be fair this just made the day more sociable. I still prefer the solitude of Penwith but Stanage has its merits.
Top of the lane leading to North Lees campsite
Barty’s lonely tent at North Lees campsite
The April Crack area – Hargreaves Original on the left, April Crack centre and Right Hand Trinity on the right (obviously)
Bart on Hargreaves Original
Bart finishing Right Hand Trinity
Bart about to start Right Hand Trinity
The view out from Stanage
Christmas Crack, the one we missed
Bart finding out he hadnt charged up his camera. Doh!!!
Friends – VS 5a – Lead Immaculate Groove – E1 5b – Second
A really foggy morning greeted us from our tents at Treen. Treen has a great campsite and was a good choice of venue for the BMC meet. Shame then that most of the BMC was at Treverven Farm campsite on the other side of the valley! It appears Treen hadnt been warned so we ended up on the wrong site.
Even with an inauspicious start the day turned out to be a cracker. The previous evening in the Logan Rock I’d arranged with Nick to meet at Pordenack which would give me a chance to have another go at Friends, the VS that had bested me previously.
Hot. The weather that is... not me!
With everything heating up nicely Tony and Joe set up for the tricky Nothing Much. I set off hoping that things would be easier second time around. They werent. But Friends is such a good climb. Once you are past the overhang the pressure is on to get through it. There are no good rests so by time I reached the atmospheric top out I was fairly pumped, but well chuffed to have made it clean this time.
Tony on the final section of Nothing Much
For Tony, it was straight in at the deep end on Nothing Much but he made a good fist of it, making it clean and getting Joe’s pro out, including the bit he fell on doing the difficult traverse. I think after three HVS’s in a row Joe was pretty knackered.
Me and Nick after some strenuous climbing on Immaculate Groove
Nick had his eye on an E1 on the point across the bay called Carn Boel. Immaculate Groove turned out to be just that. A brilliant technical slab leads to a brutal overhang which needs to be dealt with through jamming. Nick made the slab look straight forward, but found the crack tough on the overhang. Fair play though, he made it even if it cost a little blood. I didnt fair so well, slipping on the slab and then just running out of energy and strength when I needed it most.
So a fair trade. One nemisis conquered in Friends and another created in Immaculate Groove. I will return…
The upper section of Carn Boel, called Terrace Cliff has some meandering routes. From the bottom they look poor, but actually they offer good climbing. I’ve done Kari before which turned out to be a tough V Diff. Tom led Bitter End, another challenging climb which goes up through the heart of the cliff.
Pordenack Point from Carn Boel
And so ended another great weekend. Lots of good routes and good company.
Pordenack Point from Carn Boel
Hot. The weather that is… not me!
Tony on the top section of Nothing Much
The final section of Nothing Much
Me and Nick after some strenuous climbing on Immaculate Groove
Sinister – VS 4c – Lead Pilgrims – HVS 4c – Second
View toward Carn Barra
The scramble onto Fox Promontory is almost as much fun as the climbing. It’s definitely a good warm up as you move along the narrow ridge to the far nose. Once again you are enveloped in the ruggedness and beauty of Cornwalls coast. The view out towards Carn Barra opens up with miles of Granite climbing on display.
A busy ab point
A few of us (6 to be exact) made our way here with the thought that when it heated up, which it was going to on this day, Fox would be fairly cool being a more north facing venue. Strange how durig the cooler months you look for warm venues and then as soon as it gets hot, the search is on for shady spots.
The ab in
Finding the ab point caused us the usual problems, but most of the edges are steep and we managed not to destroy Pete’s new rope in the process. We started again on the seaward nose with Joe and Pete on the Muzzle, me and Tom on Sinister and Chris and Dave having another go at the guano infested hairy monster that is the Whisker.
Pulling up into the groove of Sinister
The latter is given stars in the guide, but it would seem lack of traffic and nesting birds make what should be a great climb a little unpleasant in places. Still, Chris and Dave completed it this time, finishing up a tough and very dirty crack. No push over this one by all accounts.
Scouting out Pilgrims
Tom and I struggled to follow the described guidebook route, possibly because some of Sinister has fallen down. Either that or we were way of route. The mantleshelf described didnt appear to be there, but the moves around the corner and up over the flake are really good fun.
A busy belay as well
Fox Promontory is a stunning venue. Very secluded and a very different place when sunny to when its dark and grey. On this day it was brilliant, with water so clear that the seal watching us for most of the day could be seen in its entirety. Mind blowing.
Joe had been gunning for something with a bite all day and a venture up Pilgrim ticked all the boxes. After a short tantrum from me about not starting in the only damp niche on the south coast on this day, we set off up the bottom pitch of Mistaken Identity which links more obviously with the top pitch of Pilgrims. As a complete route it works well, but doesnt make the top pitch any easier. Joe did a brilliant job leading this one. Gear is OK but the balancey nature of the climb makes placing it difficult. Lots of small crimpy holds, careful footwork makes for a top route.
Joe on the top belay of Pilgrims
Dave and Chris were on Sunshine cracks, by all accounts a slightly run out HS with some tough moves and Tom found his usual degenerating pile of choss called Foxblood which led to Pete ageing a few years prematurely as Tom ran it out.
Once again, completely knackered we trudged back to Porthgwarra. For Tom myself and Joe it would be more of the same the following day as we were staying at Treen for the BMC meet.
Socket Wall – Severe 4b – Lead Crack in the Sky – E1 5b – Lead Exodus – VS 5a – Lead
Carn Barra was our second choice of venue, from the ‘cant make a decision crew’ in the van (Tom, Dave, Chris and Pete) but as it turned out it was the right one. With a quickly dropping tide and a small swell the main platform of CB was dry and we had access to some classic routes.
Socket Wall
Socket Wall was dry and we paired up to tackle two quite tough routes, Socket Wall and Cumbelloe. Both have physical starts and although the pro is decent neither are pushovers at the grade. They turned out to be good warm up routes for what was to come.
Chris moving up Cumbeloe HS 4b
The main event for me was an attempt at Crack in the Sky. I’d been meaning to have a go at another E1 and this was a route I’d had my eye on for some time. A difficult corner leads to a ledge and then comes the strenuous stuff. At first you cant see the holds, but once you’ve committed up onto the face the holds are there.
Pete finds the wobbly chock stoneThank god for arm bars!
When you reach the crack the jamming starts. Arm bars and fist jams help and there are some hidden edges in the crack but ultimately it is a power struggle and you need to keep going and use your feet as much as possible. I just made it with nothing left in the tank and a real sick feeling from the adrenaline rush. Amazing! One of the best climbs I’ve ever done just because of the effort it took to get to the top. Pete, after a little hesitation got stuck into CITS. The look on his face and Chris’s for that matter rivalled my own when they topped out. That top crack is great, matched equally by their smiles.
Pete fighting with the upper crack on Crack in the Sky
Meanwhile Dave and Tom were knocking off a few routes of their own. Peel Crack and Sleazy Corner to be precise. Two good V Diffs, especially Peel Crack which is atmospheric in its upper section. Both of them are growing in confidence each trip out.
Dave and Tom on Sleazy Corner a hard Difficult or V Diff in other words
A well earned lunch left just enough time for a quick assault on Axis and Exodus two VS’s on the higher Eastern platform. I went for Exodus which takes a line similar to Axis but branches off rightwards along a horizontal break. The traverse is great fun but there is a really tricky move up into the steep niche/crack and then another to reach the steeper ground. But its a really good climb as long as you avoid the rope drag and keep in touch with your belayer. Tom did a good job listening out for my jittery shouts, especially when my left hand cramped up due to a distinct lack of salt in my system.
Tom belaying on the Axis ledge
This whole event was capped off when Dave came up on his own because of time. Tom shimmied up Axis and Dave kept asking me to take in on blue. Typical of Sea cliffs, comms are not easy with the roar of the sea and wind. This would explain Daves suprise when I gleefully informed him that he was only on Yellow so what was the point of taking in Blue. Fortunately Dave had tied in on yellow and was past the unprotected traverse by then (all the pro was on blue). He would’nt have decked, but the swing would have been a long one!
God I love climbing.
The point where Axis and Exodus part company
Tom belaying on the Axis ledge
Socket Wall
Ian starting up Socket Wall
The first pumpy moves on Socket Wall
Chris moving up Cumbeloe HS 4b
The tricky middle section of Cumbeloe
Dave topping out on Socket Wall
The abb in
Ian on the opening corner of Crack in the Sky
Thank god for arm bars!
So pumped I was nearly sick
Pete finds the wobbly chock stone
Pete fighting with the upper crack on Crack in the Sky
Dave and Tom on Sleazy Corner a hard Difficult or V Diff in other words
Ochre Slab 1 – VS 5a – Alt lead (P2) Ding – VS 4c – Alt Lead (P2) Limpet Slab – V Diff – Second
On occasions the Ochre Slab area of Bosi is almost like a seperate venue to the main cliff. A large gulley seperates it from Raven Wall and whilst the well known multi pitch routes around the Doorpost area can be busy, this area has the feeling of seclusion.
Looking out towards Commando Ridge
And it was like that on this day. I’d earmarked Paragon initially, but OSR1 was clear and I’d always wanted to have a crack at the wild chimney on its final pitch.
With Dave and Tom tackling the classic Black Slab we scrambled our way across to the start via some soloing. OSR1 has two completely contrasting pitches. The first is all about finesse with a crux that involves traversing blind around the arete on the right. Pro’s ok but it’s a tricky move and you have to have faith that there is something there for your feet and hands. Chris made it look easy, finding the invisible holds and foot placements and looking like he was thoroughly enjoying himself. The whole line flows very nicely and although the top slab is bold, the climbing is not tough as you get higher.
Dave on Black Slab
The chimney is entirely different. Still requiring a bit of faith that holds will come, it’s all about pulling up into the space and then searching out the jugs. My first attempts, while Tom was belaying directly below were abandoned on account of my landing on his head if I fell. After a nervous couple of minutes I hauled up and ‘behold’ it all becomes clear how its done. Just have faith!
Dave leading Ochre Slab Route 2
Chris and I moved onto Ding while Tom and Dave went for OSR2 a fitting companion to our previous route and a brilliant climb as well. Chris got the first pitch of Ding which to be honest is the best one. He remarked later how all the climbs on this day seemed to flow and this is particularly the case with Ding. It follows a superb line up the face with a series of hard moves.
Ian demonstrating how not to chimney
My ventures on the second pitch once again exposed my failings on chimneys. Still, I had fun and the final swing out on the overhang (we were off route by this time, probably on Dong) capped two amazing routes. Big smiles all around then and only one course of action…..
To the Cove for a swim!!!!
and jump!
Having cooled off nicely on what was a baker of a day we finished on two side by side routes at Halldrine Cove, which Dave and Tom led. Contrasting, mine which Tom led, was an exposed arete and Chris’ which Dave led was an akward chimney. Both done really well by their respective leaders.
Dave and Tom leading at Halldrine
Tom and Dave are coming on really fast with their leading. I remenisced with Chris on the fact that it took a couple of years for us to get to the same stage that they are at after a few months. The big difference I suppose is that Chris and I had to learn everything for ourselves and we had no one to push us. Didnt stop us having fun though and this year we’re checking out E1’s so we got there in the end.
Chris on Shrimpet
Oh Yes! Nearly forgot about the encore. A pod of Risso’s Dolphins appeared literally as we finished the day. Could it get better. Yes. A stop for a beer at Zennor capped what was a truly memorable day.
Tom checking out the dolphins off Halldrine
Tom checking out the dolphins off Halldrine
Dave on Black Slab
Dave leading Ochre Slab Route 2
Looking out towards Commando Ridge
Ian demonstrating how not to chimney
Belay on Ding
The amazing walk out to Halldrine over the top from Bosigran
Gravity Slab – VS 4c – Lead Green Streaks – VS 4c – Lead Loose Limpet Crack – HS 4b – Second
Just incredible
So it was back to Tregiffian. Such an incredible place and so much climbing was irresistable. This time we had Pete and Chris in tow, so it was their turn to experience the thorn jungle approach. In fact the whole walk in on this day was pretty arduous. Really hot and with the recent rain the nettles, brambles and hawthorn seemed to have exploded.
The boulder cave entrance
So once there we did the obvious and jumped in the sea (which was still hypothermic). What a brilliant place to swim. There is a natural swimming pool there and with the sun and turquise water it was like being in the mediterranean without the warmth. Tom’s reference to the whole experience being slightly Brokeback Mountain didnt phase anyone, although Tom’s posing on a boulder was slightly dubious.
Ian about to set off on the amazing but bold Gravity SlabPete on the crux of Gravity Slab
My first route of the day was gravity slab. Tregiffian has the habit of serving up a variety of good climbs at VS and GS didnt disappoint. Completely different to Acid Test, GS is mostly about one move. But it is bold, both in the lower section and on the crux. The crux is a mantleshelf, out wide from your last piece of gear (which is bomber) so it feels very exposed. Also it’s not easy, making you rely on small crimps and smears to get you over the top. It scared me, but that’s what it is about really. Just the start Chris, Pete and I needed.
Dave finishing off Exit at Tregiffian
Meanwhile Dave and Tom were working their way up Exit so we all met back at the top of the crag. After descending back down we were alittle trapped by the tide. There was no swell but the pool below Loose Limpet Crack was still a bit deep so we went for Green Streak.
Pete on the first and tough pitch of Green StreakIan negotiating the slime on Green Streak's second pitch
OK, so this one doesnt look too bad from the bottom but once again it is a real fight. The finger crack is strenuous and difficult to read. The crux move takes some working out on the first pitch, and pro is hard to place. When Chris followed later most of his gear ended up in the rock pool below, but he just wanted an epic – which he got. Pete though made it look easy a good indication of how his climbing is coming on this year.
Suprisingly the second pitch which goes through slimy green rock and a waterfall is great fun. After the strain of the first it adds some fun and I loved it. Even when the water started traveling down my belay setup it just provided a bit of cooling.
Chris getting balanced on Acid Test
Whilst I was on Green Streak, Chris was working his way up Acid Test. Talking to him later he had the same ordeal I did, needing to work out how to tackle the crack. Still the climb of the crag in my opinion.
Cooling my feetDave styling on Loose Limpet Crack
Dave had been eyeing up the main face and a great looking V Diff called Loose Limpet Crack. Harder than anything else Dave has done, this was a proper challenge. It involves two transfers from one crack to another, the first being the crux. Dave cruised through it, providing a fitting end to what was a fantastic day.
Tom high on Loose Limpet Crack
What I find startling is that having done so many top climbs here, there still seems to be loads more. I’m sure we’ll be back soon, hopefully before the end of the summer for another swim.
The Scillonian cruising by.
The boulder cave entrance
Ian about to set off on the amazing but bold Gravity Slab
Pete on the crux of Gravity Slab
Chris soloing high up on the main face
Pete goes bold… or does he?
Dave finishing off Exit at Tregiffian
Waiting for the tide to drop back
Chris getting balanced on Acid Test
Belay ledge on Green Streak
Ian negotiating the slime on Green Streak’s second pitch
Pete on the first and tough pitch of Green Streak
Dave styling on Loose Limpet Crack
Cooling my feet
Dave on the final transition to the awkward finishing crack.
Mascara – VS 4c – Lead Sams Indirect finish to bending chimney – VS 4c – Second
We needed somewhere dry and not blown away by the fresh breeze and Trewavas seemed a fair bet. For Chris it was his first visit and for Dave it was a return after a fairly lengthy break. In fact when he was last here I was just starting off with my own climbing and I remember well how I struggled to get going on Joy.
Stunning!
On this excursion I picked an adjacent climb called Mascara. I’d seen a photo online and ever since wanted to have a crack at it. The initial section is straight forward until you reach the top of the corner underneath the overhang,
The scary bit on Mascara
Then it gets interesting. A long bridge opens up the arete and you need to swing out and pull up onto the face around the corner. Tricky but just keep looking for the holds and you’ll find them.
Chris getting flexible with Mascara
I actually found the top crack the most nervewracking, because of the lack of decent pro. It’s not difficult but adds an edge to the end of the climb. Mascara gets a thumbs up in my book though. A top climb.
Bending Chimney - A classic route
Deviously I suggested Sams indirect finish to Bending Chimney as a possible lead for Chris. Having done the top section as part of Flanker a few weeks back with Pete I knew what he was in for.
Probably the crux move on SIFTBC
And it didnt disappoint. Chris cruised through the chimney and came to an abrupt stop at the base of the crack. The usual result in my experience.
Dave trying a layback on SIFTBC
The biggest factor is the sudden exposure and then going from relatively relaxed climbing in the chimney to strenuous work getting up the initial part. of the narrow crack. With the pump on from the start Chris found himself running out of energy with 3 feet to go. The result was a desperate push for the top before the arms gave out. This time Chris made it and deprived us of the spectacle of a lob off the steep face. A really top effort.
Dave on the top crack of SIFTBC
With so many climbs in a small area we’ve plenty more to go back to. Including South Groove an E1 I ‘ve been meaning to have a go at for a while.
Thea – Severe 4a – Second Acid Test – VS 4c – Lead Prior Claim – Severe 4a – Second
The hardest part about climbing at Tregiffian is getting there. A solid walk in from Boskenna Cross gets you to a low granite wall and a very indistinct path that just disappears into massive stinging nettles and brambles.
Tregiffian in all its glory
A machette would be handy here, but after getting scratched and stung in the cliff jungle you burst out onto a glorious meadow which sits above the crag. There below is Tregiffian, a small amphitheatre of ochre granite. It’s beautiful.
Dave high on TheaThea top to bottom
Finding your bearings takes a while, but if you follow the rocky buttress on the right facing out you come to a cave made out of precariously balanced boulders. This leads to the main crag. The swell meant the far side of the crag was wave washed an unaccessable even at low tide, but there were a number of routes close to the cave. The first of which was Thea which Dave set about leading.
Dave on the crux of TheaTom just above the crux of Thea
Graded Severe, Thea has a tricky and poorly protected crux. The rock is a bit suspect too in the lower reaches, but the higher you get the better everything becomes, culminating in some brilliant face climbing below the pinnacle. A good climb in my books and a great first Severe lead for Dave.
Tom in the niche of Prior Claim
Tom lead the last climb of the day, Prior Claim, also his first severe, making it a landmark day. This was a complete contrast in technique to Thea. Protection was good throughout, but there were a number of exposed and tricky moves, both low down and near the top.
Dave about to step out on Prior Claim
Riding high on the rounded crest of the ridge, it is spectacularly placed and was agreat climb to finish the day on.
Ian about to start the crack of Acid TestLooking down from the belay of Acid Test
Sandwiched in between these two was my lead on Acid Test. It is worthy of it’s stars. Innocuous from the ground it proves a lot more trcky when you get up to it. I thought it was a hand traverse, but instead in became an exercise in balance, requiring some contortions to place gear.
Looking across at Acid Test the right to left thin rising crack.
As much as it scared the pants of me at first, I thought it was excellent and I want to do it again – this probably says it all about how much I rate it.
Dave soloing high above Acid Test
The walk back out was long and hard and we were all knackered by time we got to the car (having chased a fox out of the adjacent field). Tregiffian is already marked in my diary for an early return. This time with the full crew and with a smaller swell so we can tackle the whole crag. Oh yes and with a fishing rod!
Dave on the crux of Thea
Dave high on Thea
Dave moving up the top face of Thea
Thea top to bottom
Tom just above the crux of Thea
Dave on Acid Test
Looking down from the belay of Acid Test
Tom finishing off Acid Test
The slightly wet walk back to the gearing up spot
Dave soloing high above Acid Test
Tom in the niche of Prior Claim
Dave about to step out on Prior Claim
Looking across at Acid Test the right to left thin rising crack.
Tregiffian in all its glory
Ian about to start the crack of Acid Test
Why it never rains on a Friday!
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