A late start meant that Pete and I only had time for one route and Mouseproof proved to be a worthwhile undertaking.
The big Reach
For a Severe it is quite bold. Pro is tricky to find and a couple of the balancy moves require you to gain height before placements become available. I really liked it and enjoyed the exposure of the final moves.
Dave high on Avalanche Direct
Meanwhile Dave, Chris and Tom were on Avalanche having a go at the direct variation. This is an entirely different proposition to the regular route. Much thinner in the top section and much more difficult. Dave could testify to this as he put in some air time during a valiant attempt to clean the final few moves. Pete managed to sail through Avalanche making the top moves look fairly tame. They’re not!
Pete on Avalanche
A short day really, but hopefully just a taster for what is to come.
Pete on Avalanche
Chris on Avalanche Direct
Dave about to start the top moves of Avalanche Direct
Tom and I had intended to try Sensible Shoes at Robins Rocks, but the big swell and damp conditions made the slab shiny and slick. So we retreated with a view to doing Right Angle.
Moody Gurnards Head and the view back towards Carn Gloose
Robins rocks looks a great venue though and one we need to get back to when the conditions are right. Right Angle was wet in places but generally ok. The long traverse in resulted in the usual rope drag. This makes the VS section a bit more tricky as you have to make sure you pull enough slack through to ensure you dont get pulled off.
The long traverse. Plenty of rope drag
I had just enough ‘draws and gear to get through and rig a decidedly dodgy belay. It was safe, but it didnt look safe. The big No 4 Camelot added a bit of re assurance.
Well, its a belay…. of sorts
The big surf made coms haed as well but Tom made a good job of the traverse. Its pretty lonely when you disappear into the niche and lose sight and sound of your belayer as the floor drops away.
The 4b section
The second pitch was as good as usual. Its quite amenable, but there is enough climbing in it and exposure to make it wild and exciting. A quick slip on some wet rock got my heart going and concentrated my mind.
Tom in a dramatic situation.
A pint at the Gurnards Head pub finished what was a classic autumn days climbing. Grey sky’s with the odd patch of stunning pale gold sunlight. Very beautiful and a good way to spend your day.
Tom in a dramatic situation.
Toms starts off on 2nd Pitch
The 4b section
Tom after the tricky niche
Moody Gurnards Head and the view back towards Carn Gloose
No Number – VS 5a – Lead Monday Face – VS 4c – Second Overmarked – HS 4a – Lead Sinners Route – Diff – Solo Juniors Route – Diff – Solo Seniors Route – Diff – Solo
Damp conditions alwyts temper how you approach a days climbing. Despite a favourable forecaste Sennen was slow to dry on this day and as a result we throttled back on our grades.
Are we high enough
Having said that, No Number, my opening route prooved more than a challenge for the conditions. Holds full of water, moist cracks (oooh errr) and unreliable foot placements made it full on. The rising run of flakes is slightly overhanging and therefore fairly strenuous until you reach the base of the upper cracks. Great climbing, but the twin crack finish wasnt on for this day. They were running with water so I detoured onto No Name for a much easier but spectacular finish.
Behind you!
Monday face has all the holds but needs a steady head. Pro is tricky to come by and the strenous positions make it akward to place. Chris enjoyed this one. An ideal route for the conditions. Meanwhile Dave and Tom were on SkrewCrack, which again was probably worth another grade given the conditions. A good lead by Dave who’s consolidating his grades nicely.
Chris on No Number and Dave on Skrewcrack
Overmarked is a weird route. Its basically a couple of moves through an overhang, but is really powerful for a short period. Get your body shape wrong and its a lot more difficult as Chris and I both found.
Dave on Skrewcrack
Unusually for the two of us, Chris and I ended the day with a bit of soloing. Only on the diffs in the Church Window area but it certainly adds a buit of spice to your climbing. What would ordinarily seem simple suddenly becomes a major issue. That said, I think it is good for your climbing as you end up concentrating on just the climbing without all the paraphanalia that normally accompanies leading.
Dolphins! Guaranteed to put a smile on your face.
Very refreshing and the sight of Dolphins just makes you feel good to be alive.
Silent Movie – VS 4c – Lead Quo Vadis – E1 5a -Lead Sirius – HS 4b – Second
After what has seemed to be forever the bright weather came back. Friday turned out to be clear skies and little wind. The south facing Coastguard Cliff provided the perfect warm, sunny venue for Dave, Tom and myself.
Moody Coastguard Cliff’s
Dave and I had had a couple of outings to Hawks Tor in the rain and fog, but on each occasion the weather limited our efforts. This time we could go for it with dry positive rock. I’d done Silent Movie with Chris and remembered how good it was. A committing climb where you need to hunt out pro. But the holds are excellent and the climbing thrilling and exposed.
Dave cruising Silent Movie
Having warmed up it was straight onto Quo Vadis. I figured with the bunch of crocks I was with I’d better pick a jug hauling route rather than a finger stretcher. QV provided this. It has two crux’s. The first is a thuggy haul over an overhang ontothe face. The second is a delicate rising crack which can be tackled in a number of ways.
Tom showing he’s got balls – Quo Vadis
Tom and I laid back and Dave went out onto the face to the crimpier holds. Both ways are great and the climb overall is worth doing. Typical of the venue. Strenuous start followed by face climbing. It also provided one of our best photos of Tom in the crack. Really exciting and reflects everything about the day.
Dave sat on the belay P1 Sirius
Dave wanted to get back into leading and took on both pitches of Sirius. This is also a really cool climb. Exposed with two contrasting pitches. A juggy but exposed traverse, followed by a more technical slab. It was a good lead as the climb is tricky throughout.
Dave leading P2 Sirius
It was a fitting end to a brilliant return to climbing ways. Cornwall as usual delivered on the ‘spectacular beauty’ front. The booming surf added to the atmosphere and provided lots of distraction when you heard a set thunder in sounding like it was going to engulf you. We are so lucky!
Tom P2 Sirius
Dave leading P2 Sirius
Dave sat on the belay P1 Sirius
P1 Sirius
The view towards Kynance Cove
A happy belay ledge
Tom showing he’s got balls – Quo Vadis
Tom about to traverse into the crack Quo Vadis
Dave cruising Silent Movie
Tom after the opening strenuous moves on Silent Movie
It’s not often that you can take a V Diff and turn it into an epic, but if you plan carefully you can do it. What you need initially is a slightly optimistic view of the weather conditions. Then add in low cloud which shrouds the Tor you have specifically picked out and covers everything in a layer of dew. Make sure it isnt often climbed so that the climb you’ve picked is out of condition and covered in mould and moss. Add in some wind, cool temperatures and a venue which requires delicate footwork on sloping rock and you’ve got it.
V Diff going on E1. Even the simplest move seemed daunting. Every time Dave and I found a good hold it was full of a pool of water. It made what could have been a dull day into a real adventure and we both loved it. Hawk’s Tor is always moody when the whether closes in. Its hidden away and remote and on this day all we could hear was the cows in the fields below moaning about the soggy ground. There’s something about being away from it all that is quite magical. One V Diff later and Dave and I left, two very happy individuals at one with our world.
Raven Gulley – Severe 4a – Alt Lead Outward Bound – HVS 4C – Lead (P1 Only)
We left Newquay with great ambition for the day ahead. Chris and I had targeted a series of HVS and E1’s at Haytor and Low Man which we intended to bag. Unfortunately mother nature had very different ideas about what we were going to accomplish and it wasnt going to be 100%.
It all started so well. Raven Gulley was a really cool climb to start on and get warmed up, but unfortunately by time we had finished it the wind was up and storm clouds gathering. Outward Bound was an obvious choice for number two. Well protected but grunty. On this day though it gave Chris a good hiding. The main factor is the that once commited into the overhang there is no let up. Its all power. On this occasion Chris didnt find the thank god jug and he’ll have to wait for next time to get it. I spent a while trying to free and awkward nut, but having done this felt I should have a crack. It would be churlish not to….
Maybe I should have checked what I’d been doing with the ropes because having lauched cavalier into the overhang I was stopped dead by twisted ropes so it was back down and start agian from the bottom. This time I managed it just in time for the heavens to open and kill the day.
170 mile round trip for a Severe. It was worth it!
Despite the loss of an old and faithful piece of Kit, I coudnt help but feel it was a fitting end for my No 3 CAM. As the third owner of the unit in what has obviously been a hard lifetime, I would have hated to see it rotting away in my shed for fear of use.
As it happened it was sacrificed in rather scary circumstances. Clawtrack is the lessor neighbor of the fabulous Lunakhod, although it does a good job of trying to match it. Described as requiring lots of big gear it probably wasnt the best choice for this day as we only had a limited amount. Still, with a wacking great pebble in my pocket I set off up what looks like a great line.
The line of Clawtrack
It didnt disappoint. As it happens you dont need masses of big gear. There are smaller placements to be found, just not in the obvious places. This resulted in me hanging onto my No 4 Camalot for the entire route and never using it. However the pebble proved to be invaluable for the top crack. The crux of the route is actually low down imo. Although the upper reaches are exposed they are not so technical or balancey.
Chris abbing off
Chris, on his first vist to Sharpnose, loved it right up to the point I told him we had to ab off the old tat at the top of Lunakhod. The ab is always a scary bit and having safely got to the bottom we decided to take the safe option and climb out on the high tide escape route.
Bad move… I missed the left turn and ended up in a big pile of loose, moving and steep shit. Some of the most scary moments of my climbing to date especially as bits rained down on Chris and large sections moved off their own accord. The yellow No 3 was sacrificed in a crappy crack which stood more cahnce of killing both me and chris if any weight was applied (it was for mental reassurance as by then I was about 40ft above my last piece of gear). Having got to safe ground I pulled the ropes and abandoned the gear, only saving the lower pieces by traversing back in on the correct route. Never again I say. Next time I’ll take the bold E2. Much safer.
Martell Slab – VS 4c/E1 5a – Alt Lead Pericles – HVS 5a – Lead
It was nice to be back climbing with Joe again after what has been a fairly long break. Martell Slab provided the stunning entertainment for the day.
Martell Slab is one of those climbs you always promise yourself, but never get around to doing. Probably because Tater Du is not the easiest crag in the world to get access to. It’s also not helped by the exorbitant charges levied at Lamorna Car Park. £7.00!!! £7.00 for gods sake….. The alternative is a longer walk in from Boskenna Cross. Next time this is what I will be doing cos its the last penny I put in their grubby, middle class, money grabbing hands.
Rant over and back to the important stuff. Martell Slab is great technical climbing with some tricky moves and so so gear on the first pitch. Finding the start isnt easy, but trend right of the slab and take the groove before moving out onto the slab proper. The move onto the slab is memorable and the remainder of P1 provides some nice technical climbing.
PI of Martell Slab
Joe was straight onto the E1 direct finish for P2. It keeps going straight up, through the groove. Well protected but strenuous it is pretty steep but classy climbing. The huge nest you pass full of bones and bits of dead things is a little un nerving though. Joe made easy work of this to cap off what was a really good climb.
E1 top pitch of Martell Slab
Meanwhile Dave and Tom were on their way up Crows Nest Ordinary, a route Joe and I did many years back. The top pitch of this one is always a test.
Nico coming onto the steep finishing face of Crows Nest Ordinary
Lichen covered and very steep it is quite daunting as Tom found out. It’s also very photogenic, with Joe and myself providing the audience for Toms epic.
Up there???
I had always wanted to do Pericles, a good looking route on Knights Pillar. It turned out to be harder than it looks, with fiddly gear and small crimpy holds. By time I finished my arms were screaming. I could tell I hadnt been out for a while.
I always enjoy going to Tater Du. It is a beautiful location and great place to climb with your mates. Makes you realise why we all love climbing in Cornwall so much.
Tactician – HVS 5a – Second Big Sea Running – E1 5b – Second
Sometimes you just have to get on with things and take a chance. Today was one of those days. We woke to heavy rain rattling the tent; an unlikely start for a good days climbing. But once it stopped and we stocked up on breakfasts, the sun was out and everything was back on.
The platform at the base of Tactician
We dropped into St Govans at a different point this time. Aiming for a large ledge system at the base of Tactician. This climb seems innocuous enough from the bottom, but soon moves into tough territory. Despite being 5a, I found that the crux move was as hard as anything I did during the entire trip. Possibly I just didnt do it very well, but it was powerful and committing. V Good lead by Nick on this one.
Nick approaching the crux of TacticianNick at the Crux
We re located to Stuntsmans Buttress following this, watching a rescue going on off Stennis Head for an unlucky climber who’d taken a fall. By all accounts he was thankfully OK.
The spectacular Huntsmans Leap
Nick’s enthusiasm for climbing never seems to wain. While I was admiring the spectacular Huntsmans Leap and keeping a close watch on the weather, Nick was contemplating having a go at an E1 near the mouth of the Leap. Passing by rather unusual litter in the form of a Starburst shell (This whole area is right next to a massive military range) we headed out onto Stuntsmans Buttress. My personal drive was on the ebb and the couple who’s ab rope we used to drop in on decided to sit it out and wait for the weather to improve.
Not the usual litter.
This explained the disappearing rope once we had descended as they abandoned their climbing day. So we’re at the base of an E1 in the drizzle, with what looks like an approaching deluge. What could go wrong? Nothing as it happens. Nicks full on optimism came up trumps. The rain missed us, the climb dried out really quickly and the route turned out to be very entertaining.
Nick eyeing up the descent to Big Sea Running
The perfect end of a trip and proof that if you think positively you make the most of every situation. The drive back was a good chance for reflection on what had been a brilliant trip. My first experience of Pembroke will ensure that I return time and again. I feel another climbing trip coming on.
Crithmum – VS 5a – Lead Joyous Gard – HVS 5a – Second Rock Idol – E1 5a – Lead
Mother Scaries as Nick told me it is sometimes called is just that. Scary. You pitch up at the top of what looks like a shear cliff (it is) and abseil into nothing.
It helped that Nick knew the area because I would image it is hard work getting your bearings on a first trip. Today was to be a day of real highs and sort of lows. But mostly highs!
Getting the ab ready
We started off on Crithmum, which proved to be a puzzling beginning. However hard we tried we couldnt match the guide book description with wht we were looking at. In the end I followed what I thought was the closest to the line described. The top turned out to be a real liability with loose rock and insecure holds. It turns out from online comments that Crithmum fell down around 2010 and the remains are graded at HVS not VS. I think this is more due to the precarious nature of the rock though.
Nick on the brilliant Joyous Gard after emerging from the cave.
Nicks lead on Joyous Guard was one of the most impressive of the trip. Strenuous with a really technical section high up, it was fantastic climbing. One of my favorite climbs of the trip to be honest. Moving out of the cave at the bottom gave a real sense of adventure and the suddenly appearing on a shear face gives this climb amazing exposure.
During the course of climbing Crismum I managed to chuck a whole set of nuts, krab included into the sea. My usual form in recent times. This seemed to cause me to completely lose my mind and led to an surreal moment back on the low tide platform where I frantically searched my body for the blue rope with the growing realisation that it was still at the top of the crag. In most places this would be a problem. In Mother Careys Kitchen it seemed a disaster.
The mercy swim
Fortunately ‘Marine Boy’ Nick thought nothing of swimming across the bay to ascend and retrieve it, thus saving my bacon. This was after he had also found my drowned nuts. All he needed was a cape!
What Nick did sort out by his actions was my opportunity to climb Rock Idol – thank God he did. It’s an amazing climb which contains everything. From the bottom I was seriously thinking that I was out of my depth as the route soared up through the corner and overhangs.
Didnt know I could bridge that far!!!
But once on the route I found some rhythm and was progressing well until I arrived at the overhang. A crisis of confidence ensued which I finally overcame launching upwards and finding that the holds just kept on coming. It is a special climb and one I will not forget for a long time.
Moving up to the scary stuff
The day was capped off with fajita’s and ginger beer ( and a bit of Italian wine). All’s well that ends well despite my attempts to sabotage the day.
Such good climbing on Rock Idol
Getting ready to tackle the overlap
Moving up to the scary stuff
Didnt know I could bridge that far!!!
The line of Rock Idol
There are some pretty spectacular caves at Mother Ivys
The mercy swim
The steep Joyous Gard
Nick on the brilliant Joyous Gard after emerging from the cave.
OK so we’ve got three mediocre anchors… lets go!
Getting the ab ready
Why it never rains on a Friday!
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