Tag Archives: E1

Little guns….. “Meet the Beak”

March 20, 2015 dillwat Leave a comment

21st March 2015

Porth Loe Buttress

The Beak – E1 5b – Lead (dnf)
Times Remembered – HS 4b – Lead

This was well and truly the first proper day of spring. Equinox, Eclipse, New Moon. And mega sunshine.

The conditions transpired to make Porth Loe Buttress appear to be the best venue in Cornwall. There is a stunning backdrop across towards Carn Guthenbras, the sea was an amazing blue and the granite immaculate. Add good friends and it was just perfect.

We’d never been here before and yet we’ve walked past it loads. Probably because of the more major attractions of Fox Prom and Carn Bara. The descent is down a narrow steep grassy gully with a cool gearing up ledge. The final section is climbable, but more relaxed on a short abb. The platform at the bottom provides a spectacular location with a few really good clims.

Dave and Chris set off on Eileen and multi pitch severe on the left looking towards the cliff. A bit damp, it nevertheless looked very good and challenging. High in the grade I think.

Tom, Joe and I set up for The Beak which I was lucky (unlucky maybe) enough to get to lead both pitches. The first is some tricky manouvering into a great crack. Layback and commit and you’re OK. The top pitch is mental thuggery. A hard groove leads to a massive overhang Both I and Joe looked at the actul beak, but this seemed really unlikely at 5b, and the description of ‘well protected’ in the guide is a loose one. Yes there is gear in the bottom face of the o/h but once up into the beak there is nothing and you’d take a pretty good lob.

I found a flake just left of the beak which seemed more positive and protectable. Good job really because after 15 determined attempts I fell off. Thankfully Tom caught me but it was still freaky and lead to the loss of much skin. I just couldnt do it… not quite strong enough, but very close. I was within a whisker of making it.

Tom suffered from the same problem as me, but Mr Muscles Joe cranked through it remarking that he’d wished he’d ‘warmed up a bit’.

Times Remembered is great. The top giant flakes are hard to unlock and pro is sparce, but the climbing is engrossing. More importantly the view across to the couple of idiots on the Eastern Buttress provided grand entertainment. There was a reason the big rock at the base of the climb was wet… it’s called the sea and Chris very nearly became intimate with it on this day. We were having bets on how long they’d last, but to be fare it did look very exciting. Adds a new spice to the climb when there is the chance you could be doing it underwater.

So what a day. One of those that will stick for a while and one that just makes you want more and more.

To good friends……

Climbing

Failure Friday

February 19, 2015 dillwat Leave a comment

19th Feb 2015

Carn Boel (Upper)

The Drum – HVS 5b – Lead (dnf) then TR
Grindeer – E2 5B – TR
Drifters – E1 5c – Retrieve gear (and some sneaky practicing)

We made this day a real cack handed ordeal. One we should have driven to Lands End and not walked all the way from Porthgwarra and two, we should have recognised a series of sandbags when we arrived!

It was though a terrific day, with lots of hard climbing and some really challenging routes. I started the day trying to lead The Drum. An excellent HVS running up a crack line on the left of the main face. From the ground it looks innocuous and well protected. It’s neither.

I havnt felt so pumped for ages. A proper test of my ability to keep hanging on. Placing gear was strenuous, climbing was strenuous, staying still was strenuous (you get the idea). I felt like Popeye by time I eventually succumbed and slumped into my gear. It was all a matter of mental state.

By time I reached the crux I was pumped and couldnt find any gear. I knew in my mind that once I committed there was no going back and it looked poor for gear. This was actually an accurate forecast as it was. For HVS it is remarkably bold. I think it would be E1 in most peoples books. Definitely 5b though.

So all pumped up I tried again on the top rope and this time went straight through. Of course without having to place gear. One I will try again maybe later in the season.

Meanwhile Joe was having his own epic on Drifters. Another one where gear is hard to come by and the climbing suprisingly dificult. It did for Joe on this occasion (unusually), but I expect he will be back shortly to tame it.

We all (Tom, Dave, Joe and I) had a go on the E2, which actually proved to be OK. Tough again with some amazing moves into the vertical crack, but manageable.

This spot is great for a winters days climbing. Above the sea, sheltered with great views. We were lucky to get this on this day as the weather came in with a vengance on the walk back.

Shame Dave and Tom chose to take the long walk to the car. Pay attention!!!!

Climbing

Please sir, can I have some more…

August 3, 2014 dillwat Leave a comment

3rd August 2014

Pedn Kei / Carn Gloose / Zawn Duel

Fagin – HVS 5a – Lead
Astral Stroll – E1 5b – Alt Lead

The nerves started a couple of days earlier when Nick text me about climbing on the Sunday. For some reason I already knew that he was thinking of Astral Stroll. This is one of those climbs with a reputation for wildness and commitment. One that invokes excitement and intrepidation.

It boils down to the fact that the whole climb requires both buddies to commit into some startling climbing territory with no opportunity for escape (accept to climb out). We had heard that AS can be a bit greasey in the mornings so this gave us the chance to go and check out Pedn Kei first.

As it turned out this gave rise to the most sketchy climbing of the day and this was just on the approach. This amounts to a slide (in my case) down grassy embankments until you reach a rock platform above the climbing area. I cant say I enjoyed it. I think next time a grab line might be in order. Something to remember for the future.

Abbing in, Pedn Kei reveals how much good climbing is available. We only did Fagin, a good and tricky HVS following the seaward corner. It looks like it will be damp and unpleasant but in fact its was dry and offered really good moves and pro. You start in the corner and move out onto the face at around 2/3 height with a cruxy finish. I can thoroughly recommend it.

I wouldnt say the access description in the Climbers Club book is easy to follow but it did get us to the correct start for Astral Stroll. You end up in a recess on the point. A stunning place to start watching waves smash into the point and wash through the gaps below. Nick set off heading up diagonally which put him on the higher version of P1. Unknown to us this was a good choice as a rockfall now means that the lower version skips past the P1 belay point so you no longer need to down climb on the start of P2. I think this is probably the better option for the full AS experience.

OK spoiler alert. If you dont want to know about the climb dont read on……..

Pitch 1 is an exposed traverse across a slab to a corner and belay point. As you move around the initial corner you get a view into what is coming and it is astonishing. Its hard to believe a route at E1 can go through this kind of territory.

Pitch 2 has a difficult move down followed by a bold traverse and a final grunty move up under the roof. Its great but the belayer loses sight of you straight away and its hard to fully protect your second. That said a back rope helps take some of the potential swing out.

Pitch 3 is the best of all the pitches. Hard moves under the roof lead to a series of rock overs/pulls into niches and onto aretes. All whilst dangling above a drop into the ocean and with the roaring sea all around. One of the truly great pitches on any route I’ve done.

Pitch 4 starts with a strenuous pull over an overhang and onto a slab. Steep crimpy moves lead to the grassy alcove above and a feeling of having just been a part of something really special. It’s not worth doing another climb after this. You might as well head off to the pub and pat yourself on the back – which is exactly what we did.

What a day and many thanks have to go to Nick for sharing the experience and being the ‘competant partner’ the book says you need. And they’re right!

Climbing

The Aviators brought Low

July 15, 2014 dillwat Leave a comment

15th July 2014

Low Man (Haytor)

Aviation – E1 5b – Lead
Raven Wing – VS 4c – Second
Outward Bound _ HVS 4c – Lead

There was only one reason for Dave and my venture to the Devon Moors and that was to have a crack at Aviation, an iconic E1 and one which I’ve had on my wish list for a while.

The view of Raven Wing and Outward Bound behind Dave

But it was to be Outward Bound which provided the early entertainment, with the aspiring avaitors getting plenty of air time. You know Outward Bound is going to be powerful and pumpy, but as it did the first time I tried it, it caught me out. Maybe we should have warmed up on something less intimidating, but it provided plenty of fun. I kept getting stuck on the transition onto the main face and Dave decided the prow was a good rest point to sit on while he contemplated the next moves.

It’s easy to think OB is all about the powerful moves, but the upper wall is delicate and needs thoughful work on protection. All together its a good varied route and well worth doing (after warming up!).

Daves lead on Ravens Wing was equally adventurous. The move onto the arete is spicy and is followed by some lean climbing with sparse protection. One for a cool head and Dave did brilliantly to keep it all together and climb it with style. Definitely at the top of the grade for VS imo. Not technically hard but needs thought.

There were plenty of people around on Haytor, but we were left in splendid isolation for the most part. The flowers below Raven Gulley were obviously a memorial to a faller although it was hard to know who. The toy car left on the rock indicated it probably related to a child and made the whole scene very poignient and sad.

By this time Dave and I were pooped, but it was hard to ignore the amazing line of Aviation. So it was grab the ropes and ‘lets do it!’. My first attempt resulted in me being stopped in my tracks by the first move. After backing off and contemplating how to get through I decided to just push through, utilising a bit of powerful laybacking to negotiate the bulge. After this it was sustained and varied. Delicate traverse followed by a wide groove/crack where pro was spaced. Fantastic route and one to be firmly filed away in the ‘adventure’ drawer.

With the sun starting to go down,Dave and I left for the long drive back and me promising not to go to sleep….

Climbing

Yoga is good for you

July 14, 2014 dillwat Leave a comment

14th July 2014

Doyden Point

Caprice – VS 4c – Second
Lotus – E1 5b – Lead

Ever since I seconded Lotus with Nick 4 yrs ago I have wanted to return. One to lead the route and second to reclimb what is one of the most memeorable climbing experiences I’ve had.

Dave had a hankering to get on Caprice as well so we rocked up on the dull grey day to contemplate the awful abseil in. Its a choice between descending in amoungst loose rock or dropping over an edge into nothingness. Given that we didnt have the ab rope this meant using my old 10mm dynamic so it was nice and bouncey.

Doyden is both spectacular and scary/intimidating. Fortunately the surf was small, but there was a good wind going and the drizzle as we descended didnt bode well. However as the day progressed so did the weather; into a bright sunny day.

Dave thoroughly enjoyed Caprice, a tricky VS which traverses the lower face on mainly good rock. It has its moments though and can be intimidating in its middle section which needs a steady head. A good spike runner settles things for a while but the scoop in the centre of the face only provides mediocre pro.

Lotus is probably the single best E1 I’ve led along with Rock Idol. It can be broken down into two sections. The initial crack which is pumpy and tough going. Move fast or burn out. Followed by a traverse across really expose ‘out there’ territory. Both are amazing but the move onto the sloping shelf are particularly memorable. Just amazing.

With the tide pushing and the weather closing in Dave and I checked out Kellan Head which is well worth a visit, especially with this being such a dry year. One for our weekday evenings.

Climbing

Falling on hard times

July 5, 2014 dillwat Leave a comment

5th July 2014

Rosemergy Towers

NC Madness – VS 4c – Lead
Go Shorty – E2 5c – Second (dnf)
Hard Times – E1 5c – Lead (dogged)
Boulder Problem – HVS 5b – Second

Where do you go when the BMC meet is on and most venues will have climbers galore. Rosemergy seemed a good bet although we were joined by another couple for a change.

Climbing

Vegetables are good for you. Sometimes…

May 2, 2014 dillwat Leave a comment

2nd May 2014

Pen Olver – The Lizeard

Lying Eyes – Severe 4a – Lead
The Womb Tomb – Severe 4a – Second
The Giant Carrot – E1 5b – Lead
Sesame Street – V Diff (Ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha………!! ) – Second

Before we even got to Pen Olver I knew I would end up preoccupied with The Giant Carrot. I’d checked it out on our previous visit but didnt have the nerve to do it. This time I thought I’d better give it closer attention.

Pen Olver was looking its best. Calm seas. light winds and a cool temperature. Typical spring day really. Chris and I paired up, with Tom, Dave and Pete in the triumvate. I suspect Pete felt that Dave and Tom might give him an easier time of it so he could rest his damaged leg. I think maybe he was wrong here as Dave set off on the brilliant but tricky ‘The Peoples Queen’. Pete who has been climbing superbly recently had time to squeeze in an ascent of Lying Eyes, my first lead of the day as well. No rest for the …..

Lying Eyes is short but OK. A good warm up route and it gets you to the top of the pinnacle which is always a treat. Looking across at Dave fighting his way up TPQ ,I think Chris and I had the easier option but Dave despatched yet another VS to add to his growing list.

Chris then subjected himself to a bit of ‘trollism’ as he negotiated the fantastic ‘ The Womb Tomb’. Anyone who goes to Pen Olver should do this climb. It is excellent. The final exposed traverse just caps off what is a truly different experience form most climbs. And the famous cave painting is still there. Or is it a fake??

So onto my main event. Or would it be? From below I thought I had this one sussed.But once on it, it becomes a different beast. Not sure I agree that there are small wires to be had on the traverse. I placed two in what appeared to be good slots, only for one of them to shatter when Chris removed it. A crucial cam in the face settled my nerves and I was away. It was scary, but scary good. A few difficult moves later I was sucking in air on the arete and feeling decidedly sick. Way too much adrenaline. But what a buzz. I was soooo pleased to get this one, especially after making a couple of false starts.

The adrenaline wasnt finished for the day though. Chris was scratting around for a lead wanting something around HS but not finding anything. So he settled for a really good looking line called Sesame Street. Given V Diff in the book. V Diff My Arse!! I always trot out the saying that if it looks hard from the ground, it is hard.

Chris found this out, battling up the route and getting a real shock at its difficulty. Looks like he got his VS, because I rekon this was the more appropriate grade. It made for a fitting end to what was a great day out. Tom spent a lot of the afternoon racking up leads on the Main Face with Pete. Looks like Pete might get his 60 after all.

Climbing

E one’abies

April 18, 2014 dillwat Leave a comment

18th April 2014

Trewellard – Main Face

Sundog – E1 5b – Second (dogged)
Shambhalla – E1 5b – Lead

It has been a while since Joe and I have climbed together, so it was really good to get back to old ways again. I had forgot Joe’s habit of looking at the hardest route on a crag and then going for it. But this time it paid dividends.

I’ve been on a few of the faces at Trewellard but Joe’s abseil dropped us straight onto the main face and a couple of really top routes. The first, led by Joe was Sundog.

Even from below the crux looked tough, going through a slightly overhanging bulge of rock with little pro and small finger holds. It was a top effort by Joe who pulled through the section after getting in some high gear. Unfortunately I wasnt so fortunate. The small crimps beat me and with only inches to go I peeled off. Its a shame because the rest of the climb was tricky but manageable. Clearly Joe’s efforts on the training walls we have scattered at our various houses has paid off and I think I might be following him up some even harder routes this year.

Meanwhile Bart and Tom were gradually working thier way through the routes on the West Face which was basking in warm sunshine. I always found these to be bold for their grade, but quality climbing. Both Tom and Bart were leading building up their confidence no doubt for Sardinia.

Speaking of which, this was the first occasion the full island crew were together as Dave and Chris were have an exciting time on Return of the Lemming a bold VS on Goldsworthy Buttress. So this is what we can look forward to??

My lead was on Shambhalla, an HVS in the book but an E1 on UKC. I think it was probably somewhere in the middle. A hard HVS or an easy E1. Although I didnt find the crux and mid section easy, struggling again to get my head into gear. I did it though and that is great and a real confidence booster. Definitely not as hard as Joe’s E1.

Bart, Tom and I succumbed to ‘lightweightedness’ a left a bit earlier as the temperature dropped quickly. The sun was still shining on the other three as they grabbed a final Severe on the Main Face. I’m looking forward to climbing with Joe a bit more this year. It pushes my grades and adds a bit of excitment and fun to events.!!!

Climbing

Normal service is resumed…

November 22, 2013 dillwat Leave a comment

22nd November 2013

Coastguard Cliff – The Lizard

Silent Movie – VS 4c – Lead
Quo Vadis – E1 5a -Lead
Sirius – HS 4b – Second

After what has seemed to be forever the bright weather came back. Friday turned out to be clear skies and little wind. The south facing Coastguard Cliff provided the perfect warm, sunny venue for Dave, Tom and myself.

Moody Coastguard Cliff's — Moody Coastguard Cliff’s

Dave and I had had a couple of outings to Hawks Tor in the rain and fog, but on each occasion the weather limited our efforts. This time we could go for it with dry positive rock. I’d done Silent Movie with Chris and remembered how good it was. A committing climb where you need to hunt out pro. But the holds are excellent and the climbing thrilling and exposed.

Having warmed up it was straight onto Quo Vadis. I figured with the bunch of crocks I was with I’d better pick a jug hauling route rather than a finger stretcher. QV provided this. It has two crux’s. The first is a thuggy haul over an overhang ontothe face. The second is a delicate rising crack which can be tackled in a number of ways.

Tom showing he's got balls - Quo Vadis — Tom showing he’s got balls – Quo Vadis

Tom and I laid back and Dave went out onto the face to the crimpier holds. Both ways are great and the climb overall is worth doing. Typical of the venue. Strenuous start followed by face climbing. It also provided one of our best photos of Tom in the crack. Really exciting and reflects everything about the day.

Dave wanted to get back into leading and took on both pitches of Sirius. This is also a really cool climb. Exposed with two contrasting pitches. A juggy but exposed traverse, followed by a more technical slab. It was a good lead as the climb is tricky throughout.

It was a fitting end to a brilliant return to climbing ways. Cornwall as usual delivered on the ‘spectacular beauty’ front. The booming surf added to the atmosphere and provided lots of distraction when you heard a set thunder in sounding like it was going to engulf you. We are so lucky!

Tom about to traverse into the crack Quo Vadis

Tom after the opening strenuous moves on Silent Movie

Climbing

Damned Lamornians!

September 5, 2013 dillwat Leave a comment

5th September 2013

Tater Du

Martell Slab – VS 4c/E1 5a – Alt Lead
Pericles – HVS 5a – Lead

It was nice to be back climbing with Joe again after what has been a fairly long break. Martell Slab provided the stunning entertainment for the day.

Martell Slab is one of those climbs you always promise yourself, but never get around to doing. Probably because Tater Du is not the easiest crag in the world to get access to. It’s also not helped by the exorbitant charges levied at Lamorna Car Park. £7.00!!! £7.00 for gods sake….. The alternative is a longer walk in from Boskenna Cross. Next time this is what I will be doing cos its the last penny I put in their grubby, middle class, money grabbing hands.

Rant over and back to the important stuff. Martell Slab is great technical climbing with some tricky moves and so so gear on the first pitch. Finding the start isnt easy, but trend right of the slab and take the groove before moving out onto the slab proper. The move onto the slab is memorable and the remainder of P1 provides some nice technical climbing.

Joe was straight onto the E1 direct finish for P2. It keeps going straight up, through the groove. Well protected but strenuous it is pretty steep but classy climbing. The huge nest you pass full of bones and bits of dead things is a little un nerving though. Joe made easy work of this to cap off what was a really good climb.

WP_000142 — E1 top pitch of Martell Slab

Meanwhile Dave and Tom were on their way up Crows Nest Ordinary, a route Joe and I did many years back. The top pitch of this one is always a test.

WP_000147 — Nico coming onto the steep finishing face of Crows Nest Ordinary

Lichen covered and very steep it is quite daunting as Tom found out. It’s also very photogenic, with Joe and myself providing the audience for Toms epic.

I had always wanted to do Pericles, a good looking route on Knights Pillar. It turned out to be harder than it looks, with fiddly gear and small crimpy holds. By time I finished my arms were screaming. I could tell I hadnt been out for a while.

I always enjoy going to Tater Du. It is a beautiful location and great place to climb with your mates. Makes you realise why we all love climbing in Cornwall so much.

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The Magik Rock

Tag Archives: E1

Little guns….. “Meet the Beak”

Failure Friday

Please sir, can I have some more…

The Aviators brought Low

Yoga is good for you

Falling on hard times

Vegetables are good for you. Sometimes…

E one’abies

Normal service is resumed…

Damned Lamornians!

Why it never rains on a Friday!