Tag Archives: Chris

Lets start as we mean to finish

June 6, 2013 dillwat Leave a comment

6th June

Calames – Ariege

Les Instantfataux – 5+ – Lead
Blues pour un chat noir – 5+ – Lead
Les Herbes Amieres – 5+ – Second
La Nauc – 6a – Lead (dogged)

We lucked into a quiet campsite in a little village called Aston,; in fact we were the first ‘campers’ of the season which entitled us to a free night and choice of any pitch on the site. Tucked away in a narrow valley it sits next to a fast flowing (very at this time due to snow melt) river, the roar of which keeps you constant company but doesnt detract from a good nights sleep.

We woke up on our first morning raring to go, so it was into the hired ‘Cashcow’ and off for a morning coffee in Tarascon. This leisurely approach meant we managed to arrive at the crag as the sun started beating down, a lesson quickly learned which we proceeded to ignore for most of our ventures to the crags. We were just not early risers.

The sunny weather by all accounts was unusual for 2013. Up to this point the weather in Ariege had been poor so it seemed a good omen. One of the most notable crags in Ariege is Calames. You can see it clearly from Tarascon and the number of different sectors makes it an obvious choice for an opening venue. Tom, Chris and I are used to some arduous walk ins. Cornwall has plenty of them, but with the heat the walk up through Bedeilhac and across the ridge felt tough.

As is often the case, finding your bearings is difficult, but we rocked up to Sector Le Papy without too many wrong turns. What I like about French Sport crags is that they write the name of the crag on the rock! How cool is that. It didnt seem to help us though as I picked out a three star 5 called Theiere de jardin and proceeded to immediately go off route and climb its neighbour Les Instantfataux which was a 5+.

This is something to bear in mind. The routes are tightly packed. Unlike the routes we are used to in Cornwall where an obvious line is picked (which could meander around a bit) the limestone routes sometimes just go straight up. Looking for a line is likely to take you off route on many pitches. Just follow the bolts. It makes for some different climbing as it pushes you through territory you might not naturally take on. At the same time it tends to make the climbs more difficult and sometimes a bit weird. By the time I left Ariege I was loving it, but to start with it feels a bit ‘false’.

So to the climbing. My first route, Les Instantfataux turned out to be a cracker. Both Chris and I led this one. I soon discovered that many limestone routes are about small crimpy holds and delicate footwork. I needed to trust my feet and work through some of the tricky technical sections. To be honest, on this first day I was struggling to be confident in my footwork, but this soon evapourated as I got a few routes under my belt.

Chris on the headwall of Blues pour un chat noir 5+

‘Blues’ turned out to be significantly harder, making me realise that there are 5+’s and 5+’s. Similar for the most part to LI, the headwall provides some hard technical climbing. It was around this point that I started to realise that my earlier view that 5+ equated to around VS 4c back home was seriously flawed. It seems that a 5+ tends to equate to 5b back home putting it nearer E1 at times, but obviously with bolts.

Tom on the first overhang of Les Herbes Ameres 5+

This of course is where the idea of comparing grades falls down. You can only really compare the technical grade for the most part. While I climb hard on trad routes, I definitely on the whole dont climb as hard as I had to on the sports stuff. This was a refreshing change, although it took me until almost the last day to switch off my trad head (with the little voice saying “dont fall, dont fall”).

Chris made a good job of the first pitch of Les Herbes Ameres, a tough 5+, before we decided to look at a 6a called Le Nauc. This is all about one sequence through a bulgy section and my head let me down big time. Daft thing is its well protected as the bolt is in exactly the right place (unlike some routes we did later on). Still a valuable lesson learned. Go for it…

The trudge back was made sweater when we stopped off in Tarascon for a Beer at Le Hotel Confort, a residence clearly aimed at the touring biker, but which served up ice cold Leffe beer overlooking the river.

Leffe time in Tarascon. Calames is the smaller outcrop dead center of the picture.

Back at the campsite, we commandeered the barbeque hut for our private kitchen/diner, a luxury we retained for the duration of out stay in Tarascon and had our first helping of Tuna Something. A very tasty dish which hit the spot, but the recepe for which is a closely guarded secret only known to Chris.

Starting to get very hot. Les Instantfataux

Chris taking abreather on Les Instantfataux

The campsite is tucked away in the valley.

Climbing

Just let it go……… FAT CHANCE!!!

May 24, 2013 dillwat Leave a comment

24th May 2013

Pedn-men-an-mere

Zip – VS 4c – Lead
Panos – HS 4b – Second
Bandwagon – E1 5b – Lead
Midnight Express – E1 5b – Lead (dog)

A brilliant day marred by my nemesis which as usual bit me on the arse.

Sheltered from the wing St Levans Wall was the perfect venue. With a good low tide we had plenty of time to play on the climbs on the lower tier as well.

To start though I had a go at Zip a VS with a tough start. I keep forgetting that VS are not there to warm up on and this one as usual reminded me of that as I struggled up the initial crack to be halted at a slightly bold mantleshelf. I actually enjoyed it though, the same of which can be said for Chris.

He started on Panos, an HS with a bite. The opening V goove isnt easy but the top move onto the pillar is made spicy if you stay right which seems to take you away from anything useful to pull over on. Tom and Dave intelligently went left which seemed a far more amenable finish. Still, one to get the heart going.

Bandwagon looks good from below and it didn’t disappoint. Good delicate climbing which requires good footwork and a steady head through the crux. Just our type of route really and we both loved it.

And so to the finale. What could go wrong after such a good start. Midnight Express beckoned me, and proceeded to teach me a lesson in humility and trash my bank account at the same time as 5 of my Nuts cascaded into the deep water filled trough below. Thats my third attempt. Its got to be fourth time lucky?

Still, it didnt detract from a great day out although it took a little while for the red mist to clear. One to get on again soon methinks.

Chris clearly enjoying himself on Bandwagon E1 5b

Climbing

I cant believe it’s not butter

May 17, 2013 dillwat Leave a comment

17th May 2013

The Horse (The Lizard)
Tie That Critta Down – VS 4c – Alt lead

A day for some exploration and a day where location was all important. We spent much of the day watching huge cumulonimbus forming over central Cornwall and unloading their payload.

However the Predannack area missed it all and was in beautiful sunshine for most of the day. More importantly we had planned it that way so boy were we smug!

The Horse, a remote venue is not just round the corner from the Predanack Farm parking as Chris and I had assumed. It’s actually a good 30-40 minutes walking, snaking along the coast path providing one stunning vista after another. On a sunny day with no wind and calm seas, this coast becomes magical. If the water temperature was higher for longer I dont think there would be anywhere better in the world. It’s a real privelege to be able to call this your backyard and take advantage of it so often. It’s why I stayed in Cornwall.

There is a remarkable ridge feature on the walk in. A sort of mini Commando Ridge, but somewhat less stable I think. It does look like a classic though and Chris and I have marked it for an early return this year. There could be some issues getting down to it but it looks a proper adventure.

The Horse is a startling promontory with a long access ridge finishing in a rounded pinnacle. The guide is not that clear on how to find the climbs and we spent a good amount of time getting our bearings. Basically, from the top point on the promontory, the routes are down to your right looking out to sea. Scramble down the broken and somewhat grassy slope as though you were heading towards Carn Vellan. Its a bit dodgy here. We used an ab rope for assistance but you could just scramble it. You eventually get to a sloping yellow ramp. Ab off left and it takes you down to the sea level ledges.

The coating of yellow moss adds another dimension; catch it wrong and you find youself starting to slide. At times it feels like you’re walking on butter! On the other hand it turns the cliffs into ‘Monet’ like paintings with the amazing yellows it produces.

Be warned if you anchor the rope at the top of the main promontory you intend to use it for the final ab you have about a foot of spare rope on a 50m so put a knot in it! Also it only gets you to the higher ledges; a 60m will get you to the bottom ledges.

Even when we got down there the routes are not obvious. They should be cos theres a striking crack and niche which is part of TTCD. We couldnt track down Queen of May at first and even later I’m not sure we got it right. We’ll need to come back and spend more time checking it out.

TTCD though was worthwhile. A tough and strenuous first pitch was tackled by Chris. It looks easier than it is (I’ve heard that a few times before). A tricky move gains the niche and exposed bridging gets you to the ledge. The rock I think is serpentine like, with a purple tinge to it. Not quite granite, but solid nevertheless. The top pitch is more broken- Chris described it as prehistoric which seems apt as it looks ‘old’.

Pitch two takes on the more suspect rock higher on the crag. Traverse right and move through jenga territory it some pretty exposed positions. Great climbing but the fact I pulled a fist sized lump of rock off tells it all.

A great day out and like old times for me and Chris. This is a ‘must return’ venue with loads more potential. and anyway the walk in is worth it in its own right,

Chris after the tough opening moves on Tie That Critta Down

Stunning Cornwall – wish the sea was warmer!

Climbing

Stars in our eyes

May 6, 2013 dillwat Leave a comment

6th May 2013

Pentire Point

Twilight – HS 4b – Second
Our Stars, Our Sky – VS 4c – Second

I wasnt sure that I would make this session, as it had been a hectic weekend, but with the sun out and a calm windless evening in prospect, it was too good to resist.

Chris arriving at the ramp after Pitch 1 OSOS

As it happened I arrived at just the right time. Dave had led Twilight and I grabbed a rope and seconded up after him. It’s a good climb too with a good move up into the crack/niche. Just the right antidote to get us all looking for more.

Given the conditions I couldnt help thinking that OSOS would be a good bet. The problem was getting four of us across the traverse was going to take time, but the sun would last.

Chris and Tom checking out the traverse... "what across there!" — Chris and Tom checking out the traverse… “what across there!”

After a guarantee of adventure to the others we set off to find the not so obvious abseil. With a good sized swell washing up the runnel, traversing into the base was also exciting. Came within a few inches of catching me out.

On this occasion the bottom pitch was a lot drier and was a good climb. The move around the nose requires a bit of thought, but to be honest it’s all about pitch 2 which Dave led. Probably a step up in the whole exposure/technical difficulty area for him but he seemed to breeze through it. There is a runout after the initial start for about 12 ft or so which adds spice, but the pro is so bomber and the drop so steep that it is a safe VS. Having said that its not an easy one and you need to factor in the exposure and feeling of being ‘out there’ the the route radiates.

Relief to have made it before the dark sets in.

Chris and Tom paired up as a second team and followed us across, meaning we finished in the gloom, but with a beautiful sky as the back drop. Not many other places I would rather have been on a day like this.

Tom tops out on Or Stars Our Sky in the gloom

Climbing

Indian Spring

April 30, 2013 dillwat Leave a comment

30th April 2013

Carn Gowla
Indian Buttress

Touch the Earth – VS 4b – Lead

The first evening session of 2013 saw us explore a new buttress at Carn Gowla. Indian Buttress is the furthest south of the major Gowla venues, but offers some great climbing.

Finding your bearings is a touch difficult though as we discovered. We abbed in down the obvious V groove in the west face but the descriptions in the guide are not easy to follow. It refers to a sea level ledge but to be fair the main ledge is well above sea level.

Still once we did establish things the climbs proved worthwhile (at least for me as I am a Gowla apologist unlike my compadre’s). I find the climbing here enthralling. Yes the rock can be suspect (like biscuit or razorblades depending what bit your on) and the pro barely adequate at times; it’s sharp, forbidding and exposed and belays are a nightmare; most climbs involve abbing in and the sea slamming into the cliffs offers a further dimension. For me this adds up to excitement and of all the venues we climb at, Gowla is the most adventurous. Clearly my colleagues dont see it that way as the evening was punctuated with curses and threats to never return.

Touch the Earth is deceptive. From below it is innocuous, but once you step out onto the face it brims with exposure and the holds are positive and solid. The finale is a steep slab where pro becomes less obvious but holds get better. Not sure it is VS; the lack of pro in the upper section may be why this grade is proposed, but Joeand I agreed it is well worth the two stars it gets in the guide.

Meanwhile Chris led Red Cloud a severe following an obvious crack to the right of the decent slab. This looked ood but I was advised is very sharp. Tom managed to break a few foot placements so maybe the grade will get harder the more it is climbed. I intend to try this one the next time out.

I now have my eye on some routes on the Sewerage Wall area, but it looks like I may have to rely on Pete for company on my next visit unless I want a mutiny.

Climbing

Dont forget your vitamin supplements

April 19, 2013 dillwat Leave a comment

Chudleigh Rocks

19th April 2013

Great Western – VS 5a – Alt Lead
The Slot – HVS 5a – Lead
Sarcophagus – VS 4b – Alt Lead

At last we have the first proper summer day. Chudleigh delivered on the sunshine and the fun and gave our wintery white pasty bodies a treat of Vitamin D and a boost of energy.

After a number of alternative locations had been considered we chose Chudleigh and as it turned out it was the right place to be. Sometimes Chudleigh suffers from seepage, but the rain had kept off the limestone for a few days and it was in perfect condition.

Nick and I started off on Great Western, a VS which weaves its way up the most southerly face. Its brilliant and Nick was considerate enough to let me link pitches 2 & 3 together so I got to tackle the testing overhang on P3. P1 is no push over though. A delicate traverse up to the belay which is capped off by a tricky mantle which Nick cruised through.

I was not quite so smooth on the overhang. Dithering over a micro which I eventually backed up by clipping the peg (should’ve done that in the first place). Its a great move though and once I got going it was fine.

Meanwhile Tom and Pete were working their way up the glassy Barn Owl Crack which I gather is not so enjoyable. However they made up for it with ascents of Salome and the inappropriately named Wogs, both of which were very good. Considering it was their first time on Limestone, they both seemed to take to it well. Limestone is very different from Granite and Chudleigh acts the additional dimention of ‘polish’ which can make even the easiest climb seem treacherous.

Dave on the exposed top pitch of Never on a Sunday

Dave and Chris started on an HS called Never on a Sunday. This takes a striking line up the face with the final pitch being very photogenic. By all accounts the exposure on this pitch is equally dramatic. And then of course Inkerman Groove, a must. Both Chris and Dave were raving by the end; quite understandably because it is an outstanding climb with one of the most memorable traverses you’ll find.

Top pitch of Never on a Sunday a tough HS

For me, climb 2 was The Slot. Nicks smile should have given away what the Slot would deliver. My smile was firmly absent whilst I tried to work out how to move up into ‘the slot’. Having got there things didnt get easier. The main crack is seriously hard work, but the higher you go the less strenuous it becomes. I was really pleased to get this one as it was a tough.

The best though was saved till last. Sarcophagus is a fantastic journey up a corner with truly three dimensional climbing. According to all that you read it is a nightmare of polish but this is only part of the story. Yes the opening moves are tense and Nick had to take care with pro and the moves over very polished foot placements. But once past this you get so absorbed in the climbing through grooves and overhangs that both of us agreed you become oblivious to any wear. I thought it was engrossing and in the end over too quickly. Even the top pitch (Nick ran the bottom two together which made a lot of sense) finishes off the climb nicely leaving lts of smiles.

A pint of local ale on the way back topped off a great day out although probably we would have been wiser to drink water not alcohol. But where’s the fun in that!

Opening moves are a bit polished on Sarcophagus

Dave on Never on a Sunday with blue skies!

Chris on the belay at the top of P1 NOAS

Climbing

What a difference a day makes…

April 12, 2013 dillwat Leave a comment

Bosigran

12th April 2013

Flat Top – HS 4b – Lead
Crazy Man Michael – VS 4c – Second
Little Brown Jug (Variation Start P1) – HVS/VS 5a? – Lead
Thin Wall Special(P2) – E1 5b/5a – Lead
Trapeze – HVS 5a – Second

I challenge you to read the title and not hum the tune in your head (or I’m a bit abi normal) I’m sat here looking out the window at drizzle, whereas yesterday at Bosi we were treated to Sunshine and a glorious day.

It was a strange day actually for me. Five climbs in my logbook, but in reality it was three. This was on account of a mix and match approach to our routes. Having walked away from Sinistra which looked more like a waterfall, we started on Flat Top, a really nice HS with some good moves getting past the overhang to the corner.

As it happened overhangs played quite a part on this day. Joe’s lead on pitch two was Crazy Man Michael which starts with a … you’ve guessed it… a overhang. A lot tougher than Flat Top though. You never feel in balance and its strenuous. Having cleared this though the climbing continues up the exposed arete at a much more amenable level. It is well worth doing.

Bosigran_Apr13 003 — Joe about to set off on the tough opening moves of Crazy Man Michael

Meanwhile the rest of the crew (Tom, Dave, Pete, Chris and Nick who made the long journey down from the wilds of Dartmoor) were on their own routes. Chris and Nick on the by all accounts very good Venusberg and the others on the classic Andrew. A climb I have fond memories of as it was my first multi pitch route with Bart. The step out from the ledge onto the slab is always tense because you never quite feel settled. A good lead from Dave on this one. Venusberg is definitely on my list for next time out.

Bosigran_Apr13 008 — Pete moving onto the delicate traverse on P2 Andrew

Having taken a closer look at Visions of Johanna, discretion finally got the better part of valour and I opted for a try on Little Brown Jug’s variation start in order to get to P2 of Thin Wall Special. Originally we had planned this for a threesome, but it made sense for Nick and Chris to get on a route instead of hanging around so they went off to do the brilliant Paragon.

The overhang start (there it is again) seemed OK to me, but the next move is very tin if you continue on a direct line. A bridging move right opens up the good holds higher up and then the climbing is fun right up to the belay ledge of Doorway/Thin Wall Special. Joe kindly deferred this one to me as I had wanted to lead TWS and the top pitch looked wild.

It didnt disappoint. The corner of Doorway is good climbing in its own right and when you get to the roof it seems a bit improbable that it goes at 5a. A move up into the niche gives a chance for a breather and then its stepping out under yet another overhang and aiming for the gap. I found it really scary and although the holds are quite positive you need to shape yourself to get across to the finishing jugs. I just made it but hanging off the final jug dangling 150ft up is amazing.

Bosigran_Apr13 019 — Joe through the crux on Trapeze

Joe had to go one better by cutting loose with his feet, but his grin gave away how much he enjoyed himself, even if he looked thoroughly knackered.

Back at the bags with Nick and Chris still on Paragon and Dave leading Flat Top we decided on a last route so Joe had a go on the fierce but short Trapeze. Its all packed into two crux’s, but with the big No 4 Camelot on board Joe could protect the top offwidth crack. I like the route, but I imagine Pete doesnt having given it his best but on this occasion been defeated. I know the feeling well. Another day then.

As usual 7 hours passed like 7 minutes and we were late returning, but it was the culmination of another great adventure on the Cornish Coast and we have many more planned.

Joe about to set off on the tough opening moves of Crazy Man Michael

Pete moving onto the delicate traverse on P2 Andrew

Climbing

Wolves in sheeps clothing

March 28, 2013 dillwat Leave a comment

Pentire point
Redwall Cliffs

28th March 2013

Warrior Mouse – HVS/E1 5a – Lead
Cradle of Filth – HVS 5a – Second

OK. Leaving you climbing shoes behind three times is beyond a joke. I need a new system whereby I keep my shoes with my bag instead of in the shed where they so often seem to be when I need them?

Fortunately Tom came to my rescue, sharing his red chillis with me which did me fine for two difficult routes. Redwall Cliffs are to be found at the end of the path from Pentire Farm, so access is straight forward; just walk past the bench and head towards the sea. Watch out for the outlandishly large sheeps poo which Chris assured us came from the famous Pentire wolves……… Whatever it was, Tom shouldnt have stepped in it.

As with a lot of the Atlantic Coast routes, the rock is not as solid as Penwith granite. In fact around this cliff there is a lot of looseness. Tom detaching a grapefruit sized lump of rock from the cliff did not instill confidence. But Warrior Mouse is a great looking line leading up a steep groove and then out onto a steep face.

After my usual faffing moments where I started…stopped..started…etc I got stuck into the bottom chimney/groove. It is very steep which makes it tough to place gear, but once I had placed a key nut my confidence leapt and and the rest of the climb came together nicely. There is an atmospheric traverse followed by some excellent face climbing where the rock deteriorated with altitude.

Pentire_Mar13 003 — Gearing up on Cradle of Filth

Creating belays is troublesome as there are no anchors directly behind the crag. On WM you can anchor to a side bluff, but for Chris he ended up using a concrete water trough some 55 metres back connected by Tom’s 10mm rope (just a little stretch in the mechanism).

Chris chose another HVS further across on the main cliff. Cradle of Filth is aptly named due to a muddy step early on in the climb. But after this it is anything but dirty. The meat of the climb starts when you reach the headwall. This is also where the crux is. The move up from the ledge is precarious and technical. Once you work the sequence out it is OK but you have to rely on some less than positive holds initially.

There’s also another exciting finish to the climb with loose rock abounding. Having said all of this, Redwall Cliifs turned out to be a good venue. The views across to the Rumps and Pentire Point are startling and on this day the sea was calm and clear.

Pentire_Mar13 006 — View to Pentire Point

Climbing

Unfinished business

March 14, 2013 dillwat Leave a comment

Aire Point / John Wayne Memorial Crag

14th March 2013

Biggles Flies Undone – HVS 5a – Second
Hit The Deck, Here She Comes – HVS 5b – Lead
Stagecoach – VS 5c – Lead

The first day of proper spring is what it felt like. Actual warm sunshine and blue skies. Deceptive because coming in behing this day were gales and heavy rain. Still we made the most of the window with a trip to Sennen Cove.

Aire Point_Mar13 031 — Back towards Sennen

The views on this day were stunning. As Tom said, the granite seemed to cahnge colour all day depending on the height and intensity of the Sun. A couple of very spectacular venues.

Aire Point_Mar13 028 — View back towards Aire Point with the prominent lines of Airplane and BFU

After checking out John Wayne Memorial Crag we spotted the lines we wanted to do but they needed a little more drying so we started on Aire Point. Chris and Tom on Aireline, a tough VS taking on the definative chimney in the centre of the crag and Joe tackling Biggles Flies Undone, an HVS I had had my eye on for a while but which I deferred to Joe because I didnt want him to cry and humiliate himself in front of the rest of the crew.

Aire Point_Mar13 006 — Joe mid crux on Biggles Flies Undone

Turns out it was tougher than first appearances suggested. The real problems are short lived but require a bit of commitment. There is little for your fet at first and placing pro is strenuous. Joe made a good job of it before blasting up the top thank god flake. A top start to the day.

Aire Point_Mar13 008 — Making our way back to JWMC

We returned to JWMC and set about the two HVS 5b’s. Chris on Regans Regression and me on Hit The Deck, Here She Comes (variation) We both suffered the same ignominious defeat. For me, it was my stamina that let me down. I’ve got to get that sorted. Howver HTDHSC is a very good climb and I want another go at it to clean it. Chris and I intend to return soon to complete our respective ‘projects’.

Aire Point_Mar13 017 — Tom on the deceptively difficult Sheriff VS 4c

As a finale Chris and Tom went for Sheriff, an outwardly innocuous VS but one which proves decidedly move difficult with technical moves on the upper slab.

Aire Point_Mar13 025 — The balancy final moves of Sheriff

Suprisingly Joe wanted a go at the 5c route Stagecoach (insert irony here). Clearly he hadnt fallen off anything yet and wanted the opportunity. Stagecoach provided it. It is really a one sequence wonder with excellent pro.

Aire Point_Mar13 015 — Joe tops out the 5c section of Stagecoach having given blood to the cause

Get a couple of nuts in and go for it (Pete that’s your red Metollius we scratched up).

Aire Point_Mar13 032 — Pete. Do you recognise this!……

After going up and down a couple of times I eventualy went for it and suprisingly made it. The barn door potential is the problem as Joe found out. However in the end we both did it and capped off a grand day out.

A day which left everyone knackered but feeling good. A word of warning though. The walk out from Aire Point is a beast after a long day and with a heavy pack. Be prepared.

Tom keeping an eye on Chris on Airline the VS 4c chimney

Joe tops out the 5c section of Stagecoach having given blood to the cause

Tom on the deceptively difficult Sheriff VS 4c

View back towards Aire Point with the prominent lines of Airplane and BFU

Climbing

It’s raining frogs and fruitbats

March 8, 2013 dillwat Leave a comment

8th March 2013

Trewellard – Goldsworthy Buttress

Return of the Lemming – VS 4c – Lead
Bright Morning – V Diff – Lead (P2)
Sea Fever – Diff/Severe 4b – Second

Trewellard was looking a little different from the last time Dave and I climbed here. On that day the wind was about 40mph and it was pretty grey. This time, sunshine and good conditions.

Trewellard_Mar13 037 — View towards Bible Wall

That said, it is not the most attractive of venues unless you like industrial backdrops of broken ground, churned earth and arsenic. Yes arsenic, something worth keeping in mind – if it’s green dont touch it, lick it or dip your lunch in it cos it’ll probably kill you!

Trewellard_Mar13 001 — Belay Platform – Wide Ledge

A number of places show the vivid green streaks seeping out of the cliffs, but Goldsworthy isnt one of them. On this day it was relatively dry and we stuck to the buttress climbs and not the zawn which did look damp. One for another day as there are some cracking looking climbs there.

Trewellard_Mar13 010 — Pete styling on ROTL

ROTL looks a bit like a cliff which is rotting in front of your eyes. Similar to Coastguard Cliffs actually. The first pitch looks bold and pro (at least good pro) is difficult to find. I’m not sure I would have wanted to fall on half the gear I placed and there is a run out section in the middle. But, it is laced with small foot placements and little sharp edged holds. They look brittle but I found then solid and none snapped on me.

Trewellard_Mar13 015 — Chris leading P1 ROTL

All the above taken into account, the first pitch is great. Balancy, technical and just good fun. The other two match up well. Pitch two’s overhang is committing but well protected and Pitch 3 has a hard start and a camera friendly finish.

Trewellard_Mar13 044 — Top Pitch of ROTL

It was getting late when we all finished, but we had enough time to get another climb in. Chris and Tom went for Bright Morning, a climb Dave had led earlier. A difficult V Diff is the best way to describe it. Probably more towards Severe actually. Dave took Joe and myself for a wander onto the seaward face of the buttress where booming surf greeted us and a very wet chimney on Double Take.

Trewellard_Mar13 039 — Booming Surf below the belay on Sea Fever/Double Take

Dave wisely left this alone but contrived a new line between the Diff of Sea Fever and Double Take which was probably at around Severe 4b. A tricky mantel into a sparsely protected groove made for a good pitch. Well done to Dave for climbing this blind effectively. Maybe its worth listing as a new route.

I finished on the second pitch of Bright Morning, an excellent pitch in its own right. Meanwhile Joe went off soloing the arete, probably looking for something hard to get stuck into.

Trewellard_Mar13 016 — P2 of Bright Morning

We were greeted by persistent rain as we packed up (perfect timing) which made the journey back interesting with strange animals flying past the van and the road littered with suicidal frogs.