All posts by dillwat

Yoga is good for you

July 14, 2014 dillwat Leave a comment

14th July 2014

Doyden Point

Caprice – VS 4c – Second
Lotus – E1 5b – Lead

Ever since I seconded Lotus with Nick 4 yrs ago I have wanted to return. One to lead the route and second to reclimb what is one of the most memeorable climbing experiences I’ve had.

Dave had a hankering to get on Caprice as well so we rocked up on the dull grey day to contemplate the awful abseil in. Its a choice between descending in amoungst loose rock or dropping over an edge into nothingness. Given that we didnt have the ab rope this meant using my old 10mm dynamic so it was nice and bouncey.

Doyden is both spectacular and scary/intimidating. Fortunately the surf was small, but there was a good wind going and the drizzle as we descended didnt bode well. However as the day progressed so did the weather; into a bright sunny day.

Dave thoroughly enjoyed Caprice, a tricky VS which traverses the lower face on mainly good rock. It has its moments though and can be intimidating in its middle section which needs a steady head. A good spike runner settles things for a while but the scoop in the centre of the face only provides mediocre pro.

Lotus is probably the single best E1 I’ve led along with Rock Idol. It can be broken down into two sections. The initial crack which is pumpy and tough going. Move fast or burn out. Followed by a traverse across really expose ‘out there’ territory. Both are amazing but the move onto the sloping shelf are particularly memorable. Just amazing.

With the tide pushing and the weather closing in Dave and I checked out Kellan Head which is well worth a visit, especially with this being such a dry year. One for our weekday evenings.

Climbing

Straight forwardly harrowing

July 11, 2014 dillwat Leave a comment

11th July 2014

Hippa Rock

Coitionary Tales – HVS 5 a – Lead
Virgo – VS 4c – Second

I always enjoy a trip to the Culm. This one was full of promise as we were heading for Oldwalls Point. In the end the descent defeated us with a mix of loose shale and thick gorse. As we dropt down the path became less distinct and more treacherous. In the end ignorance and uncertainty got the better of us and we decided to abandon this attempt and head for Hippa Rock instead which according to the guidebook was a straight forward scramble down the point.

Wrong!!! After eventually finding an indistinct path we came to a steep gulley full of loose manky rubble and looking like it was ready to fall down the same chute of a recent landslip. Every step was one of uncertainty and dread for me. I hate loose shit and this really was shit. From then on it was just one more pile of teetering rubble after another.

The climbs though were worth it ( I think). Coitionary Tales is a diagonal crack climb of top quality. Some very thoughtful moves greet the climber and it has a sting in the tale with the crux occurring in the final moves. I loved it.

Dave’s VS was no pushover either. The main body is solid 4c but if you finish it directly the top moves are solid with a very sketchy move onto a smooth slab. 5a+ IMO or harder if you miss the hidden holds. A good lead by Dave who put in some air time as a reward for his efforts.

The tide eventually drove us away and into the jaws of the walk out which was equally as unenjoyable as the walk in. Still it was a beautiful evening and you can’t complain too much when you have great adventure and this was yet another one.

Climbing

Falling on hard times

July 5, 2014 dillwat Leave a comment

5th July 2014

Rosemergy Towers

NC Madness – VS 4c – Lead
Go Shorty – E2 5c – Second (dnf)
Hard Times – E1 5c – Lead (dogged)
Boulder Problem – HVS 5b – Second

Where do you go when the BMC meet is on and most venues will have climbers galore. Rosemergy seemed a good bet although we were joined by another couple for a change.

Climbing

Block Party

May 16, 2014 dillwat Leave a comment

17th May 2014

Bashers Harbour

Footloose – VS 4c – Lead
The Flake – VS 4c – Lead (Dogged)
Mince Pie Problem – Diff – Solo

Everyones entitled to do something stupid once in a while. It helps if the consequences of that stupidity wont be fatal.

In hindsight and after reading an article on UKC titled ’10 ways to stay alive while climbing’ I wish I had done things differently. Maybe taken a bit more time thinking things through. The Flake turned out to be a bit of a nightmare really. A very hard (and wet) start with a nice 2ft square moving block finale. All of which added up to Tom not being able to second me because of the danger of the whole lot going. As dodgy as my abseil looked this was not really the danger point. It was backed up by two bomber nuts. The danger was the top blocks breaking loose while I was cleaning my gear and pulverising me.

Half of my rack was commited into the climb so the consequences of not retrieving it would be expensive. But gear is meant to save your life, not put it in danger. £200-£300 is a small amount in the scheme of things. Maybe next time I’ll just leave it and renew my rack.

View back to Dave and Chris on the initial buttress.

That adventure aside, the other climb we did was brilliant. Footlosse is balancy, edgy and technical. Pro is adequate but not abundent, but altogether it is a super climb. Setting up the belay can be tricky as Chris found out, having to down climb back to a safe spot. And its not comfortable, but its worth it.

As is all of Bashers Harbour. A lovely (if loose place), with a remote feel to it and a real spirit of adventure. We had it all on this day; falling rocks, dodgey abseils and a tide that waits for no man and nearly claimed Dave and Chris’s rucksacks, except for the quick witted Tom who leapt across the bolder field to rescue them.

The day ended with the demise of my long suffering Lumix Camera as it finally gave it up after having been bashed around the cliffs for 3 years and a solo on Mince Pie Route. Quite enough excitement for one day.

Not quite as bad as it seems as two nuts on the route would protect a failure. But still poor.

Climbing

Blood Brothers

May 9, 2014 dillwat Leave a comment

9th May 2014

Logan Rock

Lightning Crack – HVS 5a – Lead
The Wormhole – V Diff – Solo

God I hate the guide book comments on Logan Rock. For the most part the Climbers Club Guide is brilliant, but they had an aberation when it came to Logan Rock. Normally I pick up one route and from there everything falls into place. Not here. Everything is so vague you cant even pick one out.

Still after a little tantrum early on Pete and I set off on one of our ‘Adventures’! It was so much fun. Abbing in with the tide pushing and swell charging into Castle Boot Zawn. Hanging just above the surge made for an exctiting belay and the initial moves meant dropping down to sea level and quickly moving back up before a wave got you. Speed climbing.

Me posing at the belay in Castle Boot Zawn

We negotiated the initial moves setting up an improvised belay part way up the groove to avoid rope drag. It’s all a little off balance but great climbing. Then the main event. The pull up into Lightning crack through an overhang. Well protected but scary. And after a few good holds its all jamming. My footwork was appalling resulting in me getting stuck lying along with my right foot jammed. After some serious grunting and heavy breathing I managed to untie myself and get some poise back. Then its a balancy mantle onto the face and its all done. Simples… Except I left blood all over the place in my desperate attempt to untangle myself. Its amazing how adrenaline masks the pain of jamming in sharp crystaline cracks. I’m feeling it today though.

Meanwhile Dave was finding out about Logan Rocks serious issue with undergrading. The two HS cracks are probably VS and E1. The whole place is full of great potential but a lot of it is hard.

Dave wondering how an HS can be so hard!

The end of the day saw Tom and Dave working some of the hard routes on the short face in the main bay (Crack 1 and 2 area). Pete and I undertook some caving finding a bizarre route which worked its way from the bottom to the top via hollows between jammed boulders and narrow gulleys and chimneys. Probably not a new route but I call it ‘The Wormhole’ and grade it V Diff just because its so f@#!k#$g awkward and tight. Pete is coming along great guns and his confidence is soring. We both solo’d the whole route. Never high, but committing all the same. More fun than chasing cats!

The Logan Rock Inn provided a fitting end to an amazing day in a stunning breath taking location. How can you not feel happy when you have this on your doorstep.

Climbing

Vegetables are good for you. Sometimes…

May 2, 2014 dillwat Leave a comment

2nd May 2014

Pen Olver – The Lizeard

Lying Eyes – Severe 4a – Lead
The Womb Tomb – Severe 4a – Second
The Giant Carrot – E1 5b – Lead
Sesame Street – V Diff (Ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha………!! ) – Second

Before we even got to Pen Olver I knew I would end up preoccupied with The Giant Carrot. I’d checked it out on our previous visit but didnt have the nerve to do it. This time I thought I’d better give it closer attention.

Pen Olver was looking its best. Calm seas. light winds and a cool temperature. Typical spring day really. Chris and I paired up, with Tom, Dave and Pete in the triumvate. I suspect Pete felt that Dave and Tom might give him an easier time of it so he could rest his damaged leg. I think maybe he was wrong here as Dave set off on the brilliant but tricky ‘The Peoples Queen’. Pete who has been climbing superbly recently had time to squeeze in an ascent of Lying Eyes, my first lead of the day as well. No rest for the …..

Lying Eyes is short but OK. A good warm up route and it gets you to the top of the pinnacle which is always a treat. Looking across at Dave fighting his way up TPQ ,I think Chris and I had the easier option but Dave despatched yet another VS to add to his growing list.

Chris then subjected himself to a bit of ‘trollism’ as he negotiated the fantastic ‘ The Womb Tomb’. Anyone who goes to Pen Olver should do this climb. It is excellent. The final exposed traverse just caps off what is a truly different experience form most climbs. And the famous cave painting is still there. Or is it a fake??

So onto my main event. Or would it be? From below I thought I had this one sussed.But once on it, it becomes a different beast. Not sure I agree that there are small wires to be had on the traverse. I placed two in what appeared to be good slots, only for one of them to shatter when Chris removed it. A crucial cam in the face settled my nerves and I was away. It was scary, but scary good. A few difficult moves later I was sucking in air on the arete and feeling decidedly sick. Way too much adrenaline. But what a buzz. I was soooo pleased to get this one, especially after making a couple of false starts.

The adrenaline wasnt finished for the day though. Chris was scratting around for a lead wanting something around HS but not finding anything. So he settled for a really good looking line called Sesame Street. Given V Diff in the book. V Diff My Arse!! I always trot out the saying that if it looks hard from the ground, it is hard.

Chris found this out, battling up the route and getting a real shock at its difficulty. Looks like he got his VS, because I rekon this was the more appropriate grade. It made for a fitting end to what was a great day out. Tom spent a lot of the afternoon racking up leads on the Main Face with Pete. Looks like Pete might get his 60 after all.

Climbing

Tolkeins World

April 25, 2014 dillwat Leave a comment

25th April 2014

The Dewerstone

Central Groove – HS 4b – Alt lead
Silken Thread/Imperialist – HSV 5a – Lead

The Dewerstone is a long haul from Newquay but its worth it and on a day of repeats like these your time and money are well spent.

Central Groove is undeniably one of the best HS’s around and Dave got his chance to lead P1 which is just awesome. There were a few other climbers around on this day, but dont get me wrong, it wasnt busy. I still get a real feeling of being in place that was created from a novel like LOTR. Twisted trees, thick lichen, bird song and the sound of the river all add to the impression.

Climbing up through the canopy is always fun and sat on the belay ledge while Dave brought up Tom, I got the chance to just savour the whole experience. I dont think there is anywhere better to be in the world when you get days like this.

I knew Silken Thread/Imperialist would get my blood flowing. It feels bold to start and the entire first pitch seems off balance. Its a good route though and the second pitch exposed my lack of strength training this year. Time to beef up a bit me thinks.

A nice snooze on the way back made the trip quick. Tom’s new car is too comfortable, thats the problem.

Climbing

E one’abies

April 18, 2014 dillwat Leave a comment

18th April 2014

Trewellard – Main Face

Sundog – E1 5b – Second (dogged)
Shambhalla – E1 5b – Lead

It has been a while since Joe and I have climbed together, so it was really good to get back to old ways again. I had forgot Joe’s habit of looking at the hardest route on a crag and then going for it. But this time it paid dividends.

I’ve been on a few of the faces at Trewellard but Joe’s abseil dropped us straight onto the main face and a couple of really top routes. The first, led by Joe was Sundog.

Even from below the crux looked tough, going through a slightly overhanging bulge of rock with little pro and small finger holds. It was a top effort by Joe who pulled through the section after getting in some high gear. Unfortunately I wasnt so fortunate. The small crimps beat me and with only inches to go I peeled off. Its a shame because the rest of the climb was tricky but manageable. Clearly Joe’s efforts on the training walls we have scattered at our various houses has paid off and I think I might be following him up some even harder routes this year.

Meanwhile Bart and Tom were gradually working thier way through the routes on the West Face which was basking in warm sunshine. I always found these to be bold for their grade, but quality climbing. Both Tom and Bart were leading building up their confidence no doubt for Sardinia.

Speaking of which, this was the first occasion the full island crew were together as Dave and Chris were have an exciting time on Return of the Lemming a bold VS on Goldsworthy Buttress. So this is what we can look forward to??

My lead was on Shambhalla, an HVS in the book but an E1 on UKC. I think it was probably somewhere in the middle. A hard HVS or an easy E1. Although I didnt find the crux and mid section easy, struggling again to get my head into gear. I did it though and that is great and a real confidence booster. Definitely not as hard as Joe’s E1.

Bart, Tom and I succumbed to ‘lightweightedness’ a left a bit earlier as the temperature dropped quickly. The sun was still shining on the other three as they grabbed a final Severe on the Main Face. I’m looking forward to climbing with Joe a bit more this year. It pushes my grades and adds a bit of excitment and fun to events.!!!

Climbing

Stone’d

April 4, 2014 dillwat Leave a comment

4th April 2014

Boscawen / Union Star Cove

Luke Skywalker – Severe 4a – Lead
Stone – VS 4c – Lead

The theory was that being early in the year we wouldnt get ourselves completely skagged trying to get into Tregiffian. That was the theory anyway. But it turned out Boscawen was the real villan in this piece and Alex who had joined us found this out when he became trapped in amoungst a dense patch of gorse and brambles.

I’ve been to Boscawen twice before but could I remember the descent route? We ended up going way too left and having to track through some viscous thorn and gorse before finally finding the arch. This always marked the way in to me so we dropped our bags here and abbed into the main face.

Boscawen clearly isnt getting much traffic at the moment. The cracks are very vegetated and placing pro is a bit of a mare. Luke Skywalker is strange for a Severe. A straight forward easy first two thirds followed by a very committing final section which feels very thin.

Mind you, the hardest part for me was finding my way back up. I managed to get myself stuck in a corner and had to aid my way out. Not sure that was the correct way???

The walk to Tregiffian was stunning at this time of year. Its as if the cliff has burst into life shoing off its colours and plantlife. At times you could have thought it was planned but its just nature making the most of things.

Like a garden but actually the coast path.

Then it was on to tregiffian where we discovered my tide predictions were also lacking in judgement. With a bit of swell running and a pushing tide the main face was no longer an option. Dave and Tom set up for Exit which is out of reach of the tide for a while.

Alex and I went scouting around Union Star Cove and came across a real gem of a climb. It took some finding requiring a short abseil and some scrambling but Stone is a really step and exciting VS. Good pro but some tough moves and quite strenuous with only one real rest spot.

It made for a great climb and Alex who hasnt been for a while did really well cleaning this one. After my first selfie it was pack up for the long hard walk back out to Boskenna Cross. There are two more routes on the Stone face that I will return to. They both look brilliant and this spot is a real find.

Climbing

Clouds to right of them, Clouds to left of them, Clouds in front of them, Volley’d and thunder’d;

March 21, 2014 dillwat Leave a comment

21st March 2014

Bosigran

Venusberg – VS 4c – Lead

Ok a bit over dramatic but as has been typical of 2014 the weather was iffy. We spent the day watching dark squalls slowly travelling cross the ocean passing to our left and right, but somehow missing us. Tennyson’s poem seemed apt. How we escaped the rain I dont know but we did and I’m grateful for that.

Pete and I teamed up to have a go at Venusberg while Dave and Tom went off to do Ding. Chris had done Venusberg a while back with Nick and I’d always wanted to try it. Described as one of the more technical VS’s at Bosi it lived up to its reputation. The four pitches have a bit of everything. Pitch one deals out a tough mantleshelf, some abck and fronting up the back of the pinnacle, run out balancy climbing on pitch 3 and a very windy exit on pitch 4.

I think that Pete may have enjoyed this one more than me judging by the massive grin he ws sporting. A real adventure on a day when we had no right to expect to be able to climb. Lucky us!

M	T	W	T	F	S	S
	1	2	3	4	5	6
7	8	9	10	11	12	13
14	15	16	17	18	19	20
21	22	23	24	25	26	27
28	29	30

The Magik Rock

All posts by dillwat

Yoga is good for you

Straight forwardly harrowing

Falling on hard times

Block Party

Blood Brothers

Vegetables are good for you. Sometimes…

Tolkeins World

E one’abies

Stone’d

Clouds to right of them, Clouds to left of them, Clouds in front of them, Volley’d and thunder’d;

Why it never rains on a Friday!